wines

A handful of fresh cherries. Bite into them. Juice running down your fingers. Tasting Gallina 2020 is an immediate, sensual, irresistible experience. Among the Roagna-Barbareschi, it is the seducer, the wine that does not impress with its austere grandeur, but captivates with its open charm. The family has been cultivating a plot in Neive's most famous MGA since 2014. The calcareous clay soil with a high proportion of sand gives the Nebbiolo here the silky finesse that distinguishes Gallina from its more austere neighbours. Antonio Galloni calls the site "the source of the roundest and most accessible Barbareschi in the municipality". Wines that can be drunk early and yet mature for decades.

Typical Asili: Vecchie Viti 2018 emerges from the glass with an impressive aroma. Sweet red berries, mint, blood orange, cinnamon and star anise form a wonderful network of aromas and flavours. The 2018 is graceful, light-footed and full of Asili seduction, but with that extra kick of tannin that is so typical of Roagna. With further bottle ageing, this is sure to be one of the great wines of the appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

Roagna's Barbaresco Pajè Vecchie Viti opens with a bright garnet-red colour and a deep, shiny glow. The fruit of old vines manages to reach the impossible point between power and elegance. The wine shows a delicate and bright bouquet, but also a compact fruit and a long finish. You can feel this extra fullness on the finish. The production is around 2,500 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

Europe was on the brink of collapse in 1937, but someone planted Nebbiolo. These vines are still standing today – some on their original roots, protected by calcareous soils in which phylloxera was never able to gain a foothold decades earlier. Others were propagated using an ancient technique: a shoot from the mother plant is bent under the ground, takes root and becomes a vine in its own right. Genetically identical, but reborn. In this way, the vineyard is rejuvenated without losing its identity. One and a half hectares within the Pira monopoly position are reserved for these "veterans". Antonio Galloni called last year's 2019 vintage "one of the most poignant, beautiful wines I have ever tasted here" – 99 points for something that actually defies judgement. Because this Barolo is not about power, but about flavour and depth.

Beguiling aroma of sweet, dark berries with a hint of cassis, cedar wood and antique leather. Very balanced on the palate, beautifully viscous with an elegant melt. Fine-meshed tannins, restrained mineral tones and wonderfully polished fruit accompany a remarkable finish. For all its elegance, it shows pressure and power and, with the right dose of acidity, promises a long life and almost reaches the level of its famous big brother. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gentle hills of Serdiana, where the Mediterranean sun meets ancient soils, a quiet revolution took place in the 1980s. Antonio Argiolas, patriarch of a family that has been connected to the Sardinian soil for generations, dared to do the unthinkable: he brought the legendary Giacomo Tachis, the creator of Sassicaia, to the island to realise the dream of a great Sardinian wine together. Turriga was born – not just as a wine, but as a manifesto for an entire region. The name itself tells a story: Turriga comes from the Sardinian dialect and refers to the characteristic watchtowers that have guarded the island's coastline for centuries. Like these stone sentinels overlooking the sea, this wine watches over the reputation of Sardinian oenology. This cuvée from various red Sardinian grape varieties comes from the best vineyards of Tenuta Turriga – a composition that combines Tachis' genius for blending with the authentic soul of Sardinia.

The single vineyard Serradenari is currently the highest vineyard in the Barolo area and at the same time the historic site of the appellation (MGA - Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva). The cool and mountainous climate with its clay and marl soils gives rise to a Nebbiolo here that is short on words - it is precise, clear and unambiguous.

Some vineyards are bought. Some are inherited. This one was gambled away. In 1961, a 0.22-hectare plot in the heart of Asili changed hands – the previous owner, so the story goes, was exceptionally unlucky at cards. Giovanni Roagna had the better hand. Or the better fate. The Piedmontese called this location "Asei" in dialect – one of the historic vineyards south of the village of Barbaresco. The plot is located exactly in the centre of the hill, where Luca Roagna locates the "most classic" part of the crus. The soil is characterised by calcareous marl interspersed with veins of reddish-yellow sand. The vines, now at least 80 years old, are not cared for – they are left alone. Wild grasses cover the ground, Luca does not plough, the permaculture remains untouched.

Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti comes from the estate's oldest vines, which were planted in 1937. As always, Pira Vecchie Viti is more about haunting, ethereal flavours than power. Sweet rose petals, mint, dried flowers, sweet red cherries and cedar give this beguiling, high-toned Barolo a captivating aromatic presence. A great wine. SUPERIORE.DE

Geologists speak of erosion. Winegrowers speak of fate. Over millions of years, the rocks above Castiglione Falletto weathered and formed the soil on which Pira now thrives. When Luca Roagna acquired half a hectare on these very Rocche in 2016, a circle was completed: the mother rock returned to the child. The parcel is located in the historic heart of the site, at the top of the hill at three hundred metres, with a pure southern exposure. Calcareous clay soils, interspersed with white rock and sand, nourish Nebbiolo vines from the 1960s and 70s – planted with vines from ancient stocks. Situated right next to the new winery, this vineyard is Roagna's most intimate property: just 0.48 hectares, from which a Barolo is created that Antonio Galloni simply calls "pure sensuality".

Anyone who hears the name Albesani inevitably thinks of Bruno Giacosa and his mythical Santo Stefano. The fact that Luca Roagna has been cultivating a plot of land in the immediate neighbourhood since 2014 is one of the best-kept secrets of Barbaresco – and one of its most exciting developments. The plot is located at 240 metres at the highest point of the hill, where the area borders Santo Stefano. The terroir is characterised by chalky soils with a good proportion of sand, and fifty-year-old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in this privileged soil. Albesani has held MGA certification since 2007 – late recognition for a site that connoisseurs have long counted among the greatest in the region. The vinification follows the Roagna canon: maceration with a submerged cap for two months, five years of ageing in large barrels and concrete.

"For the Barolo DOCG Parussi, we left the confines of Serralunga and opted for a vineyard in Castiglione Falletto. Thanks to the characteristics of Nebbiolo, which is perfectly capable of capturing the differences in microclimate and soil composition and translating them into sensations, the result amazed us. Structured, important, austere. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parussi in Castiglione Falletto." Franco Massolino

This breathtaking Barbaresco (total production approx. 1,300 bottles) shows more power and intensity than you would normally find in a Barbaresco. It opens with heady aromas of wild berries, new leather, undergrowth and menthol. On the palate, it shows ripe black raspberries, juicy cherries and liquorice before finishing on a tobacco note. It is still youthfully nervous and somewhat austere, it still needs some time to develop fully. SUPERIORE.DE

What does a name mean? In the Piedmontese dialect, "Pajè" once simply referred to the various vineyard parcels – an everyday word for everyday things. The fact that this name now stands for one of the most legendary crus of Barbaresco is one of the beautiful ironies of wine history. The Roagna family has been cultivating 1.83 hectares here in the heart of the municipality since 1953, and anyone who asks Luca Roagna about the core of his work will inevitably end up here. The vineyard is a natural amphitheatre: gently sloping to the south and south-west, protected from the wind by hills and open to the Tanaro valley. The soil tells of 70 million years of – marine sediments from the Tertiary period, interspersed with active limestone in a concentration that is exceptional even for the Langhe. The vines, on average over 50 years old, are deeply rooted in this history. After the harvest, the must ferments with its own yeasts and macerates for up to two months with a submerged cap. Five years in large wooden barrels and concrete complete the maturation process.

Deep dark, almost impenetrable red colour. A whole range of ripe wild berries on the nose, delicately accompanied by nuances of tobacco, leather, cedar and lavender. The palate is also full of fruit, powerful, yet silky and elegant. Traces of dark chocolate on the endlessly long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Centuries ago, a private road led from the Castello of the noble Falletti family down to this vineyard. Today, there is no longer a road here, but a path through a jungle-like thicket – biodiversity as Luca Roagna understands it. When the family acquired these seven hectares in Castiglione Falletto in 1989, a long-cherished dream came true: a Barolo vineyard on a par with the legendary Pajè estates in Barbaresco. Even more: a monopoly. The vineyard lies on the south-eastern slope below the Rocche di Castiglione, protected by the rock above and four hectares of forest with a stream from the Bussia di Monforte below. The soils tell the oldest story of Barolo – marine sediments from the Helvetia, the geological formation shared only by Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga and Monforte. Six micro-parcels are differentiated by alternating layers of white limestone, grey and blue marl, interspersed with iron. The oldest Nebbiolo vines date back to 1937.

