wines

Pinot Grigio is Italy's best-selling white wine variety – and at the same time one of the most misunderstood. What becomes a pale all-purpose weapon on an industrial scale shows a completely different face in South Tyrol. The grapes for Hofstätter's version come from Mazzon and Egna in the Adige Valley, where the soils are skeleton-rich and well-drained and the vine builds up its aromas with a concentration that gives the wine real substance.

Bright light yellow colour. Floral, fine fruity notes of apple and tropical fruit. This wine is youthfully fresh and at the same time elegant with pleasant, fresh acidity and fine minerality. Harmonious finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In the Arbëresh dialect of Basilicata – the language that the Albanian immigrants of the 15th century brought with them to the south of Italy – verha simply means: the wine. Elena Fucci is best known for her Titolo, one of the finest Aglianico del Vulture wines in the world. The Contrada Catavatta is right next door – the same volcanic soils of tuff, ash and pumice, the same altitude at the foot of Monte Vulture, the same manual labour. The vines here, however, were threatened with decay. Elena Fucci saved them: Not with great ambitions, but with the simple conviction that good soil should not waste good wine. 100% Sauvignon Blanc, spontaneous fermentation, steel, no touch of wood. A white wine that tells the story of the Vulture terroir in a language that is rarely heard there: fresh, direct, mineral.

Pale straw yellow with a greenish tinge – a Friulano with a classic appearance and modern clarity. On the nose, white flowers, Williams pear, a hint of yellow apple and a delicate almond note – typical of the indigenous grape variety. Dry, soft and balanced on the palate with fine fruit, subtle herbal spice and a pleasant almondy aftertaste. The ageing in stainless steel brings out the varietal typicity particularly clearly and leaves room for the fresh, accessible nature of this wine. An honest, very successful Friulano that combines drinking pleasure and origin in a charming and characterful way. SUPERIORE.DE

A Vermentino that could hardly be more Gallurese: On the granite-rich soils of the northern hills of Sardinia, moulded by wind, light and salty sea air, Elibaria matures into a white wine that makes its origins tangible in the glass. The wine is matured puristically in stainless steel tanks and for several months on the fine lees – without wood, without fining, but with maximum precision.

Moscato Giallo is one of the most fragrant grape varieties in South Tyrol – and one of the most vulnerable. In the wrong hands it becomes sugary sweet and arbitrary, in the right hands it shows something rare: aromatic depth with complete dryness. Nals Margreid cultivates it in the southernmost part of its vineyard area, in Margreid – the warmest, most Mediterranean tip between Nals and Lake Garda. The vineyards lie at an altitude of 220 to 350 metres, exposed to the south-southeast, on white, broodinglimestone gravel soil with a high humus content. The climate bears the fingerprint of the Ora, the warm afternoon wind that blows daily from Lake Garda over the slopes, extending the growing season and shaping the flavour of the grapes. Hand-picked, three weeks of fermentation in steel, five months of ageing on the fine lees.

Italy connoisseur and wine critic Ian D'Agata writes about the grape variety in his book "Native Wine Grapes of Italy": "Verdicchio is arguably Italy's greatest indigenous white grape variety. This statement may come as a surprise to those who have only tasted neutral or watery Verdicchio wines, sometimes even bottled in incredible amphora-shaped bottles."

The name is a tongue-in-cheek reference to the Sardinian word for ladybird – and yet this wine is far more than just a charming gimmick. Mamaioa is an organically produced Cannonau in its purest form, spontaneously fermented, with short maturation in cement and stainless steel – undisguised, straightforward and characterised by the terroir of the Sinis region west of Oristano. A modern Cannonau with a natural signature, deliberately unadorned in the best sense of the word – honest, typical of the region and pleasingly versatile.

In Palaeolithic times, the Matelica valley was a salt lake. Today, enclosed between Apennine peaks and cut off from the Adriatic, a Verdicchio grows here that carries this mineral history in every fibre. La Monacesca, founded in 1966 by Casimiro Cifola and now run by his son Aldo, has made this origin its programme. Seventeen hectares on clayey soils, four hundred metres high, facing north-south. The grapes are harvested by hand, gently pressed, fermented in stainless steel and matured for a long time on the fine lees – only then does the wine go into the bottle. No wood, no distractions, just time.

