wines

The south-eastern tip of Montalcino – near Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 350 to 380 metres, surrounded by oak forests and olive groves – is known for Brunello of extraordinary elegance. On this marl-limestone soil with layers of clay, where sea breezes and the cool nights of Monte Amiata speak the same language, the Spina family has spent four decades quietly building up a vineyard that produces more from a few hectares than some do from twenty. The Rosso di Montalcino is Sesta di Sopra's finger pointing: what is possible when Brunello is still waiting. Fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tanks, maturation in French barriques – more accessible and fresher than its big brother, but with the same roots, the same limestone, the same signature. The difference lies in the timing, not the ambition.

The Nerello Mascalese vines of Contrada Montedolce were planted in 1975. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, north-northeast, 730 to 750 metres. Low yield, high concentration – a depth that younger plants simply cannot reach. 2021 was a dry, concentrated year on Mount Etna – and an exceptionally good one for the Nerello Mascalese: the vines struggled for water, the grapes remained small and the flavour became compact. Davide Rosso harvests by hand in mid-October, vinifies for ten days in stainless steel with daily pumping over and a délestage at half-time. The wine is matured in French oak barrels of various sizes – a deliberately flexible decision that leaves room for the vintage and the parcel to express themselves.

Fiano Pietraincatenata is the winery's flagship white wine and takes the grape variety to a whole new level. The bouquet is a fascinating blend of grapefruit, lime zest and peach with a hint of sweet smoke as it warms up in the glass. Silky yet savoury to the core on the palate. A cornucopia of citrus fruits and minerals completes the green apple fruit. Tense and invigorating as it progresses and finishes, but still well suited to further and exciting bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

Originating from the historic vineyards between Sassicaia and Ornellaia, Varvara honours the BaroneVarvàra Wrangler, great-grandmother of the current owner Count Federico Zileri Dal Verme. This classic Bordeaux assemblage of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, supplemented by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a hint of Petit Verdot, thrives on the chalky soils 70 metres above sea level. Twelve months of ageing in Liters barrels and large oak casks give the wine structure without over-extraction.

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

While the white Oudeis captures the complexity of the Alta Langa in its purest form, its pink-coloured brother adds another dimension: the soul of Pinot Nero. Because here it is the red grape alone that expresses the terroir. Saignée, the French word for "bloodletting", describes the method: a short maceration on the skins extracts just enough colour and fruit from the must to achieve that shimmering onion skin tone that shines so seductively in the glass. The grapes come from altitudes between 300 and 550 metres in the municipalities of Bubbio, Loazzolo, Trezzo Tinella and Vesime – the grapes come from calcareous clay soils, which give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting, the grapes are cooled with carbon dioxide snow and the must is left to rest for two to four hours under nitrogen before gentle pressing. This is followed by six months of bâtonnage and 36 months of yeast storage in the historic cellar vaults.

The organically grown Etna Rosso Reseca is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from a 1.5 hectare vineyard located at 800 metres above sea level on the blackened cone of the volcano. The wine offers both power and grace, the two contrasting qualities that characterise the great wines of Etna.

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

In the heart of the Colli Berici, where one of Italy's most mysterious wine landscapes stretches between Vicenza and Padua, Stefano Inama has been writing an extraordinary chapter in the European Carménère renaissance for three decades. What began in 1991 with a nameless sip from an unmarked glass – that legendary "love at first taste" –has developed into an obsessive passion that has made Inama the leading Carménère pioneer in Europe. Carminium, produced since 2015, is the younger sister of the iconic Oratorio di San Lorenzo and epitomises Inama's vision of a more accessible, yet complex expression of this almost forgotten Bordeaux variety. The history of this wine is inextricably linked to the Oratorio di San Lorenzo – the small 16th century chapel that sits enthroned in the middle of a twelve-hectare Carménère amphitheatre. Here, where monks once lived in unspoilt nature, the Carménère vines have reached a level of ripeness after fifteen years that allows Inama to vinify the neighbouring plots separately. The terroir is characterised by the red clay soils of the Colli Berici – iron-rich terra rossa on limestone subsoil, which gives the Carménère that unique balance between power and elegance that remains unattainable elsewhere.

