wines

A beautiful, very sensual, feminine wine that is only vinified in the best vintages. Exquisitely flavoured with dark fruit, elegant and fine on the palate with plenty of fruit and length. It was named after the nickname once given to the young wild Clerico by his father: Aeroplan Servaj - wild aeroplane. And the labelling is just as wild and creative - there are six different labels! SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Dagromis bears its name in memory of the family that once owned and cultivated these vineyards in the 19th century – a symbol of the combination of history and modern vision that is at home at Gaja. Today, this wine is a stylistic bridge: Nebbiolo grapes from the legendary La Morra and Serralunga vineyards are vinified separately, matured first for a year in barriques and then for a further year in large oak barrels – a deliberate blend of finesse and substance.

Il Bricco rises above Treiso to an altitude of around 400 metres. The vines are on average around four decades old. Selective hand-picking, parcel-by-parcel fermentation in stainless steel, patient malolactic fermentation. Maturation takes place predominantly in large oak barrels, accompanied by a smaller proportion of French oak for additional polish. 2019 is considered a textbook year in Barbaresco: a moderate summer, large day-night amplitudes and a long, dry autumn led to a late harvest and fully mature phenolics. The wines show density and vertical tension with excellent freshness – a profile with staying power.

Before there was Amarone, there was Recioto. For centuries, it was the great wine of Valpolicella – from the fourth century AD, when Cassiodoro, minister to the Goth king Theodoric, wrote to the landowners of the region requesting a very specific appassimento product: "Mostico invernale, freddo sangue delle uve" – winter must, cold blood of the grapes. At some point in the middle of the 20th century, the fermentation was allowed to run longer, the residual sugar dwindled, and the Recioto became – almost by mistake – the dry Amarone. Since then, the two have lived side by side. The Recioto has not lost ground – it has only become rarer.

Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Deep bouquet of rich blackberry and cherry flavours with mentholated herbal notes that give it lift, while notes of cedar and clove develop in the glass. On the palate, the wine is a pure silk that slowly lays over the palate, with an admirable density and weight balanced by bright acidity and minerality. This still very young wine is full of potential with a core of dark primary fruit that already offers a good foretaste of the charm of later years. A finely woven tannin structure on the long final. Wonderful ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come from the historic single vineyard Ornato in Serralunga d'Alba: steep, windy slopes on calcareous marl with ferruginous inclusions, at an altitude of around 350-400 metres, predominantly south/south-west facing. Each parcel is harvested separately and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration with gentle extraction. Maturation takes place classically in large Slavonian barrels, with a finely dosed proportion of French oak for texture and lustre. The typically long autumn of 2019 brought fully ripe, aromatically dense grapes with a cool acidity.

After almost twenty years of experience in the vinification of the famous Etna Rosso "Serra della Contessa", the Benanti family decided in 2015 to extend the vinification, ageing and refinement of the wine to 60 months. The result is an exclusive Riserva made from 85% Nerello Mascalese and 15% Nerello Cappuccio, sourced in very small quantities from vines over 100 years old (pre-phylloxera) from plot no. 587, which is rightly considered one of the best red wines in the region.

In just a few years, Alessandro Mori's wines have made Il Marroneto one of Montalcino's most famous wineries. Today, he runs the company together with his son Jacopo. The wines reflect their passionate, simple and outspoken character, which appears reserved and austere at first glance, but slowly opens up to reveal a harmonious synthesis of elegance and power. In 2019, he decided to produce a selection from some of his best grapes - named after his son Jacopo - and in such small quantities that we are the only ones on the German market to be allocated a few cases. SUPERIORE.DE

Gaja's Barolo Dagromis still flies under everyone's radar ... because Barolo Dagromis 2020 shows how tradition steeped in history and modern precision can be perfectly balanced. It bears its name in homage to the Gromis family, former owners of these historic parcels near La Morra – today married to the vineyards of Serralunga, whose cuvée is skilfully crafted. Each parcel delivers its Nebbiolo separately for fermentation, undergoes long maceration periods and matures for twelve months in barriques, followed by a further twelve months in large wooden barrels and bottle ageing.

Names carry stories. Dagromis tells of an encounter that took place in 1995, when Angelo Gaja acquired a ten-hectare estate in La Morra – from the hands of the Gromis family, who had lived there since the 19th century. "Da Gromis" means "by the Gromis" in Italian, a linguistic nod to the people who shaped these slopes for generations. It is a nod to the past and at the same time a statement of the present: Gaja in Barolo, not just in Barbaresco. The vineyards are located in two of Barolo's most important terroirs: La Morra and Serralunga d'Alba. The grapes from La Morra come from the legendary Cerequio cru – the south-east exposed part from which the great Conteisa also comes – and from the Silio vineyard. Grapes from Serralunga, directly adjacent to the Sperss vineyard, give the wine the strength and structure for which this municipality is famous. The vinification follows Gaja's philosophy of separate processing: each vineyard is fermented separately, macerated and matured for twelve months in small French barriques. Only then are the wines blended and matured for a further eighteen months in large tonneau barrels. A total of thirty months before the wine is bottled – time that you can taste.

