VINOUS.COM – Sicily Report 2024

The Sallier de la Tour winery has been owned by the Counts Tasca since 2009, making it the fifth winery that complements and characterises the diversity and professionalism of what is probably Sicily's most famous winery. Aromatic bouquet of sweet cherries and wild berries. Clear on the palate with a beautiful fruit centre and a radiant freshness, appealing finish. A beautiful Syrah that impressively demonstrates Sicily's potential for international grape varieties. SUPERIORE.DE

The country dance (controdanza) is a typical dance in which man and woman face each other and unite in graceful movements - depending on their gender, the dancers interpret the music in their own way. This wine is exactly the same: Nero d'Aola and Merlot - opposites attract and, with the right sensitivity, can harmonise and contrast wonderfully.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Light ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of wild strawberry and delicate hints of black cherry, cinnamon and nutmeg. The corresponding, fresh flavour and subtle elegance lead to a harmonious and energetic finish. SUPERIORE.DE

For many, Carricante is inextricably linked with Etna. But with Carjcanti, Gulfi shows that this grape variety can also develop its very own, characterful profile in the south-eastern hinterland of Chiaramonte Gulfi on calcareous and clayey soils at an altitude of around 600 metres. Organic cultivation, hand-picking in the cool morning hours and gentle ageing in stainless steel tanks followed by six months of storage on the fine lees – accompanied by regular bâtonnage – ensure complexity, texture and freshness at the same time.

Proud single-vineyard Sicilian in a small edition made from 100% Carricante. Fine bouquet of citrus fruits and apricots. Wonderfully juicy fruit on the palate paired with good structure, balanced acidity, fine minerality and appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

The harvested Malvasia grapes remain in shaded drying chambers for several weeks under good ventilation. Without moisture and hot sun, the grapes dry slowly and thus retain their acidity and very moderate alcohol levels. Capofaro is an impressive dessert wine that comes from vines that once belonged to the late winemaker Carlo Hauner, who made Malvasia from the island of Salina famous.

Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita created the first expression of the highest quality and longevity in Sicilian viticulture in 1970 with the Rosso del Conte – a wine that changed the oenological future of the island forever. The grapes come from the Vigna San Lucio, Regaleali's first large vineyard, born in 1959 at an altitude of 480 metres with a south-south-easterly exposure, where Nero d'Avola and Perricone have thrived in harmonious symbiosis for generations. The vines grow in the Alberello system, the oldest form of cultivation in the Mediterranean, on yellow-brown, loamy-sandy soils with calcareous inclusions. A philosophy of perfection that has developed over five decades through various ageing methods: from the original chestnut barrels to Slavonian oak and today's French barriques.

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. Nerosanloré 2014 comes from this "private reserve", which will now - in spring 2023 - be offered in small quantities in Riserva quality with a further 5 years of bottle ageing.

Santo Spirito is one of the most striking contrade on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna – less stony than Rampante, but no less impressive. Here, at an altitude of around 700 metres, the old Nerello Mascalese vines are deeply rooted in ashy volcanic soil with a high sand content. The microclimate is cooler, the humidity higher and the east-facing exposure gives the grapes gentle morning warmth. Pietradolce vinifies the single-vineyard wine traditionally with spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, followed by approx. 12 months of ageing in large French tonneaux.

Feudo di Mezzo is more than just a vineyard – it is the historic centrepiece of viticulture on Etna. One of Pietradolce's oldest and most fascinating plots is located in the contrada of the same name, around 600 metres above sea level between the lava flows of past eruptions. The Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted here in deep black, mineral-rich lava soil with excellent drainage. The microclimate is characterised by wide temperature fluctuations, which give the wine a special depth and tension. Vinification is carried out with great sensitivity: spontaneous fermentation in traditional wooden vats, maturing for around 12 months in large tonneaux.

Archineri Bianco comes from a small, high-altitude single vineyard in the Contrada Rampante – one of the most renowned cru sites on Etna. The ungrafted vines, some of which are over 100 years old, are rooted at an altitude of 850 metres in barren, stony lava soil with north-eastern exposure. This extreme location ensures an extended growing season, pronounced day-night fluctuations and a precise, almost razor-sharp aroma spectrum. The single-varietal Carricante is selectively harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and then matured on the fine lees for several months.

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. From this "private reserve" comes Nerosanloré 2010, which is now - in spring 2023 - offered in small quantities with 9 years of further bottle ageing quasi in Riserva quality.

From the Contrada Arcuria in Passopisciaro on the north side of Mount Etna at an altitude of 600-700 metres, this 100% Carricante is vinified partly in cement tanks and partly in large oak barrels. The result is a fresh white wine from old vines with an invigorating citrus scent and notes of mint, rich in tropical fruit, taut and firm, with an elegant mineral note on the palate, with a fine finish and high complexity. 4,000 bottles are bottled per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Wonderful, deep aroma of dark wild cherries, crushed raspberries, pomegranate, roses and peppery herbs. Dense but not heavy on the palate, long and pure with multi-layered subtle fruit flavours. Salty minerals and violet blossom emerge on the finish, along with nuanced tannins that create a classically dry feel on the elegant finish. This wine is already an absolute pleasure to drink, and although it tastes great now, it will continue to refine in the bottle for several years. A sensual and enjoyable wine, 60 per cent Nero d'Avola from oak barrels and 40 per cent Frappato matured in a vitrified cement vat. SUPERIORE.DE

Fragore by Donnafugata from the Etna region of Montelaguardia in Randazzo joins the collection of iconic wines Mille e una Notte and Ben Ryè. With only 15,000 bottles, Donnafugata has produced a limited edition treasure. Fragore means thunder in Italian and refers to the volcanic thunder of Mount Etna, Europe's highest and most active volcano. Grapes of the autochthonous Nerello Mascalese grape variety from selected vineyards were used.

