Formats

Il Randagio (the stray) is wonderfully complex and nuanced. Initially quite closed, the delicately spicy nose creeps up with increasing aeration and opens further into a wonderfully complex bouquet of dark red to black berries. Rising floral, savoury and spicy accents point to a wine that says more about the style of the house than anything else. The palate is wide-ranging with delicate wild berry flavours, perfectly polished tannins and a fresh, very invigorating acid wire that uninhibitedly enhances the drinkability of this once again typically different red. The best days of this wine still lie in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

Maneo – i stay, I wait. What sounds like a silent promise in Latin becomes a philosophy at Enrico Serafino: this Gavi only leaves the winery five years after the harvest. While other Cortese wines have long since been drunk, the Maneo matures quietly – first on its fine lees in stainless steel, then in the bottle until time has done its work. The grapes come from the best parcels in the heart of the appellation, where clay and limestone-rich soils with a low pH value give the Cortese the tension that distinguishes it from the pleasing everyday white. Vinification follows the credo of maximum care: hand-picking, sorting on a vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow to prevent oxidation. The grapes are gently pressed and some of the grapes are left to macerate overnight at cool temperatures – a touch of extraction that gives the wine substance without jeopardising its elegance.

An old, disused railway line runs through the countryside of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. It no longer goes anywhere – the rails are rusting, the land is slowly becoming overgrown. But it still exists as a border. It separates the Contrada Cottanera from the Contrada Diciasettesalme. And it gives this wine its precise geographical name: "beyond the railway". Diciasettesalme is one of the oldest vineyard names in Etna viticulture. Its name comes from a historical Sicilian unit of measurement – the salma, an area that a mule could plough in one day. Seventeen of these correspond to around 25 hectares. On this land, Nerello Mascalese grows on black lava sands and clay-rich volcanic soils at an altitude of 750 to 800 metres – one of the coolest and most exposed sites in the entire appellation area.

Piancornello's Brunello di Montalcino 2019 is initially elegantly restrained with rosy flowers, nuances of cherry and worn leather, contrasted by a hint of sour citrus fruit. It then impresses on the palate with a silky texture and cool radiance, while the lively acidity brings out ripe red berries and minerals. The finish is structured, very savoury with notes of plum and liquorice that linger incredibly long under a hint of violet-tinged flowers. A beautiful, taut and firm Brunello from an equally beautiful vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive), introduced in 2021, on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a genuine added value.

Gaia Gaja overheard two farmers in the vineyard. "Idda's in a bad mood today," said one. "Yes, I don't like it when I don't know what Idda's up to," replied the other. When Gaia asked who this Idda was, Alberto Graci explained: "That's what we call the mountain. Mount Etna. Feminine, capricious and maternal all at once – a force you live with and rely on every day." Angelo Gaja had known Mount Etna long before it became a project. In the 1990s, his friend Giacomo Tachis tried to persuade him to buy vineyards here. The sight of the black volcano with its snow-capped peak, seen from the air, remained etched in his memory. Decades later, he founded Idda together with Alberto Graci – making a conscious decision to focus on Carricante and to rediscover the south-western slope, that side of Etna often described as a 'counter-current', away from the more famous northern flank.

This is where it all began. In Viagrande, on the south-eastern slope of Mount Etna, where Giuseppe Benanti's grandfather planted the first vines at the end of the 19th century, lies the heart of the estate. The Contrada Monte Serra is no ordinary vineyard – it rises on an extinct volcanic cone that once erupted independently of the main crater, and whose pyroclastic deposits created a unique soil: light, rich in mineral matter, with exceptional drainage. At an altitude of just 450 metres, closer to the Ionian Sea than the other Contrade, the grapes ripen earlier here and develop a softer, more approachable elegance. The vines – some over 100 years old – are trained in the traditional "alberello" style on small terraces with dry stone walls made of lava rock, at an extremely high density of 9,000 vines per hectare. The sandy volcanic soils are rich in "ripiddu", the characteristic small pumice fragments found on Mount Etna.

Bright, powerful ruby colour, aromas of cherry, redcurrant, cocoa and tar. Juicy, spicy and bright, with firm acidity and taut tannins that give it definition and lift to the flavours. Very fresh and precise, persistent and smooth. It has outstanding potential. If you taste the decades-old wines from Mastroberardino (dating back to 1928), it becomes clear: these wines are monumental, immortal or at least for eternity. SUPERIORE.DE

From the vineyards near the historic villa, where the woods stretch right down to the sea, springs a visionary interpretation of Vermentino – a wine that sheds a completely new light on the inexhaustible potential of this ancient grape variety. Scenario embodies Tenuta Argentiera's five years of research – a meticulous exploration of Vermentino's evolutionary potential, which culminated in various vinification and ageing experiments between 2020 and 2022. High up at 260 feet above sea level, in small plots near the sheltering woods, where sea breezes meet centuries-old pine trees, the grapes for this exceptional Bolgheri Bianco ripen. Just 8,000 bottles are produced annually from this carefully curated single-varietal Vermentino – a precious testament to those unique microclimates between the sea and the Mediterranean scrub.

Sibi et paucis – "for oneself and a select few". Under this Latin motto, the Sandrone family sets aside a small portion of its Nebbiolo production each year to be aged in the perfect conditions of its own wine cellar. The Valmaggiore is given four years' additional ageing beyond the regular release – time that allows the Nebbiolo from the Roero to develop in a way that requires nothing but patience.

Mare Antico pays homage to the marine fossils and shells found in the soils of Orvieto. It wafts up like a cool breeze from a mountain peak, its intriguing bouquet blending crushed rock with raw almonds, a hint of sage, ginger and flint. Mare Antico flows across the palate with skilful ease, long and citrus-driven. It also possesses a lovely inner sweetness, contrasted by candied lime and salty minerals. It finishes with structure and crispness, featuring a crisp green apple and a lingering acidity that leaves you craving the next sip.