Serpico is the flagship of Feudi di San Gregorio – a large, monumental Aglianico from vines over 150 years old from the legendary single vineyard "Dal Re" in Sorbo Serpico. The vineyard is located on mineral soils of volcanic origin and is cultivated with painstaking manual labour. 2016 was a moderate year, with a cool spring, a perfect ripening phase in late summer and a late, selective harvest in October – ideal conditions for a wine with depth and balance.

Maroccoli, around four hundred metres above sea level near Sambuca di Sicilia – where limestone with sandy layers forms the foundation and cool night air from the sea provides finesse, while the days are flooded with Sicilian sunshine. Diego Planeta recognised early on that Syrah on this island could be more than just an international variety: a hymn to the Mediterranean light, dry heat and barren soil that forces the vine to fight. The microfauna here is extremely active, the vines have to conquer their water – and produce grapes of exceptional ripeness and concentration.

In the Montebuoni vineyard, high above the hills between Gaiole and Radda, a wine is produced whose name embodies a poetic philosophy. Haiku – the traditional Japanese verse form in three lines, whose power lies in its allusion to nature and which requires clear thinking and imagination. Marco Pallanti and Lorenza Sebasti did not choose this name by chance: like a perfect haiku, their wine combines three elements into a harmonious whole that captures the essence of Tuscan nature in its conciseness. The story of Haiku begins in 2009 with the acquisition of the Montebuoni vineyard, the replanting of which had already been completed in 2001. Three noble grape varieties found their ideal expression on these calcareous soils at an altitude of around 500 metres: 50 percent Sangiovese as Tuscan soul, 25 percent Cabernet Franc as Burgundian elegance and 25 percent Merlot as Bordeaux opulence. This tripartite division not only reflects the classic Haiku structure, but also Marco Pallanti's vision of a perfect balance between regional authenticity and international flair.

First bottled in 1967, Roncaglie (formerly Barbaresco Masseria) comes from a vineyard in Bricco di Neive and is essentially vinified and aged like a Barolo. Since the 2018 vintage, it now comes from a small parcel that used to belong to the Socré Barbaresco winery and is now deliberately released a year later to ensure greater harmony and balance. Floral and spicy notes merge with a core of rich, generous fruit in a generous Barbaresco based on pure resonance. Barbaresco Roncaglie is vinified and matured in the same way as Vietti's single-vineyard Barolos. This means long fermentation, six months in French oak and more than two years in barrique. This, together with the broad shoulders of Neive, results in a noble Nebbiolo with clear hints of Barolo and impressive depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Luce is the iconic wine of the estate of the same name and symbolises the harmonious balance between the elegant structure of Sangiovese and the richness of Merlot. The wine marries the tradition and terroir of the Montalcino region with a personal interpretation of this extraordinary land.

The 1.6-hectare Loreto vineyard is located on a slope right next to the winery and has an ideal south-east exposure. Vigna Loreto is only vinified in the best vintages and is an even more intense interpretation of the Sangiovese grape. On the palate, the texture is both creamy and robust, with a depth and fullness that make it very rich and exceptional. With further aeration, beautiful notes of black fruits, tobacco and spices. Aristocratic, powerful and very long. SUPERIORE.DE

In the vineyards of Torano Nuovo, where the hills of northern Abruzzo lie between the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic Sea, the pepfamily's Trebbiano vines are over 50 years old. Their roots burrow down through the top 40 centimetres of loamy soil into the massive limestone rock that gives this area its mineral character. The temperature fluctuations between day and night, guaranteed by the proximity to the mountain massif, promote the development of intense flavours, while the sea breezes from the Adriatic give the Trebbiano the minerality and saltiness that make it so unmistakable. This Trebbiano Abruzzese – a unique clone that is clearly different from the inferior Trebbiano Toscano – delivers in this "Selezione Vecchie Vigne" the pure essence of what the Abruzzo terroir can produce in white wine.

After almost thirty years of experience in the vinification of the famous Etna Rosso "Rovittello", the Benanti family decided in 2015 to extend the vinification, ageing and refinement of the wine to 60 months. The result is an exclusive Riserva, produced in small quantities from vines over 100 years old from plot no. 341, which is rightly considered one of the best red wines in the region. The Nerello grapes (85% Mascalese/15% Cappuccio) come from a terraced vineyard (pre-phylloxera) in the Contrada Dafara Galluzzo in the upper area of Rovittello, part of the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia.

