Decanter

Deep, shiny red colour. A beguiling blend of dark cherries, plums, mocha, liquorice, leather and cloves on the nose. Very compact and powerful fruit on the palate, characterised by deep intensity, dense layers and a velvety texture. Very focussed, balanced and certainly needs a few more years to develop fully. Outstanding elegance and length. In short: an absolute beauty! SUPERIORE.DE

Luce is the iconic wine of the estate of the same name and symbolises the harmonious balance between the elegant structure of Sangiovese and the richness of Merlot. The wine marries the tradition and terroir of the Montalcino region with a personal interpretation of this extraordinary land.

In 1977, a 34-year-old manager from Bergamo came to the Tuscan coast. Pier Mario Meletti Cavallari had had enough of balance sheets and meetings – the wine journalist Luigi Veronelli had persuaded him that his place was among the vines, not in offices. What he found: a piece of land without electricity, without running water, overgrown and forgotten. Only the name reminded him of a distant past: Grattamacco – the slag heaps of the Etruscans, who smelted iron here two and a half thousand years ago. Five years later, in 1982, Meletti Cavallari bottled his first wine – as a simple Vino da Tavola, three years before Ornellaia even existed.

Mazzei's top wine Siepi is not only an outstanding Tuscan wine every year, but also a 6-hectare vineyard in the middle of dense oak forests with an ideal altitude and a unique climate. The sunshine is optimal throughout the day and a constant breeze from the west prevents excessive heat and creates a mild, Mediterranean climate. The oak forests also provide an ideal protective barrier against extreme weather conditions. Rocky soils of marl, limestone and clay from the Pliocene period ensure a special balance of elements in this geological complex.

Romano Dal Forno started out in 1983 with a proposition that he has proven every vintage since: a Valpolicella can compete with the greatest wines in the world. He learnt this from Giuseppe Quintarelli. He internalised it in the Val d'Illasi, where his vines grow on alluvial gravel and clay, at up to 450 metres, with a planting density that makes every yield a rarity. Valpolicella Superiore does not begin fermentation – it begins with six weeks of appassimento. Corvina, Corvinone, Croatina, Oseleta and Rondinella dry slowly in the air of the lodoletta, losing water and gaining soul. Then: controlled fermentation in steel tanks, 36 months in new French and American oak barriques, years of ageing in the bottle.

The grapes for the "Suolo" Brunello selection come from the vineyard of the same name and from the estate's oldest vines. They lie at an altitude of 320 metres on soils of clay-limestone marl rich in skeletons and fossils. It is the ideal terroir to fully express the character of the old Sangiovese Grosso clones and gives the wine an acidic, spicy profile. Only part of the vineyard parcels are used for this label. Long ageing in 15-hectolitre Allier oak barrels and a resting period in the bottle complete it and prepare it for the market and the challenge of time. Around 5,000 bottles are bottled only in the best vintages.

The single vineyard Falletto in Serralunga d'Alba is one of the centrepieces of the Barolo region. On steep, south-facing slopes, whose marl and sandstone soils store heat and contribute minerality, Nebbiolo matures here into wines of great structure and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a stable summer with cool nights and sunny days allowed for long, even ripening and produced grapes of rare balance.

Mazzei's top wine Siepi is not only an outstanding Tuscan wine every year, but also a 6-hectare vineyard in the middle of dense oak forests with an ideal altitude and a unique climate. The sunshine is optimal throughout the day and a constant breeze from the west prevents excessive heat and creates a mild, Mediterranean climate. The oak forests also provide an ideal protective barrier against extreme weather conditions. Rocky soils of marl, limestone and clay from the Pliocene period ensure a special balance of elements in this geological complex.

Gaiole lies in the east of Chianti Classico on the border with Arezzo, where the hills are higher, the soil stonier and the climate cooler. San Sano is the highest of Antinori's three new single vineyards: 420 to 450 metres above sea level, on Galestro and Alberese – the characteristic soils that give the Sangiovese grape a precision and tension at this altitude that is not found anywhere else. Antinori acquired San Sano in 2014, the first of the three new vineyards – the gesture of a house that was serious about its return to Chianti Classico. 100% Sangiovese, 5,000 to 6,000 bottles.

The rarity wine symbolises Terlan's longevity: "A speciality of the Cantina Terlan are the rarities, special bottlings of mature white wines that have been stored for at least ten years on the fine lees in steel pressure tanks. The youthful freshness that characterises this Pinot Blanc despite its mature age is particularly impressive, making it perfect for longer ageing in the bottle. Terlan has the terroir to produce great white wines and skilfully demonstrates this with these rarities." Rudi Kofler, Kellermeister

Chiara Boschi's Cannubi 2020 beguiles on the nose with layers of fragrant fruit. A sensual Barolo and yet quite typical in its vineyard character. Soft, silky tannins frame the long finish. A wonderful wine, characterised by its balance and above all by the sweetness of its tannins. Very full-bodied, focussed and with great length. SUPERIORE.DE

