wines

The "Ca' Guicciardi" vineyard takes its name from the farmhouse that lies at its centre. The single vineyard is characterised by small, very steep valleys. Impressive rock faces alternate with terraces supported by some of the highest dry stone walls in Valtellina. The special colour of the rock, which tends towards a quartz-like white, considerably enhances the power of the sun and leads to higher temperatures and more light here than in other parts of the valley.

The grapes for Prunotto's highly attractive Barbaresco come from long-standing contract plots in Treiso and Neive. The grapes are harvested selectively by hand, the lots are destemmed separately and fermented in stainless steel; the maceration time is around eight days at controlled temperatures. Malolactic fermentation is completed before winter. The wine matures for around a year in large oak barrels of various sizes – deliberately designed for balance, texture and expression of origin.

Juvelo is the crown jewel of Andrian. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – while others have long since harvested their grapes, here a few Gewürztraminer vines are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes hang on the vine until they are clearly covered in noble mould. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the grape skin and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are picked by hand, berry by berry. There is no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months of ageing in barriques, time that this wine needs to develop its complexity.

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard on the southern slope of Etna at an altitude of around 950 metres. It is the most balanced and at the same time most exciting of all Etna Bianco from Terre Nere in terms of its overall impression and flavour; the whole Etna package is present here in exactly the right dose: Minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and fine, with an almost Burgundian dimension, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

At the Wangger farm in Leitach, where moraine debris and sandy alluvial soil characterise the south-eastern slopes between 260 and 300 metres, Lagrein grows on the kind of soil that turns strength into stability. Here, in the classic growing area near Bolzano, where the indigenous variety has found its deepest expression for generations, Hans Terzer hand-selects the grapes that have the potential to age for more than a decade. Twelve months in barriques, then the assemblage – only when the true architecture of the wine is revealed. A further six months in large oak barrels to complete the harmony.

A wine that embraces place and grape variety with excellence: Barrile represents the essence of the ancient Sardinian Nieddera grape – precise, darkly fruity and with structured substance. Grown in the Tirso valley and on the wild Sinis peninsula, the grapes ripen on sandy, clayey soil, blown by the salty south-westerly wind. A powerful statement follows the manual harvest: 12 months of ageing in new and used barriques form a monumental Riserva that, despite all its concentration, always remains down to earth.

Sometimes a great vintage needs a little scare first. In April 2021, the thermometer dropped to minus seven degrees in parts of Montalcino – late frost, which hit the more sensitive sites and reduced the harvest to around 15 per cent below the previous year. What was a loss for some farms proved to be a gift for quality. Fewer grapes, more concentration. The surviving vines seemed to know what was at stake. The rest of the year followed the textbook pattern of classic Brunello meteorology: regular spring, hot and dry summer – then two decisive rain events in the second half of August, which gave the vineyards water and the grapes their final aromatic complexity. The September nights cooled the Sant'Angelo vineyard in Colle to temperatures that distinguish phenolic ripeness from genuine elegance. Harvest did not start until mid to late September – patiently waited, fully redeemed.

Before individual vineyards became a currency, Barolo was an idea. An idea that combined different soils, different slopes, different communities into one whole – and created a complexity that no single vineyard could achieve on its own. Davide Rosso sticks to this idea. His Barolo DOCG combines grapes from three municipalities in equal parts: Serralunga d'Alba with its hard limestone marls and uncompromising tannin structure, Castiglione Falletto with somewhat lighter, sandy soils and a natural aromatic suppleness, and the commune of Barolo itself, whose Tortonian soils lend the Nebbiolo a floral, accessible side.

Doran is no accident. This wine demonstrates what happens when French Chardonnay clones meet South Tyrolean limestone soils. The Andrian Winery takes exactly the time this Riserva needs: twelve months in tonneaux, 30 per cent of which are new French oak barrels. This is the Burgundian school in its purest form. The grapes come from the highest vineyards around Andrian, at altitudes of between 350 and 450 metres. There, the calcareous loam soil is interspersed with white dolomite rock. The microclimate makes all the difference: cooler temperatures than elsewhere, a longer ripening period, and higher acidity. Perfect for a Chardonnay with ambition. Cellar master Rudi Kofler opts for full fermentation in wood. Regular bâtonnage ensures that the oak integrates elegantly, without ever becoming overpowering. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for a further three months in stainless steel – to achieve the final balance between opulence and freshness.

