James Suckling

In the gentle hills of Serdiana, where the Mediterranean sun meets ancient soils, a quiet revolution took place in the 1980s. Antonio Argiolas, patriarch of a family that has been connected to the Sardinian soil for generations, dared to do the unthinkable: he brought the legendary Giacomo Tachis, the creator of Sassicaia, to the island to realise the dream of a great Sardinian wine together. Turriga was born – not just as a wine, but as a manifesto for an entire region. The name itself tells a story: Turriga comes from the Sardinian dialect and refers to the characteristic watchtowers that have guarded the island's coastline for centuries. Like these stone sentinels overlooking the sea, this wine watches over the reputation of Sardinian oenology. This cuvée from various red Sardinian grape varieties comes from the best vineyards of Tenuta Turriga – a composition that combines Tachis' genius for blending with the authentic soul of Sardinia.

Treiso is not Neive. Once you've grasped that, you begin to see the Barbaresco appellation in a different light. Neive offers power, body and polyphenols. Treiso – the southernmost of the three Barbaresco municipalities, situated at a higher altitude, cooler, with more compact, limestone-rich soils – imparts rigour, minerality and a longevity that some other sites lack. The MGA Pajoré is Treiso's voice in the Sottimano collection: the most traditional, the most persistent and, of the five crus, the one that demands the most patience. Old vines on calcareous-clay soils, steep and well-exposed. Organic cultivation from the outset. Fermentation with natural yeasts, extended maceration, natural malolactic fermentation. Aged for 18 to 22 months in François-Frères barriques, half on the lees, with a minimal proportion of new oak. No filtration. No fining. A further year in the bottle. The same winemaking method as always – and, as so often, proof that terroir matters more than technique.

Within the walls of history. The Castello di Bolgheri, built in 1796 and thus the oldest winery in Bolgheri, sits enthroned in the heart of the medieval village like a stone witness to great wine culture. While the world of wine underwent its revolutionary transformation around the Castello – sassicaia and Ornellaia wrote their legendary stories –a treasure lay dormant here that only awoke to its true destiny under Count Federico Zileri Dal Verme. The blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot not only represents the art of blending, but also the philosophy of the house: finesse over power, elegance over opulence. While the best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon underwent an exceptionally long maceration of 30 days – only possible in exceptional vintages –the wine matured for 20 months in traditional Italian vats and Liters barrels. This choice of large wooden barrels, a deliberate departure from the small barriques of its neighbours, gives the wine the crystalline purity and mineral depth that makes the Castello the "Château Margaux of Bolgheri".

Basarin is the latest chapter in the Sottimano story – acquired in 2014, it was the fifth cru to complete the portfolio. And, at the same time, the most complex. The small Basarin MGA stretches across a varied landscape characterised by steep slopes and considerable altitude – a terrain that seems almost rugged compared to the gentle hills of other Neive vineyards. The soils are of Miocene-Helvetian origin, predominantly calcareous and interspersed with sandy veins – a composition that allows for both mineral tension and aromatic depth. The vines here vary in age and aspect, which places an additional demand on the winemaking process: even more precise selection and harvesteven more careful harvestof harvest. This is followed by the consistent Sottimano method: fermentation on natural yeasts, long maceration, spontaneous malolactic fermentation, 18 to 22 months in specially crafted barriques, and one year's bottle ageing. No filtration. No fining.

This is where it all began. When Rino Sottimano acquired his first plots in Neive in the 1970s, Cottà was his first vineyard – that south-west-facing site near the border with the municipality of Barbaresco, where the Nebbiolo benefits from two worlds: the power and polyphenols that Neive imparts to its wines, and the balance of tannins that the proximity to Barbaresco brings. It is the family's oldest plot – and the most authentic. Vines aged between 40 and 60 years on gently rolling slopes with light grey and yellowish Tortonian and Helvetic marl. Organic viticulture without compromise, fermentation with natural yeasts, long maceration with the cap submerged. Malolactic fermentation, which is not completed until the spring following the harvest. Then 18 to 22 months in barriques specially crafted for Sottimano by François Frères, half on the lees, with a small proportion of new oak. No filtration, no fining.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

