Italian red wine

Fuligni's superb 2019 Riserva shows a beautiful tertiary intensity with wild berries and plums, followed by balsamic herbs, liquorice, grilled herbs and spices. We are delighted by the sheer opulence and richness of this wine, which remains pleasantly medium-bodied throughout, yet produces plenty of elegance and sufficient power on the other side. This Riserva from a top vintage never feels too heavy or too flat, but impresses with its disciplined energy and vitality. With each successive glass, the wine becomes a perfectly balanced world of modernity and tradition that is unrivalled in its wine form. SUPERIORE.DE

Pianrosso: the red field. The name tells of iron-rich soils that give the Sangiovese that mineral depth that no cellar in the world can imitate. 11.7 hectares on the south-eastern edge of Montalcino, between 240 and 360 metres above sea level, where ancient marine material meets Galestro slate. Giuseppe Bianchini had the vineyard replanted in the 1980s, knowing that the heart of the winery lies dormant here. Pianrosso is only bottled in superior years, a strict selection of the best grapes, a whole year longer in Slavonian vats than the classic Brunello. 36 months in large wood, then further rest in the bottle. The result is not a wine for quick enjoyment, but a document of patience. In 2021, Montalcino produced one of those vintages that you never forget: bright September days, cool nights, perfect phenolic ripeness.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

With the Pinot Nero Riserva Vigna Das Langefeld, the Pfitscher family has undoubtedly created an elegant top wine that perfectly reflects the identity of the terroir.

One hectare. 13,000 vines. 1,000 bottles. You don't really need to say more – and yet that would be too little. The Cabernet Franc of Etichetta Rossa grows on a single vineyard in Blera, south-east facing, 380 metres above sea level, heavy clay soils with stone inclusions. The planting density – 13,000 vines per hectare – exceeds even the already extreme density of the other San Giovenale plots. Each plant fights for water, light and space. The yield is 12 quintals per hectare – half as much as the Habemus Bianca. What remains is concentrated to the limit of what is possible.

Two hands, one dream: when Elena Celli and Luca D'Attoma discovered the wild hills of Riparbella in 2000 – unploughed, stony, overgrown with maquis –they recognised the potential of this rugged terroir between 250 and 300 metres above sea level. Here, where the salty breeze of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the Mediterranean wilderness, one of Italy's most extraordinary Cabernet Francs has been produced for over two decades. Luca D'Attoma, legendary Oenologist and creator of iconic wines such as Le Macchioles Messorio, focuses on radical purity: biodynamic cultivation according to Demeter guidelines, spontaneous fermentation in conical oak barrels, 20 months maturation in barriques with 80 per cent new wood.

Above the vineyard is a brown road sign: Passo del Lume Spento m. 621 s.l.m. The highest point of the entire Brunello appellation. The name is self-explanatory: The wind on this sandstone plateau was so strong that it extinguished the lanterns of the carriages that once crossed this pass. The light always went out. The place remained. No Brunello was allowed to grow here until 2016. The DOCG regulations set an upper limit at 600 metres – and Passo del Lume Spento is at 621 metres. When the rules were changed, Riccardo Campinoti was one of the first to take the plunge. The vines were planted in 2010 and 2012 – young, on a sandstone plateau with south-west exposure, which on clear days offers views as far as the Tyrrhenian Sea. Gaja and Marchesi Antinori have also bought in this zone since then. You don't have to be a clairvoyant to understand why.

The wine comes from a single, gently sloping vineyard above Rocchetta Tanaro, called Bricco dell'Uccellone, named after an elderly local woman who always kept a sharp eye on the vineyards, dressed in black. Here, old vines grow on barren, chalky soils that produce low yields but highly concentrated harvest. With tireless dedication, the Bologna family fulfils the legacy of Giacomo Bologna, who is rightly described as the father of modern Barbera d'Asti. 2021 began with a cool spring, followed by a warm, stable summer that ensured slow, even ripening. The grapes were hand-picked in perfect condition, followed by a long maceration and 12 months of ageing in French barriques.

