VINOUS.COM - Quality Campaign in Veneto

When Eric Guido (Vinous.com) talks about the current status of the Veneto wine region, he rightly calls it "a constant process of development":

"Whether it's Valpolicella, Soave or one of the smaller growing areas in the region, Veneto has undergone enormous change in a seemingly very short period of time - mostly in a positive direction. However, in a region like Valpolicella, where some wines are only released a decade after the grape harvest, these changes have been taking place for much longer than most of us realise.

Winemakers say that the decisions they make are for many years into the future or for the next generation. We are now at a time when ideas that were developed more than a decade ago are finally coming to fruition. I remember tastings almost 20 years ago where much younger versions of the same people I meet with today were talking about a future where Amarone would be brought to the table. Recent tastings have revealed many wines that can do just that. Producers across the region are now focussing on reducing alcohol and residual sugar. Unfortunately, Mother Nature keeps challenging this idea with a series of warm and dry vintages that favour ripeness and concentration. This is certainly not easy. Winemakers don't want to change the principles and traditions of Amarone, their most admired wine, but finding a balance can be a challenge. The best producers have been working towards this goal for many years, and their wines are proof of what is possible.

This is not to say that there is no place for the traditional old-school Amarone, a wine of decadence and celebration - a perfect end to an evening or a wine to drink in front of a crackling fire on a cold night. Many wineries are staying true to tradition and finding a wonderful balance between opulence and complexity in their wines. I don't want these wines to disappear, but I wonder how much room there is for them on the market.

In previous articles about Valpolicella, I have described in detail the difference between the sub-regions of Classico and Valpantena and the valleys of Marcellise, Mezzane, Illasi and Cazzano di Tramigna. Today it is quite clear that each individual area can produce excellent wines. What I am referring to is the gap between the producers who make Amarone in the traditional style (often with 17+% alcohol) and those who aim for 15% alcohol and a sugar content of only 1 to 1.5 grams. The same logic now applies to Valpolicella Superiore. Producers across the region are doing everything they can to elevate this category and show the world that they can make dry red wines without appassimento that convey the terroir. Appassimento was originally invented to make an inferior wine special, but as a result it is no longer a product of nature, but a manufactured wine. While I consider Ripasso to be a happy medium between Amarone and Valpolicella, many winemakers admit that they only make it out of tradition.

This brings us back to the Valpolicella Superiore, which goes beyond the fresh, light and early-drinking versions. They are far more complex and energetic than the "normal" Valpolicellas and are enhanced by the appassimento. The problem is: how can the consumer recognise the difference? The only way for Valpolicella to successfully manage these changes, however positive they may be, is to communicate to consumers what they are buying. Is it an Amarone for the dinner table or for the cheese course? Is it a Valpolicella Superiore for the cellar and contemplation or to drink relaxed on a Tuesday evening with pizza?

But now let's move next door to Soave: like a mirror image of the Valpolicella quality pyramid, the classifications in Soave make a big difference, especially between the Classico zone and the appellation's extended growing areas. The Classico area of Soave comprises high elevations, steep slopes and a mixture of volcanic and densely layered limestone and clay soils known as Scaglia Rossa, and is recognisable at a glance on the map. Outside the Classico area there are foothills with excellent terroir and elevations capable of producing great wines, but most of the DOC Soave consists of plains with alluvial soils rich in clay, sand and limestone. Can you make good wine here? Certainly. But can you also make great wine here? That is questionable. What is certain, however, is that the world has not yet recognised the potential of Soave.

Soave is well on its way to greatness, as the terroir is capable of producing some of the best white wines in Italy. Several renowned producers have already proven what is possible here, and the Consorzio Tutela Vini Soave e Recioto di Soave has taken the trouble to map the region, analyse its soils and identify the best vineyards. The problem is that the name Soave, with its long-standing trademark and past success, guarantees that a producer can sell his wines without bothering to raise them above an average level of quality. As a result, at every tasting of Soave, you find a few outstanding producers pushing their limits amidst a plethora of mediocre producers dragging the reputation of the entire region down with them.

Soave continues to be one of the best sources in Italy for world-class white wines at a reasonable price; the problem is that harvestneed to pay attention to the producer before picking a Soave bottle off the shelf. Every year I find new and exciting projects here that show there is much more to discover. A quality revolution is slowly taking place. In my opinion, Soave is the most underrated white wine in Italy." VINOUS

So much for the current overview of one of Italy's most famous and diverse wine regions. As always, we have put together some of the wines that Eric Guido considers to be outstanding from the Soave Classico, Valpolicella Classico Superiore and, of course, Amarone appellations. We hope you enjoy browsing and discovering! SUPERIORE.DE