Decanter

Monforte d'Alba lies in the southern Barolo region, where the soils become heavier, richer in clay and higher in iron content. Those who grow Nebbiolo here produce a different wine to that made to the north and east – one that is more structured, darker and possesses a density that takes time to develop. In 2009, Chiara Boschis purchased a plot in the MGA Mosconi – the most recent addition to the estate's portfolio, and the one with the most intense character. 1.9 hectares at an altitude of 370 to 400 metres, south-facing. The soils are of Helvetic origin – calcareous clay-marl layers in a characteristic grey to slightly warm pink hue, depending on where calcium carbonate and iron shift the composition. In some places, these layers take on a reddish hue, tinged with iron and interspersed with pebbles. It is a soil that lends substance to the Nebbiolo, demands long ageing and produces a kind of vinous power that does not arise in this way in lighter soils. Chiara Boschis was the first Oenologist to obtain organic certification in Barolo. Today she works alongside her brother Giorgio – and the Mosconi bears the hallmark of both.

The grapes for Istine's cult Riserva come exclusively from the estate's own vineyards Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole). Only 4,000 bottles of this breathtaking wine, which matures for 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, are bottled each year.

The Magistra Brunello was vinified for the second time in 2019. Produced in a small edition of just over 1,000 bottles, it is the estate's new flagship wine. It is an extremely rigorous selection of the best grapes from the small Magistra vineyard, which is located south of Montalcino at around 400 metres above sea level. The vines are surrounded by a holm oak forest, which benefits from exposure with night-time ventilation from the Orcia Valley. This favours the development of the aromas, which are noticeable in the intense Sangiovese bouquet of crushed sour cherries, spiced blood oranges, minty herbs and a hint of sweet smoke. Silky yet lively on the palate, driven by a lively acidity that effortlessly carries the mineral fruit of the red berries across the palate together with the polished tannins. A gem of a wine! SUPERIORE.DE

Davide Rosso had long since successfully written the Serralunga chapter when he rode up Etna for the first time in 2014. He was not looking for a second mainstay. He was looking for a terroir that would challenge him – as the limestone marl of Serralunga had once challenged him. He found it on the northern slope of the volcano, in the Solicchiata fraction, and bought a 14-hectare estate in Contrada Montedolce in 2016. An old palmento, lava soil, 750 metres above sea level. But he didn't stop there. In 2023, he acquired two more hectares in Contrada Pietra Marina – one of the best white vineyards in the entire Etna region, historically famous for the quality of its Carricante, directly influenced by the nearby Alcantara River. The soils here are a unique mixture: volcanic sand and ash, enriched by fluvial silt and sandstone, shaped by thousands of years of tectonic and hydraulic forces. No other piece of land on Etna offers this specific dual character – volcanic energy and mineral river coolness in one vineyard.

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée has emerged that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. The 2021 vintage is the culmination of an extraordinary era: 48% Merlot is combined with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc to create a Bordeaux-inspired masterpiece that nevertheless breathes an unmistakable Tuscan soul. Sourced from the Tenuta's best plots, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty tang of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Traditionally vinified, its intense ruby red colour, the fruity aroma with spicy and balsamic notes and its gentle start on the palate, which builds furiously, are impressive. The high-class tannin structure rests between the soft components, so that this Brunello from the dream year 2019 simultaneously demonstrates elegance and strength without appearing too modern. SUPERIORE.DE

Grattamacco was the second winery in Bolgheri in 1982 and is still a firm favourite for great, terroir-driven wines with an independent character. The Rosso Superiore comes from high, coastal hillside vineyards with an excellent microclimate and matures for almost two years in French barriques after spontaneous fermentation. The cuvée deliberately does not follow the classic Bordeaux pattern: in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Sangiovese also characterises the wine as an indigenous soul – a sign of identity, not convention.

