Falstaff

Giacomo Neri's new top Brunello was born with the purchase of a very special vineyard. True to the winery's philosophy of making wines only from the best terroirs around Montalcino, a small 7-hectare parcel with over 45 years of vines was purchased a few years ago. This was preceded by a friendship of over 40 years with the previous owners, with whom Giacomo's father Giovanni Neri planted the vines and nurtured them over the past decades.

Sperss. The word sounds like a sigh, like a breath of melancholy wafting over the hills of Piedmont. In the local dialect, it means nostalgia, longing, homesickness for a time that will never return. When Angelo Gaja was finally able to acquire the twelve hectares in Serralunga d'Alba in 1988, which his father Giovanni had raved about since his youth, there was only one possible name for this wine. Sperss was the fulfilment of a family dream – the first Barolo from the Gaja family, the step out of Barbaresco into the legendary terrain that Giovanni had already learnt about as a young man during the grape harvest. The Marenca and Rivette vineyards form a natural amphitheatre at an altitude of 370 metres – compact, calcareous marl that gives the wine the mineral depth and iron structure for which Serralunga is famous. Here, where the over 50-year-old Nebbiolo vines drive their roots deep into the stony soil, the wine is not a pleasant one.

The grapes for UnoPerUno come from the cru sites Arborina in La Morra, Cannubi in Barolo, Pernanno in Castiglione Falletto, Sarmassa in Barolo and Cerretta in Serralunga d'Alba and are individually destemmed. As a result of this intensive manual labour, just 1,300 bottles of this exceptional wine are sold in the well-stocked specialist shops, and only in the best vintages. Due to the manual destemming, no green overtones from the stems get into the mash, making the tannins silkier and creamier than with the conventional method. The result is something to savour: UnoPerUno has a high fruit intensity, incredible depth and structure and is a benchmark of the appellation every year in its purity and clarity on the nose and palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Manetti was just twenty when he and Oenologist Franco Bernabei pressed their first vintage in 1981: a pure Sangiovese, at a time when the rules of Chianti Classico still stipulated a proportion of white wine. What began as an act of rebellion became a legend. Flaccianello della Pieve, one of the first monovarietal super Tuscans, which proved that Sangiovese can achieve world class without blending. The name comes from the original vineyard, but since 2001 Flaccianello has been a selection of the best grapes from three plots on the estate, especially those at the highest altitudes at 480 metres, where Pietraforte soils dominate. This conglomerate of sandstone varieties gives the wine the freshness and structure that sets it apart from the rest.

Rich, concentrated Bordeaux-style red with the unmistakable signature of top oenological consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. Multi-layered black fruit on the nose, plus rock, liquorice, camphor and graphite. Impressively supple on the palate, the fruit is always juicy and centred, wonderful and almost perfect in structure, polish, elegance and length. SUPERIORE.DE

It was spring 2010, a family lunch at Altare. Elio opens a bottle of Larigi 1986 – a Barbera from a notoriously difficult vintage, characterised by hail and rain, one of the last bottles from the family library. The expectations? Low. The result? Spectacular. Antonio Galloni later said of this wine: "The fruit remains lively and incredibly pure right through to the long, polished final. The balance is simply superb." Why was this wine so exceptional? Because in 1986, in a vintage destroyed by hail, Elio decided to destem every single berry by hand – only the few perfect berries went into the mash. Two barriques, 600 bottles, one great Barbera. Silvia Altare remembers this lunch and the idea that came from it: "Why don't we try this with Nebbiolo? And why not with our historic family vineyard Arborina?" The 2010 harvest was imminent and the grapes were perfectly ripe. The goal? Maximum purity of the fruit – no stems, no leaves, no unwanted berries, no insects. Because Nebbiolo is difficult to destem completely: The stems are fragile, even the most expensive machines cannot work as precisely as the human hand. 26 days of work, three barriques, 900 bottles – the first UnoPerUno was born. 2010 was never released, it was the first attempt ...

The cult wine Antinoris, harvested and vinified on the Tignanello estate, shows the unmistakable Tuscan identity. A very intense, highly complex red wine that expresses the character of its grape varieties in a wonderfully balanced way. Its irresistible softness on the palate is the result of perfectly ripe grapes, with notes of coffee, chocolate, peppermint and liquorice as it progresses. A complex wine of great structure, finesse and elegance with supple, velvety tannins. A classic for lovers and collectors with potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Rare, exceptional Merlot from the west of Tuscany: deep ruby red with violet reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered with hints of wild berries and blackberries, ripe cherries, but also liquorice and tobacco notes. Very structured and lively on the palate. The silky tannins emphasise the delicate minerality right through to the almost endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Rare, exceptional Merlot from the west of Tuscany: deep ruby red with violet reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered with hints of wild berries and blackberries, ripe cherries, but also liquorice and tobacco notes. Very structured and lively on the palate. The silky tannins emphasise the delicate minerality right through to the almost endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Vintage 2018 marks Vietti's exciting Barolo debut from one of Piedmont's most famous vineyards, characterised by exuberant aromas and bright, red-tinged fruit. The bouquet is enormously opulent with ripe fruit aromas ranging from wild cherry to red currant. This is joined by original tones of jam, plum and a hint of ragout. The palate is nuanced and very deep, with enormous complexity, volume and character. Vietti's Cerequio is stunning right off the bat! SUPERIORE.DE

Terlano I (pronounced Primo) Grande Cuvée is the name of the white flagship of Cantina Terlano. In recent years, the winery has made a name for itself worldwide with its long-lasting, mineral white wines. Even years later, the wines still present themselves with top freshness and great complexity. With this long history of white wines, since the 2011 vintage there is now a wine in which the essence of Terlan is expressed in an even more focussed way. Terlaner I Grande Cuvée combines the Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon grape varieties from the Winkl, Kreuth and Vorberg vineyards to create a masterpiece which, due to its limited and exclusive nature, will only be available from hand-picked retailers and in selected top restaurants.

