WINE ADVOCATE – Trentino-South Tyrol

A tribute to St Mauritius, patron saint of the small hamlet of Söll above Tramin – this is how the name for this characterful Pinot Blanc from the highest vineyards of the traditional winery came about. Between 400 and 600 metres above sea level, where the vines thrive on calcareous clay soil with gravel, the extreme temperature fluctuations between sunny days and cool Alpine nights shape the unmistakably "cool" character of this elegant South Tyrolean white wine.

Straw yellow in colour, fruity and delicate aromas of mountain blossom, peach and apple. Precise and dry on the palate, taut and with a fine acidity structure that lends it freshness and lightness. SUPERIORE.DE

Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. Clear, very broad aroma of apple, citrus, meadow herbs and pear fruit, rich on the palate and with the powerful, taut freshness and invigorating fruit acidity typical of the high altitudes of the Venosta Valley. SUPERIORE.DE

The vines for Pinot Grigio Punggl thrive on soils with a high clay content south of Margreid. Bright straw yellow in colour with a brilliant core. Spicy, fruity aromas with notes of nuts, honey and fresh flowers lend it elegance and charm. Full-bodied and mineral flavour with a juicy structure and long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Terlaner Cuvée (formerly Terlaner Classico) is the wine that best embodies the identity and personality of this iconic agricultural co-operative in South Tyrol. Since its founding in 1893, it has been closely linked to the history of the winery like no other wine. Since the 2013 vintage, its grapes have come from selected vineyards in the Vorberg, Kreuth and Winkl sites. Aromas of tropical and passion fruit, peach, pear and sweet almonds are surrounded by a salty, mineral vein and give this wonderfully juicy white wine finesse and the pure character typical of Terlan. SUPERIORE.DE

Riesling is the Pratzner family's speciality: bright straw yellow with green reflections. Complex nose of flint, lime, white flowers with salty hints. Precise acidity on the palate, which vibrates delicately on the tongue and then draws the wine taut and fresh into the long, juicy final. SUPERIORE.DE

In Campo Rotaliano, this geological treasure chest between the peaks of the Dolomites, Elisabetta Foradori has been rewriting Teroldego history for four decades. What began as a family wine in 1960 is now the epitome of autochthonous excellence. The grapes come from twelve hand-picked plots on nine hectares, with their roots in alluvial sand and dolomite limestone. Fifteen different Teroldego biotypes, developed through years of mass selection, reflect the diversity of this unique terroir. Biodynamic Demeter cultivation since 2002 allows the indigenous grape variety to develop its original identity. Spontaneous fermentation in cement tanks, partly with whole grapes, preserves the lively fruitiness. Twelve months of ageing in a combination of cement and oak give the wine structure without dominance.

Winkl is the winery's second cult wine after the iconic South Tyrolean Sauvignon, Quarz. A wonderfully accentuated wine. Sauvignon Winkl smells of lime, mandarins and mint with a hint of apricot, the bouquet is also reminiscent of crushed rock. Full of character on the palate with a fine acid wire, complex, well-structured, rich in flavour and long. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Manna evokes biblical associations, but the true story is even more beautiful: Franz Haas dedicated this extraordinary wine to his wife Maria Luisa Manna in 1995 – a token of love in bottle form that unites the philosophy of the winery in a single cuvée. What began as an assemblage of Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc was expanded to include Kerner from 2013 onwards – five grape varieties, five personalities that merge into a harmonious symbiosis. The vineyards are located between 350 and 800 metres above sea level in a south-westerly direction on geologically highly diverse soils: dolomite, porphyry, sand and marl give each plot its own character. The grapes ripen at different times and are harvested and vinified separately – chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc ferment in barriques, while Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Kerner ferment in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the young wines are blended and left to rest on the fine lees for around ten months, followed by further months of bottle ageing. This patient approach results in a wine of exceptional complexity.

Fine traditional brut from the Lunelli family, who work tirelessly on the authenticity of their Trentino classics. A wide range of aromas and an elegant flavour with a good structure offer first-class enjoyment on many occasions. On the nose, crisp green apple, tangy lemon and a hint of toasted brioche. On the palate, citrus fruits harmonise with white peaches with a subtle hint of minerality. The bubbles are fine and persistent, the finish refreshing and clean. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Blanc has been part of the Sanct Valentin line since 2001 – born out of the realisation that this long underestimated variety is capable of achieving extraordinary things at the high altitudes of Eppan-Berg. Between 450 and 600 metres, where limestone gravel and clay form the foundation, ten to thirty-two year old vines grow facing south-southeast. Extremely low yields from meticulously selected plots. Hand-picked at the end of September, then two different methods: one half fermented with malolactic fermentation and yeast storage in barriques and tonneaux, the other in large oak barrels. After just under a year, the wine is blended when it is clear what belongs together – then a further eight months of maturation in steel tanks to finalise the balance.

