Barbera

At Pelissero, "Tulin" not only stands for a vineyard, but also for a claim. The extremely rare Barbera from this parcel is not a by-product of the Nebbiolo-heavy winery, but an independent, uncompromisingly sophisticated interpretation of the Barbera grape variety. In a year like 2021, which united structure, freshness and concentration in a rare balance, this wine reaches a level that sets it apart from the crowd - and clearly places it in the rank of an exceptional wine. The vines grow on calcareous marl with blue clay - a constellation that combines maturity with tension. The yields are low, the selection strict. Tulin is matured for around 18 months in French barriques, with the necessary time and care to get the best out of the grape variety - not more fruit, not more wood, but more depth and complexity.

In the 1970s, Elio Altare travelled to Burgundy and returned a changed man. He had seen what short macerations and small oak barrels could do for Pinot Noir: wines of elegance and approachability that challenged the long, tannin-rich traditions of his homeland. He brought the idea to the Langhe. And because his father was unwilling to part with the large old wooden casks, Altare is said to have sawn them up himself to make room for the barriques. His father subsequently disinherited him. But Elio carried on.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

The extremely complex Barbera d'Asti La Crena comes from vines up to 90 years old in the heart of the Nizza Monferrato region and smells of ripe red fruits, hay and pastries. The full-bodied, warm taste lingers long with plenty of dark fruit, well-proportioned acidity and fine cocoa tones. SUPERIORE.DE

Every year, La Crena is one of the best and most refined Barbera wines that Piedmont produces. The vines in the Vigna del Nove parcel date back to the 1930s. This vintage will also need many years to develop its full expressiveness, but that's the way it is and we love this crazy development potential so much. La Crena is creamy and rich in the glass, dense, very concentrated with an abundance of layers of fruit that only develop fully with further years of ageing and make for an energetic, exciting wine. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine with origin and signature: The grapes come from the renowned Scarrone vineyard directly below Castiglione Falletto – a warm south-east exposure with calcareous marl soils. Vietti cultivates the vineyard organically and vinifies the Vigna Scarrone with respect for the grape variety and terroir. Temperature-controlled maceration is followed by ageing in large barrels and used barriques – an approach that promotes both structure and elegance.

Roccanivo is the hill in Casalotto where it all began for the Berta family – a home and a piece of history rolled into one. Paolo Berta, who founded the distillery in 1947, opened a cask in 1998 in front of his children, a cask that had been ageing grappa for a long time. The house describes what emerged as revolutionary: amber-coloured, dense and fragrant, scarcely comparable to other grappas; it smelled of years of ageing and meticulous care. Roccanivo was born – the first Selezione Riserva – and others were to follow. The grape variety behind it is Barbera, robust and hardy, a variety that does not succumb to cold or adversity. Its pomace is distilled in batches in a steam-heated copper still and then aged for 8 years in casks made of mixed woods with varying degrees of toasting.

A Barbera with a closed gaze – as if you were looking into a dark, purple-red depth from which concentrated essences rise. Scarrone Vigna Vecchia comes from vines that are decades old – partly planted around 1918 – in the Scarrone vineyard near Castiglione Falletto. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around 16 months of ageing in predominantly French barriques (proportion new), where intelligent use of wood subtly helps the terroir. The 2021 vintage brought full maturity, dense fruit and clear acidity – the best prerequisites for an expressive but elegant Barbera with Storage potential.

The wine comes from a single, gently sloping vineyard above Rocchetta Tanaro, called Bricco dell'Uccellone, named after an elderly local woman who always kept a sharp eye on the vineyards, dressed in black. Here, old vines grow on barren, chalky soils that produce low yields but highly concentrated harvest. With tireless dedication, the Bologna family fulfils the legacy of Giacomo Bologna, who is rightly described as the father of modern Barbera d'Asti. 2021 began with a cool spring, followed by a warm, stable summer that ensured slow, even ripening. The grapes were hand-picked in perfect condition, followed by a long maceration and 12 months of ageing in French barriques.

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

A rare and very limited-production wine that is more than just a Barbera: it is a living monument. The vines come from a tiny plot in the hamlet of Berri near La Morra, which was planted before the phylloxera epidemic (prefilossera) and survived it – ungrafted, without rootstock, a rare treasure that is now almost unique in Italy. The sandy-limestone soils and the southerly aspect give these grapes an intensity and clarity that is unmatched by any younger vineyard.

The wine comes from a single, gently sloping vineyard above Rocchetta Tanaro, known as Bricco dell'Uccellone, a name derived from an elderly local woman who, always dressed in black and with a keen eye, kept a watchful eye on the vineyards. Here, old vines grow on barren, chalky soils that yield low harvests but produce highly concentrated harvest. With tireless dedication, the Bologna family carries on the legacy of Giacomo Bologna, who is rightly regarded as the father of modern Barbera d'Asti. Hand-harvested, followed by a long maceration and 12 months' ageing in French barriques.

The Bricco della Bigotta comes from the single vineyard of the same name and owes its name to a former resident whose strict piety became proverbial in the village. The old vines stand on a hill not far from Rocchetta Tanaro, in soils of limestone, marl and clay, which give the variety a distinctive structure. The 2020 vintage was characterised by a balanced vegetation cycle: mild spring days, a warm summer without extreme heat and cool nights in late summer, which gave the grapes freshness and aromatic depth. After selective manual harvesting, a long maceration followed by 12 months of ageing in French barriques.

If you want to find out what the most popular grape variety in Piedmont is capable of, you should try this exceptional Barbera from Roberto Voerzio, which is only available in magnum bottles. Just 400 grams of concentrated grapes are harvested per plant. After vinification, the wine matures for 30 months in large oak barrels.