cult wines

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

Since its debut in 1988, Il Blu has been the result of constant striving for perfection. With ultra-fine tannins and a smooth and full finish, this full-bodied wine captivates with its complexity and elegance. Il Blu is made from only the best hand-picked and selected grapes from the two vineyards in the Chianti region. Although Sangiovese plays a leading role in the blend, its influence and signature contribute significantly to the overall identity of this special wine.

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is inspected, every vine, every plot. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala realised just how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that give Percarlo its character date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.

In 1961, Alfredo Currado made history. Together with Prunotto's Bussia, Vietti released the first single-vineyard Barolo of the modern era – Rocche di Castiglione. Ever since, this vineyard has been inextricably linked with the Vietti name. Rocche is situated in Castiglione Falletto, directly opposite the winery, on the most exposed ridge in the municipality: soils from both geological periods – the Tortonian and the Serravalian – lie in a rare stratification one above the other, facing south to south-west, at an altitude of 250 to 320 metres. A transitional location between the elegance of the western communes and the power of the Serralunga style. The result is a Barolo of aristocratic poise – superbly structured, without ever being ostentatious. 20 days' maceration, malolactic fermentation in used barriques, 24 months in large wooden casks. In 2022, Vietti harvested earlier than usual – the Rocche retains heat differently to the lower-lying areas and required different decisions.

It was in 1988 that Bruno and Brigitte Widmer dared to dream a bold dream that would change the world of Tuscan wine forever. Their Il Blu – named after the timeless blue label with its orange capsule – became an icon for an entire generation of Super Tuscans, a manifesto of modernity amidst centuries-old traditions. Today, after more than three decades of refinement, the certified organic Il Blu 2022 embodies Barbara Widmer's visionary continuity. What once began as a Sangiovese-dominated blend has evolved, thanks to the ever-increasing complexity of the Merlot vines from Radda – now over thirty years old – into a blend comprising 80% Merlot, with 10% each of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Vietti's Brunate parcels are located on the La Morra side of the cru site. It was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred directly to large oak barrels for ageing. Barolo Brunate is a powerful and vertical wine, endowed with enormous explosive energy and intensity. It offers engaging and penetrating aromas of cedar wood, red cherry, blood orange, sage flowers and rose. On the palate, its austere personality is evident and any connoisseur will realise that it needs a few more years in the bottle to develop. Dense and multi-layered, with great depth, chewy tannins and lingering red berries, this is already a fantastically complete wine. SUPERIORE.DE

A plot of land next to the house, with olive trees, vines and oak trees: this is how a document from the family archive describes the Siepi vineyard, and the estate counts it amongst the oldest documented vineyards in Italy. The land has belonged to the Mazzei family since 1435. Sangiovese from here provided cuttings for other winegrowers, and the mass selection that defines Fonterutoli's heritage began in this vineyard. In the early 1980s, the family then planted Merlot here – according to the estate, one of the first in Chianti Classico to do so – and the soil had the final say. The first vintage followed in 1992.

Camarcanda is a rich Bolgheri Rosso Superiore with a dark bouquet of black fruit, espresso, chocolate, liquorice and tar. The palate is extremely full-bodied, with outstanding depth, dense structure and a firm body. Opulent and long, this wine already shows a wide range of personality. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Testamatta are selected and sourced from the winery's 6 best vineyards: Vincigliata, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Each vineyard, which is divided into plots, is harvested up to 8 times to ensure that all the grapes are picked at the perfect point of ripeness. These five vineyards (up to 80 years old) are located in different areas of Tuscany: Lamole and Montefili in the heart of Chianti Classico at 600 and 400 metres above sea level, Vincigliata near Florence at 280 metres above sea level, Londa north of Florence towards the Rufina Valley and Siena, in the south of Tuscany, at 250 metres above sea level.

Barolo Cerequio comes from vines that are over 35 years old. The vineyards were acquired by Michele Chiarlo in the 2010s through fortunate circumstances. Opens with aromas of freshly halved cherries, which are joined by a mixture of cloves, allspice and vanilla, while fresh roses are almost close at hand. On the palate, concentrated and lush plums and mixed berries, while black tea, liquorice and subtle earthy flavours gradually emerge. In the mid-palate, the tannins are still clearly noticeable, but with a little time all parts will be in balance. This wine is already a poem today, but its very best days will come with some bottle ageing! SUPERIORE.DE

The vines for Sant'Andrea are rooted at an altitude of around 900 metres in the Contrada of the same name north-east of Solicchiata – one of the highest and coolest wine villages on Etna. It is a place with dramatic vegetation, fog banks, ancient lava layers and unpredictable temperature changes. Here, Carricante develops a completely independent, almost ascetic character. The grapes come from a tiny parcel of old vines, which Pietradolce cultivates with painstaking manual labour. The wine is matured with calm consistency: spontaneous fermentation in large oak barrels, followed by maturation on the fine lees for 12 months in tonneau, then bottle ageing.

The rarity wine symbolises Terlan's longevity: "A speciality of the Cantina Terlan are the rarities, special bottlings of mature white wines that have been stored for at least ten years on the fine lees in steel pressure tanks. The youthful freshness that characterises this Pinot Blanc despite its mature age is particularly impressive, making it perfect for longer ageing in the bottle. Terlan has the terroir to produce great white wines and skilfully demonstrates this with these rarities." Rudi Kofler, Kellermeister

Troy is no ordinary Chardonnay. Rather, it is the archetype of a Chardonnay, as Wolfgang Klotz, managing director of what is probably the most successful winegrowers' cooperative in South Tyrol, sees it. The grapes come from two selected vineyards in Söll, near Tramin. The climate there is not only Mediterranean, but the vegetation is also characterised by rather cold downdraughts at night. Both factors guarantee optimal development of the plants and fruit. The berries are hand-picked one by one, so it is clear to any wine connoisseur that this is an absolutely prestigious project for the co-operative. It is therefore not surprising that only 3,000 bottles of this grape variety are sold in selected specialist shops and top restaurants.