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruit. Delicate buttery notes, very balanced and charismatic, long and powerful on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giulio Ferrari vinified his first bottles of spumante in Via Belentani in 1902, he dreamed of an Italian sparkling wine on a par with French wines. Today, over 120 years later, this dream has long since become a reality – and Ferrari Rosé is living proof of this. The Fratelli Lunelli have taken the founder's legacy to Alpine perfection. This elegant rosé is made from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay in the high altitudes of Trentino. The vineyards stretch across Val d'Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, all with south-easterly to south-westerly exposures on the mountain slopes. Here, the grapes benefit from the perfect symbiosis between Alpine freshness and Mediterranean warmth. The Metodo Classico vinification strictly follows French models. After gentle pressing, the first fermentation takes place, followed by traditional bottle fermentation with the winery's own yeasts. The Spumante matures on the lees for at least 20 months – time, which gives the rosé its characteristic creaminess and complexity.

Stoan has a spicy and floral aroma of ginger, crushed apples, savoury herbs and wet slate. It feels soothingly silky yet upbeat, focusing on ripe orchard fruits, along with a subtle hint of candied citrus for contrast. The palate remains crisp and clean with nuances of grapefruit and lime that linger. Firm pressure on the final, savoury. SUPERIORE.DE

Villa Gresti is an exciting cuvée of Merlot and Carménère that represents a very nice balance between fruit intensity, spice, ripe cherry and sweet tobacco. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a softness and a very attractive, drinkystyle and a rich, fruit-accentuated finish. Classic Bordeaux style. SUPERIORE.DE

The world-famous Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer has been a real benchmark for years and is also a convincing wine in terms of longevity. Bright yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Typically perfect, complex and deep, but also agile and fresh with beautiful nuances. A broad bouquet of rose petals, smoke and oriental spices. On the palate it flows silky smooth, velvety and spicy, lingers for a long time, great! SUPERIORE.DE

Innovation often means leaving old paths and exploring completely new ones. Fuoripista – which means "off the beaten track" – is Elisabetta Foradori's most radical response to conventional Pinot Grigio ideas. What began in 2016 as an experiment with biodynamic winemaker Marco Devigili has evolved into a redefinition of what a white wine can be. Just two hectares on the Campo Rotaliano provide the grapes for this extraordinary project. On the typical alluvial soils of gravel and sand, pergola-trained Pinot Grigio vines thrive, whose fruit takes an unusual path. After being harvested by hand, the de-stemmed berries go straight into Spanish tinajas – the egg-shaped clay amphorae that Elisabetta favours for her revolutionary vinification. The impossible happens here: The grapes remain in contact with their skins for eight months, a process that gives the wine its amber-golden colour and structural complexity.

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

Doran is no coincidence. It shows what happens when French Chardonnay clones meet South Tyrolean limestone soils. The Andrian winery takes exactly the time it needs for this Riserva: twelve months in tonneaux, 30% of which in new French barrels. This is the Burgundy school in its purest form. The grapes come from the highest vineyards around Andrian, between 350 and 450 metres above sea level. This is where the calcareous clay soil is interspersed with white dolomite rock. The microclimate makes all the difference: cooler temperatures than elsewhere, longer ripening time, more acidity. Perfect for a Chardonnay with high standards. Cellar master Rudi Kofler favours full fermentation in wood. Regular batonnage ensures that the wood is elegantly integrated and never becomes dominant. After malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for a further three months in stainless steel – for a final balance between opulence and freshness.

Juvelo is the crown jewel of Andrian. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – while others have long since harvested their grapes, here a few Gewürztraminer vines are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes hang on the vine until they are clearly covered in noble mould. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the grape skin and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are picked by hand, berry by berry. There is no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months of ageing in barriques, time that this wine needs to develop its complexity.

Pinot Nero has always been a challenge for every winemaker. It is a grape variety that places the highest demands on soil, climate and winemaking expertise. The Burgundian noble grape has been cultivated in South Tyrol since 1850, where it has become the region's most important red wine under the name Blauburgunder. Only the best and oldest vineyards in Eppan and the surrounding area are selected for the Sanct Valentin Pinot Nero, which has been part of the winery's prestige line since 1995 – sites between 400 and 550 metres on moraine debris and calcareous gravel. Minimal yields and meticulous care in the vineyard form the basis for a wine of exceptional finesse. The grapes are harvested by hand from the end of September to the beginning of October. After three days of cold maceration, fermentation begins in stainless steel tanks, followed by gentle pressing. Malolactic fermentation and subsequent maturation take place in barriques and tonneaux. After around twelve months, the wine is blended before maturing for a further six months in large wooden barrels – a combination that combines structure with Burgundian class.

The name alone reveals the poetry of this vintage sparkling wine. For decades, Perlé has been considered the essence of Ferrari's art, born from a meticulous selection of the best Chardonnay grapes from the Trentino mountains. The grapes for this Millesimato come from altitudes between 300 and 600 metres. Here, where the vines are bathed in the mountain sun all day long but rest in the cool mountain air at night, the Chardonnay develops the mineral depth and aromatic complexity that makes Perlé so unmistakable. The Lunelli family only selects the very best batches – the grapes that most purely reflect the terroir. Perlé matures for almost five years on the fine yeasts – an exceptionally patient maturation period that gives the sparkling wine its characteristic creaminess and delicate yeast notes that harmonise perfectly with the fruity elegance of the Chardonnay.

Tor di Lupo, the Wolf's Gate – a name that inspires respect. The flagship of Andriano was one of the very first premium Lagrein in South Tyrol. You could say that it is a primeval rock of South Tyrolean quality winegrowing. Since the early days, the winery has produced this Riserva from grapes from Gries near Bolzano, the classic home of Lagrein.

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