Falstaff

Davide Rosso had long since successfully written the Serralunga chapter when he rode up Etna for the first time in 2014. He was not looking for a second mainstay. He was looking for a terroir that would challenge him – as the limestone marl of Serralunga had once challenged him. He found it on the northern slope of the volcano, in the Solicchiata fraction, and bought a 14-hectare estate in Contrada Montedolce in 2016. An old palmento, lava soil, 750 metres above sea level. But he didn't stop there. In 2023, he acquired two more hectares in Contrada Pietra Marina – one of the best white vineyards in the entire Etna region, historically famous for the quality of its Carricante, directly influenced by the nearby Alcantara River. The soils here are a unique mixture: volcanic sand and ash, enriched by fluvial silt and sandstone, shaped by thousands of years of tectonic and hydraulic forces. No other piece of land on Etna offers this specific dual character – volcanic energy and mineral river coolness in one vineyard.

Franchetti Rosso is Passopisciaro's flagship wine and a stunningly perfect wine. The grapes come from 1000-metre-high northern Etna vineyard sites, where the soils are ash and pumice. Franchetti is a ripe, exotic wine that envelops the palate with dark fruit. Refined tannins support the fruit, while an intense inner sweetness adds elegance and finesse. A thoroughly outstanding drop. SUPERIORE.DE

First bottled in 1967, Roncaglie (formerly Barbaresco Masseria) comes from a vineyard in Bricco di Neive and is essentially vinified and aged like a Barolo. Since the 2018 vintage, it now comes from a small parcel that used to belong to the Socré Barbaresco winery, and it is now deliberately brought to market a year later to ensure greater harmony and balance.

Cepparello – named after the small stream that rises at the highest point of the Isole e Olena vineyards. This name has borne the revolutionary vision of Paolo De Marchi since 1980, when 100 per cent Sangiovese was still a taboo in Chianti Classico. With this wine, the Piedmontese visionary not only created one of the first Supertuscans, but also probably the most authentic portrait of the Sangiovese grape – pure, uncompromising, unadulterated. The Sangiovese vines grow on the characteristic Galestro soils from the estate's best sites, exposed to the south-west at an altitude of 400 to 480 metres. These slatey clay soils give the wine its unmistakable minerality and elegance. The 2020 embodies De Marchi's signature style in its purest form. A mild, dry winter and a drop in temperature in March, which required extreme vigilance against frost damage, was followed by a classic Tuscan summer. Dry and mild until the end of August, then scattered rainfall before the weather calmed down in September – ideal conditions for grapes of exceptional quality and quantity.

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.

Brunello Giovanni Neri exudes all the outstanding qualities of the raw material and the winemaker's craft. Man and nature unite here in perfect precision and harmony. Its balance is exquisite. Strong cherry and blackberry notes are followed by crushed minerals, liquorice, smoke and slightly fragrant cedar wood notes. The wine spreads evenly and powerfully on the palate, and its flavour intensity can be counted on for many minutes. Giovanni Neri Brunello is wonderfully concentrated and rich, but never too heavy or even too dense. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Neri died in 1986, fifteen years after buying Podere Casanova. He had lived the dream – but not long enough to see what became of it. His son Giacomo and his grandsons Giovanni and Gianlorenzo continue to live his dream. And on the fiftieth anniversary of the first vineyard, they dedicated a wine to the founder that bears his name – and his attitude: the belief that Montalcino can do more than the world thought at the time. The vineyard is old and untamed, as the estate itself puts it – vines over fifty years old that have never stopped taking deep roots.

