Chardonnay

In 1985, Chardonnay was a provocation in Sicily. The lemon trees around Menfi were worth so little that it was hardly worth harvesting them. Diego Planeta had them uprooted – and planted Chardonnay on four hectares on the shores of Lago Arancio. What many thought was escapism was method: Diego knew that the island was capable of more than its reputation at the time suggested. Four years later, Carlo Corino from Piedmont, one of Italy's best Chardonnay specialists, arrived and helped to sharpen the wine's identity. The first vines from those years are still standing. Today, they are the starting point for Didacus – a tribute by the next generation to the patriarch whose Latin name it bears. Hand-picked from the best grapes from the historic vineyard, they are fermented and matured in barriques from the forests of Nevers, Vosges and Allier. Ten months – not a day more than necessary.

Now in its 30th vintage, it has long been an icon of modern Sicilian winemaking: Planeta's Chardonnay combines the French tradition of grape varieties with the sun-drenched terroir of the south, producing, year after year, one of Italy's most distinctive white wines. The grapes come from two different altitudes: Ulmo at 250 m and Maroccoli at 415 m above sea level. In the glass, it is a radiant golden yellow with slightly greenish highlights. The aroma is intense and refined: yellow tropical fruits, toasted almonds, citrus blossom, vanilla, wet stone and a hint of salty butter. On the palate, it is dense and full-bodied, with ripe fruit, a perfect balance between freshness and creaminess, subtle spice and a long, elegant finish. A cult wine that combines Mediterranean richness with Burgundian nobility. Ideal with lobster, pan-fried fish, poultry in a butter sauce, or even on its own as a great white wine with real character. SUPERIORE.DE

The famous Castello della Sala stands on a hill above Orvieto – a medieval stronghold, surrounded by woodland and olive groves, deep in the tranquillity of Umbria. The Marchesi Antinori have owned it for generations; but what made it a wine legend was the first Cervaro della Sala in 1985: a white wine conceived like a red – barrique fermentation, malolactic fermentation, and a long ageing process. Producing a white wine capable of ageing for decades was by no means a matter of course in Italy at that time. But it became one. The winemaking process follows a principle once formulated by Renzo Cotarella and which still applies today: as little intervention as possible. The Castello's winery operates using gravity – no mechanical pumps, no unnecessary stress on the grapes. The harvest begins in the early hours of the morning, when temperatures are still cool. The Chardonnay macerates on its skins for four hours at 10 degrees, then ferments in barriques and matures with partial malolactic fermentation. The Grechetto remains exclusively in steel – it brings the tension that the Chardonnay alone cannot provide. In February, the two are blended together.

Perlé Zero is a purist Trento Doc, which is concentrated on the essentials without any dosage. It embodies the essence of Chardonnay from the foothills of the Alps like no other sparkling wine in Trentino. Refined perlage with golden, luminous reflections. Clean, straightforward aroma of grapefruit, ginger and fresh pineapple, with hints of cumin and delicate herbs as it progresses. Dry, racy mouthfeel, very precise, then opens up with a fine spectrum of aromas, leading into a never-ending finish. The essence of a dry noble spumante and great Ferrari cinema from the first to the last glass! SUPERIORE.DE

His father's name was Pin. His mother's was Lidia. When Giuseppe Rivetti began growing grapes in the hills of Asti in the 1970s, he and Lidia instilled in their four children – Carlo, Bruno, Giorgio and Giovanna, a conviction that still defines the estate's character today: a deep respect for the terroir, for the indigenous grape varieties and for what the earth provides. In 1977, the children, supported by their parents, produced the first single-vineyard Moscato d'Asti – the very first single-varietal, single-vineyard Moscatos in Italy. They honoured their father with the Pin, the Monferrato Rosso. And their mother was honoured with the Chardonnay.

Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, who runs the estate together with her husband Michael, gave her name to this Chardonnay. A wine that combines elegance with determination, finesse with power. Half the grapes come from one of two contrasting worlds: Terlan Lieben Aich at 300 metres, facing west, where loamy sandy soil on volcanic porphyry nourishes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And Kaltern Mazzon – Manincor's steepest vineyard, the 'Leiten' with gradients of up to 100 per cent. Here, Chardonnay and Viognier are rooted at altitudes of between 350 and 400 metres in calcareous loess-loam, facing south-west towards the light. Two soils, two microclimates, one vision. The destemmed berries macerate for four hours in the press – longer than for the Eichhorn, shorter than for the Sauvignons. Finesse is the guiding principle; the pressing process is slow and meticulous. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels of various sizes, followed by nine months' ageing on the fine lees. Here, the aroma and structure develop into the density that characterises Sophie.

