Decanter

Some layers are loud, others whisper. Cerequio is one of the whisperers – and if you don't listen carefully, you will miss the subtle nuances that make this cru one of the most enigmatic in the entire Barolo universe. Surrounded by its most prestigious neighbours La Morra, Cerequio lies at an altitude of 300 metres above a foundation of white clay and bluish marl. Roberto Voerzio likes to compare his Cerequio wines with Haut-Brion – an unusual comparison for a Barolo, but anyone who tastes this wine will understand the allusion: it is about that ethereal elegance that unfolds rather than imposes itself. What distinguishes Cerequio from the more powerful crus is its almost floating lightness. Voerzio speaks of "round, elegant, ethereal" – attributes that are rarely associated with Barolo. But this is precisely where the magic lies: Cerequio combines density with finesse, concentration with airiness. The 24-month maturation in French barriques and large barrels has given the wine depth without stifling its youthful grace.

Extremely focussed Barolo in a class of its own. Precisely defined fruit notes of wild berries, blackcurrant, rosehip and crushed slate. Firm on the palate with a very well-defined core, softly enveloped and cushioned by a very relaxed texture. Its elegance and extreme length, together with its well-balanced power, put it on a par with the Brunate from the same house. SUPERIORE.DE

Between the big names of the La Morra crus – cerequio to the west, Fossati to the north – lies La Serra, a location that is often underestimated and therefore fascinating. While Brunate impresses with its geological force, La Serra plays a more subtle game: poorer, stony soils force the Nebbiolo roots down to a depth of ten metres. What sounds like a tough battle actually gives the wine an unconventional elegance – fresh, spacious, precise. Roberto Voerzio cultivates his parcel with the same radicalism as in all his crus: extreme planting density, rigorous yield reduction, spontaneous fermentation without any intervention. But what comes out of this vineyard is clearly different from the virile intensity of Brunate.

There are sites in the Barolo universe that are not simply vineyards – they are geological statements. Brunate is one of these rare terroirs whose names alone elicit reverent silence. Situated between La Morra and Barolo, on calcareous marl soils with an east-south-east exposure, this cru site produces wines of archaic power and finesse at the same time. Actually a paradox ... Roberto Voerzio has been cultivating his plot in Brunate since the late 1980s with a radicalism that is unrivalled: 8,000 vines per hectare, only 500 grams of grapes per vine, aggressive yield reduction through green harvest. What sounds like self-mortification is in fact an uncompromising philosophy of quality. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel takes between 10 and 30 days, after which the wine matures for 24 months in used barriques and large barrels, followed by eight months in steel and a further eight in the bottle. Each phase is a deliberate wait for the right moment.

If Brunate is a geological statement and Cerequio whispers, then Rocche dell'Annunziata roars – but with aristocratic restraint. This site, whose name appears in connection with viticulture as early as the Middle Ages, is considered one of the most sought-after subzones of La Morra. Full southern exposure, geologically young soils of Sant'Agata marl with sand, limestone and an exceptionally high proportion of silt – an element that links Rocche dell'Annunziata with the legendary Cannubi Boschis. Roberto Voerzio calls this his most important site, not only because of its perfect exposure to the sun, but also because of the paradoxical combination of raw power and disarming elegance. Voerzio himself calls Rocche dell'Annunziata his "monolith" – and yet it is not a rigid block, but a wine full of inner tension. The 24-month maturation in used barriques and large barrels has lent it complexity without taming its youthful vitality. In the endless final, notes of dark fruit, liquorice, chocolate and a mineral precision remain, giving the wine its backbone.

At an altitude of 900 metres, on the northern slope of Mount Etna, lies a tiny amphitheatre. It is not a geometric structure, not a terraced work of human hands – but a natural cauldron of volcanic ash and lava rock, where old Nerello Mascalese vines have stood for more than a century, surrounded by wild flowers, olive trees, figs and cherries. James Button from Decanter wrote: Barbagalli is the most picturesque vineyard he has ever seen on Etna. Anyone who has ever visited it will understand why he doesn't seek any further comparison. These vines survived phylloxera. Almost all vineyards in Europe were destroyed by phylloxera at the end of the 19th century. Here, at an altitude of 900 metres, in black volcanic sand and rubble-rich rock, the pest had no basis back then. The vines are still standing on their own roots. The same roots that were pressed into this earth 100 to 120 years ago. They are reminiscent of an Etna that nobody recognises anymore.

