Decanter | 95–100 Points

Domizio Cavazza had vineyards in Ovello. When he founded the first Cantine Sociale in Barbaresco in 1894, Ovello was already part of his plan – one of the oldest and most original vineyards in this appellation. Today, with over twenty hectares, Ovello is by far the largest of the nine Produttori del Barbaresco sites and is located at the northernmost point of the municipal area, where the hill has various exposures – west-south-west and east-south-east – on a soil that is both calcareous and rich in clay. The clay is more present here than elsewhere in Barbaresco, and it gives the wine its typical opulence: plump fruit, full body, firm tannins. The Produttori del Barbaresco also vinify Ovello according to the same principle that has been maintained for decades: 28 days of maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian barrels, a further year in the bottle. The Riserve are bottled exclusively in exceptional vintages – and 2021 leaves no doubt about that.

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

In 1978, the first bottle of Brunello from Casanova di Neri found its way onto the market – then still called "Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello", five years after the first harvest. Giovanni Neri had found his dream and his son Giacomo began to realise it. The white label was there from the very beginning – and still is today. The Brunello White Label comes from specially designated vineyards around Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino – the same vineyards from which the estate has been making its Brunello for over four decades. After a cool, slow spring, 2021 brought a balancing, dry summer and even ripening into September.

As the Tuscan sun rises over the San Lorenzo Valley, it casts its golden light on the eighteen-year-old Pianigiani and Ricucci villas – the historic walls that gave this extraordinary Gran Selezione its name. It is a moment of silence before the story of a wine begins, which carries the quintessence of four legendary vineyards: Bellavista, Casuccia, San Lorenzo and Montebuoni. The 2021 vintage was a gift from nature to the winemakers of Chianti Classico. A rainy spring, which gave the vines the moisture they needed, was followed by a warm but not scorching summer. These climatic conditions gave the grapes a fullness and fleshiness that would later reveal itself in the glass as velvety opulence. Marco Pallanti, the driving force behind Castello di Ama since 1982 and former president of the Chianti Classico consortium, immediately recognised the extraordinary potential of this vintage.

The Spuntali vineyard is historically known as the best area of the south-west, sea-facing slope of Montalcino. Spuntali is a historic cru for Brunello di Montalcino: it is its unique terroir, it is also the sunniest and driest of the three slopes of Brunello, and the sea, just 40 kilometres away, already provides a Mediterranean climate here.

Rampante lies high up on the northern slope of Mount Etna, at an altitude of around 1,000 metres – one of the coolest sites in Passopisciaro's portfolio. The vines grow on young, porous lava rock, which is rich in minerals and gives the wine a striking verticality and salinity. Nerello Mascalese shows its most delicate, tautest expression here. The vinification follows the usual house style: spontaneous fermentation, long maceration and approx. 18 months maturation in large, used wooden barrels.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Maestro di Cava is a Bolgheri Rosso Superiore and a great example of Cabernet Franc, an expression of the volcanic soils and ageing in large barrels. Intense ruby red colour. The nose is clean, elegant and typical of the variety, characterised by a very intense bouquet of aromas with hints of red fruit, tobacco and leather. The palate is savoury, with great freshness. Excellent tannins, natural and perfectly integrated with the body of the wine. Persistent finish with mineral notes. SUPERIORE.DE

Contrada Guardiola is one of the most iconic vineyards on the northern slope of Mount Etna. A high-altitude plot between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, where the extreme microclimate, the old bush vines and the ash, lava and pumice soils allow for an expression that is as raw as it is fascinating. The vines are deeply rooted in the porous rock and produce small-berried Nerello Mascalese grapes with an impressive aromatic concentration. The 2022 vintage was characterised by a dry spring and moderate temperatures in summer, with a late harvest that brought structure and freshness into balance. The wine is aged for 18 months in large, neutral barrels.

Bombolieri lies very high on a limestone plateau to the north of Vittoria. It is where the sand flattens out and the white stones of the Iblei rise to the surface. Arianna Occhipinti has always been fascinated by this barren, light-coloured landscape, blown by the wind. Her plot of land in Contrada Bombolieri is located exactly where three geological zones meet – a place of tension, depth and unique character. And from this location comes a Frappato that speaks uncompromisingly of its origins. Fermented spontaneously, around 30 days on the skins. Maturation takes place for 22 months in cement tanks – a conscious decision in favour of purity, texture and authenticity. Like all wines in this range, the BB remains unfiltered and unfined.

You have to earn the nickname. They call Montestefano the "Barolo of Barbaresco" – and anyone who has had a good vintage in their hands will understand why. The site is just a few metres away from Montefico, shares its southern exposure and the calcareous subsoil, but clearly towers above it in terms of steepness. Excellent drainage, late harvest, a warmer microclimate thanks to the protection from northerly winds: these are the conditions under which the Nebbiolo develops maximum ripeness here – almost smoky darkness, full power. The Produttori del Barbaresco have been vinifying Montestefano as a single vineyard since 1974; the craft has remained unchanged for decades: 28 days of maceration at 30 degrees, then at least thirty months in large Slavonian wooden barrels.

Chardonnay Cuvée Bois - a white celebrated year after year with an elegant bouquet of citrus fruit, butter and vanilla. The flavour is captivating with good acidity and minerality. SUPERIORE.DE

An elegant, complex and supple Barbaresco. Shy in its youth, it develops its intense personality over the years.

The name says it all – and rarely has a wine deserved its name so consistently. Quartz: a mineral that was formed in fire, has survived for millions of years and is still visible today in Terlan's soils as a fine speckle in the volcanic porphyry rock. 55 to 60 per cent quartz content, slightly acidic pH value, skeleton-rich sandy-loamy structure without carbonate – a soil that allows water to pass through, rations nutrients and puts the vine under controlled stress. This micro-stress is not a deficiency. It is intentional. It forces the plant to produce terroir-specific polyphenols, which give the wine the savoury tension for which Terlan is internationally renowned.

