wines

While the Blanc des Rosis brings together four grape varieties, the Friulano speaks only for itself. That is intentional. Because Friulano – the historic grape variety that Mario Schiopetto was the first to bottle pure and unblended in 1965 – needs no company. It is Friuli. The vineyards of Capriva del Friuli lie on Eocene clay and marl: soils that impart minerality and a cool, herbaceous depth to the grapes. Harvest by hand in the second and third decade of August, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, eight months on the lees – no wood, no effort that would distract the wine from itself.

Top Italian rosé made from selected Montepulciano grapes from 45-year-old vines: Spelt Cerasuolo is a rosé with origin and character – obtained from organically grown Montepulciano in medium-high vineyards near Spoltore. The 2024 vintage was characterised by balanced ripeness and cool nights, which gives the wine freshness and clarity. After a short maceration period, the wine is matured in stainless steel tanks.

Mozart knew what he was doing. In the second act of Don Giovanni, his hero calls for wine – and it is the Marzemino that he desires: "Eccellente Marzemino!" It was to be his last indulgence before his just punishment. The variety, which is related to Refosco and Teroldego, has lost little of its seductive power since then. Maculan cultivates it in Fara Vicentino, on a vineyard called Cornorotto – volcanic tuff hills, mineral-rich soil. The grapes are lightly dried for a week before being placed in steel tanks – a quiet trick that brings concentration and depth without heaviness.

Re Manfredi is a masterpiece made from the indigenous Aglianico grape variety. Its label is emblazoned with the coat of arms of the ruling house of Emperor Frederick the Hohenstaufen, who was at home here. Deep ruby red in colour, fragrant, intense and multi-layered bouquet, rich fruit, robust structure, fine tannins and clean, pleasant bitter tones in harmony, very dense, elegant, spicy and complex with a subtle woody note. A wonderful, characteristic red! SUPERIORE.DE

Where the first rays of sunlight wander over Gallura's granite hills and the ancient tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju has looked eastwards for thousands of years, the young vines for Capicheras Lianti grow. The name itself tells of this mystical connection – liànti means "Levant", the East, where light is born every day. Just as the Nuragic builders once orientated their sacred sites towards this heavenly gate, this wine also turns its face towards the rising sun. From the youngest vineyards of the estate, where five to ten-year-old Carignano and Syrah vines thrive on weathered granite soils, an authentic Sardinian red wine is produced in its most original form. The hand-picked grapes macerate for three weeks in stainless steel tanks before the wine then matures for around six months in steel and cement.

In 2010, Marco Cirese, grandson of Noelia Ricci, started a project within Tenuta Pandolfa: nine hectares of the best plots, a radical focus on Sangiovese, back to the origins. The label is adorned with a wasp – the insect that lives in the vineyard like no other. The vines are planted at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres, on ochre-coloured clay soils with limestone marl, in 2002. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days of maceration, then six months in stainless steel – without clarification, without filtration. Purism as a principle.

Here comes the Vermentino for demanding and everyday life at the same time. Is Argiolas is the melody of the Sardinian coast – a white protagonist, elegant and multi-layered. The grapes come from sandy, chalky hills around Selegas (single vineyard), where they develop mineral depth in the granite subsoil. After cool fermentation, the wine matures on the fine lees in stainless steel – a concept of clarity without compromise.

A wine that shows at first sip: Sardinia not only has sunshine, but also depth. Iselis is a tribute to the indigenous Monica grape variety from a carefully selected vineyard near Serdiana. The vines are rooted in calcareous clay soils, warm winds and Mediterranean sunshine. After controlled mash fermentation, the wine matures for around a year in barriques before being bottled, powerful and elegant at the same time.

The Latin Merus stands for pure or genuine. All Merus wines have this claim and are characterised by varietal character and natural elegance. The grapes come from vineyards in the lowlands and are pressed in steel and concrete barrels. The result is wines that are open, fresh and accessible at an early stage. Bright golden yellow in colour. Distinctive bouquet of ripe grapes and candied fruit, accompanied by fine notes of honey, oriental spices, sage and rose petals. A full-bodied and harmonious wine with a respectable finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Grigio has a difficult time. Too often softly rinsed, too often vinified for quantity – a name that promises more than it delivers. Things are different in Capriva del Friuli. Here the variety was once called "Ribolla di Capriva", here it is at home on Eocene marl and clay, here it is the last white vine to ripen – it is only harvested in the last decade of September, when the nights get cooler and the flavours settle. Emilio and Alessandro Rotolo vinify the Pinot Grigio with the same rigour as all the wines in the Pompiere line: soft pressing, fermentation in steel at low temperatures, short bottle ageing. No effort that goes beyond the fruit. The wine is allowed to show what the soil has to offer.

