Limited

A white wine as a final. Production: 500 bottles per vintage. Anyone who only knows San Giovenale from its reds will pause for a moment here – and then realise that this winery has always thought bigger than the obvious answer. The story of "Oro" begins in 2013, not in the vineyard, but in a laboratory. Emanuele Pangrazi collaborated with ARSIAL, the scientific research institute of the Lazio region, to test whether Marsanne and Roussanne – the great white grape varieties of the northern Rhône, home to Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage – could thrive in Tuscia. The result of this experiment was clear: yes. The dry climate of Blera, ventilated by the Tyrrhenian Sea, the heavy clay soils, the altitude – everything fitted. It was the first time that these varieties had ever been planted in Lazio.

In the silent eternity of Calderara Sottana, where time writes its own laws, lies a sanctuary: La Vigna di Don pep. Here, on barely 0.8 hectares of ancient volcanic soil, the vines have performed a miracle: they survived the great catastrophe of phylloxera, which struck the whole of Europe more than a century ago and destroyed millions of vineyards. These few rows of ungrafted Nerello Mascalese vines, which have been rooted in the stony soil of the elliptical terroir since 1880, are living witnesses to over 140 years of viticultural history. They stand there like aged princesses in a royal garden, their charming wrinkles telling of generations that have seen them come and go, while they themselves have remained steadfast. Don pep, the legendary farmer who dedicated 70 years of his life to these precious vines, recognised their extraordinary nature. He nurtured them with infinite devotion, day after day, year after year, as if he knew he was the guardian of a priceless heritage. His love and understanding for these ancient vines saved them from oblivion - and Marco de Grazia honoured this dedication by giving the vineyard his name.

In 2001, the brothers Piero and Lodovico Antinori, together with their nephew Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi, recognised the extraordinary potential of the hills of Bibbona in the upper Maremma. Instinct, passion and centuries of family experience led to a parcel-by-parcel study that would eventually become the birth of Tenuta di Biserno. The terroir of these 40 hectares at an altitude of 90 metres is of extraordinary complexity: mainly alluvial and clay-limestone soils that create the ideal environment for Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The different exposures and the distance from the sea characterise the varietal expression so strongly that the decision in favour of two production lines was obvious: Biserno – the most prestigious and representative wine of the estate – and Il Pino di Biserno.

Biserno is more than just another Bordeaux blend in Tuscany. It is the essence of a place that cannot be tamed, but wants to be understood. Cabernet Franc forms the backbone – a grape variety that develops an unrivalled minerality in these marine soils. Merlot lends a velvety texture, while Cabernet Sauvignon and a hint of Petit Verdot complete the architecture. Every grape harvested by hand, every decision thought through down to the smallest detail by Helena Lindberg and Michel Rolland. 2021 was the year of perfect balance. A mild, wet winter caused the vines to sprout late, while a cool spring delayed development. But when the warmth arrived in late May and early June, life exploded in the vineyards. The summer, warm but not too hot, cool at night due to the salty breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea, created ideal conditions for slow, even ripening. The harvest began early, at the end of August, and extended into October – time enough for each plot to find its perfect moment.

South Tyrol's Chardonnay legend writes another chapter. Since 1994, the Löwengang has characterised the perception of Alpine white wine excellence like no other. The historic estate above Margreids holds a secret: Chardonnay vines, whose roots reach up to five decades deep into the South Tyrolean soil, thrive on barren limestone soils between 230 and 330 metres. The warm microclimate with its nightly drops in temperature produces grapes of concentrated minerality. The Lageder family gives this terroir free rein. Organic farming without compromise, spontaneous fermentation in hand-picked barriques from the Tronçais and Vosges forests. One third new wood lends structure, while eleven months on the lees give the wine its silky texture. A further twelve months of ageing in the cellar bring the final harmony.

A classically composed and perfect introduction to Altare Nebbiolo from its own vineyards in Barolo, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba. With its modern character (use of barriques), the Elio Altare winery has always been one of those producers whose Barolo wines appear less hard and brittle when young and rarely beg for more than 10 years of further ageing in the bottle.

NA for Nals, MA for Margreid. A tribute to two outstanding vineyards where something special can be felt, seen and felt and which have inspired cellar master Harald Schraffl to create something equally special from their grapes. A wine and the essence that expresses the essence of the small parcels in its purest form, whose typicity tells the story of the South Tyrol of tomorrow, a timeless wine with recognition value in an international context.

What comes after perfection? Gianfranco Fino has found an answer. Today, the winemaker cultivates fourteen plots of land around Manduria, each with its own character, each vinified separately. At the end of each vintage, he stands in the cellar between his barriques and tastes. He is not looking for the best – he looks for what touches him most deeply. "Che più ha emozionato", as he calls it. In 2019, there were five barrels that he couldn't let go of. These five barriques come from the estate's oldest vineyard: ninety-year-old Alberello vines, whose gnarled trunks rise barely knee-high from the red clay soil. Four hundred grams of grapes per vine – a blink of an eye yield for an explosion of concentration. After slight over-ripening on the vine, the grapes are harvested by hand, selected again in the cantina and then fermented on the skins for three to four weeks. The wine rests for twelve months in French oak before being bottled. A further forty-eight months of bottle ageing follow before a single bottle leaves the winery.

There are vineyards that are more than just plots of land. They are part of the family history, witnesses to generations who have worked and lived here. Casa pepis one such place: the vineyard directly in front of the winery in Torano Nuovo, 0.8 hectares, which Emidio pepplanted in 1974 with a careful mass selection. Between 1972 and 1974, he grafted the best genetic material he could find on various Montepulciano plots in the region onto rootstock from 1970 – an old technique when there were no nurseries and winegrowers had to master grafting themselves. The result is an extraordinary genetic diversity: under the old pergola, each vine has slightly different leaves, slightly different grapes – and yet, in DNA tests, always Montepulciano. A living archive of this noble grape variety. With a southern exposure and plenty of morning sun, Casa pepbenefits from the silt-dominated soils that give the Montepulciano the fullness and expressiveness that make it the richest and most opulent of the two new single-vineyard wines.

The name already gives away the meaning: "Bepi's red wine", dedicated to Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli, the man who took over his father's winery after the war and led it to worldwide fame. But this wine is not a nostalgic gesture – it is the answer to one of the most difficult questions in viticulture: what does a perfectionist do in a year when nature does not give enough for an Amarone? 2016 was such a year. Cooler conditions, demanding ripeness – not an Amarone vintage by Quintarelli's uncompromising standards. So the family vinified Rosso del Bepi instead, that rare wine that is only produced in such years and shows what great producers can achieve with patience and mastery, even from difficult harvests. The grapes – 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese – are dried as for Amarone. Twenty days of maceration, followed by 45 days of slow fermentation. This is followed by 84 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, seven years of patience.

Named after the quartz speckles in the volcanic porphyry rock of Terlan, the most famous Sauvignon Bianco in Italy lives up to its name. Sparkling yellow-green in colour. Filigree, delicately scented with grapefruit, peach, honey and green papaya. Quartz is taut and precise, with a fleshy, creamy texture, great depth and a wonderful mineral-salty finish. Must have and must taste! SUPERIORE.DE

Sometimes a vineyard reveals secrets that have been hidden beneath the surface for millions of years. When Antonio Moretti Cuseri acquired the plot north of Via Bolgherese, he had no idea that his vines would drive their roots through an extraordinary layer of clay – a fossilised seabed from prehistoric times that gives the Cabernet Franc a mineral depth that can only be found in a few places in the world. With the first vintage of 2020, the third generation of the Moretti Cuseri family created their Bolgheri Superiore – aola di Orma, a tribute to the unique terroir expression that has made the estate an icon among Tuscany's coastal wines. On a south-west-facing single vineyard of just a few hectares, 15 to 20-year-old vines are cultivated organically. The speciality: 85 percent Cabernet Franc forms the backbone of this cuvée, supplemented by just 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon – a bold departure from the Merlot-dominated classics of Bolgheri. The constant sea breeze ensures ideal ripening conditions and prevents the herbaceous notes that Cabernet Franc can often develop in cooler climates.

Tenuta Tignanello is located in the heart of Chianti Classico on the gentle hills between the valleys of the Greve and Pesa rivers and comprises 319 hectares of land, of which around 130 are planted with vines. The estate's vineyards include two jewels: Tignanello and Solaia, which are located on the same hill, on calcareous and schistose marl soils of marine origin from the Pliocene, and which benefit from warm days and fresh nights during the growing season. Two wines are produced from these vineyards, which many years ago had the potential to become the starting point of the Italian wine renaissance. Nothing has changed to this day.

