Gewürztraminer

Monogramma is an approach: we wait. Whilst standard Traminer is harvested at the usual stage of ripeness, Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri leave their best plots on the vine for a further 10 to 12 days. What happens during this time is not overripeness – ; it is a concentration, a densification of the aromas, a slow transformation of fresh fruit into something more complex. Gewürztraminer is, in any case, one of the most expressive grape varieties in the world. Normally: rose, peach, lychee, elderflower – — explosive, direct, immediate. In the Spätlese selection from the plots in Faedo/Coveli (300 m) and Cembra (450 m), an additional dimension emerges: tropical fruit, spices, a deep, rich texture that the wine develops through the late harvest. The house method remains the same: washing the grapes, pressing in a controlled atmosphere without oxygen. What ends up in the glass is solely a reflection of the place and the time.

When the first snow powders the peaks and most winegrowers have long since closed their cellars, the real work begins on Mount Roen. At the end of November, sometimes not until the beginning of December, grapes are still hanging on the vines here – golden-brown, raisined, concentrated to the essence. Every year it is a new bet with the weather, a calculated risk that the Tramin winery has been taking for decades. Because what matures here on the eastern and south-eastern slopes above Söll at an altitude of 300 to 500 metres is no ordinary sweet wine. The 15 to 25-year-old vines are deeply rooted in calcareous gravel and loamy soil, interspersed with porphyry rock. The extreme climate – mediterranean-sunny days, followed by icy downdraughts from the Dolomites – forces the grapes to concentrate, squeezing everything they have to give. The yield? A meagre 25 hectolitres per hectare. Luxury in liquid form. harvest is followed by careful maceration, then gentle pressing at just 1.2 bar. The must matures in barriques for a whole year before being left to rest in the bottle for a further few months.

Since 1986, the Gewürztraminer has been one of the founding wines of the legendary Sanct Valentin range – the premium collection with which cellar master Hans Terzer once set a new benchmark for South Tyrolean premium wines. From carefully selected vineyards in the municipality of Eppan, where the grape variety finds ideal conditions on calcareous gravel at altitudes of between 450 and 600 metres, the winery selects only the very best grapes for this wine. What sets it apart, alongside its aromatic intensity, is its remarkable longevity – a quality that distinguishes it from many other Gewürztraminers and promises a magnificent drinking experience even after years of bottle ageing. The grapes are hand-harvested with rigorous selection. A short maceration is followed by gentle pressing, before temperature-controlled fermentation begins. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel tanks.

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

The world-famous Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer has been a real benchmark for years and is also a convincing wine in terms of longevity. Bright yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Typically perfect, complex and deep, but also agile and fresh with beautiful nuances. A broad bouquet of rose petals, smoke and oriental spices. On the palate it flows silky smooth, velvety and spicy, lingers for a long time, great! SUPERIORE.DE

Tardus – Latin for 'late'. The name itself encapsulates the choice that sets this wine apart from most German Spätlese wines: Tiefenbrunner does not follow the northern model, but rather the Alsatian school of "Vendange Tardive" – concentrated, powerful, and designed to emphasise structure and aromatic depth rather than pure sweetness. The grapes ripen on the south-south-west-facing slope above the historic Turmhof estate in Niclara, at an altitude of 250 to 350 metres. Here, "Spätlese" means that the grapes remain on the vine for significantly longer, concentrating sugar, aromatics and extract before they are harvested.

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

Less than 1,000 bottles of this Gewürztraminer Riserva are produced each year. The grapes are harvested at the end of December - just when they are finely coated with the noble fungus Botrytis cinerea. Golden, almost amber-coloured sheen, quince, dried fruit and rose petals on the nose. Concentrated on the palate, delicate honey flavour, sweet and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Juvelo is the crown jewel of Andrian. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – while others have long since harvested their grapes, here a few Gewürztraminer vines are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes hang on the vine until they are clearly covered in noble mould. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the grape skin and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are picked by hand, berry by berry. There is no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months of ageing in barriques, time that this wine needs to develop its complexity.

In the quiet hollow above Söll, where the Gewürztraminer vines escape the warm south wind from Lake Garda, a mystery of rare beauty takes place every year. Here, protected in this natural arena between 400 and 500 metres above sea level, the eagerly awaited Botrytis cinerea – the noble rot – finds its perfect conditions. While other vineyards have long since been emptied, the Terminum grapes remain on the vine until the first months of winter. December is their time of perfection, when they have become golden treasure troves of pure flavour, marked and concentrated by botrytis. Each berry is selected individually, each bearing the promise of exceptional complexity. Twelve hours of maceration, gentle pressing at a maximum of 1.8 bar, then the must is transferred to French barriques. Fermentation begins there, which lasts six to nine months. A further seven to ten months of ageing in wood, followed by at least three months of bottle ageing complete the deceleration process.

