VINOUS

"Our winery is situated right in the heart of the vineyard," says Luigi Moio, "and the time between harvest and crushing is practically zero; the grapes reach the vat at their peak of freshness, without any chance of them changing." A statement that sums up the philosophy of this estate, founded in 2001 together with Laura Di Marzio. Moio, a professor of oenology at the University of Federico II in Naples and, since 2015, president of the Oenology Commission of the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) in Paris, is carrying on a legacy established by his father, Michele Moio – a legendary winemaker from Mondragone who, in the 1950s, revived Falerno, one of the world’s oldest wines.

Guado al Tasso presents itself with a warm-toned bouquet and an abundance of fruit that is just as convincing as its harmonious structure. Deep, dark, rich ruby-purple colour. Very clear and intense nose, with aromas of blackberries, cassis and dark cherries, underpinned by fine, spicy notes with hints of white pepper and leather. Very juicy on the attack and on the palate, with plenty of sweet flavour, elegant tannins and a very long finish. A finesse-rich red that offers maximum drinking pleasure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the Vigneti del Versante 2019 come from the Scopeta, Cancello Rosso and Bassolino di Sopra vineyards. Bright red colour. Very deep, complex, expressive aromas of red cherries, raspberries, balsamic oils, violets and sweet spices on the highly perfumed nose, clearly recognising the terroir of Sesta. Great fibre and density on the palate, with much of this power coming from the heavier soils of the vineyards. The overall expression is profound and precise, with pungent aromas of wild berries, liquorice, lavender and lightly toasted almonds. Violets on the finish, supported by a silky, fine texture. One of the most stunning Brunello from the dream 2019 vintage, which, as always, comes onto the market a year later than its neighbours. SUPERIORE.DE

Almost every year, Barolo Campè takes top places among its high-calibre competitors. Fittingly, the majestic red wine bears the king of beasts, a lion, on its ornate yellow label. We think: There could hardly be a better graphic interpretation of this deep and stately wine. An all-round successful experience. Aromas of flowers and berries on the nose, with notes of vanilla and a hint of rosebud, full-bodied and very concentrated, with great, initially still chewy tannins and a long, powerful final. SUPERIORE.DE

Monteverro - a classic French blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot - is a great cru from the Maremma and brims with opulence and diversity. Rich, dark ruby with a black core. Incredibly rich in aromas of dark fruits, chocolate and spices, soft, full body, polished tannins. It is impossible to exaggerate the joy of the magnificence of this wine. SUPERIORE.DE

In the tranquil stillness of Calderara Sottana, where time follows its own rules, lies a sanctuary: La Vigna di Don pep. Here, on barely 0.8 hectares of ancient volcanic soil, the vines have worked a miracle: they survived the great phylloxera disaster that ravaged the whole of Europe more than a century ago and destroyed millions of vineyards. These few rows of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese vines, which have been rooted in the stony soils of the elliptical terroir since 1880, are living witnesses to over 140 years of viticultural history. They stand there like aged princesses in a royal garden; their charming wrinkles tell of generations they have seen come and go, whilst they themselves have remained steadfast.

In 1998, Brancaia moved to the Maremma. It was no mere whim, but a conscious decision: this coastal landscape north of Grosseto, with its sandy loam soils, Mediterranean climate and the salty breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea, was a terroir that would respond in its own way – if the right grape varieties were planted. Ilatraia’s answer is clear: three Bordeaux varieties, no artificial irrigation; roots reaching deep into the sandy subsoil. At altitudes of 75 to 175 metres, facing west to south-west, on soil comprising two-thirds sand and one-third silt and clay. The Mediterranean climate is uncompromising: very hot summers, mild winters, and a marked temperature range between day and night. What ripens here does so without assistance – and you can taste it.

The Vigna del Sorbo vineyard is located directly in front of the winery. The south-west facing vineyard with Galestro soils covers 8 hectares at an altitude of 450 metres. The Riserva was first produced in 1985 and has been labelled Gran Selezione since the 2010 vintage.

This wine is the essence of Sangiovese from the municipality of Radda and the result of a rigorous selection of Sangiovese grapes from the estate's best vineyards. An elegant, terroir-influenced red that (in Sean's words) "is made the way we like it."

"Vürsù" – the longing, the passion, the insatiable desire. This is what Giorgio Rivetti called the feeling that drove him in 2000 when he acquired the first hectares in Grinzane Cavour and thus realised his greatest dream: to create his own Barolo. The Vigna Campè covers eight hectares, majestically situated at an altitude of 280 metres with a perfect southern exposure, where seventy-year-old Nebbiolo vines take root in alluvial soils with calcareous clay. Giorgio immediately recognised the extraordinary potential of this site, which had previously been cultivated by a producer who never intended to produce great wines. All the grapes went to other Barolo producers as bulk wine. But Giorgio saw what others had overlooked: the terroir for one of Piedmont's greatest Barolo. He reduced yields by 75 per cent, banned all chemicals in the vineyard and worked the vines with horses - Morro and Pipo still plough between the venerable vines today.

