James Suckling | 95–100 Points

When the morning dew moistens the young Vermentino vines in Gallura, the inspiration for Lintóri – sardinian for "Rugiada del mattino". Since 2010, the traditional Capichera winery has been vinifying this deliberately freshest expression of its Vermentino portfolio from the youngest vineyards between Arzachena, Olbia and Palau. Where ancient granite formations meet sea breezes, the 100% Vermentino thrives on sandy, stony soils of volcanic origin. The hand-picked grapes from the late August harvest are matured in stainless steel to preserve their crystalline minerality.

What the Carricante is for white wines, the Nerello Mascalese is for red wines on Etna: a grape variety that is not so clearly moulded by any other terroir in the world. Thin-skinned, light-coloured, low in tannin – fragile at first glance. At second glance: precise to the bone. The younger Nerello Mascalese vines from the Contrada Montedolce form the basis of the Contrade Nuove – direct, accessible, with the fresh character that the northern slope climate at 730 to 750 metres almost inevitably produces. The warm summer of 2022 gave the wine a little more texture and dark fruit than usual – the timely rain in autumn kept it fresh. Davide Rosso vinifies with a kit that is unusual by Etna standards: amphorae for oxygen contact, conical oak barrels and stainless steel. Giovanni's deliberate way of breaking the reduction tendency of the Nerello without sacrificing fruit and minerality.

Monte Carbonare comes from red volcanic iron soils with plenty of black basalt in the centre. Six hectares of 60-70 year old vines in cooler sites, which continue to rise to the crème de la crème of the top sites as the climate warms. A richer wine than the younger Classico, but without the same cheeky vitality. While the Classico is an unbeatable everyday wine, the Monte Carbonare is a complex wine that demands food and a little more contemplation. Mirabelle plum, apricot pit, a hint of dried mango and plenty of smoky, sharp mineral grip, with dutiful freshness that brings wonderful length. SUPERIORE.DE

Cortona is only thirty kilometres from Montepulciano – and yet it is a different world. Here, on the high plateau with its dense Pliocene clays and iron oxide soils, around 300 metres above sea level, Merlot grows as if it had never been at home anywhere else. Federico Carletti recognised the potential early on – and In Violas was created in 2006. This was catalysed by his friendship with the Aliotti Tommasi family, owners of the same land. A Merlot that Carletti himself calls "con un'anima toscana". With a Tuscan soul. 100% Merlot, certified organic, 5,600 vines per hectare. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation and maceration in conical vats for 18 to 22 days, ageing in large oak barrels.

An Etna Rosso with a clear vision: Ghiaia Nera is the introduction to the volcanic world of Tenuta Tascante – straightforward, elegant and characterised by the dramatic tension of the volcano. The grapes come from various locations on the north side of Mount Etna, around Randazzo and Castiglione di Sicilia. Volcanic sand, high altitude and large temperature differences characterise the style. It is traditionally matured in large wooden barrels. Brilliant ruby red colour with garnet hues in the glass. The nose opens with ripe cherry, dried raspberry, some orange zest and fine herbal notes. Juicy on the palate, with fresh acidity and a fine-grained tannin reminiscent of black tea. A wine with precision and cool noblesse, not a powerhouse, but a finely drawn red wine that clearly emphasises its origins. SUPERIORE.DE

Avignonesi's aromatic classic has a lean to medium body, seamless tannins and a delicious flavour profile. Intense ruby red with garnet-coloured reflections. On the nose, aromas of red berries, cherry, eucalyptus and pomegranate and the unmistakable scent of violets so typical of the Sangiovese grape, with a hint of vanilla and Mediterranean herbal spice in the background. Well-balanced on the palate, with beautiful primary notes of ripe cherry and plum. The warm, ethereal body is embedded in a dense tannin structure and leads into a long, persistent finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant ruby red with a light-coloured rim. Very precise bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and spices. The palate is light and lively, with an elegant and deep fruit component accompanied by a delicate bitter note and fine spice. A very elegant and juicy Pinot Nero with good Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Schiopetto's Friulano is youthfully unobtrusive with a pretty bouquet that blends lemon peel with mint and hints of crushed rock. It washes over the palate with a tense mix of citrusy acids and salty minerals, while a core of tropical melon develops towards the end. Finishes on a more delicate note, but long and with pretty inner flowers that still linger. The beautiful balance and underlying power of this wine will guarantee good ageing in the bottle. The best is yet to come. SUPERIORE.DE

Schiopetto has been producing Pinot Grigio since 1968 – long before it became Italy's best-selling mass-produced white wine (unfortunately in many other regions) – and the Rotolo family has never forgotten what it can really do: Depth, juiciness, mineral tension. On the Ponca hills of Capriva del Friuli, in marly soils of Eocene origin, the variety finds a soil that does not allow it to be arbitrary. Gentle pressing, short sulphur-free decanting, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature – eight months on the lees. No wood, no detours, everything focussed on the Ponca.