Treat yourself to a large glass, or even better: decant the wild and racy Il Guercio, then a dark berry mix with black cherries and a hint of dark chocolate will be in the air. Equally juicy Sangiovese fruit on the palate, full-bodied with fine silky tannins, elegant and finely structured, with animating acidity, very precise and animating in the long finish. Potential for many years in the cellar. Not at all loud, but a highly impressive wine full of elegance and the winery's masterpiece. SUPERIORE.DE

Duemani has only 7,000 Syrah vines – the smallest parcel on the estate, but perhaps the most precious. Suisassi, this enigmatic name, reminiscent of the sound of the nearby surf, stands for Elena's very personal vision: to create a Syrah that imitates neither the Rhône nor South Australia, but captures the Tuscan coast in all its wild beauty. Luca D'Attoma, who helped create Le Macchioles legendary Scrio as a consultant, applies the same philosophy here: 30 per cent of the grapes are fermented as whole bunches to increase the aromatic complexity, spontaneous yeast fermentation in conical oak vats and small 1,Liters tanks preserves the vibrancy of the fruit before the wine is left to rest for 20 months in French barriques.

If Syrah is the mouth of Habemus, then Grenache is its nose. This is how Emanuele Pangrazi himself described it one afternoon in the Bottaia of Blera, when he drew directly from the barrel with a pipette and placed two glasses next to each other: one almost black, the other bright ruby red, almost transparent. Two worlds, one terroir. The Etichetta Blu is pure Grenache – and it is the most sensitive, aromatically rich and surprising wine in the San Giovenale portfolio. The same vineyards in Blera, the same clay soils with stone inclusions, the same altitude of 300 to 400 metres, the same oceanic breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The same extreme planting density, the same organically certified work without chemicals or synthesis. And yet: a completely different result.

The grapes for Vietti's Riserva come from the best Barolo vineyards, primarily Scarrone and Bric del Fiasc. The production is just 5,000 bottles. Opens with aromas of dried cherries, which combine with sweet spices, while a hint of truffle, dried violets and bay leaf emerge. On the palate, there is a beguiling elegance and depth with perfectly developed fruit flavours and melting tannins. The great thing is that you can drink this wine the same day you buy it. But you don't have to, because the potential is great! SUPERIORE.DE

Dreams sometimes have a very precise address. The Pfitscher family's is: Glen, above Montan, 500 metres above sea level, west-facing, clay and limestone underfoot. In 1984, when Klaus was – then 24 years old – planted this west-facing slope with Burgundian Pinot Noir clones, he knew what he was doing. Not as a calculation, but out of conviction: Something great would be created here one day. Three decades later, the time was ripe. In 2013, the family decided to vinify the parcel separately and give it a name – one that sounds like a promise: "Das Langefeld".

"Pianrosso" – the red plain. When Giuseppe Bianchini began planting this vineyard in 1985, he knew that the heart of his heritage would beat here, on the iron-rich Galestro soils above the Orcia Valley. Eleven hectares between 240 and 360 metres, supported by the slate and marl subsoil that was once seabed before the nearby Monte Amiata left behind its volcanic minerality. Today, his son Paolo and his son Alex continue this legacy – three generations of Bianchini, who face Montalcino's hottest zone with organic cultivation and prudent restraint. The 2020 vintage demanded everything: July heat, which led to 15.5 per cent alcohol, but underneath lies the elegance for which Castelnuovo dell'Abate is famous.

Directly in front of the winery, at an altitude of 600 metres, with a view to the south-west and the sea on the horizon, lies a vineyard that was planted in 1968. It is called Vigna Vecchia – the old vineyard. That's all it needs to introduce itself. 56-year-old vines on quartz-rich soil, the last plot on the estate to be harvested – some years not until mid-October. The old vine is slow, it yields little and concentrates a lot. What it produces is not a broad portrait of the terroir, but a monologue – precise and of a density that can only be explained by age. Riccardo Campinoti vinifies the Vigna Vecchia like all his Brunello: concrete vats, natural yeasts, long maceration, then 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. No Riserva label – although the wine would justify it. Campinoti deliberately refrains from doing so. As in Burgundy, it is the location and terroir that count, not the category.

