Organic

When the joy of experimentation meets biodynamic consistency, wines like this Bronner from Alois Lageder's Kometen series are born. Only 259 bottles were produced – from a single barrique. The Bronner grape variety, a fungus-resistant cross between Märzling and Saint Laurent, is considered a first-generation PIWI variety. While such grape varieties are increasingly being promoted in cultivation, they are still met with reluctance in sales. This wine is impressive proof of their potential.

"Curiosity about the future" – is the motto of this extraordinary comet, which is not just a wine, but a climate change experiment. For many years, Alois Lageder has been working on the question of which grape varieties are suitable for future higher average temperatures and more extreme weather conditions in South Tyrol. The answer: plant grape varieties from southern wine-growing regions of Europe and observe how they behave in cooler environments. The hypothesis was that these varieties would develop higher acidity and moderate sugar levels in South Tyrol. Today, VIO XIII is one of the most successful experiments in this series.

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, one of the highest appellations in Chianti Classico, the Sangiovese grapes for this exceptional Riserva grow at 470 to 655 metres. The historic terraces of local Macigno del Chianti – the characteristic sandstone that stores the sun's heat during the day and releases it again at night – create a unique microclimate for this organically certified wine. Lareale combines grapes from two of Lamole's best vineyards: "Il Prato" and "Le Masse". 95 per cent Sangiovese, supplemented by five per cent Canaiolo Nero, produce a Chianti Classico of remarkable elegance and oysteriness after optical berry selection and two weeks of maceration. Maturation in oak barrels for over two years gives the wine additional complexity and structure.

Opera Semplice – a "simple work". But what the three sisters have created here is anything but simple: it is the logical consequence of their Trebbiano obsession, a sparkling wine so radical and uncompromising that it was not actually intended for sale to begin with. An experimental solitaire, produced only in the very best vintages with the finest grapes from their Massifitti vineyard – another milestone in their mission to rehabilitate the almost forgotten grape variety.

This wine bears the small print name Viola delle Viole, although its fruit comes from the Bricco delle Viole and Bricco Bertone vineyards, two sites with different soil types, one of which provides structure and the other aromatic purity. Opens with a dark, almost impenetrable appearance. Powerful aromas of blackberry jam and preserved cherries unfold on the nose. You can feel its warmth and richness and there is no way around it. It is a super-sized Barbera that goes one better in terms of extraction and intensity. The finish is almost sweet, followed by good acidity. It shows great aromatic perfection, length and a very accentuated style. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine born from a love story between two worlds: When Thomas Bär acquired the La Valletta estate in Panzano in 2011, he not only completed his family's legacy, but also created the basis for a unique cuvée that combines two exceptional terroirs in perfect harmony. Valletta is the liquid manifesto of this visionary decision: half Sangiovese from the galestro-rich terraces of Castellina and half Merlot from the stone-rich soils of Conca d'Oro. On the one hand, the centuries-old, UNESCO-protected dry stone walls of Gagliole, where the vines find an ecological balance between olive trees and roses. On the other, the sun-drenched heights of La Valletta at the upper edge of the Golden Valley, where the shell-shaped amphitheatre develops its famous microclimate.

The pioneer of Riesling on Italian soil is Aldo Vajra. Already fascinated by the variety as a student, he planted the first vines of the White Riesling variety in the Langa. Very light yellow-green in colour when young, developing into a strong straw yellow. The flavours of the noble Pètracine also take a varied course. Starting with peach and apricot, delicate floral and citrus notes follow in the middle, while minerality takes centre stage as the wine matures. Harmonious and precisely structured on the palate, almost austere, fascinatingly complex and long. Great ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Contrada 2020 is a monumental Nero d'Avola that tells the story of old vines. Grown in Bastonaca, near Vittoria, these vines are rooted in mineralised red clay soils infused with limestone and silicate – this is the fundamental terroir that COS works out biodynamically with clear standards, as 100% Nero d'Avola from over 50-year-old Alberello vines is cultivated exclusively organically. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in small oak barrels – an ageing process that adds depth and spicy finesse without drowning in wood.

Fiano Pietraincatenata is the winery's flagship white wine and takes the grape variety to a whole new level. The bouquet is a fascinating blend of grapefruit, lime zest and peach with a hint of sweet smoke as it warms up in the glass. Silky yet savoury to the core on the palate. A cornucopia of citrus fruits and minerals completes the green apple fruit. Tense and invigorating as it progresses and finishes, but still well suited to further and exciting bottle ageing. SUPERIORE.DE

The pure varietal selection from Fontodi. While the classic house olive oil convinces as a cuvée, the Correggiolo shows the old Tuscan variety in its purest form. Hand-picked, pressed on the day of harvest, biodynamic cultivation: the philosophy remains the same, but the result is more focussed. Correggiolo is considered one of the most characterful olive varieties in Tuscany: strong, flavourful, with rough edges.

The organically grown Etna Rosso Reseca is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from a 1.5 hectare vineyard located at 800 metres above sea level on the blackened cone of the volcano. The wine offers both power and grace, the two contrasting qualities that characterise the great wines of Etna.