Probably the most precise expression of Sauvignon Bianco, which Volpe Pasini vinifies year after year, comes from the privileged single vineyard Zuc di Volpe. At high altitude near Togliano, on marl and calcareous flysch soils, the grape variety achieves a rare balance of aromatic richness, vibrant freshness and elegant texture. 2023 was a challenging but ultimately harmonious vintage: a cool spring and changeable weather until July demanded a great deal of sensitivity, but the stable, mild late summer produced concentrated, expressive grapes with a perfect acid structure. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks and matures for several months on the fine lees, which gives it additional depth and balance.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Grave di Stecca is Nino Franco's exposed single vineyard on the slopes of the Prealpi. The south-facing vineyard is planted exclusively with the Prosecco grape Glera. Brilliantly shining white gold, gently developing perlage, a bouquet of sage with fresh fruit flavours. Very pleasantly dry flavour, silky and long – the indisputably great top-quality wine from the renowned Prosecco producer. SUPERIORE.DE

This exceptional Cabernet is dedicated to one of the Mazzei family's most illustrious ancestors: Philip Mazzei (1730-1816), a visionary thinker, American patriot and viticultural pioneer who, together with Thomas Jefferson, founded viticulture in Virginia. As a close friend of Jefferson, Mazzei inspired the famous doctrine "All men are created equal" in the American Declaration of Independence. Philip combines the quintessence of Tuscany from two renowned estates: Cabernet Sauvignon from Castello di Fonterutoli in Chianti Classico and from Tenuta Belguardo in Maremma. This unique fusion of different terroirs creates aromatic complexity and depth – the limestone soils of Fonterutoli lend minerality and elegance, while the sandstone soils of the Maremma contribute structure and vigour.

Animalucente consists mainly of Carricante from 70-100 year old vines, some of which are still ungrafted. Shiny, ethereal and extravagant in the glass, the bright colour is reminiscent of a lava flow in a wild and romantic setting. The palate is extremely flavoursome, vertical, with a tangy acidity and creaminess that makes you want to drink the next glass. Animalucente is a strong, forward and very authentic Etna wine and the perfect fusion of heaven and earth. SUPERIORE.DE

New world meets old world. Impressive Sauvignon Bianco from higher-lying plots in the Langhe around Treiso and Trezzo Tinella, harvested cool and rigorously selected. The musts are fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel; the wine then remains on the fine lees for several months (with gentle stirring), without malolactic fermentation and without the use of wood – for maximum aromatic precision and a fine, chalky texture.

A declaration of love for Tuscany is how the Ferragamos describe their most pure expression. The Vigna Polissena lies on slate soils with perfect drainage, a terroir made for Sangiovese. James Suckling once compared the wines produced here to the best Brunellos. The must rests on the skins for twenty-two days before being transferred to Allier barriques – a third of which are new. For eighteen months, the wood moulds the structure without masking the character. A further six months in steel give the wine time to find its feet.

At some point in the history of Nals Margreid, the Gambero Rosso even declared Sirmian to be the best white wine in Italy. We are not surprised. Above Nals, in the Sirmian district, the slopes lie between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. South-east facing, alpine climate: mild summers, cool autumns, a long growing season that ends in mid-October with the harvest. The soil is a geological archive: Permeable glacial moraine of limestone, gneiss, mica, slate and marble, deposited millions of years ago by glaciers in the Western Alps, resting on porphyry, the volcanic bedrock of the bedrock.

When Andrea Franchetti arrived on the northern slope of Mount Etna in 2000, he found an abandoned volcanic landscape – dilapidated vineyards, overgrown terraces, the gloom of a forgotten wine region. But he recognised the potential of these extreme altitudes. Passobianco, first vinified in 2007, is his white answer to the volcanic terroir: pure Chardonnay from the Contrada Guardiola, planted between 850 and 1,000 metres on steep terraces, where the powdery lava soil glistens black like the night. Fermented in steel tanks at cool temperatures, matured partly in concrete and partly in large wooden barrels – a vinification that preserves purity and creates complexity.

Antonio Bragato, born in Germany but with an absolute Friulian identity, joined forces 20 years ago with Gianni Maccari, who was cellar master at Livio Felluga for many years and founded his own winery Ronco della Rocca at the beginning of the millennium. Maccari, who has a degree in agronomy and Oenologist, is considered one of the best-trained viticultural experts in Friuli. The profound knowledge of his own 12 hectares of vineyards as well as the leased plots and the radical precision in the execution of every operation characterise the clear style and the reliable quality of the wines that Antonio Bragato creates there together with him.

It is a story of transformation, written in the granite slopes of Gallura. Vign'Angena – the "foreign vineyard" in the Sardinian dialect – bears a name full of poetic irony. What once began as rented land, whose grapes Capichera used in the early years of her Vermentino revolution, became the quintessence of her own excellence. Since the first vinification in 1994, this DOCG wine has embodied the purest soul of the Gallurese terroir. Where the rows of vines between Olbia and Palau breathe the salty winds of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Vermentino thrives on the same soils that once harboured Nuragic giants. The nearby tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju silently tells of thousands of years of Sardinian history – here, where Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda realised their vision of a new Vermentino era. No wood touches these grapes; only cool stainless steel preserves the crystalline purity of the harvest, which does not begin until mid-August each year.

The elegant blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot surprises with its aroma full of purity and intensely aromatic fruit flavour. Elegance and finesse trump muscle in Turpino, a wine that is always light on its feet. Fermentation in wooden barrels and ageing in barriques lend the spicy, balsamic notes of the grape blend a softness, a fine frame and a beguilingly long finish on the palate. With its tangy acidity balancing the ripe fruit, Turpino manages to be generous and restrained at the same time, making it a great accompaniment to Mediterranean meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE