Moscato

Santo Stefano Belbo is a small town in the Langhe, at the transition to the Asti zone – known as the birthplace of Cesare Pavese and the heart of Moscato cultivation. It is also the home of the Ceretto family. A second story began here in 1976, when Bruno and Marcello Ceretto had long been regarded as the reformers of Barolo and Barbaresco: together with four local winegrowing families, they founded I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – out of a desire to restore the dignity of Moscato d'Asti. At the time, the grape variety had sunk into mass production and the name had been eroded. In contrast, they set 41 hectares, hand-picked grapes and a clear attitude. Today, almost fifty years later, the principle remains unchanged: 100% Moscato Bianco from marble-rich hillside terrain at around 400 metres above Santo Stefano Belbo and neighbouring Calosso. Fermented exclusively in steel. The freshness and varietal character of Moscato should speak for themselves, and they do so extremely well.

The Goldmuskateller (moscato giallo) is one of South Tyrol's aromatic rarities. At Tiefenbrunner, it thrives at altitudes between 220 and 650 metres, with the best lots coming from the Penon, Hofstatt and Rain vineyards: 400 to 650 metres high, on calcareous dolomite soils that give the wine its fine mineral structure. Vinification takes place exclusively in concrete tanks – a deliberate decision to preserve the varietal flavours unadulterated.

Goldmuskateller is one of South Tyrol's oldest grape varieties, which until a few years ago was still regarded as temperamental and demanding. Manincor demonstrates what this "diva" is capable of when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, with an extremely steep south-facing slope featuring warm gravelly soils and moraine deposits. Added to this are Vogelleiten and Panholzer, with loamy limestone gravel soils – sites where the Muscat's exuberant growth is tamed and perfect ripeness is achieved. The destemmed berries macerate for twelve hours in the press to extract aroma and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, largely spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month ageing on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour become more refined – and the wine develops that balance between fruit and minerality which characterises dry Muscat wines.

Straw yellow in colour with a fine, persistent perlage. The nose is a fragrant mix of orange blossom, white peach and lime zest, accompanied by sage and a hint of blossom honey. Delicately sparkling and crystal clear on the palate: juicy stone fruit, fine sweetness and a lively, citric acidity are perfectly balanced. The ageing in pressurised tanks preserves the aromatic purity and ensures lightness and flow. Long, fragrant finish with a delicate minerality – an elegant, typical Moscato d'Asti with a high charm factor. SUPERIORE.DE

Santo Stefano Belbo and Calosso, 400 metres above sea level, on the marly soils of the Langhe: here grows the Moscato Bianco from which I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – the joint project of the Ceretto family and local winegrowers since 1976 – to produce this Asti Spumante. 41 hectares, harvested by hand. A wine that comes from one of the most precise Moscato terroirs in Piedmont. The second fermentation in pressurised tanks gives the wine its lively, finely sparkling mousseux and raises the alcohol content to 7%. Five atmospheres of pressure during bottling: this is complete sparkling wine character that brings the Moscato flavours to the fore.

"A quei tempi era sempre festa" – back then there was always a party. Thus begins Cesare Pavese's novel "La bella estate", written in 1940 and awarded the Premio Strega in 1950, a tale about those fleeting summers of youth when anything seems possible. It is no coincidence that Vite Colte named its Moscato Passito after this work: the Barolo cooperative has dedicated several of its wines to Piedmontese Liters– "La Luna e i Falò", also a Pavese title, adorns their award-winning Barbera d'Asti. It is a nod to their homeland, to the landscape of hills and mist that Pavese described so unmistakably.

Giardino Pantesco is a liquid mini-break on Pantelleria – golden as the last ray of sunlight at sunset, steeped in the history and terroir of this magical island. The name refers to the "Giardini Panteschi", those centuries-old circular dry-stone walls that break the wind and stabilise the microclimate for crops such as the gnarled Zibibbo vine. Anyone savouring this Passito will feel a sense of reverence for this landscape and tradition with every sip.

Copper-coloured with light brown reflections. The bouquet is floral, sweet and complex. On the palate, its typical Moscato flavours are carried by honey, dried fruit, caramel and a hint of musk. Creamy and dense on the palate with a well-balanced acidity that gives it plenty of freshness. Overall, Aestas Passito is a dessert wine for us that is hard to beat in terms of excitement and speciality and where you can feel the dedication and certain wine craziness with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

Zibibbo is the most aromatic grape variety in Sicily. Its full name is Moscato d'Alessandria – from Alexandria, Egypt, from where it travelled to the Mediterranean for centuries. On Pantelleria, it is known as the soul of the sweet passito. COS turns it into something else: a dry wine, spontaneously fermented on the skins in Liters terracotta amphorae. The vineyards are located in the hinterland of Marsala, at 12 metres above sea level. This is no coincidence – it is part of the programme. The sea is close by, the air is salty, the soil is flat and sandy. Biodynamically cultivated, Guyot training, around 5,000 vines per hectare. Hand-picked in September. Then the amphora: spontaneous fermentation, skin contact, natural yeasts, no intervention.

