James Suckling | 95–100 Points

The pure, autochthonous Nerello Mascalese from over 100-year-old (ungrafted) vines in Contrada Rampante on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at an altitude of 950 metres starts with a sparkling ruby-garnet colour and impressively adds a captivating raspberry aroma, followed by fine spicy notes (ginger, allspice, clove). Compact, dense, fully fruity, tannic on the palate, yet always extremely relaxed, elegant and supple. Traces of salt and flint on the finish. Just over 2,000 bottles of this masterpiece are produced every year. SUPERIORE.DE

When Archduke Ferdinand enfeoffed General Alessandro dal Borro with the castle in 1644, it returned to the Dal Borro family. Alessandro was regarded as the scourge of the Turks; it was under his leadership that the fortress was rebuilt. After his death, his descendants inherited the estate, and when the family line died out, it passed to the Grand Ducal Crown. Today, an organically grown Syrah bears his name, sourced from a single vineyard at the estate's highest elevation, with low yields and a gravelly, stony soil. The grapes are harvested by hand into 10-kilo crates and fermented in stainless steel; the wine is then aged for 24 months in French barriques – 70% new and 30% previously used – followed by a further four months in stainless steel. The 2018 vintage followed a warm, rainy winter and a similarly wet spring; the summer and autumn were consistent, allowing the grapes to ripen perfectly.

Barolo Ornato is a great wine every year. With its wild herbs, minerals and ferrous notes, it captures the true character of Serralunga. Its bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, framed by gravel, forest floor, blue flowers and candied orange peel. The wine also has a dusty, mineral note and is very intense both on the nose and on the palate. Ornato starts with finely integrated tannins and an acidity that sustains all these fruit flavours. A wine that is consistently vertical, straightforward and frontal. SUPERIORE.DE

Sugarille 2019 is certainly one of the greats of its vintage. A crescendo of dark berries, Amarena cherries, tar, liquorice and smoky notes on the nose. The intensity continues on the palate: Sugarille is uncompromisingly powerful, with multi-layered fruit, striking tannins and wonderful acid wire. With increasing aeration, the impressiveness and opulence give way to a wonderful finesse that will continue to refine and develop with further years of bottle ageing. A wine as wonderful as it is today - and guaranteed to be even better tomorrow! SUPERIORE.DE

San Leonardo is the flagship wine of the winery of the same name and, year after year, one of the finest red wines in northern Italy. It boasts an opulent bouquet with hints of dark fruits such as blackberry and sour cherry. Delicate hints of spice, leather and tobacco lend it a terrific complexity, which is then enhanced on the palate by a harmonious interplay of dark berries and plums, all flanked by clearly defined tannins. A masterful, characterful red that, after a few more years of bottle ageing, rises to its true greatness and lives up to its reputation. SUPERIORE.DE

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle coming from the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.

Grattamacco is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, the latter grape variety certainly contributing to the fresh style of this wine. However, the overall picture is only complete when you realise that the vineyards used for this blend are among the best in the appellation. The Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso Superiore is characterised by its typical aromas of leaves and Mediterranean forest, with subtle flavours of kiwi peel, cassis, paprika and chocolate. Velvety, youthful and firm on the attack, less light than the Alberello, but more tightly woven and of great elegance. Its length is astonishing, great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Since the 2011 vintage, the Riserva Marchese Antinori has been produced entirely from grapes grown at Tenuta Tignanello. This has led to a reduction in production volume and a further leap in quality. A sparkling ruby colour, with a bouquet of dark wild cherries, graphite, violets and spices. Smooth and round on the palate, yet very juicy, with the French oak adding extra body and richness. SUPERIORE.DE

Ceretto's Barbaresco Asili (approx. 4,000 bottles) is the clearest and most complete of the winery's impressive Barbaresco collection. It reveals a fine sweetness of cherries and redcurrants on the nose, followed by an extremely silky and fine texture on the palate. Following on from the bright berry fruit, its bouquet reveals subtle notes of gravel and delicate, salty flavours. Overall, an accessible and highly elegant approach with great freshness, fine tannins and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Messorio has been undisputedly one of the best and rarest Merlots in Italy since the mid-1990s. It was named after the Tuscan wheat harvest, the most fundamental moment in the agricultural year – was created in 1994 from Eugenio Campolmi's (†2002) personal challenge to Merlot. It was not to be a tame, predictable wine, but a spirited thoroughbred, ready to make a grand entrance. The 2019 vintage epitomises the elegance of slow ripening without extreme heat. A mild winter with little rainfall, followed by cool March days and gradually rising temperatures in April, led to cautious development. The rainy, cool May slowed down the vegetation, while the hot start to June required intensive foliage work.

The single vineyard Il Bricco, situated on both sides of the hilltop, the highest point is about 410 metres above sea level. Family-owned since the 1970s, you can expect great things every year. 2020 brought a stable summer, with a precise cooling in September and cool nights until the harvest. The result is very healthy, aromatically ripe grapes with clear fruit and balanced acidity – charming on the palate, yet precise and persistent. After separate fermentation of the batches in stainless steel, the wine is matured traditionally in large barrels and a moderate proportion of barrique is used for texture.

This immensely popular and elegant classic Amarone from Zenato comes from Sant'Ambrogio, the heart of the Valpolicella Classico region, where the family has been based since 1960. Corvina makes up eighty per cent of the blend, complemented by Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina – all grown on the slopes of the Costalunga vineyard. Following the hand-harvest in October, the appassimento process begins: the grapes rest in shallow crates for four months, losing water whilst concentrating their sugar and aromas. Pressing does not take place until January, followed by slow fermentation in contact with the skins. The wine then matures for thirty-six months in large Slavonian oak barrels before being released following further bottle ageing.

