VINOUS.COM – Valpolicella & Amarone

When Italy taster Eric Guido (Vinous.com) calls the Veneto the "land of opportunities", wine lovers prick up their ears. But read for yourself how he assesses the current development of the exciting northern Italian wine region:

"Every time I travel to Veneto, I discover something new and exciting that inspires me to dig deeper. Last December, the hills of the Colli Berici, east of Soave, proved particularly fascinating. harvestshould also explore the Colli Euganei and Breganze, areas that produce excellent dry red wines and some of the best white dessert wines in Veneto. In short, wine lovers should not miss the leap in quality that is taking place in Veneto.

Valpolicella is divided into two main zones. The Classico zone is so close to Lake Garda that on a clear day you can see the shores from many vineyards. The Classico zone comprises five municipalities (Negrar, Marano di Valpolicella, Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella, Fumane and San Pietro in Cariano) spread over three valleys. The most traditional families, such as Quintarelli and Brigaldara, are located here. The Fumane valley is the coolest, with steep elevations and rocky, layered limestone. To the east is the Marano Valley, which benefits from the cooling effect of the Lessini Mountains to the north and has soils of basaltic rock. Finally, the Negrar Valley, southeast of Marano, is rich in clayey soils, also from the Lessini Mountains to the north.

North of Verona, in the so-called "extended" part of Valpolicella, things change drastically. Here we find, among other things, the Valpantena valley, where the terrain rises rapidly to the Lessini mountains. It is a wild and rocky area with extreme temperature variations. Far from the Classico zone, in the valleys of Marcellise, Mezzane, Illasi and Cazzano di Tramigna, are vineyards for the production of Valpolicella and Amarone. These vineyards benefit from a complex mix of rocks and minerals. Many top wineries are located in these areas, including Roccolo Grassi and Romano Dal Forno. In the easternmost parts of Valpolicella, Soave is grown on the flat plains with their alluvial soils, as this is where the two DOCs overlap (more on this in a separate report).

Producers throughout Valpolicella continue to search for the next trend that will resonate with wine lovers around the world. Time has already taught them some lessons, as the popularity of the big, brooding Amarone is a thing of the past. Many consumers see sugar as the modern dietary enemy and therefore avoid wines with a sweet taste. In addition, younger generations are entering the market, craving wines with lower alcohol content and fresher character. Not to mention the question of what cuisine an Amarone goes with? Producers are aware of these challenges and are changing the way they think about their wines. The trend towards less alcohol and residual sugar is now leading to an Amarone style that also looks good at the table.

However, both the reputation of Amarone and its characteristics are challenging. The appassimento process (air-drying the grapes to reduce the water content and increase the sugar content and concentration) can enhance the depth and character of the wine. However, it also leads to glycerine-like textures and a deceptive perception of sweetness. In essence, even an Amarone with less than one gram of residual sugar per Liters and 14.50% alcohol can taste sweet - but this is a deception of the mind and the palate. There are already a large number of wineries producing perfectly balanced new-style wines, but also many that are still struggling. Lovers of the great old-school Amarone bottlings can rest easy, as there are many producers who are staying true to their roots and making some of the best hedonistic wines imaginable. Ultimately, the Amarone category is in a constant state of flux, but the future seems promising.

Beyond Amarone, things are getting very interesting. The trend towards making a better Valpolicella Superiore continues. These wines often come from a single vineyard or a special selection of fruit. In addition, the use of appassimento to enhance Valpolicella Superiore is going out of fashion. Producers strive for a wine that tells of the region, its terroir and autochthonous grape varieties, but also conveys meaning. For a long time, Valpolicella Superiore was considered the Beaujolais of Veneto: simple, light and fruity-sipable. However, the DOC regulations make this a very open category, allowing producers to get creative. A Valpolicella Superiore consists of a traditional blend of 45% to 95% Corvina or the large-grape Corvinone, 5% to 30% Rondinella and up to 10%, but not necessarily, Molinara, Croatina, Negrara and/or Dindarella. The regulation also states that the wine must be aged in the winery for at least one year before release. However, it is not clear from the label whether this is a top-class Valpolicella Superiore or an entertaining and fruity entry into the portfolio. It is to be hoped that the producers will look for a way to better define the category, because these really are wines that inspire.

In addition, Valpolicella Ripasso has fallen heavily out of favour with consumers and producers. This has largely to do with the better refinement of Amarone and the improvement of the Valpolicella category. A Ripasso is a Valpolicella wine that has been pressed over the marc of an Amarone and allowed to undergo a second fermentation. The wines are dry, but also much darker, deeper and with a bitter note reminiscent of the taste of Amarone. The Ripasso still has its place in the cellars of collectors, especially those who prefer more intense and sophisticated wines without venturing into Amarone territory. A good Ripasso can be enjoyed both at and away from the table. Nevertheless, producers feel that the wines no longer convey the freshness and importance of the grape varieties. Considering the addition of Amarone marc, they also lose any sense of individuality, as it is a wine made from two different wines.

Speaking of difficult categories on the market: the bittersweet Recioto is unfortunately no longer in demand among many wine drinkers. However, it is one of Italy's most interesting dessert wines, often tastier than you might think. Recioto is made by a longer appassimento, usually a month or more than Amarone, and then forced to finish fermentation before it is completely dry. The result is a wine of great power and depth. The best of them can also age remarkably well." Vinous

As always, we have brought you the wines currently rated by Eric Guido on our pages. We are pleased that we have once again shown the right instinct for great qualities at the correct value in our selection and purchase and wish you much pleasure in discovering and enjoying the great wines from the "land of opportunities".