Contrada Feudo is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of around 650 metres, where the vines are rooted in volcanically mixed, sandy and stony soils. Some of the plots with Nerello Mascalese are over 70 years old and deliver concentrated but cool fruit year after year. 2021 was a classic vintage on Etna with a pronounced balance: not too hot, not too humid – ideal conditions for a precise style. The wine is aged for around 16 months in used tonneaux, which emphasises the characteristics of the vineyard and refines the tannin structure.

The Nero d'Avola grapes for the very rare Sultana come from a steeply sloping, bush-shaped vineyard facing north-west. The soil here is white with a limestone matrix, rich in minerals and drainage capacity. The pronounced slope and very poor soil reinforce the pedoclimatic characteristics in which the Nero d'Avola plants find a natural habitat. It is an extreme terroir, a combination of environmental and human factors, that distinguishes the Sultana vineyard from other vineyards. The light reflected by the white soils enhances the characteristics and ultimately the quality of the grapes from the vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

Giuseppe Russo cultivates part of the 12-hectare San Lorenzo vineyard at an altitude of around 750 metres on the slopes of Mount Etna near Randazzo. The lava flows of recent decades have created a porous soil here, rich in volcanic rock and therefore providing excellent drainage.

Bright ruby red colour. Refined raspberry and red cherry on the nose, with notes of quinine and flowers that develop with further aeration. Fresh flavours of red berries and smoked beef, with hints of violets and orange zest. Almost exotic on the palate with plenty of luscious extract sweetness and fine tannins and a fresh, mineral, dry finish. An exceptional red wine with a terrificarc of tension! SUPERIORE.DE

Around 2,000 bottles of this single-vineyard wine are sold each year. Extremely complex bouquet of blackberry, blackcurrant and sour cherry, with perfectly integrated notes of Mediterranean herbs. Broad and elegant on the palate, supported by a delicate acid wire that makes it fresh and lively. A great wine with excellent structure and remarkable persistence and depth of flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

Zottorinoto is not just any contrada – it is a legend among connoisseurs of Etna. Embedded in the historic parcel landscape around Castiglione di Sicilia, this single vineyard rests at 750 metres above sea level, characterised by ancient, barren lava flows rich in basalt, ash and volcanic sand. Wines with a crystal-clear mineral identity are produced here, in which the fire of Mount Etna meets the cool elegance of high altitudes. Only a small proportion of the vines – exclusively Nerello Mascalese – is earmarked for this exceptional Riserva. The vines are deeply rooted in the dark soils, many of them over half a century old, cultivated in the traditional Alberello way. Vinification is carried out with the utmost care: manual harvest in small crates, spontaneous fermentation on the skins for around 30 days, gentle pumping over, long maceration. The wine then matures for 24 months in French tonneaux (partly new), followed by a further 24 months in the bottle. The 2019 vintage was balanced and cool – with long vegetation cycles, ideal ripeness and striking freshness. A year for long-lasting, precisely structured wines.

Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita created the first expression of the highest quality and longevity in Sicilian viticulture in 1970 with the Rosso del Conte – a wine that changed the oenological future of the island forever. The grapes come from the Vigna San Lucio, Regaleali's first large vineyard, born in 1959 at an altitude of 480 metres with a south-south-easterly exposure, where Nero d'Avola and Perricone have thrived in harmonious symbiosis for generations. The vines grow in the Alberello system, the oldest form of cultivation in the Mediterranean, on yellow-brown, loamy-sandy soils with calcareous inclusions. A philosophy of perfection that has developed over five decades through various ageing methods: from the original chestnut barrels to Slavonian oak and today's French barriques.

The Grand Cru Sopra il Pozzo is Graci's personal homage to a tiny section of land within the Contrada Arcurìa – a higher part, stony, barren, cool, at around 750 metres above sea level. The soil: decomposed lava basalt, ash, pumice. Low in nutrients, but full of energy. Old Nerello Mascalese vines are rooted here in bush form in harmony with the centuries-old cultural landscape of the northern slope of Mount Etna. The 2019 vintage was balanced and significantly cooler than its predecessors, characterised by a long vegetation cycle with late harvest. The result: an Etna Rosso with precise fruit, lively acidity and clear linearity – less volume, more depth. Vinification is classic: spontaneous fermentation with maceration for approx. 30 days, followed by ageing for 24 months in large neutral barrels.

The pure, autochthonous Nerello Mascalese from over 100-year-old (ungrafted) vines in Contrada Rampante on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at an altitude of 950 metres starts with a sparkling ruby-garnet colour and impressively adds a captivating raspberry aroma, followed by fine spicy notes (ginger, allspice, clove). Compact, dense, fully fruity, tannic on the palate, yet always extremely relaxed, elegant and supple. Traces of salt and flint on the finish. Just over 2,000 bottles of this masterpiece are produced every year. SUPERIORE.DE