Wine Spectator | 95–100 Points

Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello. When he founded the first Cantine Sociale in Barbaresco in 1894, Ovello was already part of his plan – one of the oldest and most original vineyards in this appellation. Today, with over twenty hectares, Ovello is by far the largest of the nine Produttori del Barbaresco sites and is located at the northernmost point of the municipal area, where the hill has various exposures – west-south-west and east-south-east – on a soil that is both calcareous and rich in clay. The clay is more present here than elsewhere in Barbaresco, and it gives the wine its typical opulence: plump fruit, full body, firm tannins. The Produttori del Barbaresco also vinify Ovello according to the same principle that has been maintained for decades: 28 days of maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian barrels, a further year in the bottle. The Riserve are bottled exclusively in exceptional vintages – and 2021 leaves no doubt about that.

Fuligni's superb 2019 Riserva shows a beautiful tertiary intensity with wild berries and plums, followed by balsamic herbs, liquorice, grilled herbs and spices. We are delighted by the sheer opulence and richness of this wine, which remains pleasantly medium-bodied throughout, yet produces plenty of elegance and sufficient power on the other side. This Riserva from a top vintage never feels too heavy or too flat, but impresses with its disciplined energy and vitality. With each successive glass, the wine becomes a perfectly balanced world of modernity and tradition that is unrivalled in its wine form. SUPERIORE.DE

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

Above the vineyard is a brown road sign: Passo del Lume Spento m. 621 s.l.m. The highest point of the entire Brunello appellation. The name is self-explanatory: The wind on this sandstone plateau was so strong that it extinguished the lanterns of the carriages that once crossed this pass. The light always went out. The place remained. No Brunello was allowed to grow here until 2016. The DOCG regulations set an upper limit at 600 metres – and Passo del Lume Spento is at 621 metres. When the rules were changed, Riccardo Campinoti was one of the first to take the plunge. The vines were planted in 2010 and 2012 – young, on a sandstone plateau with south-west exposure, which on clear days offers views as far as the Tyrrhenian Sea. Gaja and Marchesi Antinori have also bought in this zone since then. You don't have to be a clairvoyant to understand why.

Directly in front of the winery, at an altitude of 600 metres, with a view to the south-west and the sea on the horizon, lies a vineyard that was planted in 1968. It is called Vigna Vecchia – the old vineyard. That's all it needs to introduce itself. 56-year-old vines on quartz-rich soil, the last plot on the estate to be harvested – some years not until mid-October. The old vine is slow, it yields little and concentrates a lot. What it produces is not a broad portrait of the terroir, but a monologue – precise and of a density that can only be explained by age. Riccardo Campinoti vinifies the Vigna Vecchia like all his Brunello: concrete vats, natural yeasts, long maceration, then 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. No Riserva label – although the wine would justify it. Campinoti deliberately refrains from doing so. As in Burgundy, it is the location and terroir that count, not the category.

On the full bouquet we find ripe dark fruits complemented by spiced oranges, sage and mint with a hint of green olive. On the palate, velvety textures are contrasted by cooling acids, while polished black fruits wash over the senses, leaving a mix of salty minerals and fine tannins with a hint of violet flowers. The finish is long, packed with masses of ripe blackberries, plums and sweet herbal tones, but also perfectly structured and, for all its youthfulness, very balanced and harmonious. Luigi Moio and his team have interpreted this vintage brilliantly and once again set new standards with this single-vineyard Aglianico. SUPERIORE.DE

Sibi et paucis – for the few who understand that great wines are not in a hurry. Sandrone retains around 10 per cent of the production from each Aleste vintage and allows these bottles to mature for a full decade longer in his own cellar. What could have been released in September 2019 remains dormant until today – and is becoming something that goes beyond regular Barolo.

Just a few metres down the slope from the legendary Bricco Boschis lies a cru that was long overshadowed by its famous neighbour until Cavallotto recognised the potential of this unique location in 1989: the Vignolo. On 1.96 hectares of steep south-west-facing slopes, where 10,700 Nebbiolo vines planted in 1948 and 1966 are rooted in calcareous marl, a Barolo with a completely different personality is created – more elegant, more floral, more seductive than the powerful wines from Bricco Boschis. Vignolo embodies the feminine side of Cavallatto – a wine that does not impress through power, but enchants through finesse. The site, 60-80 metres lower than Bricco Boschis, benefits from a milder microclimate and a different geological composition, which produces wines with "soft and sweet" tannins – already accessible in their youth, but with the potential for decades of development.

The grapes for the Annata, which was certified organic for the first time in 2020, come from a 13-hectare site at an altitude of 500 metres. The soils here are somewhat lighter and stonier than the average for the appellation, with slate-rich Galestro and calcareous Alberese. As always, Poggio Antico's 2020 vintage is authentic and classic, with bright fruit tones, wild cherries, roasted nuts, blue flowers and forest floor. While the other wines in the portfolio mature in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian barrels. We like the energetic lift and the simultaneous brightness of the fruit - the winery achieves this like no other. As the wine progresses, the approach is very delicate with a convincing intensity of floral aromas and a silky mouthfeel. A lively acidity ensures balance and freshness right to the end, while a salty, mineral note is added on the finish. As always, this Brunello from the best winery is a safe bet! SUPERIORE.DE

Il Caberlot is normally only bottled in magnum format. Here we offer a few bottles from a small edition, which were bottled in the 0.75 litre bottle (demi-magnum) with the addition of the name "Sommelleria" especially for restaurants.

