wines

Cellar master Rudi Kofler once put it like this: "He was looking for the wine that embodied the innermost, authentic essence of the Cantina Terlan. A wine that unites the greatness of the best vines and vineyard sites. The result is the Terlaner I Grande Cuvée – the silent flagship of a co-operative since 1893, which has proven that depth and time are not a question of ownership. Terlan lies in the Adige Valley, sheltered in the shadow of the Tschöggelberg, at the southern foothills of the Alps. What distinguishes the soil beneath the vines from all other soils in South Tyrol is a geological phenomenon: beneath Terlan lies a sub-volcanic body of rock that differs fundamentally in its composition from classic volcanic rock. Over millions of years, a unique crystal conglomerate has formed in its interior – an unusually high concentration of minerals, which the soil passes on to the roots. No calcium carbonate, slightly acidic pH, sandy porphyry weathered soils: stress mineralisation as a principle, saltiness as a result.

Ornato 2021 comes from the single vineyard of the same name in Serralunga d'Alba, exposed to the south – a cru with a distinctive altitude and calcareous soils that captures the depth and power of the Barolo region like no other. The 2021 vintage was characterised by a cool spring, a stable summer without extreme heat and a long, dry autumn. These conditions allowed the Nebbiolo to ripen slowly and evenly, giving the grapes aromatic complexity with full phenolic ripeness. The wine was fermented traditionally after a long maceration period and then matured for around 30 months in French oak – partly in tonneau and partly in barrique.

This vintage has become the flagship of the region – precise, powerful and at the same time polished. The aromatic depth contrasts with the lively freshness that makes the wine so contemporary. Terre Brune 2019 has a deep ruby red colour in the glass. The nose reveals nuanced aromas: blueberry, a mix of ripe black berries, accompanied by cinnamon, tobacco, liquorice and delicately smoky herbs – an olfactory complexity that arouses curiosity. Opulent on the palate, with dense fruit but never loud, carried by noble, ripe tannins. The finish is long, spicy and characterised by minerals – a confident expression of southern elegance and immense potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A name carries weight when it is the programme. Stilèma – derived from "Stile" and the name Mastroberardino – is not a marketing term, but a commitment. It was Antonio Mastroberardino, known as the "archaeologist of vineyards", who began digging in the early 2000s: experimental projects, selection of pre-phylloxeric clones, revision of all protocols in the vineyard and cellar. His goal was not a new style – it was a return to a lost one. The great white wines of Irpinia from the 1970s and 1980s had a density, a texture, a depth that later decades could not match. Stilèma was not intended to preserve this memory, but to translate it into the present.

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

The "Fracia" vineyard has belonged to Nino Negri since it was founded in 1897. It lies at the confluence of several alpine valleys and the vegetation in this area is almost Mediterranean with lavender and rosemary. The result is a wine that is flavoursome and flowery with a characteristic, spicy aroma.

Montalcino and Cabernet Sauvignon – at first sounds like a marriage against nature. Sangiovese reigns here, Brunello grows here, the grape variety has found its expression here for centuries. The fact that Count Alberto Marone Cinzano nevertheless planted Cabernet Sauvignon on the hills of his estate in the early 1980s was neither a coincidence nor an experiment – it was a conviction. The conviction that this terroir, these soils, this altitude are capable of more than just one wine. Today, Olmaia is a monument to this vision. The vineyard – 365 metres above sea level, planted in 2005 – bears his name. The DOC Sant'Antimo, founded in 1996, created the legal framework for just such wines: international grape varieties, grown in Montalcino's chalky soil, with the ambition not to imitate, but to interpret.

