Marsala

I.P – two letters that mean a lot in the Marsala Codex: Italia Particolare, the traditional quality mark for Marsala, to which mosto cotto – cooked grape must – is added. It gives the wine its characteristic depth, its amber colour and that warm sweetness that is never overpowering. Pellegrino produces this Fine from Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, the classic triumvirate of grape varieties from western Sicily, and ages it in oak for at least twelve months. Not a vintage, not a Riserva, but an honest, everyday Marsala with genuine origins.

Marsala dry – that still sounds like a surprise to many. Yet dryness was the norm for a long time: before sweetness and flavour additives degraded most Marsala to a kitchen commodity, it was a serious, dry liqueur wine. Pellegrino is a reminder of this. The "Old Marsala" in its new, dry interpretation is superlative quality: 24 months in wooden barrels, Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from western Sicily. No mosto cotto, no sweetening – the wine is left to its own devices, works oxidatively, develops depth.

The general is said to have been a teetotaller. Until he drank Marsala. The story may be legend – this wine has earned its name since 1862, when Giuseppe Garibaldi landed in Marsala with his troops and discovered the sweetness that won him over. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, the classic triad of western Sicily. After the infusion and addition of mosto cotto, the Garibaldi Dolce matures for 24 months in large oak barrels – twice as long as the Fine, with correspondingly more depth and concentration.

The Inghams came to Sicily in pairs. Benjamin first – in 1806, with the instinct of an entrepreneur. Then, in 1819, his uncle Joseph followed: not to inherit, but to help, to build, to expand. Together they created a trading empire that Marsala shipped all over the world with their fleet. Pellegrino remembers them both – "BIP" for Benjamin, "Uncle Joseph" for the uncle who came when he was needed. And the wine? An outsider among the Marsala types – and that's exactly what makes it interesting. 100% Nero d'Avola, from loamy soils in the Trapesi countryside around Mazara del Vallo, harvested in the second decade of September when fully ripe. Cold maceration, then fermentation stopped with an acquavite matured in oak for at least five years – the depth begins here. 24 months of ageing in French Allier oak barrels give the Rubino structure and that velvety texture that makes Nero d'Avola so unmistakable.

Three letters, a whole story: BIP stands for "Benjamin Ingham Palermo". The Englishman came to Sicily in 1806 – not as a tourist, but as an entrepreneur with vision. He followed in the footsteps of John Woodhouse, but surpassed him by far: Ingham built up a trading empire that shipped Marsala all over the world and left a lasting mark on the city. Pellegrino still preserves his archive today – 110 volumes of Sicilian economic history. Pellegrino dedicates its elegant Oro Riserva to this man. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, from sandy coastal soils between Marsala and Petrosino. The fermentation is stopped with an acquavite aged in oak for at least five years – a detail that stacks depth upon depth. Then: more than 48 months in large oak barrels, a further six months in barriques. The 2013 is a wine that has clearly benefited from time.

The year is 1773 and a storm drives the English merchant ship "Elizabeth" into the harbour of Marsala. John Woodhouse, a merchant from Liverpool, seeks shelter – and finds a wine in an osteria that won't let him go. To stabilise it for the long journey home, he fortifies it with Acquavite. A makeshift solution that establishes the history of an entire wine. Pellegrino, the centrepiece of the Marsala tradition since 1880, has dedicated its own cuvée to this far-sighted Englishman. "Old John" – respect in two words. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia, harvested in the hinterland between Marsala and Mazara del Vallo, are fortified with neutral alcohol after fermentation has stopped and topped with mosto cotto – grape must – flavoured and slightly sweetened. Then comes the time: at least 48 months in large oak barrels and a further six months in barriques. The 1998 is a true Riserva – not a vintage for the impatient.

This intense and long-lasting Marsala matures for 5 years according to the soleras method in barrels of 50-100 hl. These lie on top of each other, as in sherry production, and the contents of the different barrels and vintages sorted by tiers are regularly blended together. In this way, the older Marsala gives the younger one its softness and maturity, while the younger portion adds freshness and fruitiness.

Vergine – this is not a style statement, this is a philosophy. No cooked must, no sweetening, no flavour additives. Just wine, alcohol and the quiet labour of time in oak wood. What ends up in the bottle is the result of radical reduction – and therein lies the greatness of this category. The 2000 vintage – then still young in the barrels of Pellegrino's historic winery in the heart of Marsala – spent more than a decade in large oak barrels of between 30 and 80 hectolitres. No haste, no intervention. The oxidation process is slow, controlled and precise. Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolia from the westernmost tip of Sicily – soils over which the salt of the nearby Stagnone lagoon still lingers in the air.