Organic White Wine

There is a poetic play on words behind this rare white wine: Pinner – born from PINot NERo, as if the name itself were a wink from the Cavallottos. On the north-eastern slopes of the Cru Vignolo, original Champagne clones of Pinot Nero have been rooted in chalky-clayey soils with veins of sand since 1972 – a geological rarity that gives this Blanc de Noirs its unmistakable minerality. The vinification is a balancing act between tradition and innovation: after the gentlest pneumatic pressing without skin contact, the must ferments for 45 days at a cool 16-18°C in stainless steel tanks. Nine months of sur lie ageing with daily bâtonnage create the creamy texture that distinguishes Pinner from simple white wines.

"LUI XXI" is a rare voice from the heart of Alois Lageder's vineyard thinking. The small parcel from which it originates has been producing exceptional harvestfor years – it is one of the hottest and most labour-intensive sites in the family. The planting material is special, the cultivation demanding and the fruit quality uncompromising. In 2021, the decision was made to bottle the result separately – pure, unadorned and clear as mountain air. The grapes were harvested on 25 August: half as whole bunches, half destemmed and gently crushed. After five days of maceration, both fractions were pressed together and transferred to a single 13-hectolitre wooden barrel. Fermentation, malolactic fermentation and maturation on the lees took place there for a total of eleven months. The wine was bottled in August 2022 – unfiltered and minimally agitated, with maximum expression of origin.

A white rarity from the heart of Chianti Classico: Il Bianco 30 anni by Gagliole is a remarkable exception in a terroir dominated by red wine. The white grape varieties of this exceptional cuvée have thrived for over 45 years on the historic dry-stone terraces of Castellina in Chianti, which were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. The blend of 60 per cent Procanico (a local Trebbiano clone), 30 per cent Viognier and 10 per cent Malvasia Bianca embodies the visionary signature of the Swiss Bär-Bettschart family. These grapes ripen particularly slowly on the Galestro-rich soils at an altitude of 420 metres, between fragrant roses and centuries-old olive trees – they are among the last to be harvested and develop exceptionally thick skins, which give the wine its intense flavour. Vinification is carried out separately for each grape variety: Procanico and Malvasia mature for seven months sur lies in French oak barrels, while the Viognier retains its fresh fruitiness in steel tanks. After blending, a further three months of ageing in the bottle follows in a climate-controlled cellar.

Now in its 30th vintage, it has long been an icon of modern Sicilian viticulture: Planetas Chardonnay combines French grape variety tradition with the sun-kissed terroir of the south and produces one of Italy's most distinctive white wines year after year. The grapes come from two altitudes, Ulmo at 250 metres and Maroccoli at 415 metres above sea level. The colour in the glass is a brilliant golden yellow with light greenish reflections. The aroma is intense and refined: yellow tropical fruit, toasted almonds, citrus blossom, vanilla, wet stone and a hint of salty butter. Dense and full-bodied on the palate, with ripe fruit, a perfect balance between freshness and creaminess, fine flavour and a long, elegant finish. A cult wine that combines Mediterranean richness with Burgundian noblesse. Ideal with lobster, fried fish, poultry in a butter sauce or as a great white wine on its own. SUPERIORE.DE

Eichhorn vineyard – the name sounds like South Tyrol, like centuries-old vines rooted in sandy loam soils on volcanic porphyry weathered rock. As with the Sauvignon, this parcel is also located within the Tenuta Lieben Aich in Terlan, 300 metres above sea level, south-west exposed to the mild breeze. But where Tannenberg aims for maximum mineral tension, Eichhorn seeks a balance between Alpine clarity and Mediterranean fullness. This is where Pinot Bianco – pinot Bianco, as South Tyroleans call it – a variety that oscillates between restraint and expression. After a wet spring and hot summer, 2024 brought a golden autumn that allowed for physiologically perfectly ripe grapes. The grapes were harvested by hand at the end of September, striking an ideal balance between ripeness, freshness and moderate alcohol – a vintage that combines cool character with ripe fruit. The yield was 50 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed berries remain in the press for eight hours for maceration – this is shorter than for Sauvignons because Pinot Blanc is more subtle in its use of structure. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in wooden barrels, followed by nine months of ageing on the fine lees.

