Nerello

The annual production of this boutique winery on Etna is just 9,000 bottles. At an altitude of 950 metres above sea level, the one and a half hectares of vines are divided into eight tiny plots and have been gradually bought up by the well-known Oenologist. The area is planted with Nerello Mascalese bush vines, which have been spared the phylloxera phylloxera and make their way through the lava-covered terraces.

The Grand Cru Sopra il Pozzo is Graci's personal homage to a tiny section of land within the Contrada Arcurìa – a higher part, stony, barren, cool, at around 750 metres above sea level. The soil: decomposed lava basalt, ash, pumice. Low in nutrients, but full of energy. Old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted here in bush form in harmony with the centuries-old cultural landscape of the northern slope of Mount Etna. The 2019 vintage was balanced and significantly cooler than its predecessors, characterised by a long vegetation cycle with late harvest. The result: an Etna Rosso with precise fruit, lively acidity and clear linearity – less volume, more depth. Vinification is classic: spontaneous fermentation with maceration for approx. 30 days, followed by ageing for 24 months in large neutral barrels.

In the silent eternity of Calderara Sottana, where time writes its own laws, lies a sanctuary: La Vigna di Don pep. Here, on barely 0.8 hectares of ancient volcanic soil, the vines have performed a miracle: they survived the great catastrophe of phylloxera, which struck the whole of Europe more than a century ago and destroyed millions of vineyards. These few rows of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese vines, which have been rooted in the stony soil of the elliptical terroir since 1880, are living witnesses to over 140 years of viticultural history. They stand there like aged princesses in a royal garden, their charming wrinkles telling of generations that have seen them come and go, while they themselves have remained steadfast. Don pep, the legendary farmer who dedicated 70 years of his life to these precious vines, recognised their extraordinary nature. He nurtured them with infinite devotion, day after day, year after year, as if he knew he was the guardian of a priceless heritage. His love and understanding for these ancient vines saved them from oblivion - and Marco de Grazia honoured this dedication by giving the vineyard his name.

The Nerello Mascalese vines of Contrada Montedolce were planted in 1975. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, north-northeast, 730 to 750 metres. Low yield, high concentration – a depth that younger plants simply cannot reach. 2021 was a dry, concentrated year on Mount Etna – and an exceptionally good one for the Nerello Mascalese: the vines struggled for water, the grapes remained small and the flavour became compact. Davide Rosso harvests by hand in mid-October, vinifies for ten days in stainless steel with daily pumping over and a délestage at half-time. The wine is matured in French oak barrels of various sizes – a deliberately flexible decision that leaves room for the vintage and the parcel to express themselves.

There are wines that exist and those that are virtually unavailable. Piano delle Colombe belongs to the second category – a "phantom wine" made from 750 bottles, a myth made of glass and time, a dream that only materialises for a select few. In the most sublime parcel of the prestigious Contrada San Lorenzo, on just 4,000 square metres of volcanic soil, Giuseppe Russo has created a wine that blurs the boundaries between reality and legend. The name tells a story that is as poetic as the wine itself: Girolamo, Giuseppe's father, claimed with a mischievous smile that the pigeons – "colombe" – always came to this small, flat area of the contrada to steal the very best grapes. "They have better taste than we do," he used to say as he watched the little thieves make their selection among the ancient Alberello vines. What began as a family anecdote became the name of a wine that is now one of the most sought-after treasures in the whole of Etna.

The pure, autochthonous Nerello Mascalese from over 100-year-old (ungrafted) vines in Contrada Rampante on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at an altitude of 950 metres starts with a sparkling ruby-garnet colour and impressively adds a captivating raspberry aroma, followed by fine spicy notes (ginger, allspice, clove). Compact, dense, fully fruity, tannic on the palate, yet always extremely relaxed, elegant and supple. Traces of salt and flint on the finish. Just over 2,000 bottles of this masterpiece are produced every year. SUPERIORE.DE

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

Five years of patience for a moment in a glass. When Donnafugata and Dolce&Gabbana decided to crown their Sicilian congeniality with a sparkling wine in 2019, they knew that a Metodo Classico of this calibre needed time. The grapes – exclusively Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Mount Etna – were harvested in the autumn, when nobody could have guessed how long the journey would take. 36 months on the lees, another two years of waiting. Release in spring 2025.

Contrada Sciaranuova Vecchie Vigne is the most concentrated, broodingvoice from the Sciaranuova vineyard - a Nerello Mascalese from vines over 80 years old, grown at an altitude of 730 metres on the northern flank of Mount Etna. The ungrafted vines stand in an amphitheatre of dark, sandy volcanic ash, interspersed with basalt rock and characterised by enormous day-night amplitude. The 2019 vintage was one of the most balanced of the decade: a rainy spring was followed by a moderately warm summer and a dry autumn, which allowed for a late, very differentiated harvest.

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.