The Greeks brought Moscato Bianco to Sicily. Biblino, the island's first documented wine from the Syracusan hinterland, is said to be its ancestor. Thousands of years later, Planeta lies in Contrada Buonivini, not far from Noto, at 40 metres above sea level in a landscape of white, limestone-rich soil, almond trees and sea breezes. What the Greeks knew: there is hardly a better place for Moscato. At the end of August, when the berries have reached full ripeness, the grapes are harvested by hand. What follows is the centrepiece: around 40 days of appassimento in fruttaio, in 5-kilogram crates with controlled ventilation. The grapes lose half their weight – and double their essence.

A grape variety like a secret: Rosenmuskateller migrated from Sicily to the Alps in the middle of the 19th century and found its second home on the alluvial soils of the Anreiterhof farm in Moritzing near Bolzano. Today it is one of the rarest grape varieties in South Tyrol – and the Rosis from the Bolzano winery is one of its finest interpreters. After harvest, the select grapes are subjected to natural air-drying, which concentrates their flavours and intensifies their sweetness. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and patient bottle ageing preserve the delicate fullness of flavour.

The Moscato Giallo is dry and matured for 5 months on the fine lees and has a golden yellow colour. It is an aromatic wine, with notes of citrus fruits, white peaches, lemon balm and elderberry, combined with a hint of nutmeg and sweet spices. The lively acidity and discreet mineral structure give this wine an excellent freshness and pleasant style. SUPERIORE.DE

Ben Ryé – Donnafugata's great, naturally sweet and world-famous white wine. The grape harvest begins in mid-August, and the grapes are left to dry naturally for 20 to 30 days. In September, the later-ripening grapes are harvested and processed whilst still fresh. The hand-picked, raisin-like berries are added to the must in several stages during fermentation. Pale orange-yellow in colour. Overwhelming aromas of apricot, peach and orange peel. On the palate, creamy notes of passion fruit and peach with impressive elegance and length. For us, one of Italy's finest sweet wines every year! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1973, Benito and Giannola Nonino revolutionised the world of grappa: for the first time, pomace was distilled in a single variety – a concept that is now standard as Monovitigno. Moscato epitomises this principle in its most aromatic form. Fresh, soft vinacce of the Moscato grape from selected growing regions ferment in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in the absence of air. The discontinuous distillation in copper steam stills takes place with separation of the first and last run-off – only the centrepiece reaches the bottle. Maturation in stainless steel preserves the freshness and clarity typical of the variety.

Moscato Rosa is one of the aromatic treasures of South Tyrol – an autochthonous grape variety of beguiling elegance and extreme sensitivity. The vines grow at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres in locations exposed to the wind, where constant air movement disperses the moisture. This wind is essential for survival: even the slightest botrytis infestation would destroy the diverse aromatic components and weaken the colour intensity. The soils of porphyry, sand, clay and limestone facing south-south-west provide the perfect foundation for this rarity. Vinification follows the principles of red wine production, but with a shorter maceration period to avoid aggressive tannins. As soon as the desired characteristics are achieved, fermentation is interrupted by cooling – a precise moment that requires a sure instinct. The young wine remains in stainless steel until bottling, where it retains its aromatic freshness.

Moscadello was originally the first wine from the Montalcino appellation, long before the triumphant rise of Brunello. Mastrojanni's Moscadello di Montalcino is a blend of late harvested Moscato, Malvasia di Candia and Sauvignon Bianco. The wine matures for two years in barriques and tonneaux. Intensely fragrant bouquet with plenty of power and character, aromas of candied fruit, honey and brown sugar. These notes are reproduced with every sip with impressively brilliant precision and astonishing freshness. This rare wine (only 1,300 bottles were filled) matures for two years in barriques and tonneaux and is traditionally enjoyed instead of a dessert or with cantuccini. Very delicate. SUPERIORE.DE

Named after the ancient Roman wine festivals, Passito Vinalia is a sweet dessert wine that goes particularly well with South Tyrolean apple strudel. The strictly selected grapes, which are air-dried after the harvest, come from the sun-drenched vineyards on the slopes of Bolzano at 300 to 400 metres above sea level. They are gently pressed around 4 months after the harvest and then fermented in used French barriques.

Oro – golden name, golden essence. This passito is a real masterpiece, with its bright amber colour and copper reflections, visually announcing its precious concentration and depth. The grapes (100% Moscato Bianco) undergo a deliberate drying process: Harvested late and stored dry until December before undergoing fermentation – including malolactic fermentation and maturation for 24 months in new barriques. A complex process during which the wine matures to a balsamic, honey-saturated elegance.

Moscato Giallo was one of the first grape varieties chosen by Nonino for its exclusive cru line of grape brandy – and for good reason. This golden yellow variety of the Muscat family has an aromatic potential that comes to full fruition in the distillate. The grapes come from Besenello in the Lagrein Valley, the southern tip of Trentino, where the Vallagarina combines an Alpine climate with Mediterranean influences. Harvested at perfect ripeness and processed immediately, they undergo the ÙE method: the skin, pulp and juice are distilled together, slowly, in Benito's copper steam stills.