The grapes for one of the most elegant and ethereal Vin Santo in Chianti Classico are dried before they are pressed and then sealed in barrels for nine years. Paolo de Marchi calls it "lazy winemaking" and admits: "The blending process is actually the most challenging part, as every barrel is different and after tasting 10 barrels, palate fatigue sets in". The result is a very elegant and pure Vin Santo that has beguiling notes of candied fruit, honey and sweet spices. The balance between sweetness and acidity keeps the wine light, lively and refreshing, and it has a smoky edge on the finish. This is a great Vin Santo, and although it has more than 200g/litre of residual sugar, it is surprisingly light, refreshing and easy to drink. SUPERIORE.DE

No other point in the Barbaresco geography is as geologically charged as Rabajà. Where the two ridges of the village meet – one sloping westwards towards the Tanaro, with loose, calcareous soil; the other facing north, with compact, calcareous subsoil –lies the vineyard. The secret of its complexity lies in the intersection of the soils: Rabajà combines what is otherwise separate. The south-westerly exposure provides warmth; the limestone gives tension. The result is a wine that does not play off elegance and power, but rather blends them together. The Produttori del Barbaresco first bottled Rabajà in 1970 – the entire production was purchased by Ristorante Guido in Costigliole d'Asti, a silent sign that this wine would become more than just an insider tip right from the start. Vinification: 28 days on the skins, thirty months or more in wooden barrels, one year in the bottle.

From the oldest Merlot parcel in the Le Sondraie vineyards comes Bell'Aja's flagship wine – a wine that impressively demonstrates the ambition of the San Felice project in Bolgheri. Since 2016, this Tenuta has completed the Tuscan wine interpretation of the historic group: from the hills of Chianti Classico to the prestigious vineyards of Montalcino to this radiant jewel on the Etruscan Coast. Bell'Aja Superiore embodies the pure essence of a unique terroir: 95% Merlot from the Tenuta's most venerable vines is combined with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon to create a wine of impressive power and opulence. The sandy-loamy soils of the Le Sondraie zone, just five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, give this Bordeaux-inspired blend the maritime minerality that makes Bolgheri one of the most fascinating terroirs in the wine world.

"The Löwengang Chardonnay is an expression of classic refinement: An elegant, fine wine with good complexity, great structure and a pronounced body, whose origin characterises its character. When the Chardonnay came onto the market and a suitable name was sought, it was clear that the Margreid vineyard should take centre stage. It was the perfect opportunity to revive the name Löwengang and give the newly created, high-quality wines this name." Alois Lageder

There are locations that you know without ever having visited them. Asili is one of them – a gentle hollow to the south-west of the village of Barbaresco, protected from the Tanaro by the ridge, warmer during the day than the neighbouring vineyards, quieter, more concentrated. Marl and limestone alternate in layers, the vines are deeply rooted and the result is less impression than personality. The Produttori del Barbaresco have been vinifying Asili separately since 1967 – as one of the first five sites to be bottled individually by the co-operative. The process is the same as for all nine crus: maceration for 28 days at 30 degrees, followed by at least thirty months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels with a capacity of 25 to 50 hectolitres, and finally a further year in the bottle. No secret – but a craft that requires exceptional patience. 2021 gives the Asili a special depth. The frost in April decimated the harvest, the remaining grapes grew in concentration during a long, temperate season; the harvest only began after 8 October – almost like in the old days.

Between Montestefano and Ovello lies Montefico – has always been recognised by connoisseurs as the most precise, intellectual wine in the Produttori range. The site opens up to the south and south-east, sharing the limestone-rich subsoil with its mighty neighbour Montestefano, but is at the same time exposed to occasional northerly winds that blow through the narrow valley between Barbaresco and Neive, refreshing the mornings even in hot summers. This gives the Nebbiolo here a characteristic coolness that it wears with dignity. The Produttori del Barbaresco vinify Montefico according to the same logic as all of their other nine crus: 28 days of maceration, then thirty months or more in large Slavonian oak barrels – without haste, without compromise. The April frost of 2021 reduced the harvest to the essentials; the grapes ripened slowly and completely, and the harvest only took place after 8 October – under almost perfect conditions.

Contrada Feudo is located on the northern slope of Mount Etna at an altitude of around 650 metres, where the vines are rooted in volcanically mixed, sandy and stony soils. Some of the plots with Nerello Mascalese are over 70 years old and deliver concentrated but cool fruit year after year. 2021 was a classic vintage on Etna with a pronounced balance: not too hot, not too humid – ideal conditions for a precise style. The wine is aged for around 16 months in used tonneaux, which emphasises the characteristics of the vineyard and refines the tannin structure.

Deep, dark yellow colour. Rich, almost opulent impressions of candied apricots, orange zest and traces of fine yellow flowers on the nose. Fabulously viscous texture on the palate, multi-layered, very concentrated flavour of candied fruit with a wonderfully polished sweetness. One of Italy's greatest Vin Santo with a long, persistent finish and made to last. SUPERIORE.DE

Sauvignon Sanct Valentin is probably the best-known white wine from the St. Michael-Eppan winery. It has been vinified from carefully selected single vineyards at the foot of the Mendelstock since 1989. Yellow-green in colour, dense bouquet of yellow fruit, gooseberry, elderflower and ripe redcurrant, smooth on the palate with elegant, floral richness and crisp acidity. A great and very savoury top wine and probably the most award-winning white from the internationally highly respected winegrowers' cooperative. SUPERIORE.DE