An Etna Rosso full of temptation and polished elegance, Ulysse is a reference to Odysseus' legendary naval voyages and this vibrant tension between the Nerello grape and the unique Etna terroir reflects precisely this balance between adventure and the spirit of discovery. Intense ruby red in colour with garnet hues. The nose opens with an aroma of cherry, blackcurrant and raspberry, along with spicy, subliminal pepper, vanilla and a hint of tobacco – clear, precise and pleasantly inviting. On the palate, Ulysse has a moderate body, juicy fruit and fine but present acidity. The tannins are softly embedded, the finish is long, with a fine aftertaste and a lot of flavour that whets the appetite for the next sip. An accessible, cultivated Etna Rosso – ideal with dark poultry, grilled vegetables or mildly matured cheese. Have a good trip! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep, dark ruby red with a garnet red centre. The aroma is warm and complex: black cherry, dried plums, a pinch of tobacco and balsamic notes, underpinned by a hint of liquorice and toast. Powerful and well-structured on the palate, with dense tannins and a ripe, almost velvety texture. The ageing in barriques adds depth without overpowering the fruit. Negroamaro in this Riserva form shows its full potential: independent, complex and with elegant maturity. An authentic representative of the DOC Leverano, characterised by the warm climate of Salento and the craftsmanship of Conti Zecca. SUPERIORE.DE

Branu means "spring" and is a fresh greeting from Gallura: the name alludes to new beginnings and lightness and it is the programme. 100% Vermentino, grown on the granite terraces around Arzachena, captures spring in a glass – primarily in flavour and style, but never too playful. The vineyards are located close to the coast, with granite substrates, sparse scrubland and a constant sea breeze – a terroir that combines minerality and freshness as it matures.

Martin Foradori-Hofstätter sees his Chardonnay as an expression of the South Tyrolean lowlands: clear, precise, without detours via the wood. The grapes come from the Mazon and Egna vineyards, where marl soils and the typical diurnal variation between alpine night and warm afternoon give the Chardonnay a natural freshness that no cellar master could force. Vinified at controlled temperatures, matured exclusively in steel on the fine lees until the point of optimum ripeness.

The Eisack Valley between Klausen and Brixen is one of the coolest wine-growing regions in South Tyrol – and one of the steepest. At 615 to 908 metres above sea level, on weathered mica schist and sandy gravel soils, the Müller-Thurgau vines of two winegrower partners, which Alois Lageder looks after organically, grow. This altitude is no coincidence: Müller Thurgau needs coolness and slow ripening to develop its fine flavour – the Eisack Valley has both in abundance. In the cellar, Lageder works with a level of care that goes beyond the usual: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel and in large wooden barrels, a small percentage ferments and macerates on the intact grapes – stalks and skins included. Maturation takes place on the fine lees in steel and on the full lees in large wooden barrels. Not filtered.

Maremma is red wine country. Morellino di Scansano, Saffredi, great Sangiovese and Cabernet – these are the images that characterise this coastal region of southern Tuscany. Elisabetta Geppetti, who has been an ambassador for this region for decades, dared to do something different in 1997: a white wine that works with Nordic varieties – sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Traminer, Semillon – and planted them in the south. The result is called Poggio Argentato, a white wine with – as Geppetti himself calls it – "French accent and Tuscan soul". The grapes come from two vineyards: Pian di Fiora near Pereta on tufaceous, alabaster-rich soil with south-east exposure and San Vittorio near Scansano on clayey silt with quartz and magmatic rock, open to the sea breezes to the north-east. 200 to 250 metres above sea level, 6,500 vines per hectare. The Sauvignon Blanc matures exclusively in steel. The other varieties spend a short time in secondary tonneau. Five months on the fine lees – for texture and depth without the impression of wood.