"Ruby red with bright reflections. The nose delights with a bouquet of floral notes: Mauve, hibiscus and hollyhocks are surrounded by fruity cherries and preserved raspberries and spicy aromas of black pepper, cedar and juniper berries. The red fruit is underpinned by dark aromatics and vegetal notes of redcurrant and blackberry leaves. Initially subtle on the palate until it brings out the iron fist in a velvet glove. The gentle attack calmly builds up immense pressure with great inner tension on the mid palate. The extract-sweet fruit of cherries and a fine core of sloes mingle with marzipan and noble bitter notes of the ripe tannins, which give it additional length. The exemplary use of wood sets the scene for exactly what characterises a Barbaresco: Concentration with simultaneous lightness and transparency." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

"From the very first moments of fermentation of this wine, we realise every year that we are dealing with a very high expression of Nebbiolo. The MGA Albesani is a very beautiful vineyard in the municipality of Neive with ideal exposure and perfect altitude. From there comes a rich, elegant, sometimes austere wine that combines its great appeal with excellent ageing potential." Franco Massolino

There are vintages that change a winery forever. 2016 was such a turning point for Sottimano. After years of meticulous, consistent biodynamic work in the vineyards, Andrea Sottimano reached a point this year where cru and terroir expressed themselves with a clarity and precision that he had never experienced before. The decision to create a Riserva was not a continuation of tradition – previously, old vines from Pajoré and Cottà had been combined for this purpose –but a new beginning, a return to the pure terroir of a single vineyard: Currá. Andrea selected the best grapes for this premium selection from the oldest plots of this legendary 2.8-hectare cru in Neive, where 55 to 75-year-old Nebbiolo vines sink their roots deep into pure limestone. Only 3,000 bottles were intended to tell the story of this exceptional vintage – of a wine that combines complexity, elegance and richness like no other in the portfolio. The Riserva matures for 22 to 24 months in barrels, partly on the fine lees, before being bottled unfiltered and unfined and left to rest in the bottle for a few more years.

Albesani leaves nothing to be desired, in expression and character it is simply grandiose. The fresh bouquet of flowers, chalk, tobacco and cherries continues on the palate, where a beguilingly silky tannin and aromatic intensity virtually rob the senses. A masterpiece from Luca Roagna! SUPERIORE.DE

With a few hours in the air, Albesani begins to reveal the inner sweetness and fragrance so typical of wines from this Neive vineyard. Sweet dried cherries, rose petals, kirsch, cinnamon, orange peel and sweet tobacco open up with a little coaxing. Albesani clearly has a lot to offer for those who can wait for the initially prominent tannins to soften. SUPERIORE.DE

"The 2020 Vigna La Casaccia from the vineyard of the same name in the Cru Canalicchio is the wine that reflects the characteristics of this vineyard planted in 1990. Vigna Casaccia, thanks to its calcareous clay soils, enhances the sweetness of the tannin, its silkiness and its gradual relaxation, emphasised in the 2020 vintage by a mineral and fresh contrast." Francesco Ripaccioli

Gallina comes from a steep, sandy vineyard, similar to the Asili site, but with less lime content, which gives it more roundness and fullness. Full bouquet of sweet tobacco, cedar, liquorice and dried herbs. A soft, sweet, red fruit combines in an exciting way with the typical Roagna austerity on the palate to an impressive complexity and length. It will only reveal its true elegance to us in a few years. SUPERIORE.DE

Rose petals, spices and red-coloured fruit float in the glass, supported by fine, racy tannins. On the palate, the typical, medium-bodied characteristics of Bricco delle Viole are evident, while the contours are soft and the wine's personality demands the next sip. Vajra fans should give it a few more years to mature, despite its current accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

"Our 2020 Vigna Montosoli is the wine that tells the story of the characteristics of this splendid and unique hillside, characterised by verticality, minerality and juiciness, length and depth, but also by a more pronounced tannic structure, thanks to its more galestro and mineral soils: The 2020 vintage also reinforces its aromatic, floral and enveloping complexity." Francesco Ripaccioli

The grapes for Terlan's Ikonen wine come from vineyards at an altitude of 300 to 550 metres with volcanic porphyry rock. Powerful, attractively exotic bouquet with bright gooseberries, mango and pink grapefruit, backed by a captivating mineral flavour. There is also lemongrass and herbal, ethereal notes. On the palate, it is juicy and full-bodied, but not overloaded, instead deeply spicy, smoky, with a mineral-salty structure, followed by green-herbal notes in the focussed, mineral final. Every year, Quarz is one of the best Italian Sauvignon Blancs in its full splendour. As always, Cantina Terlano shows a skilful winemaker's hand in guiding the natural flavours of the grape, but also in delivering a very elegant interpretation. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wines already bear their character in their name. Alteni di Brassica: it sounds like old stone walls, like the cool wind that blows through the hills of the Barbaresco region, like wild herbs that grow in the gardens between the vines. And indeed, this Sauvignon Blanc from Angelo Gaja tells exactly that: not of the exoticism of the grape variety, but of the landscape from which it comes.