The spectacular "Vendemmia d'Artista" artists' edition has been running since 2006. Every year, renowned artists are invited to design a small series of individual and large bottles of the world-famous Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore and create an artistic world around this fine wine. It is not a matter of course that we are once again able to offer you some examples of the rare 16th edition of the Ornellaia Vendemmia d'Artista 2021 in the 0.75-litre bottle this year. As usual, this special edition is rare and sought-after, as there is only one bottle of this limited collector's item in each 6-bottle wooden crate.

With this single-vineyard Sangiovese, the Mazzei family pursues no less a goal than to make the best wine in the Chianti Classico appellation. Seven different Sangiovese clones, four of them from their own 50 years of research, form the basis for a Gran Selezione that is produced at an altitude of up to 350 m in the single vineyard Il Caggio not far from Castellina (and only in the best vintages).

With this single-vineyard Sangiovese, the Mazzei family is pursuing no less a goal than making the best wine in the Chianti Classico appellation. Seven different Sangiovese clones, four of them from the family's own 50-year research, form the basis for a Gran Selezione, which is produced at an altitude of up to 350 metres in the single vineyard Il Caggio not far from Castellina (and only in the best vintages).

It was Eugenio Campolmi who, in 1989, plucked up the courage to give his flagship the name of a wild herb that grows on the Tuscan coast. Eugenio Campolmi (†2002) was not originally from the world of wine. He came from a family of restaurateurs and was supposed to take over his parents' restaurant and trading business. Instead, he and his wife Cinzia Merli took a bold leap into the unknown in 1983. Paleo – a name that stands for unbending identity and the will to achieve any goal. What began as a classic Bordeaux blend found its true destiny in 2001: 100% Cabernet Franc, a revolution in the still young Bolgheri.

Il Caberlot is more than just a wine - it is a unique statement. Since the 1980s, the Rogosky family has been vinifying one of Italy's rarest red wines with great restraint: pure Caberlot, a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot, exclusively from the tiny, high-altitude Il Carnasciale vineyard near Mercatale Valdarno. The stony, barren soils at an altitude of up to 520 metres and the continental microclimate of central Tuscany shaped the 2021 vintage in an ideal way: a fresh spring, a moderately warm summer and a long, dry autumn led to a late, selective harvest with exceptional aromatic finesse.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of his estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment, intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisas' dinner table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released onto the market – appearing in 1971 as a Vino da Tavola. The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – featuring 33 Cabernet wines from around the world – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged victorious. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single estate.

A castle ruin towers above the entrance to the village of Terlan. First mentioned in records in 1206. Much has changed since then – the languages, the borders, the owners. What has remained are the porphyry rock, the northern foehn wind and the determination to produce wine here that does justice to the village. Nova Domus – New House. Founded in 1893 by 24 winegrowers, with the simple aim of achieving more together than they could alone.

There are situations that don't need to be explained – you just have to name them. Romirasco is one of them. The highest parcel in the Bussia Soprana, 395 metres above sea level, less steep than the Cicala, but more exposed, cooler, more dramatic. The oldest vines on the entire estate are here – 65 to 70 years old, Nebbiolo Lampia on Rupestris du Lot rootstock, rooted in a soil of calcareous clay with exceptional amounts of manganese and magnesium. It is these minerals that give Romirasco its characteristic flavour – the unmistakable fingerprint that distinguishes it from Cicala and Colonnello even in blind tastings. Only 4,000 bottles are produced per vintage from 3.8 hectares – the lowest yield of all Conterno wines. Romirasco was first produced in the legendary 2004 vintage, when hail damage made it impossible to bottle the other crus separately. The result was so overwhelming that the Conternos decided to vinify this vineyard separately from then on. Today, Romirasco is considered the best wine of the house.