Tiefenbrunner and Müller-Thurgau – is more than just a grape variety and a winery. The family has taken this cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale to the highest altitudes of their vineyards and created an icon in the process: the Vigna Feldmarschall von Fenner, one of the most famous high-altitude wines in Italy, at over 1,000 metres. And Merus is the start of this story – first vintage: 1968, the grapes come exclusively from the Graun vineyard at 750 to 900 metres above sea level – calcareous-loamy dolomite soils, south-southeast exposure, the coolest of the Merus sites. This altitude is no coincidence: Müller-Thurgau needs coolness to develop its characteristic herbal flavour. Vinified in concrete vats – like Chardonnay, but with a different result.

Tramin, the heart of South Tyrolean viticulture – and Hofstätter has been its most reliable interpreter for generations. "De Vite" is Martin Foradori-Hofstätter's entry into the world of white wines: a cuvée of Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc and Müller-Thurgau, vinified in steel, focussed on freshness and drinkability. Light yellow in colour with greenish reflections, lively in the glass. The nose reveals green apples, a hint of lemongrass and delicate elderflower – clear, inviting, alpine. Precise acidity on the palate, good balance, a light, invigorating finish. A direct and beautiful wine for the moment, without detours, without any claim to great complexity, but with the typical Hofstätter sense of care even in simplicity. SUPERIORE.DE

The namesake of the winery – and the wine. Pandolfo Malatesta, the bold 15th century general whose portrait by Piero della Francesca now hangs in the Louvre, once lived on this estate. The Sangiovese vines stand at an altitude of 150 to 250 metres, characterised by brown limestone soils, planted in 1999 with 4,500 vines per hectare. After 14 days of maceration, 70% of the wine is matured in stainless steel and 30% in large Slavonian oak barrels – one step more complex than the Federico, but not yet the Riserva.

Delicate straw yellow colour with silver reflections. The aroma: clear, fresh and typical of Friulian Sauvignon - green gooseberry, lemon zest, elderflower and a hint of sage. Lively and juicy on the palate, with well-balanced freshness. The flavour remains precise without being overpowering, the acidity is present but well integrated. The ageing in stainless steel tanks preserves the tension and varietal character, while a fine melting texture lends the wine elegance. A modern classic with a northern Italian soul - its balance makes it a versatile accompaniment to light cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Merus – the Latin word for pure, genuine, unmixed. The Tiefenbrunner family has given its entry-level line a name that says it all: no distractions, no overlaying – just the character of the grape variety and the place. Chardonnay Merus comes from two very different sites that complement each other: Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at 400 to 650 metres, on calcareous dolomite soils with south-southeast exposure, stand for freshness and minerality. Margreid, Punggl and Kurtinig at the bottom of the valley at 210 to 220 metres, on sandy-limestone alluvial soils, stand for fullness and fruit. Vinified in concrete vats.

Greco di Tufo is one of the most distinctive white wines in southern Italy – mineral, full of character and with a clear profile of origin. The volcanic soils around Tufo in the heart of Irpinia give the wine its typical tension. The vintage is balanced and aromatically precise: a light straw yellow colour with golden reflections in the glass. On the nose, white mandarin, yellow apple, quince and a hint of smokiness – typical of the grape variety. Taut and juicy on the palate, with vibrant acidity, a chalky texture and a salty finish. An expressive, terroir-influenced white wine with serious depth, which is excellent on its own or with grilled fish, shellfish or pasta with mussels. SUPERIORE.DE

The Cantina della Volta is located on a section of the Naviglio di Bomporto canal – the place where river trains used to have to turn round before continuing towards Modena. La Volta means the turn, the hairpin bend. Not an inappropriate name for a frizzante that also goes its own way. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara from the alluvial soils of the Secchia river, hand-picked in 15-kilogramme crates, cold maceration, first fermentation in steel tanks. What follows is the decisive step: the second fermentation in the bottle – bottle-fermented like a Méthode Classico, then the yeast carefully removed, crown cork. The same artisanal effort that Christian Bellei shows in his great sparkling wines – for a frizzante that should simply be a pleasure to drink.

Pinot Bianco Berg offers soft, savoury aromas of white stone fruit, alpine herbs and Spanish broom. The palate is creamy and polished, with juicy pear, ripe yellow apple and hazelnut, before finishing with a fresh citrus note. SUPERIORE.DE