Gewürztraminer has a place name in its name – and thus a whole story. Tramin, a small village in the South Tyrolean lowlands, is considered the original home of this grape variety, whose aromatic power has fascinated and polarised people in equal measure for centuries. Those who like it, love it. Those who know it know that in the wrong hands it becomes a caricature. At the Cantina Terlan, it is something else. The Lunare is the pinnacle of this interpretation. Grown at 300–400 metres in south-west-facing porphyry vineyards, where downdraughts and pronounced day-night temperature differences give Gewürztraminer exactly what it needs: aromatic precision instead of perfumed richness. The name hints at what the wine fulfils – something noctilucent, cool, unreal and clear.

This beguiling Gewürztraminer is one of the most exciting growths in the wine world and the favourite of the Italians. Golden yellow with an aroma potpourri of roses, exotic fruits and oriental spices. Powerful and complex on the palate with discreet residual sweetness and a long finish. Gewürztraminer Sanct Valentin is an absolute top growth that promises wonderful drinking pleasure even after many years. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweet, mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

No grape variety bears its origin as confidently in its name as Traminer. Whether it really comes from the South Tyrolean village of Tramin or is actually older – its aromatic signature is recognised worldwide. It is one of the founding members of the Nonino cru line: Moscato Giallo, Verduzzo and Traminer were the first to be selected by Benito and Giannola for the ÙE experiment. The grapes grow in Cà Viola in Friuli, at an altitude of 500 metres, where cool nights concentrate the aromas. Harvested at perfect ripeness and processed immediately, they undergo the characteristic ÙE process: skin, pulp and juice distilled together.

Adjacent to the Kolbenhof there is an extremely steep vineyard, "Leiten" in South Tyrol, which is more south-facing. It descends into the deep gorge of the Hell Valley and is exposed to a very special microclimate. Thanks to the persistent coolness, the grapes ripen slowly and are harvested by hand only in November. They are then overripe and particularly tasty - ideal for the Gewürztraminer Spätlese Rechtenthaler Schloßleiten.

In the 1930s, Konrad Oberhofer was one of the first in South Tyrol to begin vinifying wine separately from a single, precisely defined parcel. No cuvée, no blending of different vineyards – just this one patch of earth, its vines, its character. An idea that hardly anyone understood at the time and which Paolo Foradori, Oberhofer's son-in-law, later elevated to a philosophy for the entire Hofstätter estate decades later. Pirchschrait – a historic part of the Kolbenhof farm in Söll – has been his monument ever since. What distinguishes the Pirchschrait from all other plots of the Kolbenhof is its tranquillity. Exposed to the east-west to north-east, with a slope angle of 35 per cent, it receives the least amount of sunlight of all the Kolbenhof terraces. While the other sites soak up the Mediterranean light, this one retains a cool precision – and that rare combination of long, even ripening and exceptional ageing potential that only shady sites can offer. The soil is a geological sediment from three eras: glacial dolomite, volcanic porphyry and sandstone all in one.

Four kilometres deep inside the mountain, 450 metres below the surface, in total darkness: here, in the disused Ridanna Monteneve silver mine at an altitude of over 2,000 metres, a silent metamorphosis is taking place. For seven years, 2,150 bottles of Epokale have been resting at a constant temperature of 11 degrees and 90 per cent humidity – —a maturation process that pays homage to a bygone era, when sweet Gewürztraminer Spätlese wines were still the kings of Alpine wine culture. The name says it all: Epokale – epoch-making. The 2009 vintage made history as the first Italian white wine to be awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. What Willi Stürz, cellar master and technical director at Cantina Tramin for 35 years, has observed empirically over decades was recently confirmed by a scientific study conducted by the Fondazione Mach: Gewürztraminer is one of the few white wines in the world that not only ages well but also develops and refines its character over a period of twenty years. Monoterpenes – — the aromatic compounds that give rise to notes of rose, nutmeg, mango and lychee – are slowly released over the years through enzymatic processes that continually impart new facets to the wine.

The name says it all. This wine is a reminiscence of a bygone era. It is a Gewürztraminer vinified in the traditional style with clearly perceptible residual sugar. The grapes come from two of the oldest Gewürztraminer vineyards near the Nußbaumerhof in Tramin from soils with calcareous gravel and porphyry rock.