A Barolo from a great vintage: the 2021 wine year brought a long growing season with clear day-night amplitudes and precise harvest: fully ripe phenolics, bright acidity, impeccable health. The grapes come from family-owned plots in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte and Mosconi. Each vineyard is fermented separately in stainless steel; prolonged maceration with gentle extraction, followed by unhurried malolactic fermentation. For the ageing process, the estate primarily uses large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), discreetly supplemented by French oak.

The Serpara is elegant, intense and long-lasting every year. Its grapes come from a single vineyard and the wine matures in a combination of new and used French Allier oak barrels. In the glass, it exudes aromas of blackberries, tobacco, sage, thyme and a hint of smoked meat. It has a soft, almost creamy texture and juicy acids that keep the balance, while ripe black fruits and minerals move effortlessly across the palate. The bold tannins make their presence felt on the final, but are more of an accent that frames the experience well, while hints of dark chocolate and balsamic spices slowly fade away. SUPERIORE.DE

The Cotarella family's Le Macioche Brunello 2020 shows balance and character, opening with bright cherry fruit, menthol, balsamic herbs, minerals and soft earthy tones. On the palate, the wine unfolds with lightness, silky and refined, with a pure presentation of ripe red berries accompanied by violet-coloured flowers and a hint of leather. Although grippy and structured, it remains energetic and fresh on the final, leaving a hint of violets and lavender. SUPERIORE.DE

Guado al Tasso is not only the name of the winery, but also the historical term for a ford in the torrent on the Marchesi Antinori estate. In the Middle Ages, this was the name given to the place where one encountered the "tasso" (badger) while travelling through the water on horse and cart. This poetic place name came to symbolise a wine that combines depth and movement: A Bolgheri Superiore with provenance, history and attitude. Despite the summer heat, the 2022 vintage produced an astonishingly balanced structure. Selective harvest in the best parcels between the hills and the Tyrrhenian Sea, fermentation in stainless steel, followed by 18 months of ageing in new French barriques, followed by at least 6 months of bottle ageing.

Barolo Ravera comes from a single vineyard with almost 50-year-old vines. In the glass, it impresses with a strong, aromatic opening aroma. Bright, precise and finely chiselled, the Ravera captures all the goodness the vintage has to offer. Cherry, sweet mint, candy and expressive floral notes get an extra kick of inner sweetness from the Ravera's natural energy. There is so much to look forward to as the wine develops over the next few years! SUPERIORE.DE

Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli is one of those wines where you know you are in for an experience as soon as you smell the glass. Dark berries and cherries are followed by roasted nuts, gravel and slate. It is remarkably fresh and light on the palate, but also rich and exotic, with a silky texture that is layered with tart wild berries, savoury herbs and a hint of balsamic spice over a medium-bodied palate. Inner roses, violets, lavender and tart citrus - this wine is remarkably layered and has an unseen depth. The balance between lively acidity and increasing tannin keeps the experience alive. With only 3,800 bottles produced each year, Riccardo Campinoti creates a cru here that not only represents the individuality of Le Ragnaie wines perfectly, but is also hard to beat in terms of elegance and finesse. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is only produced in the best years and in an extremely limited quantity - just 1,200 bottles of the 2019 vintage will be released onto the market. The exciting bouquet combines rich dark fruits with savoury spices, sage and violets to create a captivating spectacle. Soft and enveloping on the palate, initially quite feminine, with a mix of vibrant acids and minerals giving way to wild berries and pretty inner flowers. This cool, balanced and savoury wine already shows enormous purity and finesse when young, but with its grippy tannins it definitely needs more years to develop fully. With such a limited production, it is a shame that more people will not be able to enjoy this exceptionally beautiful Brunello. SUPERIORE.DE