Decanter

Born of fire. This is how the Cantina Terlan describes the red porphyry rock, between whose slopes the vineyards have nestled like small sun terraces. The rock is of volcanic origin, millions of years old, and it gives the area its unmistakable character – the wines their minerality, the cellar its façade, the wine its name. The porphyry is Terlan's red answer to the question of what Lagrein can be if you think it through to the end. No compromises. Three selected single vineyard sites, whose vines are almost a century old. Old vines yield little – but what they do yield is the sum of a long life in the grape flesh. Manual harvesting, destemming, slow maceration in steel – and then: 18 months exclusively in barrique, a third of which is new. No large wooden barrels, no compromises. Only barrique, only concentration, only depth.

Chardonnay Cuvée Bois - a white celebrated year after year with an elegant bouquet of citrus fruit, butter and vanilla. The flavour is captivating with good acidity and minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Petrignano is the name of a characteristic area with a soil rich in minerals and stones. At an altitude of around 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground that are typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the low growth of the vines result in an expressive and lush wine from this characteristic and authentic cru site.

Intense ruby red Vino Nobile Riserva with a spicy bouquet of aromas of dried fruit, cinnamon, cloves and liquorice. Smooth on the palate with a variety of nuances, beautiful fullness, structure and intensity, supple tannins. Very elegant pleasure at an excellent price. SUPERIORE.DE

Between 60,000 and 15,000 years BC, Mount Etna eroded its old centre – the Ellittico eruptive complex collapsed in on itself. What remains are some of the oldest surface soils on the volcano that can still be cultivated. Subsequent lava flows buried the older layers beneath them; only small, rare plots of the Ellittico survived on the surface. On the northern side of Mount Etna, there are three contrade with pure Ellittico terroir: Bocca d’Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo. Three out of hundreds. Calderara – the name evokes warmth. The stones here, fist-sized and light, a mixture of black pumice and basalt, absorb the sun’s heat during the day and slowly release it back into the soil during the cold nights. Without this invisible thermal balance, the ripening process at an altitude of 600 to 650 metres would be quite different. Don pep, who tended these vineyards for seventy years, found the most precise word to describe the wines from this site: ‘cremosi’. It’s true – and it couldn’t be put any better.

Castello Romitorio's 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a classic expression of the 5-star vintage in Montalcino (consortium rating), showing plenty of ripe fruit, minerality, herbal nuances and varietal purity. This wine hits the sweet spot between elegance and power, which is not easy to achieve. It offers a wide range of Sangiovese flavours with wild cherry, forest floor, crushed clove and medicinal herbs, but it also shows a plump density and a velvety texture. Filippo Chia and his team have created a highly attractive Brunello for medium to long drinking. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this fine white wine from the north side of Mount Etna come from the 3-hectare Contrada Muganazzi in the municipality of Passopisciaro. The skeleton-rich and pH-neutral soils are rich in iron and nitrogen and offer ideal conditions for fresh, acidic and mineral white wines. The wine is aged in equal parts in wood and stainless steel for 12 months on the fine lees. Muganazzi is neither a lean wine, nor is it too full-bodied. It is somewhere in between, with thick layers of peach, apricot and lots of fresh citrus fruit. The mineral notes such as gravel, flint and volcanic ash are very evident. An elegant, powerful Carricante with great drinking flow that clearly shows the signature of the sensitive Alberto Graci. SUPERIORE.DE

From the legendary San Guido estate, the cradle of Sassicaia, comes Le Difese, a wine that combines the essence of two worlds: the international class of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Tuscan soul of Sangiovese. Named after the golden boar tusks on the label – a symbol of the wild Maremma –this blend, first created in 2002, embodies the accessible side of an icon. After gentle hand-picking and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, Le Difese matures for twelve months in French and American barriques, followed by three months in the bottle.

An elegant, complex and supple Barbaresco. Shy in its youth, it develops its intense personality over the years.

The name says it all – and rarely has a wine deserved its name so consistently. Quartz: a mineral that was formed in fire, has survived for millions of years and is still visible today in Terlan's soils as a fine speckle in the volcanic porphyry rock. 55 to 60 per cent quartz content, slightly acidic pH value, skeleton-rich sandy-loamy structure without carbonate – a soil that allows water to pass through, rations nutrients and puts the vine under controlled stress. This micro-stress is not a deficiency. It is intentional. It forces the plant to produce terroir-specific polyphenols, which give the wine the savoury tension for which Terlan is internationally renowned.