Bruno Giacosa bought his first winery in 1982. Until then, he had worked exclusively with bought-in grapes for four decades – and yet made wines that are still considered a reference today. The genius of Neive was convinced that it was not the ownership of a vineyard that was decisive, but the ability to get the best out of the fruit. If you recognise the right grapes, you don't need your own hectare. The Spumante is the purest distillate of this philosophy. The Pinot Nero grapes come from Casteggio in the Oltrepò Pavese – the Pinot territory south of Milan that Giacosa has always treasured. Foreign origin, own signature. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel, no malolactic fermentation – the freshness remains intact. Then classic bottle fermentation, at least 30 months sur lie. Dosage 3.5 g/litre. Disgorgement only when the wine is ready.

Dark and seductive with a blend of crushed plums, brown spices, cedar and a hint of cocoa. Its textures are like pure silk bordering on velvet, with a gentle blend of ripe cherries and redcurrants, underlined by salty minerals, while notes of citrus contrast towards the end. A web of fine tannin runs through the final, creating a gentle textural pull that balances balsamic herbs and a hint of mocha as blue and violet-coloured flowers slowly fade away. SUPERIORE.DE

South of Bolgheri, where the pine trees stand like sentinels and the salty breath of the Tyrrhenian Sea permeates every breath, the vineyards stretch out on sandy, gravel-rich soils. Here, at just 50 metres above sea level, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc find ideal conditions – a composition that deliberately swims against the current of the usual Bolgheri cuvées.

Mazon is known as Italy's Grand Cru of Pinot Nero – warm, brooding, concentrated. What few people realise: The plateau has a downside. At the northernmost tip, where the terrain rises to 430 to 460 metres and the downdraughts become cooler, lies the Vigna Herbsthöfl – the highest and coolest parcel of the entire Barthenau estate. Here, vines from a special selection of the neighbouring Vigna Roccolo grow on calcareous, slightly sandy glacial deposits – a soil that gives the wine a minerality and lightness that the classic Mazon profile does not recognise. The Herbsthöfl was vinified separately for the first time in 2022 – the latest "Vigna" wine in the Hofstätter portfolio. It is no coincidence that Martin Foradori-Hofstätter immediately declared it a Riserva: the parcel has the format, and the vintage provided the quality. Harvested entirely by hand, completely destemmed, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage, followed by barrique, concrete, bottle – the same care as its big brother S. Urbano, but with a different response: fresher, more transparent, finer in texture.

"This is a project with which I am still celebrating the beginning of my adventure as a winemaker, which is why this Riserva bears my name. Valgella is the region where my exciting journey began, and this wine not only bears my signature, but also pays tribute to the steep slopes from which we have wrested its fruit with its elegant shyness."

In 1400, the Duke of Milan gifted Captain Stefano Quadrio a castle in Chiuro. Quadrio became governor of the Valtellina, planted vines, sold wine and had cellars built on four levels beneath the house. Just under five hundred years later, in 1897, Nino Negri arrived from Aprica, married Amelia Galli and established a winery in the same village. The old cellars still exist today, and they are an integral part of the wine: Castel Chiuro matures there in barrels and bottles for at least ten years. It is produced only in the finest vintages.

Our pure enthusiasm for this authentic and wonderfully traditional Chianti Classico, which the likeable Monica Raspi and her family have been presenting to us for years: bright ruby red, finely spiced, with refined fruit depth, well-proportioned flavour, powerful, crisp structure, classic acidity and Sangiovese style, racy and mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

Cortona is only thirty kilometres from Montepulciano – and yet it is a different world. Here, on the high plateau with its dense Pliocene clays and iron oxide soils, around 300 metres above sea level, Merlot grows as if it had never been at home anywhere else. Federico Carletti recognised the potential early on – and In Violas was created in 2006. This was catalysed by his friendship with the Aliotti Tommasi family, owners of the same land. A Merlot that Carletti himself calls "con un'anima toscana". With a Tuscan soul. 100% Merlot, certified organic, 5,600 vines per hectare. Hand-picked, careful selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, fermentation and maceration in conical vats for 18 to 22 days, ageing in large oak barrels.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Deep, rich ruby colour. Impressive nose of ripe berries, ripe cherries and delicate graphite nuances. Aromatic and extremely flavoursome on the palate, with a spicy, animating arc. Fine tannins. Well-balanced with a gentle structure that frames the palate until the lively finish. A true Tuscan insider tip with a great value. SUPERIORE.DE

Giuseppe Benanti founded his winery in 1988; ten years later, he moved to Viagrande, the area from which his grandfather had originally come. On the south-eastern flank of Mount Etna, Monte Serra, an ancient volcanic cone, rises up. It was formed by an eruption through its own vent, separate from Etna's magma chamber, and left behind light ejecta: sandy volcanic soil with small pieces of pumice, so well-drained that the roots must dig deep in search of water. At altitudes of 450 to 500 metres, the vineyard is predominantly planted with young Carricante vines, trained in a bush style, at a density of around 8,000 per hectare. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. After destemming and gentle pressing, the must ferments for around 15 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks, using a yeast strain that Benanti has selected itself in the vineyard following years of research. Twelve months on the fine lees, with regular stirring, followed by six months' ageing in the bottle.

Some names carry history. Pupillo was originally the label for a Merlot vineyard planted in 2004, which did not fulfil the company's ambitions – too young, too impetuous, not ripe for the demands of Ronco del Gnemiz. Since then, the name has been dormant, reserved for vintages in which the family decided that the wines did not quite reach the standards of the legendary Rosso del Gnemiz. 2023 is one such year.