Now in its 30th vintage, it has long been an icon of modern Sicilian winemaking: Planeta's Chardonnay combines the French tradition of grape varieties with the sun-drenched terroir of the south, producing, year after year, one of Italy's most distinctive white wines. The grapes come from two different altitudes: Ulmo at 250 m and Maroccoli at 415 m above sea level. In the glass, it is a radiant golden yellow with slightly greenish highlights. The nose is intense and refined: yellow tropical fruits, toasted almonds, citrus blossom, vanilla, wet stone and a hint of salty butter. On the palate, it is dense and full-bodied, with ripe fruit, a perfect balance between freshness and creaminess, subtle spice and a long, elegant finish. A cult wine that combines Mediterranean richness with Burgundian nobility. Ideal with lobster, pan-fried fish, poultry in butter sauce, or even on its own as a great white wine with real character. SUPERIORE.DE

Troy – in the language of the South Tyrolean ancestors, it means ‘path’ – the path that Cantina Tramin has followed over decades to create one of Italy’s most exceptional Chardonnays. A path of exploration, experimentation and patience. For complex Chardonnays from high-altitude Alpine vineyards are a rarity – and that is precisely where the appeal lies; that is precisely where the challenge begins. At altitudes of 500 to 550 metres, where the Mediterranean heat of the day and cold downdrafts from the mountains clash in stark contrast, 25-year-old Chardonnay vines take root in calcareous gravel and loam over porphyry. South-east-facing slopes, Guyot and pergola training systems, just 38 hectolitres per hectare – each berry is inspected individually during the hand-harvest in October. This is followed by whole-bunch pressing: the grapes are gently pressed together with their stems and stalks, an archaic method that lends structure and depth. Both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation take place in French barriques. The wine rests on its fine lees in the wood for eleven months before being transferred to small stainless-steel tanks, where it spends a further 22 months on the lees – a total of 33 months’ ageing, before four months’ bottle ageing completes the process.

Now a modern classic among the white Langhe wines, which carries history and at the same time whets the appetite for the future: Rossj-Bass was created in 1988, named after Rossana (Rossj), Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter, and also refers to one of the two original parcels of land – bass, in Piedmontese for the lower vineyard. Over the years, the socialisation of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in historically important cru sites in Barbaresco, Treiso and Serralunga created a stylistic signature with a clear identity.

It was a provocation. When Paolo De Marchi began planting Chardonnay on the hills of San Donato in Poggio in the late 1970s, the response from the Chianti Classico region was unequivocal: that wasn't what they did here. This is Sangiovese country. An obsession with international grape varieties. Paolo planted it anyway – on six hectares that hardly anyone would have considered suitable for Chardonnay: north-facing, at over 400 metres, completely surrounded by woodland, on soils of limestone, marl and galestro that have defined Chianti Classico for its red wines.

Now a modern classic among the white Langhe wines, which carries history and at the same time whets the appetite for the future: Rossj-Bass was created in 1988, named after Rossana (Rossj), Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter, and also refers to one of the two original parcels of land – bass, in Piedmontese for the lower vineyard. Over the years, the socialisation of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in historically important cru sites in Barbaresco, Treiso and Serralunga created a stylistic signature with a clear identity.

The grapes for this top Chardonnay come from clayey limestone soils interspersed with angular white dolomite rock. Intense straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. The aroma is complex, characterised by exotic fruit, white pepper and a delicate spicy note. Voluminous, enveloping and engaging on the palate, with a powerful structure and a juicy, very harmonious acidity. The final is almost endless, a very great Chardonnay from South Tyrol. SUPERIORE.DE

Chardonnay Vigna San Francesco is luxurious and rich as it moves along the lines of sophistication: ginger spice, crushed oyster shells, Italian buttercream and citrus fruits make up its seductive bouquet. On the palate, it conveys a sense of opulence but also harmony, combining a silky, medium-bodied texture with mineral fruits and pretty floral nuances. An interplay of sweet and sour that lasts until the final, while savoury green citrus fruits and a hint of Granny Smith apple slowly fade away. A wonderful Sicilian Chardonnay that perfectly combines the sophistication of the international grape variety with the charm of the Mediterranean climate. SUPERIORE.DE

You can tell from this white masterpiece that Giulia Negri spent some time in Burgundy, where she gained the tools for her still very young, but stellar career as a winemaker. What's more, this Chardonnay in no way denies the characteristics of the Langhe. The long maturation in small tonneaux on the fine lees and excellent grapes from up to 500 metres above sea level are the recipe for a taut, fresh and incredibly elegant white.

