VINOUS

Etna is one of Italy's most fascinating wine regions and Andrea Franchetti is probably the most fanatical producer in this area. Added to this are eighty-year-old indigenous Nerello Mascalese vines. The single vineyard Contrada Porcaria has a thoroughly masculine personality. Darkly scented with ripe fruit and menthol, the palate is predominantly spice and mineral with many other facets. The course and the final are rich, dense and very convincing. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Rio Sordo stands alone. It is the southernmost vineyard of the Produttori del Barbaresco, a narrow strip stretching from north to south and bordering the municipality of Treiso to the west. The soils are light in colour, low in limestone and airy – quite unlike the clay-rich slopes to the north or the limestone-rich sites in the centre. And it is precisely this 'less' that leads to a 'more': silkiness. Tannins that never overwhelm, but rather accompany the wine. A surface that seduces before revealing its depth. The winemaking process is the same as for all Produttori del Barbaresco vineyards: 28 days' maceration, more than thirty months in Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. First vinified as a single vineyard in 1978 – at a time when the world was just beginning to take Barbaresco seriously.

To the north, Pora borders a vertical rocky ridge that drops steeply down to the Tanaro – covered by a dense oak forest, renowned for its white truffles. This is no coincidence. The river is close by, and its influence is palpable: summer mornings are milder than elsewhere, the humidity is higher, and the soil is more fertile than in most other vineyards belonging to the Produttori del Barbaresco. What the vines produce is a Nebbiolo with a particular approachability – a gentle touch that does not deny the traditional craftsmanship. For the craftsmanship is uncompromising: 28 days' maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. Domizio Cavazza was one of the first to include Pora 1894 on his vineyard map; the Produttori have been bottling it separately since 1967.

There are wines that tell stories even before you've tasted them. This is one of them. Its name – the Hill of the Magpies – refers to that special vineyard where these elegant birds build their nests and from where the view sweeps unobstructed across the Tyrrhenian Sea. Here, where the salty Mediterranean breeze meets volcanic soil, one of Tuscany's most innovative white wines has been produced for more than two decades. It embodies a refreshing spirit which, to quote: "is as delicate as a breeze, yet at the same time lush and self-assured". This poetic description hits the nail on the head: Poggio alle Gazze is Ornellaia's answer to the question of what a white wine from Bolgheri might be like if it possessed the elegance and depth of the great reds. Six months' ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, followed by the assembly of the final blend and a further 12 months' bottle ageing, complete this masterpiece of white winemaking.

Fragore by Donnafugata from the Etna region of Montelaguardia in Randazzo joins the collection of iconic wines Mille e una Notte and Ben Ryè. With only 15,000 bottles, Donnafugata has produced a limited edition treasure. Fragore means thunder in Italian and refers to the volcanic thunder of Mount Etna, Europe's highest and most active volcano. Grapes of the autochthonous Nerello Mascalese grape variety from selected vineyards were used.

The Riecine vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti has a history dating back to the 11th century. Today's vineyards grow between 430 and 600 metres above sea level on stony, alluvial limestone soils over a subsoil of pure limestone - rock that was once washed here from the Monterossi hill by the ancient Massellone river (once called "Clante", the origin of the name "Chianti"). Since 2006, La Gioia has been a pure Sangiovese, a decision that perfectly reflects the philosophy of the estate: absolute concentration on the noblest of all Tuscan grape varieties.

With its 2020 Brunello di Montalcino, Tenuta Argiano shows once again why this historic winery is one of the leading voices in Montalcino. The Sangiovese Grosso grapes come from 60 hectares of vineyards around the 16th century villa, whose soils are characterised by clay, limestone and galestro. The year 2020 began with a mild winter and a consistently warm spring. A stable summer without extreme heat peaks and cool nights in September allowed the grapes to ripen evenly and completely. The grapes were harvest by hand in several stages, followed by careful vinification in cement and steel tanks. The wine then matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and tonneaux to harmoniously combine structure and elegance.

In 1978, the first bottle of Brunello from Casanova di Neri found its way onto the market – then still called "Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello", five years after the first harvest. Giovanni Neri had found his dream and his son Giacomo began to realise it. The white label was there from the very beginning – and still is today. The Brunello White Label comes from specially designated vineyards around Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino – the same vineyards from which the estate has been making its Brunello for over four decades. After a cool, slow spring, 2021 brought a balancing, dry summer and even ripening into September.

The name was finally established by the official MGA classification in 2007: Muncagota – the Piedmontese dialect term for what had been known as Moccagatta for decades. The wine, the winegrower and the soil remained the same. The vineyard is situated to the south-east of the village centre, thus facing the morning light, which reaches the grapes earlier than on the west-facing slopes. The soil is rich in limestone, the yield is modest – and the character it imparts to the Nebbiolo is unusual for a Barbaresco vineyard: floral, almost minty and herbaceous, with a freshness that holds its own even in warm vintages. The Produttori del Barbaresco have been vinifying Muncagota since 1967, using the same method as for all the cooperative's other vineyards: 28 days' maceration, thirty months or more in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a further year in the bottle. The same method is used for all wines; the differences stem solely from the terroir.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Mastrojanni's 2020 vintage has a juicy, fleshy feel that adds to the overall intensity of the wine. In the glass, rich fruit, baking spices and a hint of rum cake. The wine is dark and velvety in appearance, the mouthfeel is balanced, smooth and lingering. It is quickly accessible with its full-bodied appeal and you can enjoy this wine over the next few years without having to wait long. SUPERIORE.DE