Tannenberg – a parcel within the Lieben Aich vineyard that stands alone. While the Lieben Aich represents the entire Tenuta, this Sauvignon concentrates on a specific parcel: the one with the most pronounced mineral structure. South-western slope, 300 metres above sea level, warm and breezy microclimate. The soils of sandy loam over porphyry weathered rock are water-permeable and low in nutrients – conditions that require concentration. 2024 was a challenging vintage: a wet spring, then a hot and dry summer, followed by a golden autumn that allowed for perfect physiological ripeness. In mid-September, the grapes showed ripe fruit, cool character and moderate alcohol – ideal conditions for long-lasting wines with tension. The yield per hectare was 43 hectolitres. Vinification follows Manincor's biodynamic philosophy: the destemmed berries macerate on the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Spontaneous fermentation with the grapes' own yeasts takes place in wooden barrels, followed by nine months of ageing on the fine lees. The phases of the moon determine sowing, cultivation and harvesting: Rudolf Steiner's principles, consistently implemented. 11,900 bottles and 217 magnums were filled.

When the joy of experimentation meets biodynamic consistency, wines like this Bronner from Alois Lageder's Kometen series are born. Only 259 bottles were produced – from a single barrique. The Bronner grape variety, a fungus-resistant cross between Märzling and Saint Laurent, is considered a first-generation PIWI variety. While such grape varieties are increasingly being promoted in cultivation, they are still met with reluctance in sales. This wine is impressive proof of their potential.

"Curiosity about the future" – is the motto of this extraordinary comet, which is not just a wine, but a climate change experiment. For many years, Alois Lageder has been working on the question of which grape varieties are suitable for future higher average temperatures and more extreme weather conditions in South Tyrol. The answer: plant grape varieties from southern wine-growing regions of Europe and observe how they behave in cooler environments. The hypothesis was that these varieties would develop higher acidity and moderate sugar levels in South Tyrol. Today, VIO XIII is one of the most successful experiments in this series.

Limited anniversary edition with a special label to celebrate the birthday of the icon of modern Sicilian viticulture: 30 years of Planeta Chardonnay – and the label is on fire to mark the anniversary. Not really, but almost: "On Fire" is the name of Claire Fontaine's work, which adorns the 2024 vintage in a limited edition. Founded in Paris in 2004 and based in Palermo since 2017, the artist collective – whose work "Foreigners Everywhere" gave the Venice Biennale 2024 its title – has turned the flame emoji into a light sculpture: detached from the digital, it has become physical and irritatingly beautiful. The original hangs in Ulmo's Studiolo, just a few steps away from the Chardonnay vines. The special edition appears on 300 Jeroboams – and only one of six 0.75 litre bottles per 6-bottle carton bears the art label. The proceeds will go towards "A Long and Magnificent Walk", a greening project in the archaeological park of Selinunte: a symbolic act against the fires that threaten Sicily every summer. In this way, an anniversary becomes a statement – and a Chardonnay becomes a manifesto.

The pioneer of Riesling on Italian soil is Aldo Vajra. Already fascinated by the variety as a student, he planted the first vines of the White Riesling variety in the Langa. Very light yellow-green in colour when young, developing into a strong straw yellow. The flavours of the noble Pètracine also take a varied course. Starting with peach and apricot, delicate floral and citrus notes follow in the middle, while minerality takes centre stage as the wine matures. Harmonious and precisely structured on the palate, almost austere, fascinatingly complex and long. Great ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Fiano Pietraincatenata is the winery's flagship white wine and takes the grape variety to a whole new level. The bouquet is a fascinating blend of grapefruit, lime zest and peach with a hint of sweet smoke as it warms up in the glass. Silky yet savoury to the core on the palate. A cornucopia of citrus fruits and minerals completes the green apple fruit. Tense and invigorating as it progresses and finishes, but still well suited to further and exciting bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The Viognier and Chardonnay vines grow on Caiarossa's most calcareous terroir. The grapes are fermented separately in oak barrels, matured on the lees and blended at the end, with little or no racking in order to produce the wine with as little oxygen contact as possible. The result is a precise and clean white wine that, with its beautiful volume, depth and smoothness with fragrant flavours of flowers and almonds, goes well with a delicate and fragrant pesto. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