The name already gives away the meaning: "Bepi's red wine", dedicated to Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli, the man who took over his father's winery after the war and led it to worldwide fame. But this wine is not a nostalgic gesture – it is the answer to one of the most difficult questions in viticulture: what does a perfectionist do in a year when nature does not give enough for an Amarone? 2016 was such a year. Cooler conditions, demanding ripeness – not an Amarone vintage by Quintarelli's uncompromising standards. So the family vinified Rosso del Bepi instead, that rare wine that is only produced in such years and shows what great producers can achieve with patience and mastery, even from difficult harvests. The grapes – 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese – are dried as for Amarone. Twenty days of maceration, followed by 45 days of slow fermentation. This is followed by 84 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, seven years of patience.

"Per Bacco!" – by the Bacchus! – is what people shout in Italy when something extraordinary happens. And that's exactly what happens in this glass: a Nebbiolo that carries the DNA of fifteen Barolo Grand Cru vineyards, complemented by selected Barbaresco parcels, vinified like a great Barolo – but accessible, lively and affordable. Each individual vineyard is vinified separately, matured for two years in large oak barrels and then selected for blending.

Luigi Moio is one of the most famous professors of viticulture and oenology in Italy and the Cru Vigna Quintodecimo is indisputably one of the most exciting and complex Taurasi Riserva in Campania. This wine possesses a unique and seductive class, a richness and elegance that outshines the entire volcanic appellation. The initially restrained bouquet only gradually opens up in layers, releasing new impressions every minute. Violets, ripe blackberries, blueberry skins, plums and white smoke unfold like a surprise bag and are reflected in the energetic mouthfeel together with finely woven tannins and a fresh interplay of fruit and acidity. The texture is impressively silky and emphasises the immense elegance and harmony of this exceptional Aglianico, which will reach its most exciting phase in 10-15 years at the earliest. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Prapò comes from Serralunga d'Alba and is, as expected, the most powerful and structured of the various single-vineyard wines from this ambitious estate. At the same time, it is also the most closed at the beginning and, with its introverted nature, is made for a long ageing period. This site is one of the last where the grapes ripen, giving them plenty of time to develop slowly and carefully each year.

Tenuta Tignanello is located in the heart of Chianti Classico on the gentle hills between the valleys of the Greve and Pesa rivers and comprises 319 hectares of land, of which around 130 are planted with vines. The estate's vineyards include two jewels: Tignanello and Solaia, which are located on the same hill, on calcareous and schistose marl soils of marine origin from the Pliocene, and which benefit from warm days and fresh nights during the growing season. Two wines are produced from these vineyards, which many years ago had the potential to become the starting point of the Italian wine renaissance. Nothing has changed to this day.

There are wines that have changed the history of their country. Not by chance, not because of a passing trend – but through a single, well-founded act of provocation. In 1971, Piero Antinori commissioned one of the most prominent Italian graphic designers of his time to design the label for his new wine: Silvio Coppola, known for book covers and designer furniture, for his austerity and minimalist style. The label was minimalist – but the wine behind it was a revolution. No Trebbiano, no Malvasia. No white grapes in the red wine, as the Chianti regulations had stipulated since Ricasoli's time. Instead: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Barrique instead of large casks. A wine that consequently fell outside the DOC classification – and was launched on the market as a simple Vino da Tavola. Piero Antinori signed the label with his father Niccolò's name: a gesture of gratitude for the trust that had allowed him the audacity to do so in the first place.

Sometimes a vineyard reveals secrets that have been hidden beneath the surface for millions of years. When Antonio Moretti Cuseri acquired the plot north of Via Bolgherese, he had no idea that his vines would drive their roots through an extraordinary layer of clay – a fossilised seabed from prehistoric times that gives the Cabernet Franc a mineral depth that can only be found in a few places in the world. With the first vintage of 2020, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family created their Bolgheri Superiore – aola di Orma, a tribute to the unique terroir expression that has made the estate an icon among Tuscany's coastal wines. On a south-west-facing single vineyard of just a few hectares, 15 to 20-year-old vines are cultivated organically. The speciality: 85 percent Cabernet Franc forms the backbone of this cuvée, supplemented by just 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon – a bold departure from the Merlot-dominated classics of Bolgheri. The constant sea breeze ensures ideal ripening conditions and prevents the herbaceous notes that Cabernet Franc can often develop in cooler climates.

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

There are vintages that change a winery forever. 2016 was such a turning point for Sottimano. After years of meticulous, consistent biodynamic work in the vineyards, Andrea Sottimano reached a point this year where cru and terroir expressed themselves with a clarity and precision that he had never experienced before. The decision to create a Riserva was not a continuation of tradition – previously, old vines from Pajoré and Cottà had been combined for this purpose –but a new beginning, a return to the pure terroir of a single vineyard: Currá. Andrea selected the best grapes for this premium selection from the oldest plots of this legendary 2.8-hectare cru in Neive, where 55 to 75-year-old Nebbiolo vines sink their roots deep into pure limestone. Only 3,000 bottles were intended to tell the story of this exceptional vintage – of a wine that combines complexity, elegance and richness like no other in the portfolio. The Riserva matures for 22 to 24 months in barrels, partly on the fine lees, before being bottled unfiltered and unfined and left to rest in the bottle for a few more years.

The already very well-balanced and classic 2018 vintage can gain again with Fuligni, because no Riserva was produced. Ruby red with orange reflections. On the nose, after some aeration, ripe morello cherries, violets, roses and lots of Mediterranean scrub. Powerful on the palate, the silky tannins give it elegance and the necessary balance, its complexity comes to the fore with every sip. This very authentic and strongly focused Brunello can be counted among the best of the vintage, its wonderfully balanced proportions and its juiciness will give it further impetus in the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE