VINOUS

There are a handful of wines in Italy that make us nervous every year before the first tasting because the expectations are huge. Cerretalto is undoubtedly one of them. What's more, as in this case from an exceptional year like 2019, it didn't disappoint our expectations - how could it have been otherwise?

Tenuta Tignanello is situated in the heart of Chianti Classico, on the rolling hills between the valleys of the rivers Greve and Pesa, and covers 319 hectares of land, of which around 130 are planted with vines. The estate's vineyards include two jewels: Tignanello and Solaia, which lie on the same hill, on marl soils of marine origin from the Pliocene period, rich in limestone and slate, and which benefit from warm days and cool nights during the growing season. These vineyards produce two wines which, many years ago, were set to become the starting point for the renaissance of Italian wine. Nothing has changed in that regard to this day.

Barolo Prapò comes from Serralunga d'Alba and is, as expected, the most powerful and structured of the various single-vineyard wines from this ambitious estate. At the same time, it is also the most closed at the beginning and, with its introverted nature, is made for a long ageing period. This site is one of the last where the grapes ripen, giving them plenty of time to develop slowly and carefully each year.

There are wines that have changed the history of their country. Not by chance, not because of a passing trend – but through a single, well-founded act of provocation. In 1971, Piero Antinori commissioned one of the most prominent Italian graphic designers of his time to design the label for his new wine: Silvio Coppola, renowned for book covers and designer furniture, for his austerity and minimalism. The label was minimalist – but the wine behind it was a revolution. No Trebbiano, no Malvasia. No white grapes in the red wine, as the Chianti regulations had dictated since Ricasoli's time. Instead: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Barrique instead of large casks. A wine that consequently fell outside the DOC classification – and was released onto the market as a simple Vino da Tavola. Piero Antinori signed the label with his father Niccolò's name: a gesture of gratitude for the trust that had allowed him the boldness to do it in the first place.

Madonna del Piano is a top wine from a top vintage, what more could you want? We are deeply impressed by its energetic tension and complexity, plus a harmony only imagined in the wildest dreams. Focused and racy bouquet of dark cherries, herbs, smoke and mineral hints. Very animating in the drink, the acidity plays around the primary fruit, then the polished tannins set in and glide this beautiful red into its almost endless finish. An extremely characterful and polished wine that is already one of the most beautiful of its appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

In the early 1980s, André Tchelistcheff, the legendary Russian-American Oenologist, stood on a hill near Bolgheri and saw what others overlooked: blue clay. Argille blu – pressed to the surface millions of years ago by tectonic faults, so compact that the Tuscans call it masso, rock. Tchelistcheff recognised the potential for something unheard of in this soil: a Merlot that could rival Pétrus. In the middle of Italy, in the land of Sangiovese. People thought he was crazy. History proved him right. Today, Masseto has long been more than just a wine – it is a monument. Twelve perfect 100-point ratings since its debut in 1986, a name that is mentioned in the same breath as the greatest wines in the world. And a vineyard that is reluctant to reveal its secrets: seven hectares, divided into three parcels with completely different characters. Masseto Alto delivers structure and ripe fruit, Masseto Centrale – with the highest clay content, the "Grand Cru" of the vineyard – gives opulence and monumental tannins, while Masseto Junior with its younger vines contributes freshness and vibrancy. The mosaic only comes together to form the whole.

So much verve and purity, integration and harmony can be found in the Masseto 2021. Black raspberry, mulberry, a hint of toasted brioche. A beautiful natural sweetness, plus a delicacy and subtlety that is simply beautiful and tantalising. Black biros ink and more and more cedar wood with gentle aeration. Creamy. Essences of petals - with a little more lilac, lily and hyacinth than rose. Then graphite again. A wonderful texture on the finish, as soft and caressing as a million layers (milles feuilles plus!) of silk, but actually with a deeper and richer texture - so more cashmere perhaps than silk. Lively, flowing, dynamic and incredibly juicy. Radiant in its incredible dynamism and energy. Very special and above all endless on the finish. Wow! SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that have changed the history of their country. Not by chance, not because of a passing fad – but through a single, well-founded act of provocation. In 1971, Piero Antinori commissioned one of the most prominent Italian graphic designers of his time to design the label for his new wine: Silvio Coppola, known for book covers and designer furniture, for his austerity and minimalist style. The label was minimalist – but the wine behind it was a revolution. No Trebbiano, no Malvasia. No white grapes in the red wine, as the Chianti regulations had stipulated since Ricasoli's time. Instead: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Barriques instead of large casks. A wine that consequently fell outside the DOC classification – and was launched on the market as a simple "Vino da Tavola". Piero Antinori signed the label with his father Niccolò's name: a gesture of gratitude for the trust that had allowed him to exercise such boldness in the first place.

