wines

"A Dolcetto as it should be: flattering and drinkable." This is how Matteo Ascheri describes his Dolcetto. No more, no less and no promise that is not kept. The vines grow in Rivalta between La Morra and Verduno, at 350 metres, exposed to the south-west and south-east – where Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto have always been at home. At least 85% Dolcetto, hand-picked between mid and late September, six days of fermentation at 25°C.

The Cantina della Volta is located on a section of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal – the place where river trains used to have to turn round before continuing towards Modena. La Volta means the turn, the hairpin bend. Not an inappropriate name for a frizzante that also goes its own way. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of the Secchia river, hand-picked in 15-kilogramme crates, cold maceration, first fermentation in steel tanks. What follows is the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle – bottle-fermented like a Méthode Classico, then the yeast carefully removed, crown cork. The same artisanal effort that Christian Bellei shows in his great sparkling wines – for a frizzante that should simply be a pleasure to drink.

Pinot Bianco Berg offers soft, savoury aromas of white stone fruit, alpine herbs and Spanish broom. The palate is creamy and polished, with juicy pear, ripe yellow apple and hazelnut, before finishing with a fresh citrus note. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1979, Sting sent a desperate message to the world with The Police – and landed a global hit. The red message in a bottle from Tuscany conveys a different message: that modern Tuscan red wine can combine tradition and cosmopolitanism. 70% Sangiovese forms the basis, supplemented by 15% each of Syrah and Merlot – a cuvée in the spirit of the Super Tuscans, but without their price ambitions. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented for seven to eight days at a controlled temperature and matured for twelve months in French barriques.

In the heart of Bolgheri, where Marilisa Allegrini and her late brother Walter realised their Tuscan dream in 2001, an old tradition is being revived. Cassiopea bears the name of the constellation that shines brightly over the 70-hectare estate of Poggio al Tesoro - a cosmic W for Walter or M for Marilisa, depending on the angle of view in the night sky of the Costa Toscana. This elegant Rosato comes from the prestigious Le Sondraie vineyard, which was once leased to Ornellaia and now forms the centrepiece of the Allegrini vision. The "soprastrada" vineyard, located to the east of the famous Strada Bolgherese, is considered the most valuable area of Bolgheri in terms of quality. Here, where the Seggio stream has transported minerals from the nearby hills for centuries, complex soils of sand, clay and pebbles with a high magnesium content create ideal conditions for both grape varieties.

Delicate rosé, aromatic, vinous fragrance with notes of roses, violets and undergrowth. Fresh on the palate with fine acidity, soft and a slightly salty note. An Aglianico Rosato that does not conceal its volcanic origins and is not easily forgotten. SUPERIORE.DE

Brilliant ruby red colour. Intense bouquet of small red berries, cherries and a violet-spice component. Warm and full flavours of forest fruits and cherries on the palate, flanked by a solid tannin structure. The finish is soft and long, medium-bodied and very elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Nebbiolo is red wine. Always. Barolo, Barbaresco, Valtellina Superiore – the great reds of the north. And yet: in the vineyards of the Alpi Retiche, on the steep terraces of Valtellina between 350 and 600 metres, Nino Negri makes a white wine from this grape variety. Blanc de Noir – with a depth and independence that shows what Nebbiolo can do when you take away the colour and let the minerality do the talking. The secret lies in the soil. The geological diversity of the Alpi Retiche is the result of the collision between the African and European continental plates – a collision that formed the Alps and left behind rocks of exceptional minerality. These soils give the Nebbiolo Bianco its unmistakable character: elegant, mineral, with a complexity that is surprising for a white wine from this region.

A medieval watchtower on the river Marzeno gave this wine its name – and indeed it watches over the boundaries of what Romagna Sangiovese can be. Cristina Geminiani, who took over her grandfather's winery in 1987, has created something here that has nothing to hide from any Tuscan. Her secret: Alberello, the old bush cultivation, planted in densities that are considered insane elsewhere. What grows here is Sangiovese of unusual concentration, complemented by a touch of Merlot and the indigenous Ancellotta. Twelve months in French barriques polish the wine without masking its origins.