When Luca Roagna guides guests through his wines, he serves them last. Not by chance, not out of dramaturgy – but because nothing else can come after the Pajè Vecchie Viti. The greatest tannin structure, he says, needs the last word. The vines from which this Barbaresco is made are 80-90 years old. This is not a marketing term – "Vecchie Viti" does not recognise the law –but the simple truth. During these decades, the roots have learnt to dig through countless layers of calcareous marl, drawing water and minerals from depths that remain closed to younger plants. What they send up is more concentrated, more complex and unrepeatable. 2,000-3,000 bottles are produced annually from this selection in the amphitheatre of Pajè. The upper part of the vineyard, where the mineral signature is strongest, goes into the Crichet Pajé – the Vecchie Viti is produced down here. It matures for five years in large wooden barrels and concrete before leaving the winery.

A dowry changed everything back then. In 1929, a triangular piece of land changed hands – not by purchase, but by marriage. Montefico has belonged to the Roagna family ever since, longer than any other vineyard in the portfolio. Almost a century later, this quarter of a hectare is still the most intimate chapter in its history. "Mont der fi" is what the Piedmontese dialect calls this location – the mountain over there, towards Neive. The small triangle lies exactly in the middle of the amphitheatre, at 230 metres, with a view of the neighbouring village. The soils of calcareous marl with a high proportion of active limestone are among the oldest in Barbaresco – seventy million years of marine sedimentation. The vines, all over 50 years old, are deeply rooted in this history. Of the four Vecchie Viti of the family, Montefico is the most intensely flavoured.

Produced only in the best vintages and in small quantities, this Riserva follows the classic promise of a traditional and powerful Brunello that becomes softer and better with age. Brilliant deep red colour. Fragrant aromas of raspberries and blueberries, emphasised by violets, incense and cinnamon. Wonderfully sweet and penetrating on the palate, but light on its feet, with real class and energy, not to mention the powerful minerality of the densely packed flavours of red berries, pomegranate, tobacco and wild herbs. The finish is very long, supple and subtle with very fine tannins. SUPERIORE.DE

The Bricco della Bigotta comes from the single vineyard of the same name and owes its name to a former resident whose strict piety became proverbial in the village. The old vines stand on a hill not far from Rocchetta Tanaro, in soils of limestone, marl and clay, which give the variety a distinctive structure. The 2020 vintage was characterised by a balanced vegetation cycle: mild spring days, a warm summer without extreme heat and cool nights in late summer, which gave the grapes freshness and aromatic depth. After selective manual harvesting, a long maceration followed by 12 months of ageing in French barriques.

"The Barolo DOCG Parafada is perfect for long ageing and surprising development. Elegant, refined, austere. Vinified in vats, matured in large barrels. Made with Nebbiolo grapes from our vineyard in the MGA Parafada in Serralunga d'Alba." Franco Massolino

In 2001, the brothers Piero and Lodovico Antinori, together with their nephew Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi, recognised the extraordinary potential of the hills of Bibbona in the upper Maremma. Instinct, passion and centuries of family experience led to a parcel-by-parcel study that would eventually become the birth of Tenuta di Biserno. The terroir of these 40 hectares at an altitude of 90 metres is of extraordinary complexity: mainly alluvial and clay-limestone soils that create the ideal environment for Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The different exposures and the distance from the sea characterise the varietal expression so strongly that the decision in favour of two production lines was obvious: Biserno – the most prestigious and representative wine of the estate – and Il Pino di Biserno.

Mosconi 2021 comes from one of the most renowned crus of Monforte d'Alba – a site known for its brooding, clay-limestone soils and south-westerly exposure. The terroir here gives the Nebbiolo particular depth, warmth and structural density. The 2021 vintage was almost ideal in the Langhe: a cool, slow start to the growing season, followed by a stable summer without heat stress and a dry, sunny autumn created perfect conditions for the grapes to ripen slowly with high aromatic complexity and finely polished tannins.