Vinous | 95–100 Points

The supremely potent Rocche di Castiglione is often referred to as the first "official" cru in the history of Langa (along with Bussia di Prunotto, both of which were released with the 1961 vintage). It confirms itself once again as the great classic of the house with the 2018 edition. Dark fruits, pressed lilac, blood orange, powdered liquorice, balsamic herbs, spices, iron ore and aniseed fit together perfectly like pieces of a puzzle. Then lush and racy on the palate, with silky tannins and a great depth and resonance that will continue to develop with time. SUPERIORE.DE

Camartina 2016 has exceptional finesse and elegance. Distinguished, deep ruby red. Rich aromas of black and red berries such as black cherry and blueberry, joined by notes of ripe plum and tamarind. With further aeration then multi-layered notes of ivy, forest floor and freshly cut bark with hints of leather, sweet tobacco and liquorice. The full and silky body is framed by firm but well-integrated tannins supported by excellent acidity. Then, just before the long finish, ripe black fruits enriched by nutmeg and sweet spices. Great its Tuscan identity full of energy and liveliness. SUPERIORE.DE

Tenuta Tignanello is located in the heart of Chianti Classico on the gentle hills between the valleys of the Greve and Pesa rivers and comprises 319 hectares of land, of which around 130 are planted with vines. The estate's vineyards include two jewels: Tignanello and Solaia, located on the same hill, on calcareous and schistose marl soils of marine origin from the Pliocene, which benefit from warm days and fresh nights during the growing season. Two wines are produced from these vineyards, which many years ago had the potential to become the starting point of the Italian wine renaissance. Nothing has changed to this day.

The vines cover two hectares directly below the small chapel that gave the wine its name. This is the steepest, oldest part of the estate, where Alessandro Mori heard the bells over the vines as a child. If there is a wine that is to become his legacy, then it must come from here. Brunello Madonna delle Grazie does not appear every year. There was none in 2002 and 2014 – the grapes were not good enough. This decision costs money, but Alessandro Mori has never acted on it. What distinguishes the Madonna from all other Brunellos in the appellation – even from its own basic Brunello – is the vinification. While the classic Il Marroneto is born with fermentation temperatures of up to 40°C and intensive extraction, the Madonna follows the opposite path: two days of rest after the harvest, then cool fermentation at 28°C for three to four weeks. The extraction is gentle, almost tender – more of an infusion than a maceration, closer to Pinot Noir than to classic Sangiovese. Then matured for 40 months in neutral vats.

Tasca d'Almerita recalls the first vintage of their legendary Rosso del Conte from the San Lucio vineyard with this lush Riserva del Conte. Ruby red, the aromas of berries, cherries and spices have wonderfully taken the wood into their midst. A lively taste, dense tannins and an endless finish complete the perfect picture. SUPERIORE.DE

The history of Vite Talin goes back to 1987, when Luciano Sandrone found a vine in one of his vineyards whose grapes were just half the size of the other plants around it. Luciano decided to grow several shoots from this plant and distributed them across three of his vineyards. Today, now in its fourth vintage, Vite Talin is still one of the most spectacular reds in the entire Barolo appellation, with a total production of just 2,000 bottles.

Galatrona is a pure Merlot in a class of its own. Black-red ruby in the glass. On the nose, black berries, fine wood spice and some leather. Very generous fruit aromas and extremely complex on the palate, it glides elegantly into the depths until it is caught by a finely woven tannin and passes into a long and finesse-rich finish. A wine that does not have to hide behind Masseto & Co., on the contrary, for us it has been Italy's Merlot benchmark for years. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that are the result of lengthy soil and climate research, and there are those that are the result of a sudden discovery – a gift of nature to a winegrower who is humble and attentive enough to see the signs. In 1987, when Luciano Sandrone first harvested grapes from the vineyard of the old Natale – called "Talin" – he noticed a single vine that behaved differently from all the others. Small, gnarled grapes with tiny berries, half the size of normal Nebbiolo, of a deep blue, plum-like colour. Thick-skinned, concentrated, with jagged leaves and compact vegetation. Where other winegrowers would have seen a mistake, Luciano recognised a miracle. He labelled the vine, observed it for years, propagated it through field grafting on different sites and began his experiments – for 25 years until DNA analysis in 2017 confirmed what he had always believed: this was a Nebbiolo clone of exceptional qualitative substance.

