Vermentino

It is a story of transformation, written in the granite slopes of Gallura. Vign'Angena – the "foreign vineyard" in the Sardinian dialect – bears a name full of poetic irony. What once began as rented land, whose grapes Capichera used in the early years of her Vermentino revolution, became the quintessence of her own excellence. Since the first vinification in 1994, this DOCG wine has embodied the purest soul of the Gallurese terroir. Where the rows of vines between Olbia and Palau breathe the salty winds of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Vermentino thrives on the same soils that once harboured Nuragic giants. The nearby tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju silently tells of thousands of years of Sardinian history – here, where Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda realised their vision of a new Vermentino era. No wood touches these grapes; only cool stainless steel preserves the crystalline purity of the harvest, which does not begin until mid-August each year.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a feat: an elegant Vermentino that combines origin, grape variety and cultivation method with rare depth. The grapes come from organically cultivated plots at coastal altitudes – constantly ventilated, but characterised by intense sunshine and a high day/night temperature gradient. The combination of maritime breezes and calcareous soils creates a white wine of impressive substance.

In 1980, a quiet revolution began in the granite hills of Gallura. What began as the bold vision of two young brothers was to change the Sardinian wine world forever: The first Vermentino in the world to undergo partial ageing in French barriques. Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda dared to do the unthinkable – they believed that their beloved Vermentino could be on a par with the great international white wines. The name Capichera itself tells of ancient greatness: Caput erat – "it was the capital" – the Latin reminder of the historical importance of these lands belonging to the Ragnedda family. Here, where granite soils write Sardinian history and the sea breezes aerate the vines, the white flagship of a winery that made history has been produced for over four decades. The Vermentino ferments for four weeks in cool stainless steel before finding its way into new and used barriques.

Cerdena – a name that sounds like a secret, but harbours the most poetic truth of Sardinia. This is what the Romans called this island before it became Sardegna. When Antonio Argiolas names his single-varietal top-quality Vermentino this way, it is a declaration of love to an island that reveals its most tender soul in its white wines. In the coastal vineyards of Serdiana, where the salty winds of the Mediterranean blow over the warm limestone and granite soils, Vermentino thrives in an almost magical symbiosis. Here, where the vines are bathed by the cool sea breeze at night, while the Sardinian sun ripens the grapes to perfection during the day, a wine is created year after year that bears the essence of this unique island. Vinification follows the philosophy of gentle extraction: temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures to preserve the delicate flavours, followed by a short maturation on the fine lees. No wood should mask the pure freshness of this Mediterranean symphony – cerdena is the essence of Vermentino in its purest form.

Riccardo Bruna was U Baccan – the boss, the patron, the head. That's what the people in Ranzo called him. He was the one who started bottling his family's pigato in 1970, when nobody else was doing it. He was the one who managed the terraces, repaired the walls and brought up the daughters. Francesca gave up her career as an engineer, Annamaria as a pharmacist – both returned to continue running the estate. The estate bears his name, this wine bears his nickname. The grapes for the U Baccan come exclusively from the oldest plots above Ranzo – vines over fifty years old, on soils with iron oxide and manganese inclusions, which give the soil its characteristic red colour and the wine its depth. The result, says Ian d'Agata in "Native Wine Grapes of Italy", is the paradigmatic Pigato of all: balsamic and rich. Fermentation in steel, ageing in large wooden barrels – the wood as a resting pole, not as a flavour carrier. The wine opens slowly, needs air and time.

From the vineyards near the historic villa, where the woods reach the sea, comes a visionary interpretation of Vermentino – a wine that allows the inexhaustible possibilities of this ancient grape variety to shine in a completely new light. Scenario embodies five years of research at Tenuta Argentiera, a meticulous study of the evolutionary potential of Vermentino that culminated in various vinification and ageing experiments between 2020 and 2022. The grapes for this exceptional Bolgheri Bianco ripen high up at 260 metres above sea level, in small plots close to the protective forests where maritime breezes meet centuries-old pine trees. Only 8,000 bottles are produced annually from this carefully curated Vermentino in its purest form – a precious witness to that unique microclimate between the sea and the Mediterranean scrub.

When the macchia mediterranea is immersed in autumnal stillness and the first dew wets the Sardinian hills, one of the boldest stories of modern viticulture begins. At the end of September, when all other harvests had long since finished, the Ragnedda brothers waited for a few more precious weeks. Their vision at the time: to complete the first Sardinian white wine in history in French barriques. A venture that changed Sardinia's wine landscape forever. The VT – vendemmia tardiva – is both Capichera's greatest challenge and proudest achievement. Each grape waits until it is saturated with sugar and flavour components that only late October can give. What begins as a simple Vermentino is transformed into pure magic through this patient maturation and four months in fine barriques. This wine only finds its way into the world two years after the harvest – the time it needs to reveal its unmistakable, powerful character.

From the vineyards near the historic villa, where the woods reach the sea, comes a visionary interpretation of Vermentino – a wine that allows the inexhaustible possibilities of this ancient grape variety to shine in a completely new light. Scenario embodies five years of research at Tenuta Argentiera, a meticulous study of the evolutionary potential of Vermentino that culminated in various vinification and ageing experiments between 2020 and 2022. The grapes for this exceptional Bolgheri Bianco ripen high up at 260 metres above sea level, in small plots close to the protective forests where maritime breezes meet centuries-old pine trees. Only 8,000 bottles are produced annually from this carefully curated Vermentino in its purest form – a precious witness to that unique microclimate between the sea and the Mediterranean scrub.