Grenache travels far and takes on a different name everywhere: Garnacha in Spain, Cannonau in Sardinia, Alicante on the Tuscan coast. The same Mediterranean soul everywhere – light in colour, bright red fruit, effortless drinkability. On the coast, it is one of the oldest grape varieties; in Montebamboli it has been growing for over 22 years, exposed to the south-east, on iron-rich, acidic soils at an altitude of 371 metres. This combination changes the character. What sometimes tends to be broad in warm, flat areas finds its tension on the cool, windy slopes of the Parco dei Montioni. Open fermentation vats, 20 to 30% whole bunches depending on the vintage, 20 days of maceration at 20 to 25 °C with gentle extraction – then exclusively concrete, 6 to 9 months. No wood to mask the fruit.

The name says it all – and a piece of wine history. Maggiorina refers to a training system that is older than viticulture in the Langhe: three vines grow at the four cardinal points, a pre-Roman legacy perfected in the 19th century by Alessandro Antonelli, the architect of the Mole Antonelliana, born in nearby Maggiora. What sounds like a folkloristic detail today is reality: Christoph Künzli cultivates these 80 to 100-year-old vines exclusively by hand – machines have no access here. More than ten indigenous grape varieties, both red and white, come together in the glass: Croatina and Nebbiolo form the foundation, Vespolina, Erbaluce, Malvasia and almost forgotten varieties such as Durasa, Slarina and Rastajola complete the ensemble. After spontaneous fermentation and brief maceration, the wine matures for twelve months in stainless steel.

There are grape varieties that have to wait decades for a visionary to recognise their true potential. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo was one such forgotten variety until Gianni Masciarelli started a revolution in 1981 that changed the face of Abruzzo viticulture forever. He was the first producer in the region to introduce the Guyot training system and French barriques, driven by a philosophy he called "innovazione continua" – continuous innovation in the service of tradition. Today, the vineyards surrounding the historic Castello di Semivicoli combine the fruits of this vision with the poetry of a place that has itself experienced a rebirth. Here, between Gran Sasso and Majella at an altitude of 380 metres, two very special Trebbiano vineyards take root: one with vines over forty years old that still embody the original vigour of the variety, and a younger one that Gianni planted at the end of the 1990s using the modern Guyot system – a symbiosis of grown wisdom and innovative spirit.

Pure Sangiovese from western Tuscany is not comparable with the interpretations from Montalcino or Chianti Classico due to its cultivation near the coast, but this somewhat different facet is in no way inferior to the aforementioned. Saturated, light ruby red colour. Intense and complex bouquet of cherries, lilac and broom, densely woven on the palate with black cherries, spices and grilled herbs, the whole framed by a terrificfreshness and lightness. A supple and elegant wine whose well-balanced acid wire not only provides the necessary structure, but also the framework for a wonderful further ageing phase. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant golden yellow colour. Complex notes of light peach, fresh pineapple and poached apricot on the nose. Rich and creamy on the palate with accents of smoke and toasted almonds. The finish is long-lasting, mineral and herb-accentuated. This very focussed and complex white paints a beautiful portrait of the refined side of the Trebbiano di Lugana grape, which is becoming increasingly popular. SUPERIORE.DE

In the rolling hills of Castelnuovo Calcea lies the Montemareto vineyard, a privileged parcel in the heart of the Nice DOCG zone, where Michele Chiarlo has relied on old, low-yielding Barbera vines for decades. The 2021 vintage benefited from a balanced vegetation cycle: a mild spring, warm, dry summer months and cool September nights resulted in perfectly ripe, concentrated berries. A deep ruby red colour with violet hues shines in the glass. The bouquet opens with juicy black cherry, ripe plums and dark berries, underpinned by violets, liquorice and fine roasted aromas. On the palate, the Barbera is powerful and supple at the same time, with rich fruit, present but well-integrated acidity and a fine-grained tannin that lends structure. The long, harmonious finish carries notes of sweet tobacco, herbs and a subtle almond flavour. A Barbera wine of remarkable depth and balance – full of character, storable and a worthy ambassador of the Nice terroir. SUPERIORE.DE

Val di Cava – the valley of the quarries. A sober name for one of Montalcino's most precious addresses. The Abbruzzese family estate is located in the Montosoli area to the north of Montalcino – one of the coolest locations in the entire appellation, at around 350 metres, with a soil of galestro, limestone and clay, which gives the Sangiovese elegance, freshness and structure all in one. Bramante Abbruzzese bought the estate here in 1953. His grandson Vincenzo has turned it into one of the quiet legends of Brunello viticulture. The philosophy of the estate is clear and uncompromising: exclusively Sangiovese from its own vineyards, large Slavonian oak wood for ageing, no intervention that obscures the purity of the grape variety. The Rosso di Montalcino comes from the younger vines of the four single vineyards Filai Lunghi, Lago, Cipressi and Nova – the same Galestro-rich soils as the Brunello.