Anyone looking for the hardest terroir in the Barolo zone will inevitably end up in Serralunga d'Alba. The whitish limestone marl soils of the Helvetian formation – compacted, rich in minerals, barren – give the Nebbiolo here a rigour that is not found elsewhere in the Langhe. No flattery, no quick opening. Instead: structure, depth, staying power. The Rosso family has been cultivating these soils for over a century. For the Barolo del Comune, Davide Rosso draws from four parcels that cover the entire breadth of the municipality: Costa Bella in the northern part, south-facing; Broglio, sandy and east-facing in the heart of Serralunga; Sorano, clay-rich, also east-facing; and Meriame, limestone-rich, a more recent acquisition. No single site dominates, the goal is a wine that represents Serralunga as a whole, not just one facet. Hand-picked in mid-October, spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks for 25 days with daily pumping over and a délestage at half-time. Maturation in 50-hectolitre French oak barrels for 18 to 36 months, depending on the origin of the grapes. Bottled without filtration.

Smells intensely of redcurrants and black cherries, leather, spices and liquorice. Lush and flowing on the palate, all elements merge into a great, striking wine. Great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Nero Revei, which means clock in the local dialect, is linked to the history of the medieval tower that dominates the vineyard in Aymavilles. The tower was once home to a reclusive clockmaker, whose profession brought back the theme of time and its value in nature and for mankind.

The captivating Lumen is the elegant and more international answer to the power of Montepulciano: a cuvée of Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on clay and limestone soils around Controguerra. The 2017 vintage was quite hot and dry and produced concentrated, dense grapes with ripe fruit. After fermentation, the wine matured for around 18 months in French barriques. Dark ruby colour with violet reflections in the glass. Blackcurrant, Amarena cherry, cocoa, tobacco and a fine woody spice on the nose. Powerful and polished on the palate, with a dense texture, ripe berry fruit and a balsamic finish. Smooth tannin structure. Stylistically more modern than the Zanna, Lumen convinces with depth, freshness and a finesse-rich, long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Donnafugata's "Dolce & Gabbana" Limited Edition represents the collaboration between two iconic brands that are recognised beyond the country's borders as ambassadors of Sicilian culture and Italian excellence. The joint commitment of these two companies to elegance, craftsmanship and creativity brilliantly reinterprets this historic cuvée of the winery. To mark the occasion, Tancredi has been given an exclusive Dolce & Gabbana label since the 2018 vintage, with an aesthetic that pays homage to both Italy's baroque-aristocratic tradition and the revolutionary values that emerged in Sicily after the country's unification. This noble Sicilian is made mainly from Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter enriching the aroma spectrum with a subtle minty facet. In addition, the bouquet is refined by sweet mineral graphite, tones of liquorice, cocoa, sour cherries and blueberries. The excellent, broad and enveloping flavour structure is confirmed in the final of considerable length. SUPERIORE.DE

Sotto Casa – in the truest sense of the word: the single vineyard of the same name lies directly next to the winery, on stony alluvial soil – the most intimate vineyard on the entire estate and the only one from which Boscarelli combines international grape varieties with Prugnolo Gentile. Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and a tannic frame, a small proportion of Merlot gives fullness and softness – sangiovese remains the soul. The three varieties are harvested separately, fermented separately – in oak vats with natural yeasts for around 10 days at controlled temperatures. Each cuvée then matures separately in Slavonia and Allier oak between 3 and 30 hectolitres, depending on the varietal character. Blending only takes place at the end of the 28 to 32 months of maturation.

Fresh, vibrant and full of energy, Geremia 2019 is highly entertaining and lively. Its flavours are remarkably intense, yet it also has a certain lightness that keeps it balanced and brilliant with every sip. Crushed stones, menthol, liquorice, sage and gravel envelop its core of blue and violet fruits, the tannins are well-built and it convinces not least with its beautiful length. Geremia always has something magical about it and its special personality makes it one of the most remarkable red wines from the Chianti Classico region for us every year. SUPERIORE.DE

Geremia founded the Ricasoli family in the 7th or 8th century – at a time when Chianti was not yet a wine name, but a battleground between rival noble families. Today, his descendant Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi runs the same estate, on the same land, in Gaiole in Chianti. And he gave this wine the name of his ancestor. This is piquant in that the Geremia is not a Sangiovese. Marco planted Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon on 2.5 hectares of his hills in 1997 – consciously, curiously, with a clear question: what does this terroir say in another language? The chalky-clay soils between 340 and 510 metres, the south-southeast exposure, the microclimate between Florence and Siena – everything that characterises Sangiovese is also available to the Bordeaux varieties here. Hand-picked in baskets, fermentation in temperature-controlled tanks, 24 months in medium-roasted Allier barriques, bottled unfiltered, 18 months bottle ageing. Certified organic.

The name Pin honours Giuseppe "Pin" Rivetti, the paternal driving force behind this family and founder of La Spinetta. His Rosso Monferrato is more than just a cuvée – it is a personal legacy made from 65% Nebbiolo (from aged vines from Castagnole Lanze/Neive) and 35% Barbera d'Asti (Bionzo parcel). Each grape variety was vinified separately – fermentation on the skins for around 7-8 days in rotary fermenters at a controlled temperature, followed by malolactic fermentation in French wood. Ageing took place for 16-18 months in used, medium-toasted barriques before the two components matured in stainless steel tanks for a further two months, followed by 15 months of bottle ageing without filtration.