Intense ruby red with a sparkling centre. Suculé immediately shows that it wants to be more than a classic Barbera. The fragrance caresses the senses with ripe sour cherry, blackberry, rose petals and a fine hint of vanilla – a complex, inviting bouquet. Velvety and dense on the palate and perfectly balanced: juicy red fruit meets a harmonious structure, a supporting sweetness and a subtle hint of minerality on the finish. Maturation for 18 months in barriques ensures velvety depth and length. A powerful but elegantly interwoven Barbera with format and accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

Floral and slightly spicy, stimulating bouquet of green apple, peach and melon. Aromatic freshness, fullness and harmony on the palate. Fine, clean and very harmonious quality. SUPERIORE.DE

The Maremma was Etruscan country before it became wine country – and on the hill of Gavorrano, where the cellar building designed by Renzo Piano is cut into the landscape, excavations have brought to light wine remains from a past almost three thousand years old. What began back then, Rocca di Frassinello continues today: as a joint venture between Castellare di Castellina and the Domaines Barons de Rothschild-Lafite, with the aim of uniting the best of two wine worlds on a single estate. The Vermentino grows at an altitude of 90 metres in a natural wind tunnel along the old Via Aurelia – a constant sea breeze blows over the hills from the coast near Castiglione della Pescaia, keeping humidity and heat at bay. Vinification in steel tanks, six months maturation on the lees.

South Tyrol's "regional red" par excellence thrives between 260 and 500 metres on calcareous clay-dolomite soils to authentic perfection. The autochthonous Vernatsch, mentioned in documents as early as 1370 as Vernatschia, has embodied the soul of South Tyrolean wine culture for centuries. The single-varietal Schiava is fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel and refined for six months in large wooden barrels, a vinification process that skilfully combines tradition and modernity and gives Bocado its characteristic structure.

Augere – to enlarge, increase. This hilltop above Treiso owes its name to the Latins because the vines here have always produced better grapes than elsewhere. At Bricco, 420 metres above Munfrina, the soil is different: hard, compact, almost stony, with a high lime content – centuries of erosion have long since carried away the sand and silt. What remains challenges the Dolcetto grape and gives it an atypical tannin structure for the variety. Giorgio Pelissero responds with equally atypical vinification: ten to twelve days of maceration instead of the usual four, then six months in 50-hectolitre oak barrels to tame the powerful tannins.

Gregory Perrucci has given Primitivo di Manduria back its dignity. When he founded the Felline winery in 1992, Primitivo was still a mass-produced commodity for tanker exports – cheap blended wine without prestige. Perrucci recognised the potential of the grape variety and began to systematically investigate the terroirs around Manduria. With his Accademia dei Racemi, founded in 1996, he became a pioneer in the valorisation of indigenous Apulian varieties. Today, Felline is considered a reference for Primitivo di Manduria – thanks to its work on different types of soil (terra rossa, white earth, black earth, sand) and its uncompromising focus on quality. This basic Primitivo comes from different plots of the 120 hectares of vineyards, which are organically farmed. Hand-picked, vinified separately according to soil type, matured for six months in French barriques – a classic interpretation of the variety.

The name "The Whale" refers to the Tyrrhenian Sea, which can be seen from the hills of Suvereto and whose breeze sweeps daily over the San Lorenzo vineyard in the single vineyard of the same name. What is produced here carries this sea within it. 50% Vermentino, 50% Viognier – a meeting of two Mediterranean characters on loamy-sandy, slightly chalky soil, 18-year-old vines, Guyot. Three months on the fine lees. What ends up in the bottle is one of those white wines that you don't analyse, but simply drink.