Andrea Franchetti discovered this tiny, terraced plot back in 2000 – a narrow strip of black sand, as fine as face powder, between 870 and 950 metres above sea level on the northern Etna slope. Here, on the highest Chardonnay vineyard in Italy, he recognised an exceptional habitat for this Burgundian grape variety. However, it was only after years of precise observation, micro-vinifications at various stages of maturation and the realisation that this site has a personality all of its own that the estate decided to bottle the wine separately as Contrada PC in 2018. 36 hours of maceration, fermentation in neutral 20-hectolitre barrels, then 17 months of ageing in large oak barrels – at least six months on the fine lees to enrich the wine and emphasise its potential. The naturally occurring malolactic fermentation in the barrel gives the wine a creamy fullness without disguising its mineral precision. Bottled unfiltered according to the cycles of the waning moon, followed by a further year of bottle ageing to reach its full potential.

The individual parcels (micro-locations) on Etna are called Contrade and the Contrada Passochianche (PC) is the Chardonnay cru from the magical hand of Andrea Franchetti. The visionary, who sadly passed away in 2021, planted high-density Chardonnay here at an altitude of around 900 metres back in 2000. The 2018 vintage marked the debut of a wine that impressively reflects Franchetti's many years of experience on Etna. Like all Contrade wines, it has its very own personality and demonstrates very clearly how a grape variety gains its very own form of expression in different locations. Just 2,660 bottles of this fresh, characterful and salty-mineral Chardonnay were filled. SUPERIORE.DE

Ruby garnet colour, fine violet note and many spices in the bouquet. Dense and compact with taut tannin and sweet fruit melt. Given time, this already very elegant red (age of the vines: 100 years, production: 4,000 bottles) is at the beginning of a long, promising development. SUPERIORE.DE

A textbook Pian delle Vigne: a full bouquet of small red berries, brown spices, mocha and tobacco, before musky cherries and sage follow. Its cool, creamy texture introduces a dense wave of ripe red and black fruits, with salty minerals and fine-grained tannins providing grip. It will show its full beauty in a few years, but with sufficient aeration it is already a pleasure today! SUPERIORE.DE

Katia and Luigi's Brunello di Montalcino opens with dark fruits, cherries, forest herbs and dried plums. This is accompanied by a fine fruity sweetness, framed by notes of tar, smoke and exotic spices. The dark and ripe intensity of the fruit is closely interwoven with the flavours of oak and the stately proportions of the wine. The long and well-structured finish is characterised by liquorice and mint, flanked by a layer of fine tannins. What we particularly like about this Brunello is that it is already full of finesse and class and is already showing its beauty at a young age. SUPERIORE.DE

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated close to nature. This very accessible Barolo is straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing candour. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol, followed by a broad and multi-layered fruity palate with plenty of juice and power, supportive tannins and a full, long, mineral and minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Passopisciaro's Contrada C is an exquisite red with a dark sensual fruit bouquet. Stylistically like a great Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo, of remarkable intensity on the palate until the lingering final. A muscular and weightless wine at the same time. SUPERIORE.DE

In Valdarno di Sopra, where Tuscan hills meet the foothills of the Apennines and time itself seems to pause, one of the most fascinating love stories in wine is born. Carnasciale is more than just a wine – it is the legacy of a vision that began in Berlin in 1963, when Bettina Schnabel and Wolf Rogosky met. Their love led them via New York to Mercatale Valdarno, where they bought an abandoned estate in 1972 and realised a dream: to create the most unique wine in the world. The secret lies in Caberlot, an enigmatic grape variety that agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered in the late 1960s in an overgrown vineyard near Padua – a natural cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot that is not cultivated anywhere else in the world. When a devastating frost destroyed the olive trees in 1985, Wolf Rogosky saw his chance: in their place, he planted the first Caberlot vineyard with a revolutionary 10,000 vines per hectare. Superstitiously, he buried a bottle of Sassicaia under the first vine – a ritual that was to point the way to future success.

Ruby garnet colour, fine violet and rose notes and many spices in the bouquet. Dense and compact with taut tannin and sweet fruit melt. Given time, this captivating red is at the beginning of a long, promising development. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Manna evokes biblical associations, but the true story is even more beautiful: Franz Haas dedicated this extraordinary wine to his wife Maria Luisa Manna in 1995 – a token of love in bottle form that unites the philosophy of the winery in a single cuvée. What began as an assemblage of Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc was expanded to include Kerner from 2013 onwards – five grape varieties, five personalities that merge into a harmonious symbiosis. The vineyards are located between 350 and 800 metres above sea level in a south-westerly direction on geologically highly diverse soils: dolomite, porphyry, sand and marl give each plot its own character. The grapes ripen at different times and are harvested and vinified separately – chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc ferment in barriques, while Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Kerner ferment in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the young wines are blended and left to rest on the fine lees for around ten months, followed by further months of bottle ageing. This patient approach results in a wine of exceptional complexity.

Carnasciale Botte Grande is a fascinating expression of that Tuscan individuality which makes the small Il Carnasciale vineyard, perched high above the Arno Valley, so unique. This single-varietal Caberlot – a rare, almost unknown variety and a cross between Cabernet and Merlot – grows on barren, stony terraced slopes at altitudes of up to 520 metres above sea level. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a warm, though not extreme, summer and cool nights in September – ideal conditions for a slow, phenolically mature harvest.