Vintage 2023

There are wines that tell stories before you have even tasted them. Poggio alle Gazze is one of them. Its name – the hill of the magpies – refers to the special vineyard where these elegant birds build their nests and from where the view sweeps unhindered over the Tyrrhenian Sea. Here, where the Mediterranean salt wind meets volcanic soil, one of Tuscany's most innovative white wines has been produced for more than two decades. It embodies a refreshing spirit that is, quote: "as delicate as the breeze, but at the same time lush and self-confident". This poetic description hits the nail on the head: Poggio alle Gazze is Ornellaia's answer to the question of what a white wine in Bolgheri can look like when it has the elegance and depth of the great reds. Six months of ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, followed by the assembly of the final blend and a further 12 months of bottle ageing, complete this masterpiece of white wine art.

In the hills of Bibbona, where the vineyards of the Alta Maremma overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, this characterful cuvée is the result of the Antinori brothers' ambitious project. The name Insoglio is a poetic reference to the places where wild boar burrow in the ground – a symbol of the wild, unspoilt nature of the Maremma landscape. Composed mainly of Syrah, supplemented by Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is an intense purple-red colour with violet reflections. The nose reveals scents of violets and wild berries, interspersed with the characteristic pepper spice and Mediterranean scrub with myrtle and rosemary. Enveloping and fresh on the palate, with polished tannins that create the perfect balance between territorial character and elegant drinking pleasure. A wine with a strong personality from Antinori's Tenuta di Biserno winery. SUPERIORE.DE

"Silent greatness. Noble is he who is self-sufficient. Perhaps a little demanding and in any case sensitive. But has many sought-after qualities: Clarity, freshness, complexity." Michael Graf Goëss-Enzenberg, Weingut Manincor

The Collio Chardonnay Selezione with a grey label in a small edition of just 2,000 bottles is another special wine from Borgo del Tiglio, characterised by extreme varietal purity and a light, lively and airy bouquet. The wine's aromas are characterised on the one hand by fresh apricots and nectarines and on the other by creamy almond paste, preserved lemon and poached pear. The warmth of the 2023 vintage has contributed to an added textural richness that makes it a perfect match for an appetiser of escargots. SUPERIORE.DE

Reserve your best fish recipe for the Borgo del Tiglio Collio Sauvignon Selezione. It is a textbook rendition of the fragrant grape, dressed in a manner typical of Friuli. In fact, compared to Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, this region tends to produce softer wines that do not have pungent green notes. The bouquet is floral and delicate, with notes of white rose, fruit, quince and delicate lemon. There is also a very pronounced mineral note, reminiscent of crushed shells, in this edition of 1,200 bottles, which immediately transports you to the north-east of Italy. Hats off! SUPERIORE.DE

This magnificent Etna Bianco reflects the mineral profile of its origin with clarity and authenticity. It grows in the Contrada Feudo near Randazzo, at an altitude of around 650 metres, where volcanic soils with grey ash and lapilli give it a clear structure of origin. The year 2023 was balanced and cool on Etna – ideal conditions for relaxed ripening with a clear freshness. The grapes were harvested early and come partly from terraces with decades-old vines. The vinification combines a classic stainless steel tank approach with six months of ageing in tonneau – a mix that combines fullness, varietal purity and fine flavour.

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.

Borgo del Tiglio's Malvasia Italo & Bruno (of which only 1,200 bottles were produced) is a delicate wine with pretty scents reminiscent of white flowers, gardenias and honeydew melon. There is also a distinct mineral note, but here it is more dusty or ashy than salty. This is an exceptional expression of Malvasia, a versatile grape with particularly floral flavours when in the right hands. SUPERIORE.DE

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has achieved immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. But Cinzia Merli dared to – and created the white alter ego of her legendary red Paleo line in 1991 with Paleo Bianco. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants developed into one of the most enigmatic and sought-after white wines in Italy. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan haystack – has the same poetic soul as its red brother, but its character is completely unique. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc merge here to create a symphony of Mediterranean intensity that translates international grape varieties into Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that led the Paleo Bianco from the citrusy freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

Ronco della Chiesa is another inspiring expression from one of Italy's most exciting white wine artists: the wine is made from 100% Friulano and is aged for 10 months in barriques. Its complexity is extraordinary. The wine grows in intensity with every passing minute, with notes of white peach, nectarine, poached pear and crushed limestone. As it progresses, there are hints of baked sweet bread or buttery croissant. On the palate, a very pleasing, medium fruit weight with beautiful, balanced acidity. Its quality clearly comes more from the fruit than from the winemaking. Only 2,600 bottles of this great Friulano were produced. SUPERIORE.DE

