wines

Monogramma is an approach: we wait. Whilst standard Traminer is harvested at the usual stage of ripeness, Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri leave their best plots on the vine for a further 10 to 12 days. What happens during this time is not overripeness – ; it is a concentration, a densification of the aromas, a slow transformation of fresh fruit into something more complex. Gewürztraminer is, in any case, one of the most expressive grape varieties in the world. Normally: rose, peach, lychee, elderflower – — explosive, direct, immediate. In the Spätlese selection from the plots in Faedo/Coveli (300 m) and Cembra (450 m), an additional dimension emerges: tropical fruit, spices, a deep, rich texture that the wine develops through the late harvest. The house method remains the same: washing the grapes, pressing in a controlled atmosphere without oxygen. What ends up in the glass is solely a reflection of the place and the time.

The name says it all: Badilante honours those workers who, with their spades – the "badili" – for generations to drain and reclaim the marshland of the Maremma. Simone Castelli, son of the legendary OenologistMaurizio, vinifies this single-varietal Sangiovese on the organically farmed Podere 414 vineyard near Scansano. The grapes grow at an altitude of 230 metres in clayey, loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Spontaneous fermentation in cement, 15–18 days maceration with délestage and remontage, followed by maturation partly in cement and partly in wood.

The oldest documents in the family archive date back to the middle of the 16th century. In 1967, Lisini was one of the 24 founding members of the Brunello Consortium. One of the oldest and most enduring houses in the appellation – and one of the most stylistically independent, because Sant'Angelo in Colle has its own character. The vineyards are located in southern Montalcino, between the fractions of Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 300 to 350 metres, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin. The warm Maremma winds that blow up from the coast every day characterise the microclimate: ripe fruit, Mediterranean warmth and a freshness that other locations do not offer.

Campanaro is the flagship white cuvée from Feudi di San Gregorio – a masterful blend of Fiano and Greco, two indigenous grape varieties that develop their full potential in the cool, high-altitude vineyards of Irpinia. The grapes come from particularly well-ventilated plots with clay and limestone soils at an altitude of up to 650 metres – ideal conditions for fresh acidity, fine flavours and long ripening times. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. Rich, complex aromas on the nose: yellow apple, ripe apricot, candied lemon peel, roasted hazelnut, some fennel herb and a hint of smoky minerality. The short maturation in barriques leaves behind delicate hints of vanilla and toasted bread without masking the fruit. Elegant and full-bodied on the palate, carried by the natural freshness of the vintage, with a firm structure and a lively, almost savoury length.

Pinot Bianco reveals its aristocratic side at the high altitude of Zuc di Volpe. The privileged single vineyard site near Togliano offers ideal conditions for this elegant grape variety: cool nights, calcareous soils and excellent aeration, which enables slow, balanced ripening. Maturation in stainless steel tanks with an extended maturation period on the fine lees preserves the clear fruit and at the same time lends depth and structure. The nose reveals aromas of white peach, pear and a hint of camomile, underpinned by a fine nutty note. Finely crafted and precise on the palate, with a creamy texture, firm minerality and a long, balanced finish.

Here is one of the most serious and at the same time most exciting sparkling wines that can be made from the Sorbara variety! Pale to dusky pink in colour with a fine foam and accentuated, persistent perlage. The bouquet is almost magical and yet very distinguished, with hints of raspberry and wild strawberry, which is what makes a top-class Lambrusco, but still seems to be an unattainable goal for many local winegrowers. A fine acidity on the palate, with delicate, dry bitter notes and an exciting brightening of fruity tones of wild strawberry and pomegranate. The overall impression is bone-dry and the bottled dream of a Lambrusco produced using the champagne method, which is unrivalled in the wine landscape. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1886, Carlo Campagnola founded his winery in the Marano Valley, in the heart of Valpolicella Classico. In 1907, he won the first gold medal for the best Recioto at the Verona Wine Fair – since then, the family, now in its fifth generation, has continued what began as a small farm. The vineyards for this Amarone are located on calcareous slopes between 200 and 350 metres above sea level, where Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella are harvested by hand at the end of September. The traditional appassimento drying process takes around 100 days until the grapes have lost 35–40% of their weight. Gentle pressing in December, 30 days of maceration, then ageing: 60% matures for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, 40% for 18 months in new Allier oak barriques.