No other point in the Barbaresco geography is as geologically charged as Rabajà. Where the two ridges of the village meet – one sloping westwards towards the Tanaro, with loose, calcareous soil; the other facing north, with compact, calcareous subsoil –lies the vineyard. The secret of its complexity lies in the intersection of the soils: Rabajà combines what is otherwise separate. The south-westerly exposure provides warmth; the limestone gives tension. The result is a wine that does not play off elegance and power, but rather blends them together. The Produttori del Barbaresco first bottled Rabajà in 1970 – the entire production was purchased by Ristorante Guido in Costigliole d'Asti, a silent sign that this wine would become more than just an insider tip right from the start. Vinification: 28 days on the skins, thirty months or more in wooden barrels, one year in the bottle.

Guado al Tasso presents itself with a warm-toned bouquet and an abundance of fruit that is just as convincing as its harmonious structure. Deep, dark, rich ruby-purple colour. Very clear and intense nose, with aromas of blackberries, cassis and dark cherries, underpinned by fine, spicy notes with hints of white pepper and leather. Very juicy on the attack and on the palate, with plenty of sweet flavour, elegant tannins and a very long finish. A finesse-rich red that offers maximum drinking pleasure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The Vigna del Sorbo vineyard is located directly in front of the winery. The south-west facing vineyard with Galestro soils covers 8 hectares at an altitude of 450 metres. The Riserva was first produced in 1985 and has been labelled Gran Selezione since the 2010 vintage.

There are wines that have changed the history of their country. Not by chance, not because of a passing trend – but through a single, well-founded act of provocation. In 1971, Piero Antinori commissioned one of the most prominent Italian graphic designers of his time to design the label for his new wine: Silvio Coppola, known for book covers and designer furniture, for his austerity and minimalist style. The label was minimalist – but the wine behind it was a revolution. No Trebbiano, no Malvasia. No white grapes in the red wine, as the Chianti regulations had stipulated since Ricasoli's time. Instead: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Barrique instead of large casks. A wine that consequently automatically fell outside the DOC classification – and was launched on the market as a simple Vino da Tavola. Piero Antinori signed the label with his father Niccolò's name: a gesture of gratitude for the trust that had allowed him the boldness to do so in the first place.

The already very well-balanced and classic 2018 vintage can gain again with Fuligni, because no Riserva was produced. Ruby red with orange reflections. On the nose, after some aeration, ripe morello cherries, violets, roses and lots of Mediterranean scrub. Powerful on the palate, the silky tannins give it elegance and the necessary balance, its complexity comes to the fore with every sip. This very authentic and strongly focused Brunello can be counted among the best of the vintage, its wonderfully balanced proportions and its juiciness will give it further impetus in the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE

Albesani leaves nothing to be desired, in expression and character it is simply grandiose. The fresh bouquet of flowers, chalk, tobacco and cherries continues on the palate, where a beguilingly silky tannin and aromatic intensity virtually rob the senses. A masterpiece from Luca Roagna! SUPERIORE.DE

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

2020 is the first organic Oreno vintage. Deep dark ruby violet. On the nose, cassis, blackcurrant and a powerful herbal spice with a good dose of pipe tobacco, tar and crushed boulders. On the palate, dark berries, chocolate and a cornucopia of herbs define the full body. This juicy wine monument has precisely integrated tannins, an enormous silkiness and a seemingly endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Rose petals, spices and red-coloured fruit float in the glass, supported by fine, racy tannins. On the palate, the typical, medium-bodied characteristics of Bricco delle Viole are evident, while the contours are soft and the wine's personality demands the next sip. Vajra fans should give it a few more years to mature, despite its current accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

The world-famous Caiarossa is an extremely exciting blend of the Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Grenache varieties, with the rich, dark fruit flavours of the Cabernet grapes taking centre stage. On the nose, a beautiful first wave of dark fruits that never appear too ripe, which greatly benefits the elegance of the wine. The palate is very balanced and focussed with blackberries, cassis and slight hints of salty or rusty minerals. Caiarossa displays a good degree of elegance, not least due to its fine and taut tannins, and despite its density and complexity never comes across as opulent or even overloaded. SUPERIORE.DE

"Ruby red with bright reflections. The nose delights with a bouquet of floral notes: Mallow, hibiscus and hollyhocks are surrounded by fruity cherries and preserved raspberries and complemented by spicy aromas of black pepper, cedar and juniper berries. The red fruit is accompanied by dark aromas and vegetal notes of blackcurrant and blackberry leaves. The attack is initially subtle until the iron fist is brought out in a velvet glove. The gentle attack calmly builds up immense pressure with great inner tension on the mid-palate. The extract-sweet fruit of cherries and a fine core of sloes mingle with marzipan and noble bitter notes of the ripe tannins, which give it additional length. The exemplary use of wood highlights exactly what characterises a Barbaresco: Concentration combined with lightness and transparency." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)