wines

Santo Stefano Belbo and Calosso, 400 metres above sea level, on the marly soils of the Langhe: here grows the Moscato Bianco from which I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – the joint project of the Ceretto family and local winegrowers since 1976 – to produce this Asti Spumante. 41 hectares, harvested by hand. A wine that comes from one of the most precise Moscato terroirs in Piedmont. The second fermentation in pressurised tanks gives the wine its lively, finely sparkling mousseux and raises the alcohol content to 7%. Five atmospheres of pressure during bottling: this is complete sparkling wine character that brings the Moscato flavours to the fore.

Three thousand years of winegrowing history are condensed into one street name: Strada Provinciale 68 near Vittoria, the route along which generations of Sicilian farmers carried their amphorae and later barrels to market. Arianna Occhipinti, a pioneer of Sicilian natural wine, has created a liquid monument to this country road. Albanello and Zibibbo, two indigenous islanders, grow here on red sand over limestone. The grapes ferment together with wild yeasts in concrete, and two weeks of maceration give the Bianco its characteristic texture. Bottled unfiltered, it retains its lively cloudiness.

Gentle in flavour, powerful in body. La Casa in Collina is Vite Colte's charming statement on Barbaresco. Created from traditional grape variety assemblages from old terroirs in a light southern exposure, this wine combines nuance with poise: around 20 days of slow fermentation and a year in large oak barrels create a balance that allows depth without sacrificing elegance. In the glass, the colour is a rich ruby red that thickens to a fine garnet at the edges. The nose opens with a refined profile: ripe plum, red berry and violet, accompanied by coffee powder, tobacco leaf and a hint of fine woody spices, subtly intense but never overwhelming. Lively and carefully structured on the palate, with well-embedded tannins, fresh acidity and dense fruit. The big wood is noticeable, but nuanced. The finish is long, savoury and pleasantly round, with a hint of subtle vanilla and juicy cherry. This Barbaresco is confident and expressive, yet approachable enough to enjoy today. Optimal value for money – good potential available. SUPERIORE.DE

Demesse Vecchie is named after the village where Olivini has its family seat. The historic part of the vineyard was home to a nunnery in the late 17th century. The addition "vecchie" promises that the grapes for this very complex Lugana come from the estate's oldest vines, some of which are over 50 years old. They are also harvested late and carefully selected, after which they are matured on the fine lees for several months.

Kirchegg – the corner by the church. Field names like this are as old in South Tyrol as the vineyards themselves: precise descriptions of the land before there were maps, before there were appellations, before anyone had the idea of marketing vineyards. This patch of earth near Tramin – in the heart of the South Tyrolean Wine Route – is one of the warmest sites in the Adige Valley: naturally good for grape varieties that need warmth, structure and ripeness. 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon on heavy clay soils: Merlot brings the warm, dark fruit and the fullness, Cabernet the structure, the tannic persistence and the slightly vegetal tone that gives the wine its unmistakable character. After the harvest, a short maceration followed by 10 days of fermentation with the skins permanently submerged, with a deliberate increase in temperature towards the end for maximum extraction of colour and aromas. International in the origin of the grape varieties – pure South Tyrol in the result.

High above the Tyrrhenian coast, where the dawn of the Mediterranean awakens and the scent of the Mediterranean scrub permeates the salty breeze, lies one of the most mysterious hills of the Alta Maremma: Poggio ai Ginepri – the hill of junipers. Here, where the red aeolian sands of Donoratico mingle with the ancient flysch sediments of the Lower Cretaceous period, one of Bolgheri's most legendary wines has been produced since 2002. It was the very first wine to see the light of day at Tenuta Argentiera – born from the vision of revealing the unspoilt beauty of this privileged terroir. A name that has since become one of the most recognised brands in the entire denomination. The juniper bushes that give this magical hill its name stand like silent sentinels between the rows of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Petit Verdot (10%) vines. At an altitude of 80-100 metres, between the remains of prehistoric sediments and the sandy deposits of millennia of sea influence, these international varieties develop an authentic Tuscan character.

A photo from 1955 adorns the bottle: Elliott Erwitt's "California Kiss", two lovers in the mirror of a car. When Trudie Styler tasted the first sip of this Vermentino, she spontaneously found the name – "like a kiss on the lips". The fact that the wine was released in March 2021, when the world was hungry for closeness, lends it additional poetry. Incidentally, it is the first white wine that Riccardo Cotarella vinified for Il Palagio – a tribute to Trudie's love of elegant Bianchi. The hand-picked Vermentino grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, and a short maturation period preserves the vibrant freshness.