2020 was the year in which the silence of the vineyards became a calculation. While the world stood still, Montalcino's winegrowers transformed the enforced slowness into precision: vineyard by vineyard, vine by vine, with an attention that other years would not have allowed. At Poggio di Sotto, this benefited a winery that is never in a hurry anyway. The summer of 2020 was hot – no question about it. But Monte Amiata, always vigilant behind the vineyards, moderated with its cool nights. Rain at the end of September, then a long, leisurely autumn with thirty days of marked day-night difference. Poggio di Sotto harvested late, only at the end of September – and took its time. In hot years, the estate characteristically chooses the deeper plots for its Riserva: cooler clay and Galestro, the natural brake against over-ripening. The result is a 2020 that carries the warmth of the vintage without being dominated by it.

The history of Vite Talin goes back to 1987, when Luciano Sandrone found a vine in one of his vineyards whose grapes were just half the size of the other plants around it. Luciano decided to grow several shoots from this plant and distributed them across three of his vineyards. Today, now in its fourth vintage, Vite Talin is still one of the most spectacular reds in the entire Barolo appellation, with a total production of just 2,000 bottles.

"This is one of the 50 wines that have changed Italian wine culture." Gambero Rosso

A Riserva is not created according to plan. It is created when a vintage forces the house to do so – when Leonardo Berti goes into the cellar after a long rest in barrels, listens to the best foudres and decides: this wine needs more time, and it deserves it. 2019 was such a year. Together with 2016, it is considered the benchmark of modern Brunello history – warm, but never too hot, with rain at the right time, a harvest between 5 September and 4 October that Berti describes as almost textbook. Two parcels were chosen for the Riserva, which reflect the terroir of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in all its diversity: Terra Rossa, at 220 metres, with reddish gravel soil rich in minerals and organic matter – structure and depth. Pietranera, the historical place name of the estate, near the Orcia river on pure Galestro – natural yield limitation, river freshness, finesse. Spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, maceration for at least 30 days, then 48 months in 30-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels – almost a year longer than the Annata. Bottled unfiltered. 5,500 bottles.

Deep, dark yellow colour. Rich, almost opulent impressions of candied apricots, orange zest and traces of fine yellow flowers on the nose. Fabulously viscous texture on the palate, multi-layered, very concentrated flavour of candied fruit with a wonderfully polished sweetness. One of Italy's greatest Vin Santo with a long, persistent finish and made to last. SUPERIORE.DE

The world-famous Caiarossa is an extremely exciting blend of the Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Syrah and Alicante varieties, with the rich, dark fruit flavours of the Cabernet grapes taking centre stage. On the nose, a beautiful first wave of dark fruits that never appear too ripe, which greatly benefits the elegance of the wine. The palate is very balanced and focussed with blackberries, cassis and slight hints of salty or rusty minerals. Caiarossa displays a good degree of elegance, not least due to its fine and taut tannins, and despite its density and complexity never comes across as opulent or even overloaded. SUPERIORE.DE

Vanotu is the great single-vineyard Barbaresco of the house – a wine with origin at its core and concentration in its expression. The grapes come from the historic Basarin vineyard in Neive, a cru parcel with south-west exposure and steep limestone marl soils, which not only give the Nebbiolo depth, but also structure and vertical tension. The name "Vanotu" is a dedication to Giovanni (Vanotu) Pelissero, grandfather of the current winemaker – a family foundation to which this wine owes its independence. The wine is matured with sensitivity: around 20 months in barriques, some of which are new, precisely matched to the character of the vintage. No dominant wood notes, but a framework that gives the grape variety space and direction.

The "25 Anni" from Caprai has been THE ambassador for Umbria's top wines for many years. It captivates with a beguiling bouquet that combines black fruits with citrus fruits, exotic spices, a hint of oregano, menthol and a hint of cocoa. The texture is more like pure silk, delicately lapping the palate, leaving a satisfying mix of intense dark fruits, minerals and fine-grained tannin. There is so much depth and concentration to work with that even when it finishes youthfully structured and dry, it lingers for well over a minute with notes of redcurrant, sage and dark chocolate. This exceptional Sagrantino is undisputedly not only Caprai's top wine, but also one of Italy's most characterful wines, which, with a little more ageing, is an incredible pleasure and should therefore definitely be aerated for 3-4 hours when young. SUPERIORE.DE

After much anticipation, today we present the second vintage of an exceptional Sangiovese from Querciabella's single vineyard Ruffoli.