In the late 1980s, Luca Sanjust planted the first Merlot clones in the clay-rich soils of Feriale, unaware that he was in the process of creating a legend. The name Galatrona – once the estate of the Tuscan dynasty, whose medieval watchtower towers over the ten-hectare vineyard – was to become synonymous with Italian Merlot perfection. "The Le Pin of Tuscany", as Wine Spectator calls it, yet at a fraction of the price of that legendary Pomerol. The 50,000 vines on south-east-facing terraces combine Bordeaux genetics with a Tuscan soul. Clay retains the moisture that Merlot needs during the hot summers, whilst slate, marl and sandstone provide the mineral complexity.

The rarity wine symbolises Terlan's longevity: "A speciality of the Cantina Terlan are the rarities, special bottlings of mature white wines that have been stored for at least ten years on the fine lees in steel pressure tanks. The youthful freshness that characterises this Pinot Blanc despite its mature age is particularly impressive, making it perfect for longer ageing in the bottle. Terlan has the terroir to produce great white wines and skilfully demonstrates this with these rarities." Rudi Kofler, Kellermeister

In the vast universe of Italian wine, we can name only a few red wines that inspire as much fascination, even awe, as those of Josko Gravner. And so Rosso Breg should not be missing from our list of Italy's greatest red wines. Today's 2009 fermented for more than a year on its skins in wooden barrels, then in underground amphorae, after which it matured for five years in barrel and five more in bottle before being released. And yet it is the youngest red wine ever released from Josko's cellar!

In 1990, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust planted a small plot of Merlot, intended as a blending component for the Torrione, not as a wine in its own right. Fate had other ideas: in 1994, the harvest from this plot was overlooked; the grapes were left on the vine for too long, and, unsure of their quality, the family vinified them separately. That very autumn, the young critic James Suckling was a guest in Mercatale Valdarno and was so impressed by the barrel that he urged Luca Sanjust to bottle the wine undiluted. And so, from an overlooked vineyard, the Galatrona was born, whose 2024 vintage now marks the 30th vintage since that unintended initial success.

There is one date worth remembering: 1967. In that year, former cellar master Sebastian Stocker placed the first white wines in pressure tanks that were actually intended for sparkling wine. There was no market for South Tyrolean sparkling wine, but there was an idea: what happens if a white wine rests on its fine lees not for months, but for years – even decades? Stocker wanted to find out. His successors have refined the answer. Rudi Kofler, cellar master since 2002, has elevated it to a philosophy. The Rarity is the result of this patience. Outstanding vintages are first aged for twelve to fifteen months in large wooden barrels – then they are transferred to smallLiters,Liters, where they rest undisturbed on their fine lees: ten years, fifteen years, sometimes longer. Until Kofler decides that the time is right.

At the beginning of the 20th century, La Fabriseria referred to the parish council of Sant'Ambrogio, the Fabbriceria, commissioned to build a new church. Grandfather Riccardo Tedeschi was one of the Fabbriceri – and it was customary for each councillor to bring his best wine to the meeting. At the end, a toast was made to God and good work. This rite sealed contracts and friendships; today it seals one of the most precious wines of the house. In 2000, the family acquired the seven-hectare vineyard in Le Pontare, between Fumane and Sant'Ambrogio, and planted it with exceptional density: 7,200 vines per hectare in Guyot training, at an altitude of 450 metres with a view of the entire valley, Verona and Lake Garda. The soil tells of the Cretaceous period: pink-white limestone marl, rich in calcium carbonate and iron oxide, interspersed with grey-yellow clay slate – a terrain that provides structure and balance, aromatic complexity and longevity.

Vietti's Brunate parcels are located on the La Morra side of the cru site. It was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred directly to large oak barrels to mature. Vietti's Brunate 2021 shows blue flowers, wild berries, wild cherry and truffle-infused earth. It reveals a slender but open-knit quality that can be felt in the mouth. This softness or textural silkiness continues for many long minutes with hints of mint, liquorice and camphor ash carefully distributed along the way. The tannins are polished and long. Very elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Mazzei's top wine Siepi is not only an outstanding Tuscan wine every year, but also a 6-hectare vineyard in the middle of dense oak forests with an ideal altitude and a unique climate. The sunshine is optimal throughout the day and a constant breeze from the west prevents excessive heat and creates a mild, Mediterranean climate. The oak forests also provide an ideal protective barrier against extreme weather conditions. Rocky soils of marl, limestone and clay from the Pliocene period ensure a special balance of elements in this geological complex.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cerequio comes from vines that are over 35 years old. The vineyards were acquired by Michele Chiarlo in the 2010s through fortunate circumstances. The 2021 vintage confirms once again that the purchase of this vineyard was one of the smartest decisions Vietti has ever made. Cerequio is a wine of nuance and class that reflects the entire pedigree of this great site. Crushed red berry fruit, cherry, blood orange, spice and mint rise from the glass, framed by nervy tannins that convey classicism. An exotic, racy Barolo. SUPERIORE.DE