The 50th harvest year of Sassicaia. It snowed in Bolgheri in February 2018. The last time this happened was in 1985 – the year that is considered the greatest Sassicaia in history. The Siberian "Burian" winter storm brought temperatures below zero for days, killed the pests on the vines and replenished the soil water reserves. A promising start. What followed was a cool, slow wine year: moderate spring, temperate summer, refreshing nights well into September. Tenuta San Guido began the harvest seven to eight days later than usual – and selected more rigorously than in most years: The vineyards in the lowlands were not included. The higher vineyards, Castiglioncello and Quercione, characterised the character.

"A great wine is a perfect fusion of science and poetry, of the measurable and the unpredictable." Luigi Moio's own words sum up what defines this wine – the very cru that bears the name of the estate itself. Two hectares of Aglianico, planted in 2001 – the year the estate was founded – on the north-western slope of the Tenuta, on soil consisting of swellable clay rich in limestone: a subsoil that lends the wine structure and longevity. Simple horizontal counter-trellis training with spur pruning, 5,000 vines per hectare, yielding barely more than one kilogram per vine. The grapes are hand-harvested in October, in small 15-kilo crates, when they have reached full phenolic ripeness. In the cellar, careful selection takes place before and after destemming, followed by 20 to 25 days' fermentation at 28 to 30°C, then 18 to 24 months in new barriques, followed by further ageing in bottle.

Barolo Lazzarito 2019, which obtains its fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, is built like a pyramid. It stands on a thick base of robust fruit and power and rises in intensity thanks to its wonderfully elevated bouquet. It shows direct and solid lines with blackberries, plums, spices, tar, liquorice, candied orange peel and truffle-infused earth. A second wave of flavours offers dark minerals, iron ore and rust. Baroli from Serralunga d'Alba are often in a category of their own thanks to their richness and sheer abundance of fruit. With additional aeration, the Lazzarito, certified organic for the first time in this vintage, delivers mint and fine balsamic herbs and will fully inspire with further maturation in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

Masseto 2020 combines all the special features of the vintage. Its colour and aromas show optimal concentration both visually and olfactorily and are characterised by a constant liveliness in the glass that does not diminish over time. On the palate, the power of this wine is expressed with a beautiful length and balsamic notes. Its solid tannin structure reveals the ageing potential typical of Masseto. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define a region. Saffredi is one of them. When Elisabetta Geppetti, in 1987 – in her mid-twenties and driven by a vision to bring the sleepy Maremma to world fame – created this wine together with the legendary Giacomo Tachis, nobody could have imagined that a Super Tuscan was being born here, one that would rival Sassicaia and Tignanello. The name is a loving tribute to Fredi, Elisabetta's father-in-law Alfredo Gentili, who sparked her passion for wine and, in the 1980s, planted the five-hectare vineyard from which the grapes for Saffredi are still harvested today. The single-vineyard Saffredi near Pereta lies at an altitude of 250 metres, facing south-west for the old vines and south-east for the newer plantings. The soil is the result of millions of years of geological processes: of sandstone origin, rich in calcareous marl and iron minerals, low in organic matter, with clay layers only appearing at a depth of 30 centimetres. On clear days, the view from here sweeps across the hills to the Mediterranean, 25 kilometres away – a proximity to the coast that lends the wine its distinctive freshness and vibrancy.

"Sassicaia really was our house wine back then," says Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of the president of San Guido, Marquis Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. "It was more of a wine experiment that was only tested within the family and among friends, until we went on the market for the first time with the 1968 vintage. Today, this wine is all about elegance and balance. We like this style, which is not so much about the body. Sassicaia is a good representative of what we want to convey as a style."

"Everything was slow, calm and beautiful." This is how cellar master Carlo Paoli described 2013. After an April frost that regulated the natural grape yield, a summer without extremes followed – no heat spike, no stressful events, just a gradual, even ripening that gave the Cabernet Sauvignon on the gravel marl soils of Tenuta San Guido exactly what it needed: Time. Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, granddaughter of the founder, called the result a record year for Sassicaia. The harvest began at the beginning of September with the Cabernet Franc, which was the first to reach phenological ripeness, and ended at the end of September in the high vineyards of Castiglioncello.

