Vintage 2023

The grapes for Franz Haas' Petit Manseng remain on the vines for an extra week to ripen. After fermentation, the wine is matured for 10 months in used barriques. Strong straw yellow colour. Highly aromatic, intense bouquet of dried fruit, traces of honey and a subtle minerality. Complex on the palate, very well structured, with a creamy texture and wonderfully mild acidity and subtle freshness. Very long finish and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

An idiosyncratic wine with character: Paolo Meroi's Ribolla Gialla comes from high-altitude plots around Buttrio, where cool nights and limestone-rich soils preserve the freshness of the grape variety. Unlike many wines from the region, Meroi's wine is not matured in steel tanks, but partly in used wood - a careful, finely balanced process that adds texture and depth without masking the varietal character. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass. Pear, yellow stone fruit, lime blossom, citrus zest and a hint of hazelnut on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, silky and delicately melting, supported by fresh acidity and subtle spice. The finish is long, cool and salty-mineral. A modern interpretation of the indigenous grape variety - focussed, elegant and absolutely harmonious. SUPERIORE.DE

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.

A Chardonnay with a clear expression of origin and subtle noblesse: Paolo Meroi ferments and ages his white wine from high-altitude vineyards around Buttrio partly in used wood - enough to give it depth and structure, but without any intrusive woody flavours. The result is a wine of great balance. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. On the nose, yellow apple, ripe lemon, some quince, white flowers and a fine hint of vanilla and roasted hazelnut. Dense yet precise on the palate, with a smooth, salty flavour and cool minerality. The acidity is present but well integrated, the finish is elegant and accompanied by a slight spiciness. A Friuli Chardonnay with a Burgundian soul - focussed, multi-layered and far from arbitrary. SUPERIORE.DE

Bright, radiant golden yellow in colour. The aromas of this crus float weightlessly in the air and range from ripe banana, peach and marzipan to Amalfi lemons and quinces. The palate is creamy and surprisingly tannic for a white wine, with firm, crisp acidity and terrificcomplexity. Layer by layer, the components of this characterful white wine unfold into a refined potpourri that impressively demonstrates Luigi Moro's great class. A Greco di Tufo with huge ageing potential and, for us, like something from another planet. SUPERIORE.DE

Here, the Falanghina grape variety is redefined with impressive nuances and elegance at the highest level: Light straw yellow with golden reflections. Ripe herbal aromas, tonic, sweet lemon, grapefruit and apricot on the nose. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, with a delightful floral lift and energy that leads seamlessly into the long, complex finish with a savoury bite and pronounced minerality. A beautiful, distinctive single-vineyard Falanghina in a class of its own. SUPERIORE.DE

Keir Ansonica is the white answer to Keir Syrah, which is also aged in amphorae. A wine produced in small quantities of 2,000 bottles, which is neither clarified nor filtered and is an expression of both innovation and tradition.

Juvelo is the crown jewel of Andrian. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – while others have long since harvested their grapes, here a few Gewürztraminer vines are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes hang on the vine until they are clearly covered in noble mould. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the grape skin and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are picked by hand, berry by berry. There is no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months of ageing in barriques, time that this wine needs to develop its complexity.

Maurizio Castelli does not like fancy names. That's why he took a simple but original approach to naming the estate and its top wine: 414 – which is the number of the vineyard in the region's land register. His Morellino has become a true Italian classic with a modern interpretation. The grapes come from biodynamically farmed hills around Scansano with deep-rooted Sangiovese. The 2023 vintage was characterised by warm, sunny weather and moderate ripeness, ideal for aromatic clarity and balance. Temperature control during maceration and a subsequent maturation phase of around 12 months in large wooden barrels characterise this wine.

On the hill of Rosazzo, where Augustinian monks were already making wine in the year 1000, lies a vineyard that understands Sauvignon like few others in Italy. Ronco del Gnemiz treats every parcel like a Grand Cru – not as a marketing slogan, but as a working philosophy. Serena Palazzolo and her husband Christian Patat, an Oenologist with a steady hand and a clear eye, have created something here that has become rare: wines that let their place speak for itself. Salici comes from a vineyard planted in 1997 on the lower slope, where lighter soils give the Sauvignon a different voice than on the heavy Ponca marls further up. The grapes are pressed as whole bunches, then the must ferments exclusively in wood – partly in barriques, partly in Liters barrels. No malolactic fermentation, no bâtonnage. Christian Patat leaves the wine alone for twelve months until it shows what it can do on its own.

"San Zuan" is one of the great interpretations of Friulano every year – and in the 2023 vintage it shows a slightly different facet. The single vineyard site above San Giovanni al Natisone, characterised by barren Ponca soils, benefits from a microclimate that combines warmth and alpine freshness. 2023 brought a rather unsettled spring with variable rainfall and later a hot, dry summer that put the vines to the test. However, cool September nights preserved the acidity and lent the grapes precision and flavour. The grapes were harvested in several stages at the end of September, gently pressed and traditionally matured in large, used wooden barrels. The prolonged contact with the lees gave the wine depth and a creamy but never opulent texture.

"Ronco Basso" is one of the more powerful Chardonnays from Ronco del Gnemiz – and in the 2023 vintage it shows a particularly fine balance between substance and freshness. The lower-lying parcel near San Giovanni al Natisone, whose Ponca soils are rich in marl and sandstone, produces wines with denser fruit and a subtly creamy core. The year 2023 brought a changeable spring with sufficient rainfall and a warm summer that was challenging at times. However, cool nights in September maintained the tension and led to a staggered, selective harvest at the end of the month. The must fermented spontaneously in used barriques and matured on the fine lees to develop density and structure without losing its freshness.

The site near Buttrio, where the grapes of the autochthonous Friulano grape variety originate, is one of the Grand Crus of the Friuli Colli Orientali appellation together with Rosazzo. Not only are there no regulations here, but there is also a poor, loose marl soil, which ensures extremely low yields every year. In good vintages, however, the rewards are all the greater: the volume and fruit concentration, the lower acidity and the unmistakable salinity of the wines will, after a few years of ageing in the bottle, lead to enjoyable heights that will make lovers of complex, energetic white wines dizzy. SUPERIORE.DE

The single-vineyard Sauvignon Bianco Lozeta is the result of the avant-garde planting system, which, in contrast to the cultivation method previously practised in Friuli, not only means a higher planting density, but also the intelligent use of clones and biotypes that have been married with French offshoots. It is a further uncompromising and consistent step towards complexity and personality, with optimal utilisation and expression of the existing terroir and microclimate.

Light yellow-green colour, very inviting aroma of pear fruit, melon and delicate grapefruit. Juicy and powerful on the palate, the flavours are reminiscent of white fruit, racy acidity, elegant and mineral. SUPERIORE.DE

Medium yellow-green, intense floral and gooseberry aromas on the nose, fresh grapefruit, lime zest and basil. Full-bodied on the palate, elegant texture, fine acidity, mineral, racy and very drinkable. A Sauvignon with great varietal character. SUPERIORE.DE