The small vineyard is located at an altitude of 500 m above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also called a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruits, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focused and with increasing aeration very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will delight not only Cabernet lovers. Only about 1,300 bottles of this spectacular drop can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

This strictly limited-edition Riserva is bottled only in the finest vintages. The bouquet is perfect and brooding, with notes of dried fruit, blackberries, white smoke and crushed stone. On the palate, it is wonderfully structured with precise balance and an almost weightless elegance, making it one of the finest red wines from southern Italy. Still intensely youthful, it has plenty of time ahead of it.  SUPERIORE.DE

Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, who runs the estate together with her husband Michael, gave her name to this Chardonnay. A wine that combines elegance with determination, finesse with power. Half the grapes come from one of two contrasting worlds: Terlan Lieben Aich at 300 metres, facing west, where loamy sandy soil on volcanic porphyry nourishes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And Kaltern Mazzon – Manincor's steepest vineyard, the 'Leiten' with gradients of up to 100 per cent. Here, Chardonnay and Viognier are rooted at altitudes of between 350 and 400 metres in calcareous loess-loam, facing south-west towards the light. Two soils, two microclimates, one vision. The destemmed berries macerate for four hours in the press – longer than for the Eichhorn, shorter than for the Sauvignons. Finesse is the guiding principle; the pressing process is slow and meticulous. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels of various sizes, followed by nine months' ageing on the fine lees. Here, the aroma and structure develop into the density that characterises Sophie.

2022 was the year of the drought. Not the first, not the last – but one that told its own story at Roccamonfina. Week after week without rain, soils as yellow as straw under the sun. And yet: the springs in the volcanic rock never dried up. The soil that Galardi works holds water deep beneath the stones, invisible and inexhaustible. Allegra Selvaggi, who runs the estate today, described this vintage with Monet – not the motif, but the air around it. The multicoloured landscape despite the drought. The beauty that arises when a terroir is stronger than the weather.

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has achieved immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. But Cinzia Merli dared to – and created the white alter ego of her legendary red Paleo line in 1991 with Paleo Bianco. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants developed into one of the most enigmatic and sought-after white wines in Italy. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan haystack – has the same poetic soul as its red brother, but its character is completely unique. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc merge here to create a symphony of Mediterranean intensity that translates international grape varieties into Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that led the Paleo Bianco from the citrusy freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is situated in the classic Sesta area, facing south-west, on one of the sunniest and best-ventilated plots on the entire estate – and it embodies a tradition that Lisini takes to heart: The estate's 'veterans' – those most experienced staff members who have known the estate for decades – graft premium cuttings from the estate's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks by hand. No clonal selection from a catalogue, no technological shortcuts – just knowledge passed down from person to person, vintage after vintage.

Like a precious legacy, this wine rests in the history of the patrician Serristori family, who acquired the land of Donoratico in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. Today, from the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that bears the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty whisper of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera, the DOC Bolgheri estate closest to the coast and at the same time the highest, the grapes ripen between the Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico site, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, while the subsoil is criss-crossed by marine flysch rock, a geological memory of seas long past.

A wine that takes its name from the estate's last noble family – and thus from a man who left his mark far beyond the world of wine. Count Guido Chigi Saracini, born in Siena in 1880, was not only the lord of Poggio Bonelli, but also a passionate patron of the arts. In 1932, he founded the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, which remains one of the world's most renowned centres for musical education to this day. He spent the milder seasons at his estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga – where the grapes for this Gran Selezione ripen today. It represents the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico hierarchy: exclusively Sangiovese from the finest south-facing slopes at altitudes of between 280 and 360 metres, where sun and wind ensure consistent ripening and aromatic complexity. Strictly limited yields of 50 quintals per hectare, twelve days of temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by a further ten days of maceration on the skins. Then comes patience: at least 24 months in French oak, followed by ageing in the bottle.