Gigliola Giannetti was born on the Argiano wine estate, the daughter of an employee in the wine cellar. She grew up among barrels and vines, the smell of fermenting must was the scent of her childhood. At 19, she joined Franco Biondi Santi, and later Giulio Gambelli encouraged her to make wine herself. In 1993, the time had come: first parcel, first child – daughter Viola. Three years later came two more hectares and daughter Sofia. Today, three women stand together in the cellar and three generations of Montalcino in one line. Le Potazzine is one of the highest vineyards in the appellation: 450 to 530 metres, where the harvest begins up to three weeks later than in the valley. What used to be considered a disadvantage is now worth its weight in gold – the grapes ripen slowly, retain their acidity and develop finesse instead of mere vigour. Vinification is uncompromisingly traditional: spontaneous fermentation, 30 to 45 days of maceration, no temperature control. The wine then rests for 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – six months longer than is even required for a Riserva. So every Brunello from Le Potazzine is actually a Riserva. Why don't they call it that? Modesty, or perhaps quiet pride.

Le Lucére is not a wine for coincidences. The plot – almost 2.5 hectares, east-facing, Galestro and slate, vines that have been rooted in this soil for more than a quarter of a century – only becomes a single-vineyard bottling under certain conditions. 2018 was such a year, although the world of Brunello experts initially reacted cautiously. Wrongly so. The eastern exposure of San Filippo is a quiet privilege for cooler years: no blazing afternoon sunshine that burns the fruit and hardens the tannins. Instead – morning light, slow ripening, precision. The vines did not suffer. They concentrated. Caciorgna vinified in steel, fermented in concrete, put the wine first in barrique and tonneau, then in large 20 to 30 hectolitre barrels. More than three years of ageing, one year in the bottle. The wine needed the time.

Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin DOCG 2019 comes from one of Monforte's most prestigious parcels with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of around 400 metres. The old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in calcareous marl with veins of clay and sand, which gives the wine intensity and finesse. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic of the last decade: long, balanced vegetation, mild summer heat and cool September nights produced grapes of rare aromatic precision. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were carefully vinified and matured in French oak for around 30 months.

Almost a decade lies between the harvest of this wine and its release. This is no exception for a Taurasi Riserva, but rather the rule: 24 months in barriques, at least a further 30 months in the bottle before release, and then several more years in the cellar until the wine is truly ready. The 2017 vintage has had this time. It comes from the Piano di Montevergine, the most iconic vineyard of the Feudi di San Gregorio estate – an area where vines have always grown amongst hazelnut and olive trees, as has characterised Irpinia’s agriculture for generations. Taurasi, a DOCG since 1993, is regarded as Campania's most serious red wine appellation, grown on volcanic soils in the shadow of the Montevergine massif. One hundred% Aglianico, a grape variety that requires precisely this long ageing period to integrate its tannic structure.

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced by the various terroirs of the estate: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude sites each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but ripe Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each parcel to create a flowing, elegant expression. The 2021 vintage is characterised by freshness and balance: Long vegetation phase at ideal temperatures, accompanied by cool nights that preserve intense fruit with lively acidity. The grapes were carefully harvested by hand, each parcel was vinified separately and only combined into a cuvée in the spring before bottling. The wine is matured for around 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a maturation that allows depth and harmony.

2019 shone in Montalcino. No critic who tasted it spent long searching for words. No overripeness, no heat scars, no compromises. And for an east-facing vineyard like Le Lucére – fully exposed to the first light of the morning – this meant that the Sangiovese Grosso was harvested with a ripeness that has rarely been so precisely predictable. Harvested early, fresh and concentrated at the same time. Caciorgna allowed the wine to pass through all of its stages: 13 to 14 months in barrique and tonneau, then almost 28 months in large containers – an ageing process that demands and receives depth. The result is a Le Lucére of princely stature.

2020 posed a simple question for Montalcino's winegrowers: who has the better terroir? In a hot, dry year – august temperatures close to 40 degrees – it was not just the manual labour in the vineyard that decided, but the geology. Le Lucére responded with Galestro and slate: soils that hold water deeper, moderate temperatures and preserve freshness when patience and acidity have long since given way elsewhere. Organic farming since 2013 has paid off many times over in years like these. Living soils, deep-rooted vines, no drought stress that forces chemical interventions. Paolo Caciorgna didn't have to save anything. He just had to listen.