Innovation often means leaving old paths and exploring completely new ones. Fuoripista – which means "off the beaten track" – is Elisabetta Foradori's most radical response to conventional Pinot Grigio ideas. What began in 2016 as an experiment with biodynamic winemaker Marco Devigili has evolved into a redefinition of what a white wine can be. Just two hectares on the Campo Rotaliano provide the grapes for this extraordinary project. On the typical alluvial soils of gravel and sand, pergola-trained Pinot Grigio vines thrive, whose fruit takes an unusual path. After being harvested by hand, the de-stemmed berries go straight into Spanish tinajas – the egg-shaped clay amphorae that Elisabetta favours for her revolutionary vinification. The impossible happens here: The grapes remain in contact with their skins for eight months, a process that gives the wine its amber-golden colour and structural complexity.

The grapes for the excellent Chardonnay Bastia come from high-altitude, south-west-facing plots in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils with veins of clay and sand provide tension and fine minerality. Pale straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. Yellow apple, pear and ripe lemon on the nose, accompanied by hints of white flowers, fresh almonds and subtle vanilla notes. Fresh and harmonious on the palate, with clear fruit, fine acidity and a creamy texture that comes from ageing partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in used barriques. An elegant, terroir-influenced Chardonnay from high-altitude Barolo vineyards with the very best Burgundy charm and great development potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, who runs the estate together with her husband Michael, gave her name to this Chardonnay. A wine that combines elegance with determination, finesse with power. Half of the grapes come from two contrasting worlds: Terlan Lieben Aich at 300 metres, exposed to the west, where loamy sandy soil on volcanic porphyry nourishes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And Kaltern Mazzon – the steepest vineyard in Manincor, the "Leiten" with a gradient of up to 100 per cent. Here, Chardonnay and Viognier are rooted between 350 and 400 metres in calcareous loess loam, facing south-west towards the light. Two soils, two microclimates, one vision. The destemmed berries macerate in the press for four hours – longer than the Eichhorn, shorter than the Sauvignons. Finesse is the top priority, the pressing process is slow and careful. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in wooden barrels of various sizes, followed by nine months of ageing on the fine lees. Here, the aroma and structure are refined into the density that characterises Sophie.

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

It was 2007 when Marc de Grazia tasted a 42-year-old Carricante for the first time – and that moment changed everything. Three different occasions, three different bottles, but always the same revelation: a wine of such impeccable beauty and youthful vigour despite its venerable age that the Etna pioneer knew immediately: he wanted to create a wine like this himself. This vision gave rise to Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito, a homage to the past and at the same time a manifesto for the future. In the Contrada Santo Spirito, at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Carricante vines thrive on deep black volcanic soil, rich in ash from past eruptions. Here, where for centuries only red grapes were cultivated, Marc dared to do the seemingly impossible: world-class, single-varietal white crus.

While Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Only a few kilometres away, yet geologically different, this contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly next to the winery – and here the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir is revealed. Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures in Calderara Sottana: pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Etna, only three have this pristine geological fingerprint and Calderara is one of them. While the Santo Spirito impresses with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamy and warmer.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a feat: an elegant Vermentino that combines origin, grape variety and cultivation method with rare depth. The grapes come from organically cultivated plots at coastal altitudes – constantly ventilated, but characterised by intense sunshine and a high day/night temperature gradient. The combination of maritime breezes and calcareous soils creates a white wine of impressive substance.

In 1991, Alois Lageder succeeded in acquiring Casòn Hirschprunn, a historic estate that was mentioned in documents as early as the 13th century and today forms the spiritual heart of Lageder's biodynamic philosophy. Here, in the Renaissance palazzo in the middle of Magreid, where over 30 hectares of vineyards between 230 and 360 metres adorn the gentle slopes of the Margreider Schuttkegel, a revolution began in 1995: the first biodynamic experiments on Italian soil, which made the winery one of the pioneers of this holistic form of cultivation. "Tasting the unpredictable" – is how Alois Lageder himself defines the nature of this extraordinary white wine, which epitomises the joy of experimentation and innovative strength of the estate like no other.