Chiara Boschi's Cannubi 2020 beguiles on the nose with layers of fragrant fruit. A sensual Barolo and yet quite typical in its vineyard character. Soft, silky tannins frame the long finish. A wonderful wine, characterised by its balance and above all by the sweetness of its tannins. Very full-bodied, focussed and with great length. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cannubi 2021 is a great wine that emphasises the classic beauty of Nebbiolo and the top vintage. This wine is like a statue of a Greek goddess with perfect proportions and feminine aesthetics. The bouquet is multi-layered, with bright fruits, white pepper, mint, orange peel and spicy liquorice. The tannins are polished and fine, with a hint of the characteristic limestone chalk that you sometimes taste in Cannubi. The lively acidity rounds off this extremely elegant, fresh and graceful wine. Very full-bodied and focussed, with great length and great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In 2021, the Nonino family presented the Nonino Riserva Aged 20 Years grappa matured under customs seal. There are 664 numbered bottles.

Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva DOCG 2018 is a monument to precision craftsmanship and at the same time a rare one-off: it comes from a pure planting of the historic Nebbiolo variety Nebbiolo Rosé – an independent, genetically distinct variety that almost disappeared from the Barolo vineyards over the course of the 20th century. Elvio Cogno and his family have consciously preserved this rare grape variety in the Vigna Elena monopoly position. The parcel is located in the upper Ravera zone near Novello, on poor, calcareous and clayey soils with optimal south-west exposure. The result is low yields, late-ripening grapes and a distinctive style: lighter colour, beguiling floral depth, fine, almost silky tannins and enormous aromatic precision.

"Santa Caterina d'Oro" – the golden chalice of Siena, named after the award that Giuseppe Bianchini received three times as Winemaker of the Year before he died in 2004, shortly before the completion of the new wine cellar that he was never to see. But his legacy lives on: this Riserva is only produced in exceptional years – only ten times since 1995. The 2019 vintage is one of Montalcino's "modern-day greats": A warm summer followed by a cool autumn, which delayed the harvest from 11 September to 4 October and produced that magical balance between ripeness and freshness that characterises great vintages. From the oldest plots of the Pianrosso vineyard – those eleven hectares between 240 and 360 metres, where the iron-rich Galestro soils preserve volcanic heritage – the grapes for this monumental wine. After rigorous selection in the vineyard and in the cellar, it matures for 48 months in large Slovenian barrels, followed by a further twelve months in the bottle.

Allegrini's top-quality Riserva Fieramonte is deeply concentrated and almost black in the glass. The palate is firm and equally concentrated, with dense waves of dark fruit, spices, toast and cinnamon. The aromatic panorama of this wine is impressive, its dimension, depth and texture make it one of the greatest wines of the appellation. Wow! SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Allegrini used to describe his vineyard in a way that no Oenologist would ever use: "The morning sun, dispelling the shadows of the night, awakens nature and gently caresses the grapes." He was proud of this slope – “The wild mountain” – because its eastern exposure ensures that the first light of day hits the grapes before the heat arrives. A consistent ripening, subtle and patient, like everything that aims to be truly good. Fieramonte is the estate’s highest and most demanding vineyard. Corvina Veronese provides the structure and red fruit. Corvinone the body. Rondinella the freshness. And Oseleta – one of the rarest, oldest Veronese grape varieties – almost forgotten, preserved by Allegrini – adds a dark, tannic complexity that no other wine from the appellation possesses to the same degree.

Angelo Gaja's 2021 Barbaresco is a wine with poise and grace that has a lot to offer. Expressive spicy and floral notes are the first to open up, but what really stands out is the wine's nuance and delineation. The transparency is unmistakable. Sweet red cherries, mint, cinnamon and rose petals develop in the glass and add further nuances. The flavour is balanced and spicy, the tannins firm and the finish precise and long. This muscular monument of a red wine definitely needs a few more years of bottle ageing, with a little patience it will transform into pure elegance. Put simply, the 2021 is one of the best Gaja Barbarescos of recent times. SUPERIORE.DE