Already the famous Italian wine critic Veronelli rated the Colli Berici together with Bolgheri as one of the best growing areas for the Bordelais grape varieties. This rare Merlot is dedicated to its creator Alfredo Lazzarini, whose vineyards Inama recently acquired, and it represents the history of the Colli Berici. Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections, delicate watery rim. Spicy nuances of black cherries, ripe plums, forest floor, some jasmine and a pleasant touch of precious wood. Juicy on the palate, with good complexity and a chocolaty texture, round tannins and a discreet extract sweetness on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Macrina shines in the glass in a clear straw yellow colour with a subtle green hue. The bouquet exudes enchanting notes of fresh white flowers and green apple, carried by an elegant, persistent freshness. On the palate, the wine displays lively acidity, a juicy fruit structure and a distinctive mineral note that stylishly accompanies the floral and fruity accents. The transparent, clear ageing in stainless steel emphasises the pure varietal and origin presence. A juicy Verdicchio with elegant finesse and a drinkable balance. SUPERIORE.DE

The blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah combines the aristocratic depth of Cabernet with the seductive flavour of Syrah - both grape varieties that find Mediterranean ripeness in the chalky, sun-drenched soils around Noto. Cultivated organically, this wine conveys the sunshine of Sicily with a down-to-earth character and structure. The wine was originally only intended for private occasions – a heartfelt project that today celebrates with its name the connection to people and moments that are more than mere consumption. The grapes for it (label: "only the best grapes") come from strictly selected plots around Noto, where chalky soils, salt winds and intense sunlight characterise the aroma and structure.

Maldafrica describes an "inner longing for a distant land" and is not love at first sight, but it is one of Sicily's most interesting wines. It is initially very subtle and nuanced and it opens up gradually on its own timetable, but then: spontaneously fermented in amphorae, Maldafrica overwhelms the senses with dark fruits, spices, chopped herbs, savoury notes, sulphur, leather and damp tobacco. Its mouthfeel is over a minute long and its acidity provides the perfect amount of astringency to refresh the senses for all its opulence. A quiet monument that sets the standard for the entire wine region and leaves a lasting impression for all its longing. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Shardana refers to a mysterious, seafaring people of the Bronze Age, described by historians as part of the legendary Sea Peoples. Many assume that the Shardana originated from Sardinia – or at least settled here – before they became famous in the Mediterranean as fearless warriors and skilful navigators. Their symbols – horned helmets, round shields, depictions of ships – can still be found today in nuraghi and ancient inscriptions. With the name Shardana, Cantina Santadi builds a bridge from the past to the present. The wine symbolises the island's ancient, proud identity: unshakeable, powerful, full of character. It is no coincidence that the Carignano – a grape variety with deep roots in the south of the island – takes centre stage here. Like the Shardana itself, this wine defies time and fashion, remains true to itself and tells a story of origin, resistance and pride.

Light, dense ruby colour. A cool Cabernet profile with blue fruit on the nose: Blackberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, plus cedar wood, graphite, laurel and a hint of juniper. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, yet polished: juicy, dark fruit, very fine-grained, ripe tannins and a lively acidity that benefits from the constant coastal wind and the day/night temperature gradient. The spice remains elegantly in the background, the wood is perfectly integrated and supports the texture without masking the freshness. Long, straightforward finish with a salty, mineral flavour. The 2023 shows the sunny side of the Tuscan coast with balance instead of vigour: a precise, modern Maremma Cabernet – accessible in its youth, with reserves for several years. Ideal with grilled beef, lamb chops, savoury mushroom dishes or mature pecorino. SUPERIORE.DE

Named after the "Seggio" stream, the largest watercourse in the municipality of Castagneto Carducci, this elegant Bordeaux blend epitomises the accessibility and finesse of Bolgheri DOC. The historic watercourse rises in the Etruscan Colline Metallifere near Sassetta and flows through the entire Bolgheri area, its alluvial deposits enriching the characteristic clay soils with valuable pebbles. This harmonious cuvée comes from the privileged vineyards of Le Sondraie and Via Bolgherese. The vines, which are around 19 years old, thrive on well-drained, skeleton-rich soils with a clay layer and a high magnesium and iron content – ideal conditions for the international grape variety assemblage.

A Pinot Grigio with ambition, origin and character – far from convention. In the chalky hills of Buttrio, Paolo Meroi presses a white wine from old, deep-rooted vines that convincingly refutes the preconception of simple Pinot Grigio. The wine is matured partly in used wood and partly in stainless steel – precisely dosed to give the variety depth without sacrificing its freshness.

For two decades, the white indigenous cuvée Biancosesto has stood for one of the most original and stylistically distinctive interpretations of the Friulian white wine tradition – a poetic blend of Friulano and Ribolla Gialla from old vineyards around the historic settlement of Sesto al Reghena. The calcareous marl soils (Ponca) and the cool microclimate of the Colli Orientali provide this classic white wine with complexity and finesse every year.