Chardonnay in the Maremma – that sounds like a bad idea. The sun is too strong, the summer too long, the heat too Mediterranean. And yet: Georg Weber has taken up this challenge. Not because he had to, but because he loves Chardonnay – the great white Burgundy wines, their texture, their complexity, their ability to express a place rather than mask it. Capalbio is one of the very few places on the Tuscan coast where this gamble pays off: 30 to 80 metres above sea level, five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, clay-limestone with eroded stones, constant sea breezes, cool nights. Each plot is vinified separately – because Weber believes that the terroir should have the final say, not the cellar. Whole-bunch pressing, natural fermentation, ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, using gravity exclusively throughout the entire process. Matured in French barriques and oval concrete tanks – a combination that gives the Chardonnay structure and depth without weighing it down. Around 5,000 bottles. The terroir allows for no more.

From deep moraine soil with a high salt and limestone content, Vigna Au first opens with flint and walnut and then beguiles with a complex bouquet of yellow, exotic fruits. Intense, juicy, with just the right amount of acidity, it has a maturation potential of at least 15 years. Just 2,000 bottles of this exceptional Chardonnay are bottled each year. SUPERIORE.DE

From broodingmoraine soil with a high salt and limestone content, Vigna Au first opens with flint and walnut and then beguiles with a complex bouquet of yellow, exotic fruits. Intense, juicy, with just the right amount of acidity, it has a maturation potential of at least 15 years. Just 2,000 bottles of this exceptional Chardonnay are bottled each year. SUPERIORE.DE

"Pio di lei", for the ladies. A name that pays homage to the strong women of the Pio Cesare family. When Pio Boffa planted the first Chardonnay vines in 1981, it was a revolutionary act in the Langhe. Here, in the realm of Nebbiolo, where Barolo and Barbaresco have reigned supreme for centuries, growing a French white wine bordered on heresy. But Pio had a vision: to create a white wine that possessed the body, complexity and ageing potential of the great reds. The first vintage was released in 1985. Today, almost four decades later, his daughter Federica is carrying on the legacy and proving that the women of this family are not merely the namesakes, but the architects.

Monteverro's Chardonnay is an exciting and multi-faceted expression of Tuscan white wine culture and combines Burgundian finesse with the radiance of the Maremma. The grapes come from carefully tended plots on limestone and clay near Capalbio, where the coastal microclimate with warm days and cool nights offers the Chardonnay an ideal ripening window. The vinification was carried out with Burgundian standards: slow fermentation in French barriques – partly new, partly used –regular bâtonnage and a fine lees ageing period of around ten months.

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.

South Tyrol's Chardonnay legend writes another chapter. Since 1994, the Löwengang has characterised the perception of Alpine white wine excellence like no other. The historic estate above Margreids holds a secret: Chardonnay vines, whose roots reach up to five decades deep into the South Tyrolean soil, thrive on barren limestone soils between 230 and 330 metres. The warm microclimate with its nightly drops in temperature produces grapes of concentrated minerality. The Lageder family gives this terroir free rein. Organic farming without compromise, spontaneous fermentation in hand-picked barriques from the Tronçais and Vosges forests. One third new wood lends structure, while eleven months on the lees give the wine its silky texture. A further twelve months of ageing in the cellar bring the final harmony.

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.

Rich straw yellow colour, rich, complex aroma with a delicate, pleasantly creamy nose and the scent of citrus and pineapple, on the other hand lots of structured spice and a hint of vanilla. The winery's white flagship brings its primary fruit to the fore with impressive intensity, but it also offers plenty of exciting complexity in a second wave of subtle flavours that testify to extreme care and precision in winemaking. The lingering finish is refined with a subtle hint of bitter almond. SUPERIORE.DE