Dark, concentrated ruby red colour. Complex on the nose with an abundance of ripe red and black berry fruit aromas, including sour cherry, blackcurrant and elderberry, followed by notes of dried violets, sweet spices, liquorice, cocoa powder, mentholated tobacco and eucalyptus. Rich and multi-layered on the palate, powerful and soft with youthful but well-integrated tannins and excellent acidity. Only reveals its large reservoir of impressions after some aeration. Very long on the finish, great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In the treasure troves of time, where ancient wisdom meets modern vision, Petruna Anfora is born – a tribute to the origins of viticulture and at the same time a revolutionary expression of pure Sangiovese. The hand-picked grapes for this extraordinary experiment in clay and time come from the unique single vineyard Casa al Coltro, where slate soils at an altitude of 350 metres force the vines to achieve the utmost concentration.

Mazon is known as Italy's Grand Cru of Pinot Nero – warm, brooding, concentrated. What few people realise: The plateau has a downside. At the northernmost tip, where the terrain rises to 430 to 460 metres and the downdraughts become cooler, lies the Vigna Herbsthöfl – the highest and coolest parcel of the entire Barthenau estate. Here, vines from a special selection of the neighbouring Vigna Roccolo grow on calcareous, slightly sandy glacial deposits – a soil that gives the wine a minerality and lightness that the classic Mazon profile does not recognise. The Herbsthöfl was vinified separately for the first time in 2022 – the latest "Vigna" wine in the Hofstätter portfolio. It is no coincidence that Martin Foradori-Hofstätter immediately declared it a Riserva: the parcel has the format, and the vintage provided the quality. Harvested entirely by hand, completely destemmed, fermentation in concrete vats with remontage, followed by barrique, concrete, bottle – the same care as its big brother S. Urbano, but with a different response: fresher, more transparent, finer in texture.

Luce Brunello is dark and impenetrable, as always in its more international style. On the palate, it delivers ripe and round fruit flavours of blackberries and plums with plenty of opulence, power and breed. SUPERIORE.DE

The heartfelt project "Archivio Storico Zenato" was brought to life by Nadia Zenato in order to pay special attention to the excellence of an entire region. Just 2,000 0.75-litre bottles and 400 magnums are sold in selected specialist shops.

Silky, open and graceful, it is characterised by outstanding elegance and the finesse typical of the northern sector of Montalcino. Rose petals, sweet red berries and graceful, minty notes adorn the palate in a sensual, silky Brunello that exudes its class and pedigree from the very first sip. The traditional Marroneto style with fine-grained tannins and subtle salty notes contrasts excitingly with the classic structure and extract sweetness. A great wine! SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that tell stories. And then there are wines that are a story themselves. Kupra belongs to the second category. Its roots go deeper than the hundred-year-old Alberello vines from which it is made – they go back to Sardinian shepherds who travelled from Maremma across Lake Trasimeno to Apulia on their transhumance, bringing with them a grape variety they called "su burdu": the bastard, the foundling, the one who does not belong. Marco Casolanetti discovered this almost forgotten plot of land in the early 2000s, right next to his Montepulciano vines near Cupra Marittima – and immediately recognised that something special lay dormant here.

Barolo Cerequio unfolds its cornucopia of cherries, ripe red berries, violets, leather and tar only after many minutes in the glass. Firm and powerful on the palate - shows an impressive and firm structure, yet the wine remains delicate, mineral and full of finesse throughout. It is perhaps the most balanced of Roberto Voerzio's top wines, and even if it appears quite accessible at a young age, it will only reveal its true potential and class in many years. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Brunate is a breathtaking expression of great complexity and finesse. The wine has a lively garnet red colour with a balanced and intense bouquet: sage, mint, undergrowth, tar, tobacco and liquorice nuances give Brunate a striking aromatic complexity. At the heart of the bouquet, as well as on the palate, there is plenty of dark fruit, including blackcurrants and plums. Gains breadth with time in the glass and the already fine tannins will certainly become even smoother with further ageing in the bottle. A Barolo with real presence and stature and for us the most accessible Barolo in Voerzio's exceptional collection! SUPERIORE.DE