While Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the wine world, Italy is celebrating a quiet revolution: Cabernet Franc, the genetic mother of its famous relative, is becoming a shining soloist. The centuries-old grape variety from the Loire Valley is developing a fascinating expressiveness and diversity in Italy that not only delights us, but wine lovers worldwide.
Cabernet Franc is the more elegant, multi-layered sister of Cabernet Sauvignon. Less powerful, but all the more nuanced, its flavour alternates between blackcurrant, violet, green pepper and mineral notes. In cooler locations, this grape variety shines with a surprisingly herbaceous freshness, in warmer regions with a wonderfully velvety depth and ripe fruit flavours.
The Italian Cabernet Franc renaissance has two centres: Alpine Friuli and the Tuscan coast. In Friuli-Venezia Giulia, elegant mineral wines with smoky accents reminiscent of the great Loire crus are produced. However, the variety is most spectacularly successful in Bolgheri and Maremma, where sea breezes and Tuscan hills give it an unrivalled sensuality. Wines such as the Paleo Rosso from Le Macchiole prove that Italian Cabernet Franc can compete with Bordeaux greats.
The individual vineyards of Tenuta di Trinoro are particularly impressive. Three legendary parcels produce limited world-class wines: Campo di Magnacosta, Campo di Tenaglia and Campo di Camagi. Tenuta di Biserno and Castello di Bolgheri also show that Cabernet Franc is no longer a supporting actor in Italy.
The Italian Cabernet Franc movement epitomises a global trend: winemakers and connoisseurs are rediscovering underestimated grape varieties. Cabernet Franc epitomises the zeitgeist of a generation that values elegance, finesse and terroir expression over mere marketability.
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