Carricante

At the heart of the north-eastern Etna amphitheatre, where Silvia Maestrelli's vision turned to stone, lies Fessina: a name that sounds like a whisper through the volcanic winds. Here, in the Frazione Rovittello of Castiglione di Sicilia, between two ancient lava flows from 1809 and 1911, a dream came true in 2007. Silvia, the pioneer – a Tuscan with a Milanese soul and a Sicilian heart – was the first woman on the volcano to recognise the extraordinary potential of this difficult, masculine earth. With the tenacity of a visionary and the sensitivity of a "female oenological vision", she created a refuge of excellence after long negotiations with the countless owners of the fragmented plots.

Here is one of the most beautiful interpretations of the white Carricante grape variety, matured for six months on the fine lees. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at an altitude of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock that is rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunlight and strong day-night fluctuations, characterises this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is matured purely in stainless steel in order to bring the purity of the grape variety and the terroir unadulterated into the glass.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

100% Carricante from one of the youngest and most promising cru sites on the northern Etna slope: Contrada Taccione is located around 700 metres above sea level in Castiglione di Sicilia, characterised by volcanic sand, basalt rock and millennia-old ash. It is a landscape in motion, shaped by lava, wind and time. It is precisely this tension between barrenness and energy that Planeta translates here into a wine that seems to be made for quiet tones.

An island within the island. This is what Giuseppe Benanti called Etna, the world he opened up for himself in 1988 as a pioneer of modern Etna wines. Today, his sons Antonio and Salvino are continuing his legacy as the only winery with vineyards on all four slopes of the volcano. The Etna Bianco combines 100% Carricante from the eastern and southern slopes, where altitudes between 700 and 950 metres, volcanic sandy soils and pronounced day-night fluctuations create ideal conditions. The 20 to 60-year-old vines grow partly as traditional Alberello, partly on trellis wire. Hand-picked in mid-October, gently pressed, fermented for twelve days at 18 °C in stainless steel with the estate's own Carricante yeast selected from Etna vineyards. Maturation on fine lees and brief rest in the bottle.

This single-varietal Carricante from Tenuta Tascante comes from the districts of Feudo in Castiglione di Sicilia and Salice in Milo. The vineyards grow at an altitude of 600 metres on the north side of Mount Etna on volcanic sedimentary soils from different eras. The majority of the grapes grow on a terrace in Contrada Sciaranuova. Vinified in cool stainless steel, this white wine retains the mineral clarity and sulphurous notes of the indigenous grape variety. Linear and vertical, it presents itself with the characteristic acidity of Carricante, showing volcanic vigour in elegant purity. An authentic Etna character with four months of ageing on the lees that brings the aura of the volcano directly into the glass. SUPERIORE.DE

Carricante from Planeta's Etna vineyard is an exceptional wine full of freshness, energy and minerality. This noble grape variety thrives in exclusive conditions, on volcanic soils and at altitudes of 870 metres. A wonderfully complex pleasure that is only ever released for sale two years after the harvest. The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. SUPERIORE.DE

Solicchiata is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna, where the volcano still gives everything to its soil – minerality, warmth, tension – without imposing the glowing ripeness of the southern flank. The Faro family founded Pietradolce here in 2005, on 35 hectares between 600 and 900 metres above sea level. The credo: exclusively indigenous varieties, separate vinification of the individual vineyards, as little intervention as possible. The Etna Bianco is the gateway to this universe – and at the same time an unequivocal commitment. 100 per cent Carricante, Alberello, 800 metres above sea level. Sandy volcanic soils, rich in minerals. Hand-picked in the second half of October, when the long, cool nights on the northern slope have given the acidity its final touch. Gentle pressing, ageing exclusively in steel. No wood, no distraction.

Donnafugata's impressive declaration of love to Etna, currently the hottest wine hotspot, began with the Sul Vulcano line. Carricante is one of the most exciting grape varieties in southern Italy, capable of complexity and terroir-driven expression in the right soils. The vines for Donnafugata's only white wine from Etna grow on volcanic soils rich in minerals at an altitude of 700-750 metres. The wine is fermented in steel tanks before maturing partly in concrete tanks and partly in second and third choice barriques for 10 months and then a further nine months in the bottle.

Etna Bianco is smoky in the glass and excites the senses with a burst of crushed rock and raw almonds before fading into a citrus-influenced peach. It is pleasantly soft and enveloping, with weighty textures supported by lively acidity. Mineral fruits and sweet spices meet on the palate. Finishes remarkably fresh yet grippy and long, leaving the mouth wanting more. The complexity of this wine is unrivalled for an entry-level Etna Bianco. SUPERIORE.DE

For many, Carricante is inextricably linked with Etna. But with Carjcanti, Gulfi shows that this grape variety can also develop its very own, characterful profile in the south-eastern hinterland of Chiaramonte Gulfi on calcareous and clayey soils at an altitude of around 600 metres. Organic cultivation, hand-picking in the cool morning hours and gentle ageing in stainless steel tanks followed by six months of storage on the fine lees – accompanied by regular bâtonnage – ensure complexity, texture and freshness at the same time.

