Montepulciano

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

Owner Leonardo Pinzolo cultivates 52 hectares of biodynamically certified vineyards on his family farms in Popoli and Capestrano. The soils here differ from those in the rest of Abruzzo. Combined with the higher altitude of the vineyards and the proximity to the Gran Sasso mountains, these wines have a decidedly cooler expression than is usually found in Abruzzo. In the winery, fermentations are spontaneous and without temperature control. With the exception of a few single-vineyard wines, most of the wines are matured in stainless steel.

Steep cliffs, gentle slopes of calcareous clay soil, the rough blue of the Adriatic Sea just above the vines ... welcome to the Conero, one of the most renowned terroirs in the Marche region! From the heart of this landscape comes Cùmaro, a passionately cultivated, richly structured Montepulciano that Umani Ronchi has been vinifying as a Riserva since the mid-1980s. In the glass, it presents a dark ruby colour with a purple hue. The bouquet is intense and multi-layered: ripe plum, blackcurrant and cassis intertwine with notes of black pepper, vanilla and fine tobacco – all in a powerful, spicy frame. The palate is characterised by dense concentration while remaining warm and enveloping. Smooth, integrated tannins carry the broodingfruit flavour, which glides into a long, elegant finish – with hints of chocolate and spicy dryness.

Garofoli was the first winery in the Marche region to venture the experiment of creating a Metodo Classico exclusively from Montepulciano grapes – a daring innovation that is now considered the jewel in the crown of the winery. Originating from the hills around Castelfidardo, the hand-picked Montepulciano grapes undergo careful vinification according to the classic method. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, where the spumante matures on the yeasts for between 24 and 30 months – a period of silent transformation that gives it its characteristic creaminess and complexity. This limited production reflects Garofoli's commitment to quality over quantity.

In the top "San Clemente" line, Zaccagnini takes Montepulciano from Abruzzo to a new level - towards origin, depth and maturity. The 2019 Riserva comes from the Terre di Casauria DOC area, one of the most characterful zones in the region, located between the Majella massif and the Adriatic coast. The vineyards there are located on calcareous and clayey slopes with good drainage and ideal exposure - a terroir that gives the Montepulciano structure, density and balance. The 2019 vintage was selectively harvested, fermented on the skins at a controlled temperature and then matured for around 24 months in a combination of barriques and large wooden barrels. The use of wood remains discreet, accompanying but not dominating.

Zanna comes from old vineyards in the best locations around Controguerra. Temperature-controlled fermentation is followed by around two years of ageing in large oak barrels and barriques. Deep ruby red colour in the glass. Black cherry, dried plums, liquorice, leather, tobacco and spices on the nose. Dense on the palate, with ripe fruit, grippy tannins and a long, slightly balsamic finish. A Riserva with a classic style and great development potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Don Luigi Riserva is the distinctive flagship of Di Majo Norante – named after the patriarch of the winery and an expression of deep respect for origin, tradition and passion. Only the ripest Montepulciano grapes are selected from the Contrada Camarda near Ramitello, around 100 - 150 metres above sea level on soils rich in limestone and clay. The wine is produced after a long maceration period and then matures for 12–18 months in French barriques, followed by several months of rest in the bottle – a process that produces both concentration and this impressive harmony.

Impressive Riserva from high-altitude vineyards, where Montepulciano produces ripe and expressive grapes despite the Alpine altitude. The 2020 vintage was characterised by warm days, cool nights and healthy ripeness - ideal conditions for a structured Riserva with depth. After classic mash fermentation, the wine matured for around 18 months in large wooden barrels and then in steel to gain strength and retain freshness. Dense ruby colour with a strong core in the glass. The nose reveals aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, some plum and sweet spicy notes such as liquorice, tobacco and dark chocolate. The tannin is present and fine-meshed, the acidity clear and invigorating. On the palate, the wine is powerful but not broad - with Mediterranean flavours, mineral depth and a long, spicy finish. A self-confident Montepulciano that speaks of its origins and has a lot of style: structured, dense and yet with elegant guidance - a Riserva with charisma and harmony. SUPERIORE.DE

Ramitello is unjustly overshadowed by Contado. Yet it is a potential favourite red wine that perfectly embodies the intensity of southern Molise. Made from 80% Montepulciano and 20% Aglianico, Ramitello matures for around 18 months, partly in barriques and partly in stainless steel tanks, followed by around six months of bottle ageing. In the glass, it has a deep ruby colour with violet reflections. The bouquet is brooding and complex: ripe plum and blackberry combine with spicy notes of leather, liquorice, eucalyptus and a hint of coffee. The palate shows excellent balance: dense fruit, structured, grippy tannins and a long, fruit-accentuated finish that is characterised by tension and naturalness. This wine epitomises the authentic power of Molise – unaffected, terroir-precise and at the same time impressively harmonious. SUPERIORE.DE

Düsseldorf, ProWein, 1997: Two men meet between the trade fair stands and tasting zones: Stefano Inama, who has given Garganega white wines a new dignity in Soave, and Sabatino Di Properzio, who is in the process of leading Fattoria La Valentina out of the shadow of Abruzzese mass production. What begins as an industry skirmish turns into a friendship – and an idea that Inama formulates with a joke: "Montepulciano is the Barolo of the south. We should do something together." Sabatino's answer, without hesitation: "Facciamo." Three years later, the two buy a vineyard in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore at a forced sale that nobody wants. 4.2 hectares at an altitude of 350 metres, completely south-facing, at the foot of the Majella National Park – and planted with an ancient Montepulciano clone that was abandoned long ago due to its low yields. The grapes form two-lobed panicles reminiscent of the silhouette of the African continent: the "Clone Africa". Small-berried, thick-skinned, with a concentration that more modern clones cannot match. The vines, now over fifty years old, are rooted in loamy mid-mountain soil under the traditional Abruzzese pergola – and yield just 45 quintals per hectare.