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

The Viognier and Chardonnay vines grow on Caiarossa's most calcareous terroir. The grapes are fermented separately in oak barrels, matured on the lees and blended at the end, with little or no racking in order to produce the wine with as little oxygen contact as possible. The result is a precise and clean white wine that, with its beautiful volume, depth and smoothness with fragrant flavours of flowers and almonds, goes well with a delicate and fragrant pesto. SUPERIORE.DE

Cultus is Latin for "cultivation, care and veneration". The name says it all: this wine honours tradition by reinterpreting it. Where the house's classic Riserva relies on tried and tested structures, Cultus dares to take a longer breath. Forty days of maceration instead of the usual three weeks, Sangiovese supplemented by the historical companions Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo – all from massalselection of the estate's oldest vines. The vineyards are located at an altitude of 250 to 330 metres, on clayey loam over limestone, organically farmed since 1995 and certified since 2003. The 2019 vintage brought ideal conditions: early budding in the warm spring, balancing rainfall into the summer, then perfect ripeness.

As always, the Cerviolo is excellent: concentrated, with the aroma of red cherry, sweet tobacco, walnut and wild mushroom. Silky and multi-layered on the palate, with balsamic and spicy notes, dense and soft, with absolutely harmonious tannins. A marvellous wine! SUPERIORE.DE

As usual, the grapes come from a selection of old vines from the Mosconi, Gabutti and Ravera parcels, whose chalky and clayey soils lend the wines fine minerality and structure. The wines are matured separately by vineyard for around 12 months in used barriques before the cuvée is blended. Dense ruby red colour with a purple core – a glance into the glass already reveals the depth of this vintage. The bouquet reveals a multi-layered aroma of ripe cherry, plum and dark berries, accompanied by hints of violet, liquorice and a touch of dried herbs. Juicy and focussed on the palate, with lively acidity, ripe fruit and supple tannins. The 2023 appears a touch fresher and more youthful than its predecessor, but retains the balance of regional roots and the finely nuanced style for which Chiara Boschis is known. SUPERIORE.DE

Chiaro di Bolle epitomises Il Borro's bold answer to the question of what Sangiovese is capable of as a sparkling wine – a Tuscan Metodo Classico that redefines the traditional boundaries of the grape variety. As a Blanc de Noir made from 100% Sangiovese, this exceptional sparkling wine fits perfectly into the winery's many years of experimentation with the queen of Tuscan grape varieties and impressively demonstrates the versatility of this terroir-influenced Sangiovese. Vinified according to the classic metodo tradizionale, Chiaro di Bolle undergoes traditional bottle fermentation, which gives Sangiovese a completely new dimension. The organically farmed grapes from Valdarno di Sopra bring their characteristic minerality and freshness, while the careful cellar work transforms the natural elegance of the grape variety into a sparkling lightness.

A wine like a manifesto: Della Bastonaca is the quintessence of the COS philosophy, grown on the historic estate in Bastonaca near Vittoria – where up to 75-year-old Alberello vines of Nero d'Avola and Frappato stand on calcareous red clay, criss-crossed by quartz veins and the constant presence of Mediterranean air. Biodynamics is not a statement here, but a lived practice – for decades, each vintage has been vinified in harmony with nature at the right rhythm. The 2020 vintage brought the best conditions: A spring with sufficient moisture, a warm but not overheated summer and cool nights during the ripening period created the ideal balance of vigour, freshness and aromatic precision. Selective hand-picking, spontaneous fermentation on the skins and careful ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months – these are conscious decisions that together result in a wine of quiet greatness.

The elegant blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot surprises with its aroma full of purity and intensely aromatic fruit flavour. Elegance and finesse trump muscle in Turpino, a wine that is always light on its feet. Fermentation in wooden barrels and ageing in barriques lend the spicy, balsamic notes of the grape blend a softness, a fine frame and a beguilingly long finish on the palate. With its tangy acidity balancing the ripe fruit, Turpino manages to be generous and restrained at the same time, making it a great accompaniment to Mediterranean meat dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

Kyè – piedmontese for "chi è?", who is that? The question is part of the programme. Freisa was once one of the most important grape varieties in Piedmont, then fell into oblivion, displaced by Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto. It is no coincidence that Aldo Vajra, of all people, took it seriously again in 1980: in 2004, genetic research proved what the old winegrowers had long suspected – freisa is the closest relative of Nebbiolo, probably even a parent. The Vajras have been bottling a dry Freisa since 1989 and have thus initiated a renaissance that is setting a precedent today. The grapes for the Kyè come from Aldo's own selezione massal from 1980, planted in San Ponzio at the lower edge of the legendary Bricco delle Viole – the vineyard closest to the winery. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then matured for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels.

The Ghezzi family has been cultivating the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino since 1957 – 530 hectares in total, 50 of which are planted with Sangiovese Grosso alone, on clay-limestone soils with silt and fossil inclusions. A Brunello that combines the power of the south with the elegance of careful clonal selection comes from this sunny, warm location on the Ombrone. 20 to 30 days of maceration on the skins, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of bottle ageing. The 2021 vintage is considered a classic great Annata: late frost in April noticeably reduced the yields, a warm but never overheated summer and two saving August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

The name tells a story: Barco Reale means "royal enclosure" and refers to the historic Medici hunting reserve, which was established in 1626 – a ring of walls over 50 kilometres long surrounded the area where Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo thrive today. Barco Reale Rosso is the younger, more accessible version of Carmignano DOCG, was awarded its own DOC status in 1994 and epitomises the elegance of this small but important Tuscan appellation. Tenuta di Capezzana has been run by the Contini Bonacossi family for five generations and represents over seventy per cent of the entire Carmignano production. The first documented mention of Capezzana dates back to 804, and as early as the 16th century, Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The winery has been certified organic since 2009.