Animalucente consists mainly of Carricante from 70-100 year old vines, some of which are still ungrafted. Shiny, ethereal and extravagant in the glass, the bright colour is reminiscent of a lava flow in a wild and romantic setting. The palate is extremely flavoursome, vertical, with a tangy acidity and creaminess that makes you want to drink the next glass. Animalucente is a strong, forward and very authentic Etna wine and the perfect fusion of heaven and earth. SUPERIORE.DE

A sparkling wine from the volcano – made from 100% Carricante and produced using the traditional bottle fermentation method, this Metodo Classico is an expression of the cool elegance of Etna. The grapes come from high-altitude, mineral-rich vineyards on the northern slopes of the volcano. After gentle pressing and vinification in stainless steel, the base wine matures on the lees for around 20 months before disgorgement. Pale straw yellow in the glass with a fine, continuous perlage. The bouquet is fragrant and precise, with notes of lime, white peach, brioche, crushed rock and a hint of aniseed. Clear, taut and cool on the palate, with lively acidity, a creamy texture and a fine, salty-mineral length that emphasises its volcanic origins. An enthralling spumante with character, far removed from broadness or trendy sweetness – ideal as an aperitif, with oysters, raw fish or fine Mediterranean cuisine. This Carricante proves that sparkling wine from the slopes of Mount Etna is not only possible, but fascinating. SUPERIORE.DE

The four wines resulting from the collaboration between Dolce & Gabbana and Donnafugata show attention to detail and unconditional love for Sicily. They are the perfect expression of two top companies "Made in Italy". They represent the aesthetic fusion of craftsmanship, creativity and Sicilian passion. Together, they have created a unique collection of wines and packaging that emotionally capture Sicilian culture and lifestyle and express a clear commitment to the beauty and tradition of Sicily.

Proud single-vineyard Sicilian in a small edition made from 100% Carricante. Fine bouquet of citrus fruits and apricots. Wonderfully juicy fruit on the palate paired with good structure, balanced acidity, fine minerality and appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

High up on the southern slopes of Mount Etna, where the Contrada Manzuedda in Biancavilla rises 900 metres into the sky, lies an extraordinary vineyard, as old as the dreams that gave birth to it. Here, between the eternal snow of the peaks and the flames of the volcano, where the first Carricante vines sank their roots into the volcanic earth in 1950, A' Puddara, "the hen", is born. This is what the Sicilians call the Pleiades in dialect, the seven sisters in the firmament that shine from the sea above the volcanic peak in summer. Silvia Maestrelli, the visionary pioneer of Fessina who sadly died far too early, dedicated the starry sky of her Sicilian nights to this wine, a fitting tribute to this island of dreams and fire.

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

In 2002, Benanti dared to do the unthinkable: a Metodo Classico from pure Carricante – the first ever bottle fermentation from Etna from this noble indigenous grape variety. What was then an experiment is now a reference: hardly any other Sicilian sparkling wine comes close to the perlage quality of this house. The grapes come from the eastern and southern slopes of the volcano, where 20 to 60-year-old vines are rooted between 700 and 850 metres in mineral-rich volcanic sands – partly as traditional Alberello, partly on the trellis. Hand-picked, gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at 16–18 °C in stainless steel. The wine rests on the fine lees until late spring, followed by bottle fermentation with selected yeasts. After 24 months on the lees, disgorgement and dosage take place; a further three months of rest complete the maturation.

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco is allowed to be bottled as Superiore – and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like small trees on chestnut wood poles. The eastern exposure and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and a white wine with an aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Etna. More floral and citrus-scented on the nose than the normal Carricante, the Superiore also has a little more body, acidity, depth and finesse. The elegant acidity makes it vibrantly fresh and long and ensures an exciting drinking flow and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

It was 2007 when Marc de Grazia tasted a 42-year-old Carricante for the first time – and that moment changed everything. Three different occasions, three different bottles, but always the same revelation: a wine of such impeccable beauty and youthful vigour despite its venerable age that the Etna pioneer knew immediately: he wanted to create a wine like this himself. This vision gave rise to Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito, a homage to the past and at the same time a manifesto for the future. In the Contrada Santo Spirito, at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Carricante vines thrive on deep black volcanic soil, rich in ash from past eruptions. Here, where for centuries only red grapes were cultivated, Marc dared to do the seemingly impossible: world-class, single-varietal white crus.

This single-vineyard Carricante comes from the small Montalto vineyard on the southern slope of Etna at an altitude of around 950 metres. It is the most balanced and at the same time most exciting of all Etna Bianco from Terre Nere in terms of its overall impression and flavour; the whole Etna package is present here in exactly the right dose: Minerality, salinity, fruitiness and a perfect hint of orange peel and flint on the nose. On the palate, it is vibrant and fine, with an almost Burgundian dimension, full of finesse and length. SUPERIORE.DE

While Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Only a few kilometres away, yet geologically different, this contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly next to the winery – and here the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir is revealed. Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures in Calderara Sottana: pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Etna, only three have this pristine geological fingerprint and Calderara is one of them. While the Santo Spirito impresses with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamy and warmer.