The fifth vineyard. The origin of this name is so simple – and so direct is Carlo Ferrini's philosophy behind it. La Quinta is not the little sister of Brunello, but its self-confident counterpart: the same address in Sant'Angelo in Colle at 400 metres, the same Sangiovese from skeleton-rich soils with a south-easterly orientation, the same care in the cellar and ageing. Only the time horizon is different. 2020 brought Montalcino warm, balanced conditions with a good night-day temperature amplitude – a vintage that favoured depth and drinkability in equal measure. 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration in steel, then 12 months in a combination of 700-litre Liters, 2,500-litre Liters barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounded off in cement tanks. The baked clay amphora provides the breathable openness that keeps the wine alive without oxidising it.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Caterina Zardini lost her husband. What remained were ten children, a hundred hectares of land in the heart of Valpolicella Classica and a winery that her husband Carlo Campagnola had built up with passion – he had won the prize for the best Recioto in the region in 1907. Caterina could have handed over the estate. But she didn't. She took over the work and continued to run the winery with all her children, laying the foundations for five generations of a wine family that is still rooted in Marano di Valpolicella today. This Amarone bears her name, a tribute.

In the history of the Campolungo vineyard, thousands of years of Tuscan viticultural culture merge with visionary dedication to perfection. These historic terraces between 420 and 580 metres above sea level were already recognised as exceptional by the Romans and have been considered one of the cradles of fine Chianti since the 19th century. The 2018 tells the story of a special climatic favour: after a hot, dry summer, the extreme altitude of Lamole preserved the crystalline freshness that makes Campolungo one of the most exceptional single vineyards in Tuscany. Pure Sangiovese from hand-picked grapes of exceptional aromatic intensity. After careful hand-picking and visual selection of the best grapes, a two-week fermentation with skin contact takes place in traditional wooden vats. Thirty months of ageing in oak barrels, supplemented by a small proportion in French barriques, create a wine of multi-layered complexity and elegance.

Sangiovese in purezza. Wonderfully spicy aroma, dark forest berries and cherries, some graphite and cedar wood. Silky elegance on the palate, juicy, dark berries, paired with an animating interplay of fruit and acidity that really lets the wine dance across the tongue. Percarlo has depth and length as well as potential for many years in the cellar. One of the great single-varietal Sangiovese wines of central Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes of UnoPerUno come from the cru vineyards Arborina in La Morra, Cannubi in Barolo, Pernanno in Castiglione Falletto, Sarmassa in Barolo and Cerretta in Serralunga d'Alba and are individually destemmed. As a result of this intensive manual work, only 1,300 bottles of this exceptional wine are sold in well-stocked specialist shops, and only in the best vintages. Due to the manual destemming, no green overtones of the stems get into the mash, making the tannins silkier and creamier than in the conventional process. The result is something to be savoured: UnoPerUno is of high fruit intensity, has an incredible depth and structure and is a benchmark of the appellation every year in its purity and clarity on the nose and palate. SUPERIORE.DE

The owner and winemaker Alessandro Mori describes himself as a "naturalista". His wines ferment spontaneously with autochthonous grape varieties and age for a long time in large old oak barrels. He lets the natural temperatures of the cellar control the refinement of the wine and uses minimal sulphur throughout. In addition to all its characteristic floral scents of roses and violets, Il Marroneto's 2018 is positively spicy with a peppery, juniper note. On the palate, it is delicately woven while offering deep flavours and good length. Clean and bright, with distinct notes of rosehip and raspberry, while refined tannins sneak up with textured chalkiness. SUPERIORE.DE

Andrea Franchetti began in the 1990s to position Palazzi as an equal red alongside his flagship Tenuta di Trinoro, with the aim of producing two exceptional wines reminiscent of the left and right banks of Bordeaux.

Some wines are created according to plan. And some are created because nature wants them to be. Il Merlot belongs to the second category – a wine that is only born when terroir, climate and sun come together in rare harmony. Maurizio Zanella, the visionary behind Ca' del Bosco, has elevated this principle to a philosophy: since the first vintage in 1990, only six vintages have been deemed worthy of being bottled as single-varietal Merlot. 2015 was one of them. That year, Franciacorta challenged its winegrowers: a mild winter spurred the vegetation cycle early, fungal pressure in early summer demanded meticulous foliage work, then sweltering heat until the end of July. Only after Ferragosto did rain bring redemption – and gave the Merlot grapes the final ripeness that distinguishes greatness from favour. The harvest began on 9 September for the three "vigne elette" in Cazzago San Martino and Passirano, whose vines, which are on average 37 years old, are rooted in the calcareous moraine soils of Franciacorta.