Andrea Cortonesi's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 shows its best side right from the start; it is a Brunello of broodingbeauty, intensity and complexity. The nose is characterised by a generous dose of primary fruit, primarily cherry and blackberry. This is complemented by wonderfully balanced secondary flavours from the oak, reminiscent of spices, cinnamon and dark smoke. On the palate, it explodes from the starting line and delivers a steady pace throughout. Subtle notes of spice and barbecue smoke add further facets to the impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for one of the most elegant and ethereal Vin Santo in Chianti Classico are dried before they are pressed and then sealed in barrels for nine years. Paolo de Marchi calls it "lazy winemaking" and admits: "The blending process is actually the most challenging part, as every barrel is different and after tasting 10 barrels, palate fatigue sets in". The result is a very elegant and pure Vin Santo that has beguiling notes of candied fruit, honey and sweet spices. The balance between sweetness and acidity keeps the wine light, lively and refreshing, and it has a smoky edge on the finish. This is a great Vin Santo, and although it has more than 200g/litre of residual sugar, it is surprisingly light, refreshing and easy to drink. SUPERIORE.DE

Villa di Capezzana has been the Tenuta's flagship since 1925 and is a living testimony to Tuscan wine culture. This Carmignano DOCG epitomises the vision of the Contini Bonacossi family, who for five generations have been cultivating the heritage of a wine estate whose first documented mention dates back to 804. In 1975, Carmignano was the first Tuscan DOC zone ever to officially include Cabernet Sauvignon in the assemblage – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The tradition goes back to the 16th century, when Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux.

Altare's Barolo is a Barolo of the four cardinal directions. Not geographically, but in terms of character: from La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and the municipality of Barolo, a wine emerges that does not let any single vineyard site take centre stage, but rather lets them all speak at once. A map of the entire appellation in 10,000 bottles. What gives each vintage a different character is the climate. 2022 was hot, dry and concentrated in the Langhe – a year that Parker ranked among the most extraordinary of the last decade. The vines were under stress; the grapes ripened early and fully; and the extraction from 4 to 5 days in rotary fermenters yielded denser fruit and softer tannins than in a cooler year. Twenty-four months in used French barriques gave the wine structure and complexity without overshadowing the warmth of the vintage.

The label features a delicate illustration of a wild boar hunt: a pack of hounds is attacking, whilst the wild boar stands its ground. Le Difese – is the precise Italian term for the boar’s tusks, those fangs with which it defends itself as a last resort. A fitting image for a wine that is Tenuta San Guido’s most approachable – yet does not compromise on character. Le Difese is the estate’s only wine to feature an indigenous Tuscan variety: Sangiovese from the Chianti-Rufina area, combined with Cabernet Sauvignon from the vineyards of Tenuta San Guido. Two Tuscan souls in a single cuvée – the international variety and the indigenous one. Fermentation in stainless steel, malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, followed by four months in used French and American oak barriques. Six months in bottle. Fresh, direct, approachable.

Since the first bottling in 2004, this wine has embodied the purest and most direct interpretation of Bolgheri à la Le Macchiole - a Rosso of grace and intensity, easy to drink without compromising on structure and complexity. The historic winery, founded in 1983 by Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli as pioneers of the region, has distilled its understanding of terroir with this Bordeaux blend of 40% Merlot, 20% each of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The challenging 2023 vintage with its changeable summer demanded precise decisions during the harvest – a test that Le Macchiole's experienced team under Cinzia Merli passed with flying colours. 15 days of maceration in steel, followed by 10 months of ageing, 70% in used barriques and 30% in concrete, give the wine its characteristic balance.

In the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of the Antinori brothers' ambitious project. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boar burrow in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, supplemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is an intense purple-red colour with violet reflections.

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

From the oldest Merlot parcel in the Le Sondraie vineyards comes Bell'Aja's flagship wine – a wine that impressively demonstrates the ambition of the San Felice project in Bolgheri. Since 2016, this Tenuta has completed the Tuscan wine interpretation of the historic group: from the hills of Chianti Classico to the prestigious vineyards of Montalcino to this radiant jewel on the Etruscan Coast. Bell'Aja Superiore embodies the pure essence of a unique terroir: 95% Merlot from the Tenuta's most venerable vines is combined with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to create a wine of impressive power and opulence. The sandy-loamy soils of the Le Sondraie zone, just five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, give this Bordeaux-inspired blend the maritime minerality that makes Bolgheri one of the most fascinating terroirs in the wine world.

North-west of Montalcino, where the hills become wilder and shadier and the view extends towards the Maremma, lies Castello Romitorio in a secluded location that lives up to the name of the estate. Romitorio – hermitage. When Sandro Chia acquired the dilapidated castle in 1984, it had been uninhabited for decades, most recently a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. He paved it with art and planted the slopes with old Sangiovese clones – without knowing what speciality this north-western microclimate strip would one day bring to the bottle. The vineyards receive less direct sunlight than the southern slopes, the temperatures are cooler and ripening is later – conditions that give the Sangiovese elegance rather than vigour.

Poggio Valente comes from a single vineyard of the same name at an altitude of around 300 metres. Opulent floral and small-fruited Sangiovese nose with optimally nuanced hints of tobacco, cedar and mint. Precise on the palate with plenty of pressure and power, then towards the end the furious resolution of all the well-dosed components in a fine, silky texture and an unforgettable, long final. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from family-owned plots in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte and Mosconi. Each vineyard is harvested separately by hand and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration times with gentle remontages ensure a fine, complete extraction. For ageing, the winery predominantly uses large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), supplemented by a smaller proportion of French oak, which adds lustre to the texture without masking the origin. Thanks to a stable summer and cool nights in autumn, 2020 produced ripe, healthy harvestwith a clear acidity line and precise aromas.