wines

In the hills south of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the soils are characterised by galestro and clay and the view sweeps over the Orcia Valley, a Rosso is created that can hardly be called a "second wine". Poggio di Sotto elevates the genre of Rosso di Montalcino to an art form and the 2022 vintage emphasises this with rare clarity. The year was warm, but not impetuous: after a dry winter, the summer brought high temperatures, but also large temperature differences between day and night. The autumn, dry and mild, allowed for a late, staggered harvest: An advantage for a winery that harvests Sangiovese as selectively as if it were a Grand Cru. The wine is fermented spontaneously in open wooden vats and matured in large Slavonian oak barrels – for almost three years, although the law requires far less. What would be a Brunello in other cellars is deliberately bottled as a Rosso here. And that is by no means an understatement, but a stylistic decision.

Sigmund Freud defined the "id" as that part of the psyche that only obeys a single principle: lust. Unbridled, unregulated, beyond space and time. When Gianfranco Fino gave his wine this name, it was not marketing – it was a manifesto. In 2004, the former olive consultant bought his first vineyard: just 1.3 hectares near Manduria, planted with Primitivo vines over fifty years old in traditional Alberello cultivation. What began as an experiment became a revolution. Six years later, Fino stood on the stage of the Gambero Rosso and received the "Winemaker of the Year" award – the first ever winemaker from central or southern Italy. In a row with northern Italian legends such as Josko Gravner and Romano Dal Forno.

The 2021 vintage of Donnafugata's top wine continues the dialogue between "art and wine" at Donnafugata in the best possible way: The Special Edition Mille e una Notte 2021 is dedicated to the great timeless story told in the brand new Netflix series "The Leopard". It is based on the literary masterpiece by Tomasi di Lampedusa, in which the protagonist's possessions are called "Donnafugata". No better wine could therefore be chosen to honour this epic tale set in the heart of western Sicily, precisely where the Donnafugata vineyards are located and where Mille e una Notte was born. The bottle has been enhanced with a precious label featuring baroque decorations that reflect the style and elegance shown in the series.

Since the first bottling in 2004, this wine has embodied the purest and most direct interpretation of Bolgheri à la Le Macchiole - a Rosso of grace and intensity, easy to drink without compromising on structure and complexity. The historic winery, founded in 1983 by Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli as pioneers of the region, has distilled its understanding of terroir with this Bordeaux blend of 40% Merlot, 20% each of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The challenging 2023 vintage with its changeable summer demanded precise decisions during the harvest – a test that Le Macchiole's experienced team under Cinzia Merli passed with flying colours. 15 days of maceration in steel, followed by 10 months of ageing, 70% in used barriques and 30% in concrete, give the wine its characteristic balance.

In the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of the Antinori brothers' ambitious project. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boar burrow in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, supplemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is an intense purple-red colour with violet reflections.

No other point in the Barbaresco geography is as geologically charged as Rabajà. Where the two ridges of the village meet – one sloping westwards towards the Tanaro, with loose, calcareous soil; the other facing north, with compact, calcareous subsoil –lies the vineyard. The secret of its complexity lies in the intersection of the soils: Rabajà combines what is otherwise separate. The south-westerly exposure provides warmth; the limestone gives tension. The result is a wine that does not play off elegance and power, but rather blends them together. The Produttori del Barbaresco first bottled Rabajà in 1970 – the entire production was purchased by Ristorante Guido in Costigliole d'Asti, a silent sign that this wine would become more than just an insider tip right from the start. Vinification: 28 days on the skins, thirty months or more in wooden barrels, one year in the bottle.

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

From the oldest Merlot parcel in the Le Sondraie vineyards comes Bell'Aja's flagship wine – a wine that impressively demonstrates the ambition of the San Felice project in Bolgheri. Since 2016, this Tenuta has completed the Tuscan wine interpretation of the historic group: from the hills of Chianti Classico to the prestigious vineyards of Montalcino to this radiant jewel on the Etruscan Coast. Bell'Aja Superiore embodies the pure essence of a unique terroir: 95% Merlot from the Tenuta's most venerable vines is combined with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to create a wine of impressive power and opulence. The sandy-loamy soils of the Le Sondraie zone, just five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, give this Bordeaux-inspired blend the maritime minerality that makes Bolgheri one of the most fascinating terroirs in the wine world.