"Sassicaia really was our house wine back then," says Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of the president of San Guido, Marquis Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. "It was more of a wine experiment that was only tested within the family and among friends, until we went on the market for the first time with the 1968 vintage. Today, this wine is all about elegance and balance. We like this style, which is not so much about the body. Sassicaia is a good representative of what we want to convey as a style."

In Andrea Cortonesi's own words, 2019 was the first vintage since the legendary 1990 that gave him the feeling that everything was in balance. A slow start to vegetation after a rainy winter, a summer without heat peaks, even ripening until September. Harvest from 25 September – clean, healthy, concentrated. Already a stroke of luck for the Annata. For the Riserva: a perfect invitation. But not every vintage becomes a Riserva. And not every grape in the best vintage. Cortonesi only uses the oldest vines for the Riserva – planted in 1975, back when the word Brunello was hardly known outside Montalcino. Seven hectares, spread over sites between 150 and 350 metres in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, calcareous-clayey soils with marl and mineral structure. What grows here has decades of life in it.

The single vineyard Falletto in Serralunga d'Alba is one of the centrepieces of the Barolo region. On steep, south-facing slopes, whose marl and sandstone soils store heat and contribute minerality, Nebbiolo matures here into wines of great structure and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a stable summer with cool nights and sunny days allowed for long, even ripening and produced grapes of rare balance.

Badia a Passignano is always one of the many highlights in the Antinori range and is probably the estate's most refined and elegant Sangiovese. Its character is medium-bodied and supple, but with plenty of fruit intensity, which is typical of the vineyard of the same name. It skilfully strikes a balance between richness and finesse, captivating from the very first sip. Lavender, mint, blue-purple fruit and liquorice are beautifully brought out. It is a very traditional and noble expression of the Tuscan grape that is hard to resist. SUPERIORE.DE

It is by no means a given that we will once again be able to offer you a few bottles of the rare 18th edition of Ornellaia's "Vendemmia d'Artista" 2023 in 0.75-litre bottles this year. As usual, this special edition is rare and highly sought-after, as each wooden case of six contains just one bottle of this limited-edition collector's item.

Here comes the third vintage of Stefano Frascolla's heart project from the Alta Maremma. Just 2,500 bottles of this 100% Syrah are bottled, aged (on the skins) for half a year in amphorae, then filtered and matured in small French oak barrels.

From the oldest Merlot plot in the Le Sondraie vineyards comes Bell'Aja’s flagship wine – a wine that impressively demonstrates the ambition of the San Felice project in Bolgheri. Since 2016, this estate has rounded off the historic group’s interpretation of Tuscan wine: from the hills of Chianti Classico, through the prestigious vineyards of Montalcino, to this shining jewel on the Etruscan coast. Bell’Aja Superiore embodies the pure essence of a unique terroir: 95% Merlot from the estate’s most venerable vines blends with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to create a wine of impressive power and opulence. The sandy-clay soils of the Le Sondraie area, just five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, lend this Bordeaux-inspired blend the maritime minerality that makes Bolgheri one of the most fascinating terroirs in the wine world.

Black cherry red with a violet rim. On the nose, notes of spices such as ginger, cinnamon, dried coriander and vanilla pod, rounded off with fruit aromas of pomegranate and cherry, and floral nuances such as geranium, lavender and rose. On the palate, fresh rose sugar and graphite, accompanied by raspberry, cherry, fresh plum and cranberries. A long finish with a subtle hint of cassis. SUPERIORE.DE

A distinctive expression of southern elegance, shaped by the terroir of the Maremma and a cuvée that ingeniously combines Syrah and Grenache. The vines for the Tinata grow on loamy, calcareous soils on a hillside, not far from the Tyrrhenian coast near Capalbio. The 2021 vintage was balanced and almost ideal: a moderately warm summer, without any drought stress, followed by a long, sunny autumn – perfect conditions for fully ripe, aromatically complex grapes.

Black cherry red with a violet rim. On the nose, notes of spices such as ginger, cinnamon, dried coriander and vanilla pod, rounded off with fruity aromas of pomegranate and cherry, and floral nuances such as geranium, lavender and rose. On the palate, fresh rose sugar and graphite, accompanied by raspberry, cherry, fresh plum and cranberries. A long finish with a subtle hint of cassis. SUPERIORE.DE