A wine like a Sardinian epic: Pentima bears the name of its place of origin, a tiny spot in the Surrau Valley, and also the soul of past generations. This Riserva is a broodinghomage to the terroir that has an impact far beyond the borders of Gallura. The 2021 vintage had long periods of sunshine with cool sea nights – ripening was therefore intense but never overheated. The grapes were harvested late and, as always, selectively, allowing them to ripen fully in terms of structure and flavour density. A vintage that allowed for both stature and finesse and significantly shaped the complexity of this great Riserva. Fermentation took place in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by 18 months of ageing.

Pinzon. A location that has long been considered by connoisseurs to be synonymous with South Tyrolean Pinot Noir of the highest calibre. The small wine village on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, first mentioned in a document in 1230, lies in the middle of the vineyards along the Pinot Noir Trail, which are among the best Pinot Noir terroirs in Italy. Here, at an altitude of around 550 metres in the municipality of Montan, Peter Zemmer cultivates his vines on porphyry soils with dolomite-carbonate rock deposits – a geological combination that gives the wine its characteristic minerality. The microclimate of the site is characterised by the altitude above the Adige valley and the north-western exposure, which gives the vineyards long periods of evening sunshine. The "Ora", the famous valley wind that rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley, ventilates the vines in the afternoon hours and regulates the humidity – ideal conditions for the demanding Burgundy variety.

A name rises: Vallenuova, previously the estate's entry-level Chianti, will become a Riserva with the 2023 vintage. The vineyard, which surrounds the winery like a natural amphitheatre, bears the place name – still the official address of Tolaini in Castelnuovo Berardenga. What has changed is the time: instead of ten months, the Riserva now matures for much longer in a triad of Tuscan, Slavonian and Austrian oak before resting in the bottle for another few months. The base is now also clearly defined: 100% Sangiovese from silty-clayey soils with limestone and stones. Double selection – by hand in the vineyard, visually in the cellar – 20 days of maceration on the skins, temperature-controlled fermentation.

The Pratzner family keeps a few hundred bottles of each good vintage, which are then matured in the cellar for a further 6 years. These refined wines are then sold in small quantities as "Private Reserves" to selected retailers and restaurants, demonstrating the impressive ageing potential of their wines, which are matured for 10 months on the fine lees. Medium-bodied light yellow colour. Complex nose of pome fruit and lychee, the further 6 years of bottle ageing have given the wine a wonderful fullness and depth. We are delighted with the freshness and vigour that this Riserva radiates today. The final has an animating minerality with a pleasant smoky component. SUPERIORE.DE

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

Bruno Giacosa was convinced that great wines begin in the vineyard – and the best way to access the vineyard is through trust in experienced farmers. Whilst other estates bought land, Giacosa spent decades building up a network of reliable grape suppliers whom he knew better than their own accountants. From these relationships emerged the Barbaresco and Barolo wines that are now among Italy’s most iconic. And from the same relationships comes the Dolcetto. The grapes come from selected vineyards in Neive, Neviglie, Treiso and Alba – the heart of the Langhe, which Giacosa had known since his youth at the family estate. Since Bruno’s death in January 2018, his daughter Bruna has been running the estate, guided by the same conviction: no intervention that obscures the grape’s identity. The Dolcetto is produced entirely without the use of wood: 7 to 10 days of maceration in steel, full malolactic fermentation, 6 months in steel, one month in bottle.

While Lagrein traditionally dominates rosé production in South Tyrol, Franz Haas goes his own way. As a Pinot Nero specialist who has vinified and meticulously documented 592 different Pinot Nero versions in over three decades, he devotes the same attention to his rosé. The vines for this wine grow on Guyot vines at extreme altitudes of between 700 and 750 metres – significantly higher than usual for rosé. Grapes of exceptional quality ripen on dolomite weathered rock, with a high planting density and selected clones. Only 5,000 bottles are produced annually. Vinification consistently follows the white wine method: after destemming, the grapes are pressed directly, without maceration. The must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for several months before being bottled. This purist approach preserves the freshness and elegance that can be expected from Pinot Nero at altitude.

At Podere le Ripi, the grapes for the Rosso di Montalcino are given more time in the cellar than elsewhere, making the wine more similar to a Brunello than a Rosso. Deep ruby red in colour with orange reflections. A captivating symphony of aromas on the nose, ranging from cherry, strawberry and violet to fresh balsamic herbs. On the palate, an impressive, broad structure, beautifully interwoven primary and secondary flavours, a fine minerality and a remarkably long finish. The longer ageing period really pays off! SUPERIORE.DE