Ornellaia has always sought more. More depth in its red wine, more expression of the terroir, more precision in its selection. But at some point, the question arose: what if all this were translated into a white wine? A white wine from Bolgheri, that coastal region which taught the world that Tuscany is more than just Sangiovese? Ornellaia Bianco is the answer. "Italy's most ambitious white wine", according to the estate itself. No modest claim. Sauvignon Blanc, exclusively. Three small plots in Bellaria, north-facing – an unusual choice in a Mediterranean climate. The cool aspect protects the aromas, prolongs ripening and preserves the freshness that distinguishes a great white wine from a merely pleasant one. Sandy loam soils on limestone, 130 metres above sea level. 13 hectares of white wine in a winery that focuses on 80 hectares of red.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia has a distinctive feature that few other wineries in the world share: it renames its flagship wine every year. Not simply by the vintage, but by evoking a feeling. Since 2006, each harvest has been assigned a term – precise, poetic, inevitably apt. In 2023, the word is: "La Vitalità". And in this vintage, it describes not only the wine, but the beginning of a new chapter. For Marco Balsimelli, director since January 2024, who trained at Boissenot and at Gruaud-Larose in Bordeaux, took the helm at Ornellaia precisely in the winter when the 2023 vintage was still ageing in the barrels. It was his first complete vintage – from the selection of the plots through to the blending and bottling. A debut under the watchful eye of the wine world. And the result proves him right.

A farewell and a new beginning at the same time. Cepparello 2021 marks Paolo De Marchi's final vintage as master of his life's work before the winery was transferred to the French EPI Group. After more than four decades of tireless work, the maestro from Piedmont completed his testament with this wine – a Sangiovese of paradoxical brilliance that retains an astonishing freshness and elegance despite its powerful fifteen per cent alcohol. The name Cepparello, which originates from the small stream at the highest point of the vineyards, has carried the revolutionary vision of one hundred per cent Sangiovese since 1980. What began as a rebellion against the Chianti Classico regulations – the absurd rule of adding white grapes – developed into an icon of pure Sangiovese expression.

Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2021 is a wine of extreme precision. It offers well-proportioned power and depth with profound layers of black fruit, coffee and liquorice. It captivates with its lustre and polished texture, which merges into great richness, concentration and structure. The finish is enveloping with sweet dark fruits and dark spices that linger for a long time. Ornellaia 2021 is a wonderful, if not perfect, example of the impressive potential of this great Tuscan vintage! SUPERIORE.DE

Ornellaia Bianco is a cuvée of mainly Sauvignon Bianco from three selected, small vineyards of Tenuta dell'Ornellaia. It ferments on the lees for 10 months, which gives it freshness, precision and a fine citrus note. Delicate golden yellow. A cornucopia of bright fruits on the nose, along with wonderful mint and citrus notes. Complex, lush and multi-layered on the palate. One of the very great white wines of Italy, completely in the style of the house. SUPERIORE.DE

The year 1991 was the first. With the 2021 vintage, Poggio di Sotto is celebrating its thirtieth Brunello – an anniversary that the estate is marking with a special label in gold print, discreetly and without pomp, entirely in the style of the house. Thirty vintages that have proven that elegance is not a weakness. 2021 was not an easy year. Late frosts in spring decimated the harvest, summer brought heat, August finally brought rain – a sequence that could have been disastrous in other hands. Cellar master Leonardo Berti sees this as the special character of this vintage: fewer grapes, more concentration and an intensity gained through stress, which was kept in balance by the freshness of the long growing season. The soils – a mosaic of white and red clay, galestro and grey marl – did the rest. Spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, maceration for at least 30 days, 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, unfiltered. The recipe is the same. The wine is not.

At the very top of the Serradenari parcel, the fruit grows for an exceptional Barolo, with which the young winemaker Giulia Negri has truly created a monument to herself. Marassio clearly benefits from the cool climate of Piedmont's high altitudes and will therefore hardly change its character even if the climate continues to change.

From the 2020 vintage, Ornellaia Bianco is a single-varietal Sauvignon Bianco from three selected, small vineyards at Tenuta dell'Ornellaia. It ferments on the lees for 10 months, which gives it freshness, precision and a fine citrus flavour. Delicate golden yellow colour. A cornucopia of light-coloured fruit on the nose, with wonderful mint and citrus notes. Complex, lush and multi-layered on the palate. One of Italy's great white wines, in the style of the house. SUPERIORE.DE

The red label rarely appears. Very rarely. In the entire history of the Giacosa estate, it has been awarded to Le Rocche in less than a dozen vintages – 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016, each time signalling that the family has jointly decided that this vintage is more than just good. That it can be timeless. 2020 is the latest chapter in this great story. What distinguishes the red label from the white label? Not the grape, not the vineyard, not the location. Le Rocche is Le Rocche – the same parcel on the upper Falletto amphitheatre in Serralunga d'Alba, south-west facing, chalky clay, vines almost 50 years old. What changes is the time. For the white label: 32 months in large French oak barrels, ten months in bottle. For the red label: identical vinification, but then the decisive difference – more than two years of bottle ageing. The result will not be released on the market until January 2026. A wine that has not yet reached its true class even six years after the harvest.

From some of the oldest Sangiovese vineyards comes Colore every year, the maximum expression of Bibi Graetz' dream. The barren, sandy soils at high altitudes create the perfect terroir for a wine that can tell the true story of Tuscany and its inhabitants. The grapes for Colore were selected from vineyards in Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena. Each vineyard was harvested up to eight times in order to achieve the optimum ripening time for as many grapes as possible. Each parcel is matured separately in barriques for almost two years before the final blend is decided. Only the best Sangiovese barriques from each vintage become Colore. SUPERIORE.DE

Fragrant and fresh on the nose with beautiful concentration and complexity. Summery aromas of stone fruit, ripe peach, jasmine and a hint of fragrant beeswax. The racy, slender mouthfeel has a certain density and reveals an elegant hint of gravel and chalk and flavours of white almonds on the finish. Everything is already in its place here today, but it will become even more complex with further bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE