VINOUS

Named after Giuseppe Massolino, the charismatic uncle and long-time ambassador of the winery, Gisep is the majestic interpretation of a grape variety that matures to unimagined depth here. The grapes come from high-altitude, old vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, whose calcareous and clayey soils give the Barbera natural vigour and firm structure. The 2022 vintage, characterised by a warm summer with cooling September nights, produced grapes of exceptional physiological ripeness. The ageing in large oak barrels ensures harmonious tannins and a deep, persistent flavour.

Behind Noà is Cusumano's vision of a Sicilian red wine of international calibre, rooted in the barren highlands of Presti e Pegni near Monreale. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nero d'Avola thrive on calcareous, stony soils at an altitude of around 300 metres – a place where the heat of the day and the coolness of the night allow a precise interplay of ripeness and freshness. In the glass, Noà is a dark ruby colour with violet hues. The bouquet reveals a complex composition of ripe blackcurrants, sour cherries, blackberries and dried plums, underpinned by notes of espresso, cedar wood, tobacco and dark cocoa. Powerful and structured on the palate with velvety tannins, a supple texture and the characteristic depth that comes from the volcanic terroir and the barrique-aged composition. The final is long, with hints of liquorice, herbs and mineral spice.

Kyè – piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question is part of the programme. Freisa was once one of the most important grape varieties in Piedmont, then fell into oblivion, displaced by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research proved what the old winegrowers had long suspected – freisa is the closest relative of Nebbiolo, probably even a parent. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thus initiated a renaissance that is setting a precedent today. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the winery. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

The elegant blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot surprises with its aroma full of purity and intensely aromatic fruit flavour. Elegance and finesse trump muscle in Turpino, a wine that is always light on its feet. Fermentation in wooden barrels and ageing in barriques lend the spicy, balsamic notes of the grape blend a softness, a fine frame and a beguilingly long finish on the palate. With its tangy acidity balancing the ripe fruit, Turpino manages to be generous and restrained at the same time, making it a great accompaniment to Mediterranean meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright ruby red with garnet red reflections. Wild bouquet of red fruits, delicate spice flavours and a hint of tobacco and leather. Taut and elegant at the same time, the tannins are velvety soft, with a well-proportioned fruit centre and harmonious spiciness. A skilfully balanced red with a lingering final and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

La Fabriseria comes across as an elegant, medium-bodied Amarone. Its intensity, tannin structure and density are hard to beat in this price range. Very juicy on the palate, full-bodied and soft, with notes of cherries, cardamom and cloves. And always with the elegant seriousness of the Tedeschi family's great flagship of the same name. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright silver-grey with a persistent, finesse-rich perlage. A wonderful nose of white flowers and light-coloured fruit. Full, broad and creamy elegance on the palate, supported by a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity. A very expressive and sensual Prosecco Superiore from the top Cartizze vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

The world-famous Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer has been a real benchmark for years and is also a convincing wine in terms of longevity. Bright yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Typically perfect, complex and deep, but also agile and fresh with beautiful nuances. A broad bouquet of rose petals, smoke and oriental spices. On the palate it flows silky smooth, velvety and spicy, lingers for a long time, great! SUPERIORE.DE

The Ghezzi family has been cultivating the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino since 1957 – 530 hectares in total, 50 of which are planted with Sangiovese Grosso alone, on clayey-limestone soils with silt and fossil inclusions. A Brunello that combines the power of the south with the elegance of careful clonal selection comes from this sunny, warm location on the Ombrone. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of ageing in the bottle. The 2021 vintage is considered a classic great Annata: late frost in April noticeably reduced the yields, a warm but never overheated summer and two saving August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising approach to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their best grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the community. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected communal vineyards, some of which are adjacent to the crus, on chalky and clayey soils. Vinification was carried out traditionally: a long maceration period, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further resting period in the bottle.

Ben Ryé - the great naturally sweet and world-famous white wine from Donnafugata. The grapes are harvested in mid-August and left to dry naturally for 20 to 30 days. In September, the later ripening grapes are harvested and freshly processed. The hand-picked raisined berries are added to the must in several stages during fermentation. Light orange yellow in colour. Overwhelming aromas of apricot, peach and orange peel. Creamy notes of passion fruit and peach on the palate with an impressive elegance and length. For us, one of the best sweet wines in Italy every year! SUPERIORE.DE

Finely structured Rosé Millesimato with elegance and depth – the essence of time in every sip. The cuvée of predominantly Chardonnay with a proportion of Pinot Nero reveals its perfection after a long lees contact. Delicate old rose colour in the glass with a subtle perlage. The bouquet combines fine aromas of red berries, particularly redcurrant and raspberry, with delicate brioche and almond notes and a hint of dried rose. On the palate, it impresses with juicy fruit, lively acidity and elegant creaminess. The perlage is subtle, the finish dry, precise and persistent with a slightly salty length. A rosé that is powerful and subtle at the same time – noble, classic, with very good balance. Ideal with salmon, tuna carpaccio, tender veal or as an aperitif. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

In 1996, Elisabetta Geppetti bought a slope near Pereta. She named it Poggio Valente – the valiant hill, the brave hill. A name that says it all. The site lies at 280 metres, facing south-west, on sandy soils over sandstone rocks with clay inlays – a soil that gives the Sangiovese precision and elegance rather than weight and vigour. Elisabetta wanted something different here: a single-varietal Sangiovese cru in the Burgundian style, a wine that speaks its vineyard and nothing else. In 2014, she made a consistent decision: Poggio Valente left the Morellino appellation and has since appeared as a Toscana IGT. Not a step backwards – quite the opposite. A statement. This wine is bigger than its designation of origin, and Elisabetta did not want the lack of international recognition of an appellation to limit its ambition.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.