Bellovedere is one of La Valentina's iconic wines: Pure Montepulciano from the single vineyard of the same name in the Terre dei Vestini subzone, vinified only in exceptional vintages. 2021 was one such vintage: harmonious weather conditions with cool nights and a healthy harvest resulted in grapes with structure, depth and great aromatic balance. Fermentation takes place over 30 days in conical wooden fermenters, with ageing in a combination of barriques, tonneaux and cement – a finely balanced style between concentration and finesse.

The small 2-hectare Sant'Eusanio vineyard is located approximately 500 metres above sea level in the highest zone of the entire Valle-Reale area. What distinguishes this vineyard from the others in Popoli is its northern exposure and the temperature differences between day and night, which can reach the lowest temperatures in the valley. These factors lead to extreme microclimatic conditions under which the grapes of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Sant'Eusanio ripen, making it a unique wine. It is an uncompromising expression of Montepulciano from the mountains and speaks a dynamic language of acidity and freshness that contrasts sharply with the body and structure of the wines grown in the coastal zone of the region.

The Popoli vineyard bears witness to the fact that the Valle Reale plateau has been a wine-growing area since time immemorial. Several rows of this vineyard stretch out in front of the ruins of a cave cellar dating back to 1300. This is where the Benedictine monks from the monastery of San Benedetto in Perillis produced and stored their wine. The larger part of this very old site, where Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is cultivated, extends southwards towards the entrance to the valley.

The Montepulciano vines for this powerful and terroir-rich Montepulciano grow on the Campo San Giorgio vineyard at an altitude of about 150 m on deep, chalky clay soils. The wine is unfiltered and unfined and matures for 12 months in small and large wooden barrels. The label represents the historic design of the Rosso Conero of the 1970s and the impressive result is the calling card of a long family tradition and expertise in viticulture.

Pieluni is Illuminati's flagship wine - a single-varietal Montepulciano made from selected grapes from old vines in the highest parcels of the Colline Teramane. The exceptional 2017 vintage was characterised by heat, drought and low yields, but produced concentrated, healthy berries with a dense tannin structure. Fermentation was followed by careful ageing in new and used barriques for 24 months, followed by long bottle ageing.

Deep dark ruby red. Full, deep and explosive bouquet reminiscent of dark berries, tobacco and liquorice. Illuminati's single-vineyard classic Zanna, with its elegant, very complex taste and delicate oak spice, leaves nothing to be desired every year. SUPERIORE.DE

The 4.5-hectare Convento (di Capestrano) vineyard is the youngest cru within the vineyards of the municipality of Capestrano. It extends over the higher part of the land where vines and vegetables were once grown and which belonged to the old convent of St Francis, which has stood on a hill overlooking the small village of Capestrano since the mid XV century. The microclimate, which is so different from that of the plateau, has two important consequences: A harvest that takes place on average two to three weeks earlier, depending on the year, and the result is a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that stands out from the crus of other farms in terms of its vigour and concentration.

The extremely successful "Binomio" joint venture between Fattoria La Valentina and Azienda Agricola Inama is entering a new round. On the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the La Valentina winery, a new wine was born, which is only produced in the best vintages and in limited small editions.

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.

Just 300 metres from Casa pepand yet a completely different world: Branella, 2 hectares acquired by Emidio pepin 1981 – a vineyard that had already been planted in 1966 and was registered in the 1984 land register. The south-western orientation differs from Casa pepdirect southern exposure, and while silt dominates there, Branella shows an extraordinary geological diversity within the plot: In the northern, higher part, classic "speckled" blue-toned marl, in the centre a pronounced sandy zone with a lower, almost neutral pH, underneath deeper deposits of clay and calcium carbonate. The sandier, cooler soils allow the roots to penetrate deeply, while the mottled lenses of precipitated limestone create a different perception of acidity and freshness. Chiara pepand geologist Brenna Quigley realised in their multi-year study that these terroir-related differences justify vinifying Branella as a wine in its own right – a wine that does not possess the exuberant power of Casa pep, but rather agility, precision and a faster rhythm.

Where the 2021 Branella was characterised by vigorous vegetative development and the saving summer rains, the 2022 shows the finesse and elegance of a vintage that has found exceptional refinement through later pruning and slower, controlled development. The sandier soils of Branella with their cooler temperatures, the speckled lenses of limestone that create different perceptions of acidity, and the deeper root systems that allow the vines to find nutrients even in difficult moments – all these factors come together in this vintage to create a wine that impresses not with its power, but with its precision, clarity and almost dancing lightness.

There are vineyards that are more than just plots of land. They are part of the family history, witnesses to generations who have worked and lived here. Casa pepis one such place: the vineyard directly in front of the winery in Torano Nuovo, 0.8 hectares, which Emidio pepplanted in 1974 with a careful mass selection. Between 1972 and 1974, he grafted the best genetic material he could find on various Montepulciano plots in the region onto rootstock from 1970 – an old technique when there were no nurseries and winegrowers had to master grafting themselves. The result is an extraordinary genetic diversity: under the old pergola, each vine has slightly different leaves, slightly different grapes – and yet, in DNA tests, always Montepulciano. A living archive of this noble grape variety. With a southern exposure and plenty of morning sun, Casa pepbenefits from the silt-dominated soils that give the Montepulciano the fullness and expressiveness that make it the richest and most opulent of the two new single-vineyard wines.

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.