Now a modern classic among the white Langhe wines, which carries history and at the same time whets the appetite for the future: Rossj-Bass was created in 1988, named after Rossana (Rossj), Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter, and also refers to one of the two original parcels of land – bass, in Piedmontese for the lower vineyard. Over the years, the socialisation of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in historically important cru sites in Barbaresco, Treiso and Serralunga created a stylistic signature with a clear identity.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Elisabetta Geppetti is the woman who put Maremma on the Italian wine map. When she took over the management of Le Pupille in 1985, the area south of Grosseto was a blank spot for connoisseurs – today, her Saffredi is one of the most sought-after red wines in Italy. But what few people realise: She harboured her most passionate dream not for the red, but for a white. The Petit Manseng originally comes from Gascony – the region in the south-west of France where it produces the great sweet wines in Juranção and Pacherenc. Elisabetta Geppetti brought it to the Maremma and planted it on 1.5 hectares in the Vigneto Pian di Fiora near Pereta: tufaceous soil with alabaster and gypsum, north-eastern exposure, 200 to 250 metres, 6,250 plants per hectare. A plot that no one else in the neighbourhood has – and that speaks a language you wouldn't expect here.

The winery's flagship white wine is called Studio di Bianco and is a blend of 40% Friulano, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Riesling, aged for 10 months in large barrels. It is an exceptional white wine, certainly one of the best in Italy, with a unique energy and tension that is reflected in a complex bouquet. A cornucopia of floral aromas, stone fruit, peach cake, honey and vanilla cream explode in the glass. The medium-bodied texture of the wine finishes smooth and very defined, revealing a unique complexity and elegance. The total production per vintage is just 1,900 bottles and anyone who has had this wine in their glass at least once in their life should consider themselves lucky. SUPERIORE.DE

Keir Ansonica is the white answer to Keir Syrah, which is also aged in amphorae. A wine produced in small quantities of 2,000 bottles, which is neither clarified nor filtered and is an expression of both innovation and tradition.

Some wines already bear their character in their name. Alteni di Brassica: it sounds like old stone walls, like the cool wind that blows through the hills of the Barbaresco region, like wild herbs that grow in the gardens between the vines. And indeed, this Sauvignon Blanc from Angelo Gaja tells exactly that: not of the exoticism of the grape variety, but of the landscape from which it comes.

The famous Castello della Sala is situated on a hill above Orvieto – a medieval stronghold surrounded by woods and olive groves, deep in the Umbrian silence. The Marchesi Antinori have owned it for generations, but what made it a wine legend was the first Cervaro della Sala in 1985: a white wine that was conceived as a red wine – barrique fermentation, malolactic fermentation, long breath. Making a white wine that would last for decades was not a matter of course in Italy at the time. But it became one. The vinification follows a principle that Renzo Cotarella once formulated and that still applies today: as little intervention as possible. The Castello winery works with gravity – no mechanical pumps, no unnecessary stress for the grapes. The harvest begins in the early hours of the morning when the temperatures are still cool. The Chardonnay macerates on the skins for four hours at 10 degrees, then ferments in barriques and matures in partial BSA. The Grechetto remains consistently in steel – it provides the tension that Chardonnay alone cannot deliver. The two come together in February.

The small, 80-year-old vineyard of Pietrabona on the island of Giglio produces an Ansonica of outstanding quality, and so Bibi Graetz decided to vinify the grapes separately in small batches. The vines stand on a bed of rocks and granite sand less than 50 metres from the sea, resulting in a wine with a subtle aroma of ripe oranges, fine spice, flint and minerality.

The famous Castello della Sala is situated on a hill above Orvieto – a medieval stronghold surrounded by woods and olive groves, deep in the Umbrian silence. The Marchesi Antinori have owned it for generations, but what made it a wine legend was the first Cervaro della Sala in 1985: a white wine that was conceived as a red wine – barrique fermentation, malolactic fermentation, long breath. Making a white wine that would last for decades was not a matter of course in Italy at the time. But it became one. The vinification follows a principle that Renzo Cotarella once formulated and that still applies today: as little intervention as possible. The Castello winery works with gravity – no mechanical pumps, no unnecessary stress for the grapes. The harvest begins in the early hours of the morning when the temperatures are still cool. The Chardonnay macerates on the skins for four hours at 10 degrees, then ferments in barriques and matures in partial BSA. The Grechetto remains consistently in steel – it provides the tension that Chardonnay alone cannot deliver. The two come together in February.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Some wines already bear their character in their name. Alteni di Brassica: it sounds like old stone walls, like the cool wind that blows through the hills of the Barbaresco region, like wild herbs that grow in the gardens between the vines. And indeed, this Sauvignon Blanc from Angelo Gaja tells exactly that: not of the exoticism of the grape variety, but of the landscape from which it comes.