Chardonnay in the Maremma – that sounds like a bad idea. The sun is too strong, the summer too long, the heat too Mediterranean. And yet: Georg Weber took up this challenge. Not because he had to, but because he loves Chardonnay – the great white Burgundy wines, their texture, their complexity, their ability to reflect a place rather than mask it. Capalbio is one of the very few places on the Tuscan coast where this gamble pays off: 30 to 80 metres above sea level, five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, clay-limestone with eroded stones, constant sea breezes, cool nights. Each plot is vinified separately – because Weber believes that the terroir should have the final say, not the cellar. Whole-bunch pressing, natural fermentation, ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, using gravity alone throughout the entire process. Matured in French barriques and oval concrete tanks – a combination that gives the Chardonnay structure and depth without weighing it down. Around 5,000 bottles. The terroir allows for no more.

Terlano I (pronounced Primo) Grande Cuvée is the name of the white flagship of Cantina Terlano. In recent years, the winery has made a name for itself worldwide with its long-lasting, mineral white wines. Even years later, the wines still present themselves with top freshness and great complexity. With this long history of white wines, since the 2011 vintage there is now a wine in which the essence of Terlan is expressed in an even more focussed way. Terlaner I Grande Cuvée combines the Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon grape varieties from the Winkl, Kreuth and Vorberg vineyards to create a masterpiece which, due to its limited and exclusive nature, will only be available from hand-picked retailers and in selected top restaurants.

In 1994, Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti set aside two barrels of Merlot, without realising that they were creating a cult wine that would catapult the estate onto the world stage. The name comes from a small stream that flows close to the vineyards, as unassuming as the project's very beginnings. Then, in 2000, came the sensation: Robert Parker awarded it a full 100 points – the first ever for an Italian red wine. The Redigaffi became a legend, the epitome of Tuscan Merlot mastery, compared to Pétrus and Masseto – and yet entirely its own, shaped by the metal-rich hills of the Maremma, by loam and clay, by its proximity to the sea … The vines grow in the middle section, where the clay content is highest – the very place where Merlot achieves its greatest density. Hand-selected in three passes, using only fully ripe grapes. Vinification involves a long maceration, followed by eighteen to twenty months in new French barriques, then several months in the bottle before the wine leaves the estate.

First bottled in 1967, Roncaglie (formerly Barbaresco Masseria) comes from a vineyard in Bricco di Neive and is essentially vinified and aged like a Barolo. Since the 2018 vintage, it now comes from a small parcel that used to belong to the Socré Barbaresco winery and is now deliberately released a year later to ensure greater harmony and balance. Floral and spicy notes merge with a core of rich, generous fruit in a generous Barbaresco based on pure resonance. Barbaresco Roncaglie is vinified and matured in the same way as Vietti's single-vineyard Barolos. This means long fermentation, six months in French oak and more than two years in barrique. This, together with the broad shoulders of Neive, results in a noble Nebbiolo with clear hints of Barolo and impressive depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Three years after the Annata, Romano and his sons launch a small edition of the same vintage in large formats. The 2015 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is a particularly elegant, pretty and typical expression of the Dal Forno style. Black cherries dipped in rum, plum sauce, brown spices and a hint of cocoa rise from the glass. Silky and polished, it seamlessly washes over the palate with ripe red and blackcurrants, while leaving minerals and a fine layer of tannins behind. Spicy acids add tension as the wine tapers off in a structured way, with notes of mocha and mentholated herbs that linger. SUPERIORE.DE

2016 was not an easy year in Valpolicella – and Romano Dal Forno still delivered. That sounds obvious, but it's not: in years like 1992, 2005, 2007 or 2014, there was simply no Amarone. That is the currency in which trust is bought here. Dal Forno Romano has its own clock ticking for the release of the large bottles: they come onto the market three years after the 0.75 litre bottle. What this means for 2016 is obvious. After six weeks of appassimento, 36 months in new barriques and long maturation in the large format, this Valpolicella has reached a level of maturity that only the large glass can appreciate.

Cellar master Rudi Kofler once put it this way: he was searching for a wine that embodied the very essence and authentic character of the Cantina Terlan. A wine that embodies the greatness of the finest vines and vineyard sites. The result is the Terlan I Grande Cuvée – since 1893 the quiet flagship of a cooperative that has proven that depth and time are not a matter of ownership. Terlan lies in the Adige Valley, sheltered in the shadow of the Tschöggelberg, on the southern foothills of the Alps. What distinguishes the soil beneath the vines from all other soils in South Tyrol is a geological phenomenon: beneath Terlan lies a subvolcanic rock formation whose composition differs fundamentally from that of classic volcanic rock. Over millions of years, a unique crystalline conglomerate formed within it – an unusually high concentration of minerals that the soil passes on to the roots. No calcium carbonate, a slightly acidic pH, sandy porphyry weathered soils: "stress minerality" as the principle, salinity as the result.

Ornato 2021 comes from the single vineyard of the same name in Serralunga d'Alba, exposed to the south – a cru with a distinctive altitude and calcareous soils that captures the depth and power of the Barolo region like no other. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a cool spring, a stable summer without extreme heat and a long, dry autumn. These conditions allowed the Nebbiolo to ripen slowly and evenly, giving the grapes aromatic complexity with full phenolic ripeness. The wine was fermented traditionally after a long maceration period and then matured for around 30 months in French oak – partly in tonneau and partly in barrique.