Dense ruby red in colour with a garnet-red hue. Juicy sour cherry, ripe plum and a hint of violet on the nose, accompanied by fine notes of sweet spices and subtle vanilla. Juicy and powerful on the palate, with a present but harmoniously integrated acidity that emphasises the typical character of the grape variety. The tannins are round and supple, while the medium-long finish is characterised by fruit fullness and a delicate, spicy hint. Ageing in stainless steel tanks and large wooden barrels gives the wine structure without diminishing its freshness. An authentic Barbera d'Alba that clearly shows its origins in the glass – accessible, balanced and with an elegant finish that makes you want to savour the next glass. SUPERIORE.DE

In the 1980s, Luigi Baudana planted Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on his slopes in Serralunga d'Alba – at a time when white wine had no great tradition in the Langhe. That took courage. This is precisely why the wine is now called Dragon and bears the dragon by illustrator Gianni Gallo on the label: a symbol of courage that the Vajra family incorporated into its own history after taking over the Baudana estate. Today, the Dragon is no longer a simple Bianco. Nascetta – the most fascinating indigenous white wine variety of the Langhe, rescued and cultivated by Vajra – gives the blend its unmistakable character. A touch of Riesling: the signature of an estate that sees curiosity as an attitude. Fermentation and ageing in steel for approx. 6 months.

Contrada Catavatta, Barile. The slopes of the extinct Monte Vulture, at 600 metres above sea level – a terroir of compressed volcanic ash, tuff and pumice that gives each wine an unmistakable minerality. The vines of the Verha line lay fallow here for years until they were awakened by Elena Fucci to create a new small line. Not as an experiment, but as an attitude: good soil should be cultivated. 80% Aglianico, 20% Primitivo – a rare encounter in the Vulture. Short maceration, gentle pressing, steel.

As a rule, Aglianico is not a grape variety that gives pleasure immediately (and very young). Anyone who knows Titolo knows this: structure, tannin, concentration – wines for years, not for tonight. Verha Rosso is Elena Fucci's other answer to the same volcano. From young vines in Contrada Catavatta, harvested by hand in small crates at the end of September, spontaneously fermented in steel, twelve days of maceration – no more. Six months in steel, six months in bottle. No wood to make the Aglianico heavier than it wants to be at this moment. The result is an Aglianico that is rarely encountered: lean, fresh, easy to drink – with fine tannins and that volcanic character that clearly localises this wine.

Fiano is one of the noblest white wine varieties in southern Italy, and Feudi di San Gregorio is one of its most important interpreters. Bright straw yellow with greenish reflections. The fragrance is finely interwoven – white flowers, hazelnut, delicate honey notes and citrus fruit form an elegant spectrum of flavours. Structured and lively on the palate, with fine minerality, juicy fruit and a subtle creaminess. The volcanic soils of the Avellino hills are reflected in the clear texture and the long, slightly almondy final. An expressive Fiano that combines origin and grape variety in a stylish balance. A versatile food companion – from antipasti to seafood cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Dark, almost impenetrable ruby red colour with violet reflections. The aroma combines ripe black cherry, blackberry and cassis with fine notes of liquorice, dark chocolate and a spicy hint of pepper. A gentle smokiness from the ageing in barriques frames the multi-layered bouquet. Full-bodied on the palate, with juicy fruit fullness and velvety embedded tannins. The cuvée of Barbera, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon combines power and elegance, while the fresh acidity ensures balance. The long, spicy finish makes you want to savour the next sip. A modern Langhe Rosso full of character that skilfully combines international grape varieties with a Piedmontese heart. SUPERIORE.DE

Sangiovese as rosato – in the Maremma, this is not an emergency solution, but a choice. The hills around Gavorrano, with their warm climate and constant sea breezes, give this grape variety a ripeness that is gentle rather than powerful. The short maceration period preserves exactly that: freshness, elegance and a colour as delicate as peach blossom. Vinified in steel tanks at a controlled temperature, two months in the bottle before release.