Titolo Superiore is a selection that is refined for 12 months in tonneaux, followed by 12 months in used barrels and finally 12 months in the bottle. It has a dark, musky style and reveals an earthy bouquet intermingled with grilled herbs and blackcurrants. It flows across the palate like pure silk, gaining further tension as the mineral fruits of the forest slowly come to the fore. Firm and well-proportioned tannins glide into the finish, which is structured, long and almost salty. Citrus fruits and residual acids provide a refined freshness. Wonderful! SUPERIORE.DE

North-west of Montalcino, where the hills become wilder and shadier and the view extends towards the Maremma, lies Castello Romitorio in a secluded location that lives up to the name of the estate. Romitorio – hermitage. When Sandro Chia acquired the dilapidated castle in 1984, it had been uninhabited for decades, most recently a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. He paved it with art and planted the slopes with old Sangiovese clones – without knowing what speciality this north-western microclimate strip would one day bring to the bottle. The vineyards receive less direct sunlight than the southern slopes, the temperatures are cooler and ripening is later – conditions that give the Sangiovese elegance rather than vigour.

A Barbaresco from our own vineyards in Treiso and San Rocco Seno d'Elvio. Each parcel is harvested separately and fermented in stainless steel; gentle remontage, selective délestage, followed by calm malolactic fermentation. For the maturation phase, the winery uses large Slavonian barrels, supplemented by a smaller proportion of French oak – not to provide flavour, but to fine-tune the texture and balance. Thanks to stable summer weather and cool nights in autumn, 2020 produced fully ripe, healthy harvestwith a well-proportioned acidity line.

This beguiling Gewürztraminer is one of the most exciting growths in the wine world and the favourite of the Italians. Golden yellow with an aroma potpourri of roses, exotic fruits and oriental spices. Powerful and complex on the palate with discreet residual sweetness and a long finish. Gewürztraminer Sanct Valentin is an absolute top growth that promises wonderful drinking pleasure even after many years. SUPERIORE.DE

Mulino comes from a lower-lying vineyard with a high proportion of marine fossils in the soil. It is dark and rich in the glass, with notes of plum jam, balsamic herbs, pine shavings and cloves, but also with a mentholated freshness that centres the whole experience. On the palate, it glides like pure silk, elegant and supple, with ripe, balsamic fruit and a hint of sweet mint. Finishes with a powerful structure and persistence, leaving behind nuances of cedar wood and red plums. SUPERIORE.DE

Poliziano stands for Nobile di Montepulciano – almost everyone knows that. But at the end of the 1990s, Federico Carletti bought a second estate, far to the south, in the centre of Maremma: Lohsa. Sandstone soils, a hundred metres above sea level, the Mediterranean climate clearly noticeable. A different terroir, a different language – and consequently a different wine. The Mandrone di Lohsa "speaks" Cabernet Sauvignon, but with an unmistakable Tuscan-Mediterranean accent. Complemented by Petit Verdot and Carignano – not decoration, but character. Small, decisive proportions that give the wine its spice, its solar power and its recognisability. Fermentation in conical steel tanks with a long maceration period, 18 months ageing in French barriques and tonneaux.

Enrico Serafino's classic opens in a medium-dark colour with fragrant aromas of dark fruits, plums, spices, iron ore and freshly ploughed earth. Medium-bodied on the palate, rather slender, which is not a flaw, but emphasises the elegance and class of the Nebbiolo grape very nicely. The tannins are present but pleasantly tame, with peppery nuances on the finish, a salty mineral aftertaste and delicate nougat on the final. SUPERIORE.DE

Poggio Valente comes from a single vineyard of the same name at an altitude of around 300 metres. Opulent floral and small-fruited Sangiovese nose with optimally nuanced hints of tobacco, cedar and mint. Precise on the palate with plenty of pressure and power, then towards the end the furious resolution of all the well-dosed components in a fine, silky texture and an unforgettable, long final. SUPERIORE.DE

As every year, the grapes for Riccardo Campinoti's "white label" come from the scattered vineyards of Le Ragnaie, making the wine a precise and classic snapshot of the diverse Montalcino area and the wonderful 2019 vintage: violets and Mediterranean scrub meet wild strawberries, stones and a fascinating earthiness. It also epitomises the vibrancy of Sangiovese, which initially appears medium-bodied and then gains strength as firm, dusty tannins wrap themselves around a tangy core. The finish is energetic and uplifting - an elegantly moulded Brunello with impeccable symmetry and purity of fruit. As with the estate's single-vineyard bottlings, fermentation is spontaneous, maceration lasts 45 to 50 days and ageing takes place in large Slavonian oak barrels. SUPERIORE.DE

"Silent greatness. Noble is he who is self-sufficient. Perhaps a little demanding and in any case sensitive. But has many sought-after qualities: Clarity, freshness, complexity." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

