Barolo

Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino are from Dogliani. The fact that these brothers, who have made a name for themselves as Dolcetto producers, also produce a Barolo of such depth and precision is no contradiction – it is the same approach, applied to a different terroir. The Corsini vineyard in the Bussia MGA, Monforte d’Alba: south-west facing, calcareous-clay soil with brownish marl, Guyot training, 5,000 vines per hectare. At 340 hectares, Bussia is the second-largest MGA in the Barolo region – and was historically the first single vineyard to ever be bottled as such. Despite its size, its soils are remarkably homogeneous, and its character unmistakable: dense depth that unfolds into great complexity over time.

Briccolina is one of the smallest but most prestigious vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba. The steep slopes and the limestone and clay-rich marl soil give the wines from this parcel a striking, almost architectural structure. The south-east exposure ensures even sunshine and slow ripening, giving the flavours depth and precision. Dense, bright garnet red in colour with ruby reflections. The bouquet is multi-layered: ripe sour cherry, blackcurrant, dried roses, with hints of graphite, liquorice, fine leather and a touch of undergrowth. Powerful on the palate, with pithy, ripe tannins and clear, supporting acidity. The fruit is concentrated but not heavy, embedded in a subtle spiciness and mineral vein. The finish is long, structured and characterised by persistent freshness. A Barolo of rare precision and depth that masterfully reflects the character of the tiny Briccolina vineyard in a great vintage – and has the potential to age for decades. SUPERIORE.DE

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

Barolo Le Coste di Monforte from the outstanding 2019 vintage is utterly captivating in the glass. Rose petals, cedarwood, mint, sweet pipe tobacco and blood orange are the first aromas to emerge. On the palate, it is deep and complex, and exceptionally beautiful and harmonious for a young Barolo. Time in the glass brings out its countless nuances. SUPERIORE.DE

The latest addition to Vajra's Barolo line-up comes from a 1.5-hectare plot in Coste di Rose, a small MGA (Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive) in the Barolo region. This is a steep slope at 310 metres above sea level with a high proportion of sandy soils with good drainage, whose vines and soils are cultivated close to nature. This very accessible Barolo is straightforward, forward and impresses even at a young age with its refreshing candour. A very precise bouquet of cherry, plum, liquorice, spices and menthol, followed by a broad and multi-layered fruity palate with plenty of juice and power, supportive tannins and a full, long, mineral and minty finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Grinzane Cavour, 240 metres above sea level. One of the few parcels in the entire denomination with a full southern exposure. The single vineyard Garretti epitomises the extraordinary harmony that once attracted Giorgio Rivetti when he decided to expand into the Barolo region in 2001. Here, where seventy-year-old Nebbiolo vines are rooted in alluvial soils with a calcareous clay layer, wines of remarkable balance are produced. The site benefits from exceptional ventilation due to its distance from the hill opposite – a microclimatic advantage that ensures exceptional temperature fluctuations and preserves freshness even in the hottest years.

On the northern edge of the Barolo zone, where Verduno towers over the Langhe hills like an outpost of elegance, lies one of the most mysterious MGAs in the entire denomination. Pisapola – a name familiar only to the initiated, but for those who know it, it holds the promise of exceptional finesse. Here, on calcareous clay and sandstone soils between 250 and 300 metres above sea level, Matteo Ascheri creates a Barolo that expresses the unique personality of Verduno in its purest form. Verduno is different from the other Barolo communes. While Serralunga stands for power and Castiglione Falletto for structure, Verduno is a refuge of elegance and flavour. The complex soil composition of limestone-clay, silt and sandstone, criss-crossed by chalky veins, gives the wines that savoury note that makes Verduno-Baroli so unmistakable. It is no coincidence that the rare Pelaverga grape variety, famous for its white pepper flavours, also thrives here – a clear sign of the aromatic intensity that these soils produce.

Ceretto's 2019 Barolo combines the power of the vintage with the subtle signature of the house. The grapes come from various organically farmed cru sites in La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba – a composition that emphasises diversity and balance. On the nose, a precise, deep bouquet of dark cherry, ripe raspberry, dried rose and subtle hints of tobacco, liquorice and spicy undergrowth.

Barolo Paesi Tuoi is more than just a designation of origin. The name – borrowed from the novel "Among Peasants" by Cesare Pavese – evokes Piedmont not just as a landscape, but as a cultural space: rural, archaic, full of inner tensions. And so this Barolo is not an expression of a single cru, but a synthesis of the villages, hills and soils that together form the essence of this appellation. The grapes come from different, characterful vineyards around Barolo, Monforte and Serralunga, carefully selected and vinified separately. Long maceration periods, followed by around two years of ageing in traditional, large oak barrels – the result is a classic style with depth.

The grapes for the estate's classic Barolo come from the vineyards/communes of Ornato, La Serra, Briccolina in Serralunga d'Alba, Gustava and Garretti in Grinzane Cavour, Roncaglie in La Morra, Ravera in Novello and, from the 2015 vintage, also from Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba. It is more of a traditional, classic Barolo with an exciting bouquet of deep, dark fruit and a pretty potpourri of rose petals, spices, smoke and tar. It is full-bodied and firm on the palate, opening up with plenty of dense tannins, very powerful, with pressure and a full bite on the finish, designed for a long life. SUPERIORE.DE

Altare's Barolo is a Barolo of the four cardinal directions. Not geographically, but in terms of character: from La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba and the municipality of Barolo, a wine emerges that does not let any single vineyard site take centre stage, but rather lets them all speak at once. A map of the entire appellation in 10,000 bottles. What gives each vintage a different character is the climate. 2022 was hot, dry and concentrated in the Langhe – a year that Parker ranked among the most extraordinary of the last decade. The vines were under stress; the grapes ripened early and fully; and the extraction from 4 to 5 days in rotary fermenters yielded denser fruit and softer tannins than in a cooler year. Twenty-four months in used French barriques gave the wine structure and complexity without overshadowing the warmth of the vintage.