Here the name becomes the programme: Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg gave this wine its title because it tastes like Manincor itself. The essence of the hills that surround the estate, the view over Lake Kaltern, the strength and warmth of the warmest vineyards in South Tyrol – all come together in this glass. Grapes from Manincor and Panholzerhof, both at 250 metres, south-eastern slopes with sandy clay soils full of limestone gravel and glacial deposits.

Blangè comes from carefully cultivated Arneis parcels in the Langhe, which benefit from calcareous soils and optimal altitude. Since its introduction in the 1980s, it has been regarded as a modern classic, bringing new fame to the once almost forgotten Arneis grape variety. A characterful, aromatically clear white wine with a Piedmontese identity and contemporary style. Pale straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. On the nose, a fine, clear aroma of pear, white peach, citrus and a hint of exotic fruit, underpinned by floral notes and a delicate almond flavour. Fresh and balanced on the palate, with juicy fruit, fine acidity and a hint of salty minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

With the Brolettino, Ca’ dei Frati showcases the powerful, mature side of Lugana. The Turbiana grapes come from older vines, whose deep-reaching roots lend the fruit exceptional concentration. After fermentation, the wine matures for several months in barriques, which lends it additional structure and depth. In the glass, it is a bright straw yellow with golden highlights. On the nose, ripe yellow fruits, pineapple, apricot and candied lemon, accompanied by subtle notes of vanilla and almond. On the palate, it is creamy and full-bodied, with elegant oaky notes, subtle minerality and harmoniously integrated acidity. The finish is long, smooth and characterised by a delicate creaminess. A very distinguished Lugana, combining richness and elegance, which is superb both when young and after a few years’ bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The Ricasoli family has been shaping the history of Chianti Classico since 1141 – longer than any other winery in Italy. Baron Bettino Ricasoli defined the legendary Chianti formula in 1872, which is still valid today. Rocca Guicciarda was once one of the Barone ' most important feudal estates and today embodies the classic interpretation of this traditional appellation. The grapes for this Riserva come from vineyards on the five most representative soil types in Brolio between 280 and 480 metres above sea level: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (Galestro), Monte Morello (Alberese) as well as marine and fluvial deposits create a complex terroir mosaic. 90% Sangiovese forms the backbone, supplemented by 5% each of Merlot and Canaiolo. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with 14 to 16 days of maceration, the wine matures for 21 months in tonneaux and large barrels. The result is a Chianti Classico of an intense ruby red colour with light garnet reflections, whose bouquet combines ripe red fruit, raspberry, pomegranate and fine spicy notes. The palate reveals the traditional character: juicy, red berry flavours with fresh acidity and silky tannins – a versatile food companion with balanced drinkability. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer does not bear its name for nothing – it is one of the autochthonous South Tyrolean grape varieties and finds ideal conditions at the Ebnerhof on calcareous, loamy sandy soils. The vines thrive on the eastern slopes at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres, where Mediterranean influences from the Bolzano basin meet Alpine freshness. After gentle pressing, the Unterthiner family gives the wine six months to mature on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks.

"Zero Infinito" stands for zero chemical intervention and infinity. Years of research and experimentation have led to this extraordinary project, in which grapes from the fungus-resistant Solaris variety are transformed into wine without any additives: no treatment in the vineyard, no use of sulphur dioxide, no commercial yeasts, no fining agents, no filtration and no antioxidants. The grapes for this sparkling wine made using the Méthode Ancestrale (Pet Nat) with lees come from the south-west facing Maso Rella vineyard, situated at an altitude of 800 to 900 metres.

Some wines have a history. This one has a founding history. The Terlaner Cuvée (formerly Classico) was already there in 1893, when 24 winegrowers founded a cooperative in the small village of Terlan – with the conviction that more is possible together than alone. Over 130 years later, this idea remains unchanged, as does the wine. 60 per cent Pinot Bianco, 30 per cent Chardonnay, 10 per cent Sauvignon Blanc – the three great white Terlans in an assemblage that cellar master Rudi Kofler describes as compositional logic: Pinot Bianco provides freshness and acid structure, Chardonnay the ripe warmth and fullness, Sauvignon Blanc the fine aromatic play. Not a product of chance, but a wine with architecture. The grapes grow at 280 to 700 metres above sea level, on the characteristic quartz porphyry of Terlan – volcanic primary rock, which gives the wines their salty minerality and exceptional longevity.