The 2019 vintage leaves no doubt about its origin from a top vintage in Montalcino. The fruit for Poggio Landis Brunello is harvested at altitudes of 200 to 300 metres above sea level. Interesting aromas of wild cherry, plum and crushed flowers. Taut, polished yet traditional character on the palate. It fits perfectly into the house style, which favours an elegant and less extract-rich approach. A highly sophisticated charmer across the board. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1398, Ser Lapo Mazzei wrote a letter in which the word "Chianti" is used in the modern sense of wine for the first time. The oldest document of its kind. The family that wrote this letter is still making wine today – for more than 600 years, now in its seventeenth generation. When a family dynasty of this depth comes to the Maremma in 1997 and decides to grow its most important wine on the sandy soils between Grosseto and Montiano, it is a vote of confidence in a terroir. The philosophy is clearly formulated: Tenuta Belguardo only releases in the best vintages. No compromises. Since the first vintage in 2000, this attitude has defined the positioning of the cru: not quantity, but statement. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon from parcels with the highest proportion of sandstone and skeleton, which demand from the Cabernet a balance between natural power and elegance that would not be achieved on heavier soil. 15% Cabernet Franc is the perfect counterpart: structured, herbal, characterised by freshness even in hot vintages.

There are wines that you don't find every year. Raccaro's Merlot belongs to this rare species – produced only when the vintage allows it, and even then in homeopathic quantities. "Da sempre presente nel vigneto aziendale", as the family says: always in the vineyard, but never in the bottle as a matter of course. This Merlot is not a concession to international trends, but part of the history of these slopes on Monte Quarin, where the grape variety develops a depth on the fossilised marl layers of the Ponca that is reminiscent of the great Merlot interpretations of Friuli. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 90 metres, north-south orientation, 5,000 vines per hectare in the Guyot system. Old vines, low yields, late harvest – the prerequisites for concentration. The vinification follows a clear line: twelve days of maceration at a controlled 25 to 28 degrees to extract structure and depth without overtaxing the fruit. This is followed by 15 months in small French wooden barrels, where the wine gains complexity and learns to tame its youthful vigour.

Ricasoli's Vin Santo is the sublime interpretation of one of the historic grape varieties of Chianti Classico, the Malvasia del Chianti, and at the same time a masterpiece of centuries-old Tuscan craftsmanship. Here, the 880-year-old winemaking tradition of the Ricasoli family merges with the mystical art of passito making to create a wine of rare nobility. The grapes come from vines over forty years old on well-drained alluvial soils at an altitude of 200 metres with southern exposure. At the beginning of October, at the end of the harvest, the Malvasia grapes are hand-picked together with small quantities of Trebbiano and Sangiovese grapes with an optimum sugar content and perfect flavour concentration. Only the best, loose-berried grapes with sparse berries are transported in 18-kilogramme crates to specially ventilated chambers at Castello di Brolio. This is where the magic of time begins: the grapes hang to dry for three months while the water content slowly dwindles and the flavours concentrate. The must from the gentle pressing then ferments for months - a process that takes years and requires the utmost patience. The young wine then matures for nine years in oak caratelli of various sizes, where it develops its characteristic amber colour and complex aromas.

In 1782, a document recorded what the monks in Sirmione had long known: that this spot on the southern Garda was something special. "A house with a cellar in Lugana, known as the place of the monks" – says the sober note that now bears the name of the winery. Cà dei Frati, the house of the brothers. When Felice Dal Cero took over the estate in 1939, he recognised the same truth as the monks before him: the Turbiana grape, the white stubbornness of Lake Garda, feels at home here. His son Pietro brought out the first bottle under his own label – and helped to create the Lugana DOC in 1969. The house and the denomination: inseparable.

Phileo is the Greek word for love, for affection, for sincerity in a relationship. Franz Pratzner did not choose this name by chance. He derived it from Filomena – his mother, the woman who shaped, moulded and lived the Falkenstein estate for decades. A wine as homage – it could hardly be more personal. The Phileo vines are planted on the Falkenstein vineyard itself, at 650 metres, south-facing, on a soil of gneiss, granite and slate – one of the most mineral-rich soils in the entire Vinschgau Sonnenberg. 9,000 vines per hectare, Guyot training, one kilogramme per vine. Maximum density, minimum quantity. What the vines achieve in this barren landscape is brought to the glass through malolactic fermentation and the targeted, restrained use of wood – creamy, structured, with a long ageing potential.