"We want this land to say: Barbera. We've always thought that, ever since the first vineyards that grandfather Giuseppe left to his father Giacomo, where grapes were grown for La Monella. Then the ones between Rocchetta and Belveglio (the vineyards of Bricco dell'Uccellone), which mother Anna brought as a dowry, and the vineyards of Montebruna, which we bought and merged - and which we still look at with great pride." Familie Bologna

The three sisters from Fittà: Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari have turned the winery founded by their parents Giovanni and Rosetta in 1982 into one of the most respected addresses in Soave Classico. Suavia is the Germanic origin of "Soave" – the name says it all. While their neighbours from the flatlands have long since bowed to industrial pressure, the sisters cultivate exclusively the autochthonous Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grape varieties on twelve hectares at an altitude of 300 metres. Their vineyards are located on the volcanic hills of Fittà, on copper-red, black and grey soils full of basalt and other volcanic rock. Here, where 50-year-old vines thrive on mineral-rich subsoil, wines of unmistakable expressiveness are produced.

Vino Nobile is Montepulciano's answer to Tuscany's big question: What can Sangiovese do if you give it time? At Gracciano, the answer has been the same since the 19th century – and it has not changed. The Tenuta della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family is one of the oldest addresses in the appellation, its vineyards on the Rovisci, Maramai and Toraia crus lie at 300 to 350 metres in south to south-easterly exposure, on clay soils that allow the Prugnolo Gentile to ripen slowly and fully, which is exactly what it needs. 90 per cent Prugnolo Gentile, ten per cent Merlot – a classic Gracciano assemblage. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel, then 18 months of ageing: 40 per cent in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, 60 per cent in large oak barrels from France and Slavonia.

In the vineyards of Eppan and Kaltern, between 350 and 500 metres above sea level, Pinot Noir finds the alpine conditions that allow it to mature into an elegant interpretation of the Burgundian grape variety. The grapes thrive on moraine debris with limestone and gravel in a temperate climate with cooling winds, which give the variety its characteristic freshness and aromatic clarity. The St. Michael-Eppan winery, one of the leading cooperatives in South Tyrol since 1907, cultivates its vineyards with respect for the grape and favours environmentally friendly cultivation with targeted yield regulation. After temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures for six months in large Slavonian oak barrels. This ageing method preserves the fruitiness and varietal elegance, while the wood adds subtle spice and structural depth without masking the fine varietal aromas.

Wonderfully "different" and complex Soave from vines over 20 years old. Sparkling light yellow colour with green reflections. A restrained, reductive bouquet of bitter almond, flint, white and yellow fruit jam, dried fruit and biscuits. The palate is dry, warm and soft, yet fresh, spicy and slightly astringent, with a full, balanced body. With increasing aeration, it reveals its great complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Pale straw yellow with a delicate greenish tinge. Clear and inviting on the nose: green apple, pineapple and citrus, underpinned by white flowers and a fine hint of fresh bread crust. Dry, straightforward and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, a delicate mellowness and cool, mineral tension. The finish is fresh and lingering, with an elegant, slightly salty flavour. A modern, no-frills Langhe Chardonnay that impresses with its clarity, drinking flow and fine depth. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Chiarlo's classic come from various vineyards in southern Asti, in particular from the Podere La Court and Montemareto vineyards in Castelnuovo Calcea, La Serra in Montaldo Scarampi and Costa delle Monache in Agliano. Le Orme is the prototype of a young, fresh red with a clean fruit flavour of plum and blackberry. On the palate, the wine is flavoured with high-toned red cherries and raspberries, framed by elegant and fine tannins with perfect acidity on the finish. A Barbera full of character that offers great drinking pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

Merlot from Friuli - this is not a copy of Bordeaux, but rather, like Refosco, an independent style between ripe fruit, freshness and firmness. With the 2023, Tunella has succeeded in creating an exceptionally charming wine full of character. The vines grow on the barren Ponca soils of the Colli Orientali, which give the wine structure and depth. Black cherry, ripe plum, fine spice and a hint of tobacco on the nose. Juicy, balanced and lively on the palate, with a good tannin structure and moderate alcohol. The warm vintage brings ripe fruit, but the ageing in stainless steel preserves the freshness and straightforwardness. A classic yet modern Merlot with authentic origins and plenty of charm and depth. SUPERIORE.DE

A Cabernet Sauvignon with a Friulian character: powerful, but never rustic. The vines are rooted in the calcareous flysch soils of the Colli Orientali, where they find ideal conditions under the influence of Alpine winds and Adriatic breezes. Dark berries, cassis, some paprika and a hint of graphite on the nose. Maturation in stainless steel tanks preserves the freshness and clarity typical of the variety. On the palate, the 2023 is juicy, structured and animating, with fine-grained tannins and good grip. The periods of summer heat were well buffered by night-time cooling, which is reflected in the balance of fruit, flavour and freshness. A Cabernet from the north-east full of character - powerful, honest and with a touch of noblesse. SUPERIORE.DE

Mario Schiopetto was born in 1930, he grew up in the family-owned Osteria ai Pompieri and had his first professional experiences as a fireman and later as a truck driver. In 1963, guided only by his taste and love of wine, he began to devote himself to wine production in his parents' farm and produced the first pure Tocai in 1965. The historic label at the time included the drawing of his fire engine, which he also used to deliver the wine to customers. With the 2019 vintage, the winery recalled these historical roots and resumed the cute drawing on part of its wine labels.