Le Cupole has been the accessible entry point into the world of the legendary Tenuta di Trinoro since 1995, but "accessible" never means compromise at this visionary winery. In the Val d'Orcia, where southern Tuscany is wild and unspoilt, near Sarteano on the border with Umbria and Lazio, the eccentric scion of the Cinzano empire and nephew of the American painter Cy Twombly created a wine paradise at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres, which was initially thought to be crazy. Le Cupole is made from the same Bordeaux blend as the great Tenuta di Trinoro – merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot –but comes from younger vines on deeper, less extreme soils. The proportions vary depending on the vintage in order to optimally interpret the characteristics of the harvest.

After 35 years at the helm of Vietti, Luca Currado and Elena Penna ventured a new beginning in 2023: Cascina Penna-Currado, an artisanal boutique winery in Serralunga d'Alba, founded together with their children Michele and Giulia. A cascina dating back to 1554, once owned by the Marchesi Falletti, with a 360° view over the Langhe – and a wine that epitomises Elena's long-standing passion: Timorasso. The almost extinct, indigenous white wine variety of Piedmont, revived in the Colli Tortonesi, where Sant'Agata fossilised marl – 20 million years old compacted limestone – provide the typical salinity and minerality. The 15-year-old vines grow in Berzano di Tortona on east-facing slopes. The vinification is ground-breaking: spontaneous fermentation with innovative "submerged cap maceration" – the skins remain submerged, which enables perfect extraction without oxidative notes. 40-45% skin maceration, then maturation on the fine lees in clayver ceramic vats, partial malolactic fermentation.

Vigna Spuntali is located in the south-west of Montalcino, at 300 metres, less than 30 kilometres from the sea. This is no small matter. Where other locations are characterised by continental influences, the Mediterranean reigns here: dry heat, constant ventilation, salty breeze. Olive trees, myrtle, rosemary, sea lilacs – the Mediterranean maquis begins just behind the vines. The soil consists of sandy soils of weathered Pietraforte rock, well drained, rich in minerals, warm. Sangiovese Grosso thrives here unlike anywhere else in Montalcino – riper, more voluminous, with an iodised sea breeze on the finish that is unmistakable. The Rosso Vigna Spuntali is a new chapter in the Val di Suga portfolio: a single-vineyard Rosso that expresses the character of this exceptional terroir directly and without detours. Hand-picked in the morning, fermentation lasts twelve days, followed by a ten-day post-fermentation phase. Ageing: six months in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, then twelve months in concrete vats – an ageing process that preserves freshness and develops depth at the same time. Twelve months of bottle ageing complete the circle.

Nerobaronj is no ordinary Nero d'Avola, but a deeply rooted homage to origin and style. The name plays with the aristocratic title and grape variety – and refers to the self-confident profile of a wine that sets new standards with its concentration and elegance. The grapes come from the south of Sicily, not far from Noto, from old bush vines on calcareous clay soil. Organic cultivation, hand-picking and strict selection ensure a high degree of precision. The wine is matured for 24 months in barriques and tonneaux, followed by long bottle ageing.

Nubiola is a Barbaresco with inner tension: differentiated, unagitated, but with a clear character. The name refers to historical roots: Vitis Nubiola was the name given to Nebbiolo in the 13th century. Pelissero has revived this term – not out of sentimentality, but because it suits the style of the wine: Complexity instead of posturing, depth instead of effect. The grapes come from various plots around Treiso, on soils of calcareous marl with a fine clay content. The sites complement each other – altitude, exposure, microclimate – to create a complex but harmonious overall picture. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and matured for 18 months in large barrels and tonneaux, all with deliberate restraint so that the structure and origin remain visible.

From the highest corner of the Vigna Istine (the name 550 refers to the metres above sea level), surrounded by cool forests, this balanced Merlot is vinified in concrete before spending around 15 months in lightly toasted tonneaux. Due to the cool location, it is – unusually – harvested after the Sangiovese so that it has more time to mature on the vine. The result is a wine with a fine tannic structure and juicy, ripe blue fruit, with a hint of red fruit and some coffee notes leading to a long, graceful finish. Production is 2,600 bottles per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

The harvested Malvasia grapes remain in shaded drying chambers for several weeks under good ventilation. Without moisture and hot sun, the grapes dry slowly and thus retain their acidity and very moderate alcohol levels. Capofaro is an impressive dessert wine that comes from vines that once belonged to the late winemaker Carlo Hauner, who made Malvasia from the island of Salina famous.