Since 1986, Gewürztraminer has been one of the founding wines of the legendary Sanct Valentin line – the top collection with which cellar master Hans Terzer once raised the bar for South Tyrolean premium wines. The winery selects only the best grapes for this wine from carefully chosen vineyards in the municipality of Eppan, where the grape variety finds ideal conditions on calcareous gravel between 450 and 600 metres above sea level. What characterises it, apart from its aromatic intensity, is its remarkable longevity – a characteristic that sets it apart from many other Gewürztraminer wines and promises a great drinking experience even after years of ageing in the bottle. The grapes are harvested by hand with rigorous selection. A short maceration is followed by gentle pressing before temperature-controlled fermentation begins. The wine is matured exclusively in stainless steel tanks.

In 1986, Hans Terzer dared to take the step of vinifying a Chardonnay modelled on Burgundy, which was to set international standards. The grapes for this wine, which has been the flagship of the Sanct Valentin line ever since, come from the best single vineyards in the municipality of Eppan, situated between 450 and 550 metres above sea level on calcareous gravel soils. Warm September days, cool nights – the microclimate of the South Tyrolean mountain vineyards gives the Chardonnay the aromatic depth and structure that allow it to mature from year to year. Each parcel is vinified separately. Fermentation begins in barriques, where malolactic fermentation also takes place, followed by eleven months on the fine lees – followed by a further eight months of ageing in steel tanks to perfect the balance between fruit, wood and minerality.

While Virgilio Bisti cultivates the reds – merlot, Cabernet, Syrah –Rita Tua has focussed on the whites. Lodano Bianco is her wine, her conviction: that in this climate and on these mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, a white wine with its own character can be created – from an assemblage that nobody would have expected in the Maremma. Traminer, Riesling and Chardonnay. Three grape varieties, three origin stories, one terroir. The vineyards near Suvereto lie on clay and mineral-rich soils, twelve kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Mistral wind from the Piombino Canal keeps the temperatures in balance, preserves the flavour and gives the white wine a freshness that is not a given at this latitude. Gentle pressing, fermentation in wooden tanks, then maturation in barriques.

As always, the Cerviolo is excellent: concentrated, with the aroma of red cherry, sweet tobacco, walnut and wild mushroom. Silky and multi-layered on the palate, with balsamic and spicy notes, dense and soft, with absolutely harmonious tannins. A marvellous wine! SUPERIORE.DE

La Grola is the eponymous, historic vineyard where Corvina, the indigenous grape of Valpolicella, is believed to have originated. The replanting of the vineyard by Giovanni Allegrini triggered an agronomic revolution and laid the foundations for the success of this wine-growing region, which today stands for convincing, great red wines from north-east Italy. With the 2022 vintage, La Grola returns to its origins: declared Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC for the first time, it marks a new phase for this iconic wine from Allegrini. The cuvée of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella comes from the limestone terraces of the La Grola hill, exposed to the south-east and consistently selectively harvested. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wine is matured in barriques, some new, some used.

As usual, the grapes come from a selection of old vines from the Mosconi, Gabutti and Ravera parcels, whose chalky and clayey soils lend the wines fine minerality and structure. The wines are matured separately by vineyard for around 12 months in used barriques before the cuvée is blended. Dense ruby red colour with a purple core – a glance into the glass already reveals the depth of this vintage. The bouquet reveals a multi-layered aroma of ripe cherry, plum and dark berries, accompanied by hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of dried herbs. Juicy and focussed on the palate, with lively acidity, ripe fruit and supple tannins. The 2023 appears a touch fresher and more youthful than its predecessor, but retains the balance of regional roots and the finely nuanced style for which Chiara Boschis is known. SUPERIORE.DE

It is a story of transformation, written in the granite slopes of Gallura. Vign'Angena – the "foreign vineyard" in the Sardinian dialect – bears a name full of poetic irony. What once began as rented land, whose grapes Capichera used in the early years of her Vermentino revolution, became the quintessence of her own excellence. Since the first vinification in 1994, this DOCG wine has embodied the purest soul of the Gallurese terroir. Where the rows of vines between Olbia and Palau breathe the salty winds of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Vermentino thrives on the same soils that once harboured Nuragic giants. The nearby tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju silently tells of thousands of years of Sardinian history – here, where Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda realised their vision of a new Vermentino era. No wood touches these grapes; only cool stainless steel preserves the crystalline purity of the harvest, which does not begin until mid-August each year.