Back in 2007, the winery embarked on the cru project with the aim of emphasising the natural elegance and vitality of Sangiovese and the essential value of what the Latins call the "genius loci". What began as an experiment and a challenge evolved into years of constant but calculated work to identify the best vineyards in Chianti Classico. The best winemaking and ageing methods were then applied to enhance the particular influence of the origin on the texture, flavour and character of the wine.

Every year, the grapes for Solaia come from the sunniest corner of the vineyard of the same name on Antinori's Tenuta Tignanello estate. Solaia 2020 has a silky and elegant personality, the bouquet alone is fascinating. Bright and full of energy, it captures all the elegance of the vintage. Solaia 2020 is characterised by purity and focus of the fruit, with black plum, cassis, blue flowers, pencil shavings and plenty of sweet spice from the oak, reminiscent of cloves and toasted almonds. Medium-bodied on the palate with exceptional balance and beauty. Solaia becomes more elegant and aristocratic from year to year. SUPERIORE.DE

Every year, the grapes for Solaia come from the sunniest corner of the vineyard of the same name on Antinori's Tenuta Tignanello estate. Aromas of cassis, warm spices and camphor characterise the nose. The lively, linear palate shows great finesse and offers cranberries, blueberries and crushed mint alongside white pepper. It is supple and balanced, with bright acidity and polished tannins. For us, one of the best vintages ever! SUPERIORE.DE

The PS comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in the oldest part of the Pelagrilli vineyards in the north-east of Montalcino and is only produced in small quantities in the very best vintages. Rich and intoxicating in the glass. It exudes a captivating blend of plum sauce, grilled sage, crushed stones and a pinch of savoury spices. Its velvety, almost creamy texture soothes the palate as it introduces a wave of ripe red and black fruits, complicated by salty mineral tones that add an almost crunchy feel towards the finish. It remains structured and youthfully dry, with superfine tannins that saturate, along with a tart concentration of wild berries and subtle nuances of tangerine. SUPERIORE.DE

At the heart of the Bricco Boschis lies a plot of just 2.38 hectares, which is considered the noblest corner of one of the most famous crus in the entire Barolo region: Vigna San Giuseppe. Here, on a medium slope with an ideal south-eastern exposure, 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines are rooted in the geological wonder that has shaped Cavallotto's wines for almost a century. It is the essence of Piedmontese winemaking, condensed into a few square metres – a monument to patience that is only vinified as a Riserva in the very best vintages. Good to know: The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic in recent history – a year that revived the great traditions of Barolo. Vigna San Giuseppe combines all the virtues of Bricco Boschi in its purest form: The complex geology of calcareous marl and layers of sand, the perfect drainage of the steep slopes, the unique microclimate that combines warm days with cool nights. The 60-year-old vines have sunk their roots deep into these ancient sea beds and produce grapes of exceptional concentration and elegance. The long ageing period – almost twice as long as the "normal" Bricco Boschis – gives the wine that unrivalled complexity and harmony that makes it one of the great Barolo wines of our time.

In the crypt of a 14th century church, deep beneath the altar of the small San Niccolò chapel, the flagship of Castellare is maturing. Here, where monks once prayed, another act of devotion takes place today – the transformation of grapes into a wine that has inspired international critics for over four decades. I Sodi di San Niccolò is more than just a name; it is the essence of Tuscan wine mysticism. "Sodi" – is what the Tuscan farmers called those hard, stony soils that were too heavy for a team of oxen and could only be worked by hand. These barren, calcareous Galestro soils force the vines to fight for every molecule of water and every nutrient. On these inhospitable slopes, which form a natural amphitheatre around the estate, Paolo Panerai cultivated a vision in the 1970s: to create a wine with exclusively indigenous grape varieties that could compete with any international Supertuscan.

"This is our flagship wine, a Barolo recognised the world over, which we have always nourished and cared for with greatest respect. Nothing will change. This is why I will dedicate this special wine to my grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. From now on, it will carry their names." Luciano Sandrone on his intention to rename his world-famous Barolo Cannubi Boschis "Aleste" with the 2013 vintage.