Giovanni Neri founded the winery in Montalcino in 1971. What he built and his sons continue to run is one of the most precise houses in the appellation – known for its Brunelli, but also for the high standards that run through all its wines, regardless of the denominazione on the label. The IrRosso is Casanova di Neri's most accessible wine – a Toscana IGT that applies the house's craft to younger vines. Sangiovese from the Fiesole vineyard, right next to the estate, complemented by a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the southern Montalcino parcels. Hand-picked, hand-selected and optically sorted, spontaneous fermentation in open conical steel tanks, 13 days of maceration with regular pumping over.

In Montepulciano, they have called it that for centuries – the "noble plum". Prugnolo Gentile, an old Sangiovese biotype that does not develop this finesse anywhere else. When the Rivetti family came to Tuscany from Piedmont, they recognised immediately that this grape variety deserves to be called a pure variety. Thirty-year-old vines are rooted at an altitude of 250 metres in sandy soils whose marine sediments tell of the former ocean. What ends up in the glass surprises even connoisseurs: the tannin structure is reminiscent of Nebbiolo – a bridge between the two worlds of the Rivettis. 24 months in French oak give the wine time to explore this relationship. Plum and violets on the nose, then that silky delicacy on the palate that explains the name. Not a loud wine, but one that whispers – and therefore makes itself heard. Only 6,000 bottles, each one a document of Tuscan vineyard history. SUPERIORE.DE

Michele Chiarlos Principe is a red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes from two highly symbolic growing regions, Roero and Barbaresco. Subtle and intense at the same time, it has a character that tends towards a more drinkable profile, while retaining the elegance and structure typical of the grape variety. Bright ruby red colour. Enchanting nose of sour cherries, plums, but also gingerbread spice and some dried meat as well as cold smoke and mocha. On the palate, notes of violets and red fruit with a delicate spice vein. Well-integrated tannins, juicy finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. Rubiolo is the certified organic homage to over three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional vineyards.

"Fruit that bears richly" ... the meaning of the name. Sciala evokes images of golden grapes in the warm light of the Gallura autumn. Here, millennia-old memories and modern precision come together to create a Vermentino that is considered the style-defining work (not only) of Surrau. The grapes come from the estate's best plots: historic soils with granite subsoil, perfect drainage, constant wind, the grapes rigorously selected to maximise the potential of all components. After only brief skin contact, gentle fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around six months of maturation on the fine lees, balanced and clear in style.

Sessantanni – sixty years old. The age of the gnarled bush vines, which are rooted in traditional Alberello training on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of San Marzano and Sava. This form of training, in which the vines grow low and without wire frames, is labour-intensive, but protects the grapes from the scorching Apulian sun and naturally limits yields – around 3,000 kilograms per hectare. With Sessantanni, Cantine San Marzano has created a label that has significantly shaped the international perception of Apulian wines. The fully ripe grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September. 80 per cent of the must is left to macerate for 18 days, the remaining 20 per cent for 25 days for maximum extraction. Vinification with indigenous yeasts, twelve months of ageing in French and American oak barrels.

Riesling is a rarity in Piedmont. However, the grape variety finds ideal conditions in carefully selected, higher-lying plots: sunny days for aromatic ripeness, cool nights for acid freshness. Re di Fiori is matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve the pure fruit and fine tension of the variety. A white wine full of character that interprets the classic German grape variety in a Piedmontese style. Rare, authentic and with a subtle aristocratic flavour.

A photo from 1955 adorns the bottle: Elliott Erwitt's "California Kiss", two lovers in the mirror of a car. When Trudie Styler tasted the first sip of this Vermentino, she spontaneously found the name – "like a kiss on the lips". The fact that the wine was released in March 2021, when the world was hungry for closeness, lends it additional poetry. Incidentally, it is the first white wine that Riccardo Cotarella vinified for Il Palagio – a tribute to Trudie's love of elegant Bianchi. The hand-picked Vermentino grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, and a short maturation period preserves the vibrant freshness.

"The little boar". The name of this red speaks for itself: not a tame animal, not a wine that seeks approval. And yet it is the most approachable red of the house – the family resemblance to its big siblings Monteverro and Terra di Monteverro is clear, the demands are somewhat lighter and the pleasure is immediate. 40% Merlot provides the softness, 25% Cabernet Franc the spice, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon the structure and 10% Syrah the Mediterranean vigour. Clay-limestone with eroded stones, 7,575 vines per hectare in north-south orientation, organic cultivation, hand-picked. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks, exclusively gravity in the cellar – 100% gravity, no pumping, no pressure. 12 months in French barriques and steel tanks.