Dark bouquet of cherry and plum sauces mixed with cloves and grapefruit peel. This is pure elegance, rich and supple, even polished in feel, while masses of mineral-tinged red berries flow over a core of vibrant acidity. The tannins arrive late and intermingle with a concentrated layer of primary fruit, leaving a classically structured impression. It is already clear that this wine will make its fans very happy in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

Vecchie Vigne by Siro Pacenti is still one of the most modern wines to emerge from this sun-drenched appellation in southern Tuscany. The grapes come from old vines that are between 38 and 53 years old. You can immediately taste the great 2019 vintage and the richness and suppleness of its dark fruit and lush blackberry flavours. Vecchie Vigne offers that certain hint of exotic spices, savoury tobacco and even notes of talcum powder or buttered popcorn, which come from the oak - it is aged for 24 months in French barriques - which does it a world of good and makes it unmistakable. All the attributes of this exceptional wine are clearly pronounced and unmistakably convincing, all of which contribute to a creamy and infinitely long-lasting mouthfeel and make this wine one of the best of the vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

When you hear the story of the effort that went into the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine people of Fèlsina are absolutely crazy. It took them two years to remove the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to practically abandon this noble location. But it is thanks to the ambitious Giovanni Poggiali that this spectacular vineyard (Vigneto Colonia) has become what it is today. It has reddish-brown soils, is rich in magnesium and iron and is therefore very different from all other Fèlsina vineyards.

At the end of the 1980s, Luca Sanjust planted the first Merlot clones in the clay-rich soils of Feriale, unaware that he would create a legend. The name Galatrona – once the dominion of the Tuscan dynasty, whose medieval watchtower towers over the ten-hectare vineyard – was to become synonymous with Italian Merlot perfection. "Le Pin of Tuscany", as Wine Spectator calls it, but at a fraction of the price of this mythical Pomerol. The 50,000 vines on southeast-facing terraces combine Bordeaux genetics with Tuscan soul. Clay stores the moisture that Merlot needs in the hot summers, while slate, marl and sandstone provide the mineral complexity.

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

When you hear the story of the effort that went into the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine people of Fèlsina are absolutely crazy. It took them two years to remove the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to practically abandon this noble location. But it is thanks to the ambitious Giovanni Poggiali that this spectacular vineyard (Vigneto Colonia) has become what it is today. It has reddish-brown soils, is rich in magnesium and iron and is therefore very different from all other Fèlsina vineyards.

While the world stood still in 2020, a quiet revolution took place in the vineyards of Montalcino. On the cool north-eastern slopes where Vincenzo Abbruzzese has been cultivating his Sangiovese vines for decades, nature wrote a chapter full of paradoxes: hot summer days with temperatures of up to 40 degrees, followed by night-time cooling, which gave the grapes the crystalline freshness that makes 2020 one of the most fascinating Brunello vintages in recent history. The vintage got off to a promising start with a mild winter that replenished the water reserves – a blessing in times of climate change. The spring was dry but even, until a rainy June with 154 millimetres allowed the foliage to grow lushly. Then came the summer: 64 days without a drop of rain, a drought that Vincenzo had never experienced before in his career. But where other winegrowers despaired, the master of Valdicava proved his expertise: meticulous foliage management protected the grapes from sunburn, while the deep roots of his old vines utilised the stored water from the rainy spring. The end of August brought redemption: cooler nights and scattered rain showers gave the vines new vigour. Vincenzo waited – a decision that sets his Brunello 2020 apart from many others. While other producers harvested before the September rains, he took advantage of the cooler temperatures for a final ripening that gave his wine the balance that makes 2020 a "drink-while-you-wait" vintage.

From deep moraine soil with a high salt and limestone content, Vigna Au first opens with flint and walnut and then beguiles with a complex bouquet of yellow, exotic fruits. Intense, juicy, with just the right amount of acidity, it has a maturation potential of at least 15 years. Just 2,000 bottles of this exceptional Chardonnay are bottled each year. SUPERIORE.DE