The grapes for the Annata, which was certified organic for the first time in 2020, come from a 13-hectare site at an altitude of 500 metres. The soils here are somewhat lighter and stonier than the average for the appellation, with slate-rich Galestro and calcareous Alberese. As always, Poggio Antico's 2020 vintage is authentic and classic, with bright fruit tones, wild cherries, roasted nuts, blue flowers and forest floor. While the other wines in the portfolio mature in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian barrels. We like the energetic lift and the simultaneous brightness of the fruit - the winery achieves this like no other. As the wine progresses, the approach is very delicate with a convincing intensity of floral aromas and a silky mouthfeel. A lively acidity ensures balance and freshness right to the end, while a salty, mineral note is added on the finish. As always, this Brunello from the best winery is a safe bet! SUPERIORE.DE

Serralunga sits enthroned on its hill like a medieval fortress – and its wines taste exactly the same. Of all eleven Barolo communes, this one is the most uncompromising: here, where the oldest soils in the region lie, grey marl and sandstone from the Serravallian twelve million years ago, the Nebbiolo has to fight for every drop of water. The roots dig deep into the cement-like rock, interspersed with limestone and iron oxide. The result is wines of monumental structure – austere, long-lasting, legendary. Enrico Serafino has been cultivating his own vineyards here, an investment by the Krause Gentile family since 2015. Vinification is an act of precision: hand-picking is followed by sorting on the vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow and cold maceration before fermentation. The must remains on the skins for a full 28 days – with délestage and a submerged cap, Serralunga is extracted for what it has to give. The wine is aged for a total of 28 months, first in tonneaux and then in larger oak barrels.

Beneath the village of Terlan, on the slopes of the Adige Valley, lies a geological secret. A sub-volcanic rock that differs in composition and character from anything known to the wine world. The porphyry is the foundation – volcanic, millions of years old, interspersed with fine quartz inclusions. The resulting soils are sandy-loamy, slightly acidic, free of lime and poor in nutrients. Highly water-permeable, naturally yield-limiting. A soil that stresses the vine – and forces it to dig deeper, become more concentrated, more mineralised. Since 1893, 143 members of the Cantina Terlan have been cultivating these slopes. What they do here is unique in the world of wine: white wines that last for decades, whose longevity is reminiscent of the Grands Crus of the Côte d'Or. Cellar master Rudi Kofler named the quartz after the rock to which it owes everything. "Delicate like the fine quartz inclusions in the Terlan porphyry – that is our Sauvignon." Fine texture. Depth. Salty finish.

Deep, dark Riserva with a powerful berry bouquet and intense spicy notes and hints of damp forest floor. Taut on the palate, crisp fruit, solid tannins, good length. Lots of energy, nice spice and great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

2019 was a gift to Nebbiolo in the Barbaresco DOCG - and Vanotu has accepted it. This Barbaresco from the historic Basarin cru vineyard in Neive bears the signature of a great vintage with quiet naturalness: nothing is overdrawn, nothing loud - everything is in its place with quiet precision. The vines stand on sparse limestone marl, interspersed with sandy veins, with optimal south-west exposure. This site produces wines with depth and tension, but also airiness - a play of power and transparency that is exemplified in Vanotu 2019. The wine was matured for 20 months in French barriques, sensitively dosed, only to frame the wine, not to mould it.

The Allegrini family has been contributing to the history of Valpolicella since the 16th century. Giovanni Allegrini, the visionary, is considered the architect of its rebirth. A man they called "il ragno delle botti", the cellar master spider, because he wandered restlessly between his barrels, always in search of perfection. His son Franco carried on the legacy, revolutionising the Appassimento with the construction of the Terre di Fumane – a state-of-the-art drying facility that precisely controls temperature, humidity and air circulation. Since 2022, the winery has been in the hands of the third generation: Francesco, Giovanni, Matteo and Silvia. The Amarone comes from vines that have been rooted for over 30 years on the hills of Fumane, between 450 and 520 metres above sea level, on clay and limestone soils of volcanic origin. Corvina Veronese and Corvinone each make up 45 per cent of the cuvée, supplemented by Rondinella and Oseleta. After the manual harvest in September, the transformation begins: the grapes rest for four months in the fruttaio, losing 40 to 45 per cent of their weight, concentrating sugar and aromas. Gentle pressing in January, followed by 25 days of maceration at a controlled temperature. Ageing: 18 months in new barriques, a further seven months in large barrels and finally 14 months in the bottle – a total of over three years before the wine leaves the winery.