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has achieved immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. But Cinzia Merli took the plunge – and in 1991, with the Paleo Bianco, she created the white counterpart to her legendary red Paleo range. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants has evolved into one of Italy's most enigmatic and sought-after white wines. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan word for haystack – shares the same poetic soul as its red counterpart, yet its character is entirely its own. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc blend here to form a symphony of Mediterranean intensity, translating international grape varieties into the Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that has taken the Paleo Bianco from the citrus freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

This is the top wine from Il Poggione, and it is a must for anyone who collects wines from this famous vineyard. The estate's oldest parcel, Vigna Paganelli, is a 12-hectare vineyard that was planted back in 1964. It boasts a rich variety of old Sangiovese clones, which are used for the newer plantings.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

White wines from Etna are always special and are in a league of their own due to the generally very old vines, the extreme altitude and the usually minimal yield per hectare. The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco can be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante can be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. When the origin of the Carricante grapes is the small parcel (Contrada) Caselle with mostly 100-year-old ungrafted bush vines (Alberelli), even connoisseurs can be excited. The soil, which was formed by centuries of volcanic activity, has numerous layers of minerals and salts, pumice, lapilli, fine and light ash. This extremely rare terroir is particularly fertile and produces late-ripening, healthy, fresh and very flavourful grapes despite the generally high thermal excesses during the summer. Less than 1,000 bottles of this exceptional wine are produced in good years, so you can imagine that we consider ourselves lucky to be able to offer a few cases of this rare wine.

A story of renaissance in the truest sense of the word: after more than twenty years of silence, Le Caggiole recently shone in new splendour. What Federico Carletti describes as an "importante lavoro di recupero" is akin to oenological archaeology – the systematic rediscovery of a 14-hectare site that had once been forgotten. At an altitude of 350 metres, on the road from Montepulciano to Gracciano, intensive research revealed the true potential of this east-facing slope: soils of marine origin, decidedly sandy, of a completely different geological character to the famous Asinone just one kilometre away. Through meticulous selection of Sangiovese rootstocks and clones, precise planting and a deep understanding of the soil and microclimate, this 100 per cent Prugnolo Gentile emerged from its decades-long hiatus.

Querciabella's Riserva, with an annual production of 10,000 bottles, is a selection of the best lots. It blends fruit from Greve, where the vineyards lie between 350 and 550 metres above sea level, with grapes from the stony high altitudes of Radda and the chalky soils of Gaiole. Tantalising aromas of spring flowers, cranberries and potting soil are accompanied by vanilla and smoke. On the palate, it is polished and pure, with a delicious, tangy acidity and sinewy tannins. As every year, one of the most refined wines of the appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori Riserva was not only named dessert wine of the year in Gambero Rosso 2021 (1976 vintage), but was also bottled in this 1979 vintage edition. As it was possible to bottle a little more this year than in other years, the usual assemblage of the best vintages of the last century was dispensed with this year. Nonetheless, or perhaps precisely because of this, it is, as always, a breathtaking wine that leaves nothing to be desired in terms of intensity, maturity and depth! SUPERIORE.DE

Hardly any Brunello is as authentic as the wines from Le Potazzine - they reveal the whole truth of the Sangiovese grape. The result is neither completely polished, nor is it boring or predictable. The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino achieves a degree of extreme authenticity and originality that you don't find on every corner in the appellation. It is a wine full of understatement and equally great personality, for which one must take time and leisure to discover every last nuance. On the nose, it reveals a subtle and well-composed bouquet of red roses, spices, earth and wild mushrooms. As always with Le Potazzine, there is also a wild hint of rusticity. On the palate, this Brunello reveals its powerful fruit and perfectly integrated tannins. Like a friend you can rely on, this Brunello is both a role model and a lovable buddy. SUPERIORE.DE

Crosara Breganze 2017 is a textbook Merlot: full of ripe dark fruits, blackberry pie, liquorice, chocolate, toasted oak and grilled herbs. Offering superb inner sweetness, it is both powerful and elegant, with a lush, super-soft mouthfeel. Pleasingly, a wonderfully focused mineral component saves the wine from ever being overdone. SUPERIORE.DE