In the 1930s, Konrad Oberhofer was one of the first in South Tyrol to begin vinifying wine separately from a single, precisely defined parcel. No cuvée, no blending of different vineyards – just this one patch of earth, its vines, its character. An idea that hardly anyone understood at the time and which Paolo Foradori, Oberhofer's son-in-law, later elevated to a philosophy for the entire Hofstätter estate decades later. Pirchschrait – a historic part of the Kolbenhof farm in Söll – has been his monument ever since. What distinguishes the Pirchschrait from all other plots of the Kolbenhof is its tranquillity. Exposed to the east-west to north-east, with a slope angle of 35 per cent, it receives the least amount of sunlight of all the Kolbenhof terraces. While the other sites soak up the Mediterranean light, this one retains a cool precision – and that rare combination of long, even ripening and exceptional ageing potential that only shady sites can offer. The soil is a geological sediment from three eras: glacial dolomite, volcanic porphyry and sandstone all in one.

The Romanesque Pieve di San Marcellino was built in the year 1000. It still stands today – in the middle of the vineyards of Rocca di Montegrossi, seven kilometres south of Gaiole, at the southern tip of the Chianti Classico. The vineyard bears its name. And the vines that surround it are older than most of the appellations that appear on labels today. Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi is a descendant of Baron Bettino Ricasoli – the "Iron Baron" who defined the formula for Chianti Classico in the 19th century. Not as a marketing idea, but as a genetic link to this soil. The vineyard has been certified organic since 2010 and has been planted with Pugnitello alongside Sangiovese since 2006 – an autochthonous Tuscan grape variety that was almost extinct in the 1980s. Pugnitello deepens the colour, thickens the structure and sharpens the profile of the Sangiovese grape. Hand-picked, separate fermentation of both varieties on wild yeasts in upright wooden tanks, 24 months in Allier barriques and tonneau, bottled unfiltered. Only produced in outstanding vintages – the 2020 is one of them.

There are wines that bear the name of their place. And there is this one – it bears the name of the beginning. "Campo delle Piane" was the name of the half hectare of land that Antonio Cerri farmed into old age, when the world around him had long since given up. When Christoph Künzli took over this inheritance at the end of the nineties, it became Le Piane. The wine, which today is simply called Piane, is the essence of this original story – and a tribute to an almost forgotten grape variety: Croatina. The grapes come from the estate's oldest plots, planted between 1910 and 1920 on the hills of Montalbano, Traversagna and Santuario. Centenary roots that reach deep into the volcanic porphyry. Fermented spontaneously, six days on the skins, then matured for two years – first in tonneaux, then in large Slavonian oak vats. No filtration, no intervention. Just time.

The single-vineyard Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is, as always, one of the outstanding wines in this series. It shows the energy and tension so typical of this site, but with a slightly more mature profile than is the norm. Ovello dives straight into the volatile Nebbiolo aromas, with a focus on liquorice, tar, blue flowers and campfire ash. The palate is full-bodied, with flavours of crushed raspberries, juicy Marasca cherries, liquorice and nutmeg as well as firm, tight-knit tannins. The fresh acidity provides tension and balance. Looking at the timeline of Riserva wines, this wine reaches the magical threshold at which Nebbiolo begins to unfold its unique aromatic appeal and mystique ... SUPERIORE.DE

The essence of chance. There are wines that are only created when the stars are right – and Essenza from Fattoria Kappa is one of them. In the language of physics, Kappa means the constant, but at this extraordinary winery on the border between Bolgheri and Maremma, chance reigns supreme. Only in exceptional years, when the Cabernet Franc grapes reach their fullest maturity and complexity, is this rare cru produced – a gamble that only a few winegrowers in Tuscany dare to take. 2016 was one such year of perfection. After a cool, damp winter and spring, July finally brought the longed-for heat and dryness. A welcome rain shower in mid-August cooled things down and paved the way for a textbook September: warm days, cool nights and the dramatic temperature fluctuations that allow Cabernet Franc to reach its peak. While other producers opted for tried and tested Bordeaux blends, Andrea Di Maio – the agronomist from Livorno and one of the three souls of Fattoria Kappa – went it alone with this capricious grape variety.

When Sergio Rossi took over Podere Colombaio from the Biondi-Santi family in 1976, nobody could have guessed that the Milanese advertising expert would become one of the architects of modern Montalcino. He was one of the 24 founders of the Consorzio, one of the first 35 Brunello bottlers of an appellation that will number over 250 by 2024. What he brought with him: the legendary Sangiovese clones of Biondi-Santi, planted on marl and limestone in Canalicchio – vines that are now over forty years old. Brunello 2020 unites two souls: the cool elegance of the north from the historic Canalicchio parcels and the sun-kissed vigour of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. The wine rests for three years in large Slavonian barrels and a further eight months in the bottle – time that you can taste.