There are vintages that are underestimated on release and only assert their true status over the years. The 2009 Sassicaia is one of them. When it came onto the market, critics debated 2008 and 2010, but anyone who listened carefully realised that the 2009 climate year in Bolgheri was simply perfect. A long, cold winter secured the water reserves. The spring began cautiously, the summer gifted the vineyards with warmth and pronounced day-night temperature contrasts – conditions that lead Cabernet Sauvignon to extraordinary phenolic ripeness on the gravel soils of Bolgheri. The harvest began at the beginning of September and was flawless.

Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta is said to have once said that Sassicaia is always great in years with an eight at the end: 1958, 1968, 1978, 1988, 1998 and 2008. The sentence sounds like a legend – but it holds water. 2008 was a year of transition: spring began cool, the vegetation was delayed by ten days, the summer gradually warmed up and led to a concentrated, structurally rich harvest. It was also the first year in which the new oenological team worked together with the legendary Giacomo Tachis – a baton that was passed in slow motion.

When the world-famous Oenologist Carlo Ferrini makes his own wine, you can't help but be excited. Here, he has succeeded in creating an interpretation of Sangiovese that brings all his experience from decades of working with this grape variety to the fore as if through a burning glass. The moderate use of wood through ageing in 700-litre tonneaux expresses the clarity and personality of the grape and the unique terroir (there are just 1.5 hectares of the best Brunello sites) in an archetypal way.

Gambero Rosso named the Giodo Brunello 2020 "The best red wine in Italy in 2026", and the reasoning reads like a silent tribute: "The sum of his experience with Sangiovese, his first love." His daughter Bianca Ferrini added what is behind the wine: "It is the first vintage in the new cellar, the first chapter together with my father."

"Transparent ruby red with a crimson rim. Spicy notes of cloves, allspice, mace and pepper mingle with cherries, laurel and raspberry jelly, currant leaves and floral top notes of orange blossom complete the delight. On the palate, Crichët Pajé presents itself with great calm in a steady flow. Nothing is cheeky or exuberant here, but shines with distinguished elegance - an equilibrium in perfect balance. The aromatically exuberant nose is disciplined on the palate by the long, calm flow of the focussed, cool acidity, on whose shores fully ripe and fine-grained tannins entwine. Silky with an almost aristocratic nobility, its enormous complexity is revealed in the second sip, when the flavours begin to unfold in the epic finish like a massive Win-Zip file. A wine for today, for tomorrow and for many, many years to come. Undisputed world class." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

When an estate like San Filippo produces its Riserva in a vintage like 2019, the result is something for which wine language is barely sufficient. 2019 shone in Montalcino. No critic who tasted it spent long searching for words. For Le Lucére, this meant: an east-facing vineyard that utilises the late morning sun to allow Sangiovese Grosso to ripen slowly, evenly and without stress until October. Harvest between 28 September and 7 October – not a moment too early, not a moment too late. Then: more than a year in barrique and tonneau, almost two and a half years in large oak casks, a further year in the bottle. An ageing process that is not rushed because it cannot afford to be.

An unrivalled powerhouse and at the same time of a unique beauty and finesse. Villero (only produced in the best vintages) is an overwhelming interpretation of the otherwise rather austere Nebbiolo grape, which here displays a kaleidoscope of life and vigour.

Deep, full red with a fine sheen. The La Morra edition from Vietti's famous Barolo family convinces with an impressive aroma of red berries, cherries, wild herbs, mint, minerals and rose petals, rounded off with a hint of blood orange. The palate is opulent, full, with fine sweetness and structure, and the multi-layered, long final is accompanied by downright aristocratic tannin. A typical Vietti cru with a lot of class. SUPERIORE.DE

Vietti's Ravera is one of the very big stars of Piedmont in its precision and structure. Rose petals, chalk, pepper and a hint of pomegranate make this Barolo one of the most sought-after in the appellation every year. With a little ageing, the strong tannins give way to an elegant impression that does not deviate one millimetre from the coveted style of this great vineyard. A monument of Barolo, which only a few other winemakers in Piedmont besides Vietti and also Giacosa bottle with such consistency! SUPERIORE.DE