Enrico Serafino's classic opens in a medium-dark colour with fragrant aromas of dark fruits, plums, spices, iron ore and freshly ploughed earth. Medium-bodied on the palate, rather slender, which is not a flaw, but emphasises the elegance and class of the Nebbiolo grape very nicely. The tannins are present but pleasantly tame, with peppery nuances on the finish, a salty mineral aftertaste and delicate nougat on the final. SUPERIORE.DE

Serralunga sits enthroned on its hill like a medieval fortress – and its wines taste exactly the same. Of all eleven Barolo communes, this one is the most uncompromising: here, where the oldest soils in the region lie, grey marl and sandstone from the Serravallian twelve million years ago, the Nebbiolo has to fight for every drop of water. The roots dig deep into the cement-like rock, interspersed with limestone and iron oxide. The result is wines of monumental structure – austere, long-lasting, legendary. Enrico Serafino has been cultivating his own vineyards here, an investment by the Krause Gentile family since 2015. Vinification is an act of precision: hand-picking is followed by sorting on the vibrating table, cooling with carbonic acid snow and cold maceration before fermentation. The must remains on the skins for a full 28 days – with délestage and a submerged cap, Serralunga is extracted for what it has to give. The wine is aged for a total of 28 months, first in tonneaux and then in larger oak barrels.

The grapes come from family-owned plots in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte and Mosconi. Each vineyard is harvested separately by hand and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration times with gentle remontages ensure a fine, complete extraction. For ageing, the winery predominantly uses large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), supplemented by a smaller proportion of French oak, which adds lustre to the texture without masking the origin. Thanks to a stable summer and cool nights in autumn, 2020 produced ripe, healthy harvestwith a clear acidity line and precise aromas.

It goes without saying, but this is "only" the Altare family's entry-level Barolo from four different vineyards, enhanced this year by the best grapes from Cerretta Vigna Bricco, which was not produced in 2020. Racy and supple, with terrificpurity and fine balance, the 2020 is downright galactic. Red berries, flowers, mint, liquorice and rose petals on the nose. A highly linear personality on the palate with flavours of sour cherry, aniseed, crushed rock and blue flowers. A captivating Barolo as it is written in the book and for us one of the greatest of the vintage! SUPERIORE.DE

A Barolo from a great vintage: the 2021 wine year brought a long growing season with clear day-night amplitudes and precise harvest: fully ripe phenolics, bright acidity, impeccable health. The grapes come from family-owned plots in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Monforte and Mosconi. Each vineyard is fermented separately in stainless steel; prolonged maceration with gentle extraction, followed by unhurried malolactic fermentation. For the ageing process, the winery primarily uses large Slavonian oak barrels (botti), discreetly supplemented by French oak.

Cerretta is one of the most prestigious crus of Serralunga d'Alba – a site that Giovanni Rosso has always cultivated with particular dedication. Here, at an altitude of around 350 metres, barren, chalky marl soils meet south and south-east exposure. The result is Barolo with impressive depth, carried by a striking minerality that is recognisable even at a young age. The 2020 vintage brought harmonious ripeness and perfect phenolic development. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were gently pressed and fermented in concrete tanks for around 25 days. The wine was then matured for a good two years in large oak barrels, which emphasise the character of the vineyard without over-moulding it.

When Elio Altare returned from Burgundy in the 1970s, he brought with him a conviction that nobody in Piedmont shared at the time: that Nebbiolo need not achieve greatness through age and ‘tannic mass’, but rather through elegance and precision. He shortened the maceration periods, introduced used barriques and pursued the ideal of a Barolo that is accessible without losing its soul. His dispute with his father over this has become legendary. That conviction has endured. Altareentry-level Barolo is the most complete expression of this conviction: no single cru, no selection from a single vineyard, but a blend from the appellation’s four major municipalities. La Morra brings aromatics and silkiness. Castiglione Falletto brings body. Serralunga d’Alba brings mineral rigour. The municipality of Barolo itself brings balance. 10,000 bottles from vines aged between 20 and 30 years, predominantly facing south to south-east.

Serralunga d'Alba is not a place for compromises. The soil here – calcareous marl soils, millions of years old, compacted and rich in minerals – forms Barolos with a structure and depth that simply cannot be found elsewhere. The MGA Cerretta is located on the south-eastern slope of the municipal area, at an altitude of 350 to 365 metres, in the zone that winegrowers and critics have appreciated for generations for its extraordinary combination of power and finesse. The Rosso family has been cultivating these vineyards since the 1890s – first Giovanni, then his son Davide, who took over responsibility in 2001 at the age of 27 and since then has made a single sentence the guiding principle of his work: Wine should be a perfect reflection of its terroir.

G.D. Vajra's Ravera (whose vineyard extends over the municipalities of Novello and Barolo) is always the most angular, powerful and vertical of their collection. It comes from soils with clay and sandstone at 320 to 340 metres above sea level. This is the ideal place for wines that show both power and elegance. The tannins are sweet, but every fibre of the backbone is dense and firm. Red and purple fruits with liquorice, tar and white truffle are neatly packaged here and only reveal themselves gradually, but then with beautiful precision and straightforwardness. The final has a wonderfully long aftertaste, superb! SUPERIORE.DE

From the beginning, Pio Cesare produced limited quantities of Barolo Chinato and Vermouth, precisely according to a family recipe handed down by his grandfather. In the early 1950s, however, production was discontinued as tastes and preferences changed.