Schiena d'Asino is a small vineyard from which this fabulous Brunello is produced exclusively in excellent years. Schiena captivates with its richness and overall intensity and is endowed with a lot of energy and varietal purity. Sage, rosemary and a host of Mediterranean herbs open up first, followed by graphite, smoke, incense, dark spices and black stone fruits. Wild, intensely mineral notes underpin the fruit and capture the essence of the great site. For an exceptional wine, this Brunello remains remarkably light on its feet, yet it is an introspective, brooding wine that will need at least a few years to show all it has to offer. SUPERIORE.DE

Terlano I (pronounced Primo) Grande Cuvée is the name of the white flagship of Cantina Terlano. In recent years, the winery has made a name for itself worldwide with its long-lasting, mineral white wines. Even years later, the wines still present themselves with top freshness and great complexity. With this long history of white wines, since the 2011 vintage there is now a wine in which the essence of Terlan is expressed in an even more focussed way. Terlaner I Grande Cuvée combines the Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon grape varieties from the Winkl, Kreuth and Vorberg vineyards to create a masterpiece which, due to its limited and exclusive nature, will only be available from hand-picked retailers and in selected top restaurants.

If there is one thing that Giacomo Neri has mastered 100%, it is harvesting at the optimal time of ripeness. He knows his property and his vines better than most and it shows.

Cepparello is one of the great varietal Sangiovese classics from central Tuscany. Brilliant ruby red colour. Clean, flawless aroma of red fruits, enlivened by fine pepper accents and delicate mineral nuances. Elegance radiates from the relaxed, enveloping flavour, which provides a perfectly measured acidity framework to a well-integrated tannin to finish long and full of finesse. SUPERIORE.DE

Andrea Franchetti began positioning Palazzi as an equal red alongside his flagship Tenuta di Trinoro in the 1990s, with the aim of producing two exceptional wines that evoke the left and right banks of Bordeaux.

Millecento Riserva from the dream vintage 2016 unfolds in the glass with hints of mocha, sweet cherry and plum, tobacco and a touch of fresh mint. There is a sense of opulence, but also of sophistication, as the texture of ripe red fruits with salty mineral notes glides across the palate, taking on a sweet herbal note towards the end. It finishes with a layer of fine tannins and acidic citrus, while tart wild berries and a hint of exotic spices linger. This wine still has several years of development ahead of it, but its refined blend of richness and elegance can already be experienced today. SUPERIORE.DE

Messorio has been undisputedly one of the best and rarest Merlots in Italy since the mid-1990s. It was named after the Tuscan wheat harvest, the most fundamental moment in the agricultural year – was created in 1994 from Eugenio Campolmi's (†2002) personal challenge to Merlot. It was not to be a tame, predictable wine, but a spirited thoroughbred, ready to make a grand entrance. The 2019 vintage epitomises the elegance of slow ripening without extreme heat. A mild winter with little rainfall, followed by cool March days and gradually rising temperatures in April, led to cautious development. The rainy, cool May slowed down the vegetation, while the hot start to June required intensive foliage work.

Energy and elegance are the hallmarks of the 2013 Brunello vintage. The top wines are stunning, with a vibrancy that is missing in many of the muscular, approachable and higher alcohol Brunellos from recent vintages. However, the 2013s will also require some patience to reach their maximum potential. In contrast to the extremely warm, dry years that have become the norm in Montalcino since the mid-1990s (the exceptions being 1998, 2002 and 2005), the 2013 vintage was a reminiscence of the past. It was a cool year with lots of rain in spring and the first half of summer.

The Ravera vineyard in Novello is considered one of the coolest and structurally most demanding crus in the Barolo zone – a terroir of calcareous marl with fine layers of sand, which gives the wines precision, firm tannins and exceptional longevity. Bricco Pernice originates from a parcel on the upper slope, perfectly exposed to the south-west, where the vines ripen evenly under a gentle breeze. 2018 was a moderate year with a balanced growing season and a long ripening phase, which gave the Nebbiolo elegance and aromatic depth.

When you hear the story of the effort that went into the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine people of Fèlsina are absolutely crazy. It took them two years to remove the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to practically abandon this noble location. But it is thanks to the ambitious Giovanni Poggiali that this spectacular vineyard (Vigneto Colonia) has become what it is today. It has reddish-brown soils, is rich in magnesium and iron and is therefore very different from all other Fèlsina vineyards.

Luce is the iconic wine of the estate of the same name and symbolises the harmonious balance between the elegant structure of Sangiovese and the richness of Merlot. The wine marries the tradition and terroir of the Montalcino region with a personal interpretation of this extraordinary land.

In the hot, challenging summers of the climate change era, Messorio proves its exceptional class. The 2020 vintage masterfully navigated through a difficult growing season and shows why Cinzia Merli's flagship is now one of the world's best Merlot interpretations. Only around 11,000 bottles of this rarity are produced from the Vignone (1999) and the younger Ulivino (2016) vineyards with the most rigorous yield reductions. The 18-month maturation in 100% French oak, 5% of which is in amphorae, creates an exceptional balance between power and refinement.